Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Honda Accord (1994-1997) Maintenance and Repair

1202123252637

Comments

  • corkscrewcorkscrew Member Posts: 254
    There was a recall for the ignition switch dated 5/13/2002 that involved one million sedans, coupes as well as other vehicles. Sorry if the original link comes up as a server error.
    Corkscrew
  • shawtyjloshawtyjlo Member Posts: 5
    thanks for the input. i called the honda dealership and and honda corporation and my car isnt included in that recall. i thought it was though. they told me it would cost $48 dollars to diagnose it but it wouldnt be until Friday. and then it would probably be 3 days to get parts in if any are needed. i think i have two problems going on. #1 my abs is going out like you'll said and #2 my toggle switch is causing my lights and radio to go haywire. i was driving down the road yesterday and my speedometer went all the way to 0 and back to 45 like it had lost power but my car stayed running. my car is haunted!
  • mamamia2mamamia2 Member Posts: 707
    What you describe sounds like your ABS pump is going out. That is pretty common in Accords/Acuras. Mine went out long before 100k but I never replaced it because the dealer wanted $1600.

    -- Nice to pop in from time to time, me who is already 2 years out of owning my beloved '95 V6 Accord.... That was one HELL of a car....

    If there was ONE bad issue with that Accord, it was the ABS pump... I replaced the first one at about 60k, by the dealership, for about $1,200, only to have it go kaput 2 years later....

    You might get away with FILLING UP THE RESERVOIR WITH BRAKE FLUID, very little amount needed..... Fill it up slowly --- and let the engine run for a while WITH THE CAP OFF! so that air bubbles will come out. You might need to top it up again.

    Otherwise, shop around among used-parts dealers.... You can find a rebuilt ABS pump/module (which I believe the dealers are using too...) for less than $250. Have your local mechanic instal it for another $200 or less. Still a big saving, I'd say.
  • duster219duster219 Member Posts: 1
    Hi all. I have a 97 Accord SE. Within the past couple of days the alarm has freaked out on me and will start going off at random times. Anyone else have issues with this? The horn going off at 2:00 am is not really fun. Any help is appreciated!
  • mamamia2mamamia2 Member Posts: 707
    Maybe you can adjust the alarm's sensitivity? Are you parked in a garage, or outside? Could be a heavy enough animal jumping on your car, like a SKUNK?
  • bluetoothninjabluetoothninja Member Posts: 1
    Check your battery. My alarm was going off by itself and it turned out that the battery was dying.
  • dano2008dano2008 Member Posts: 8
    97 Honda Accord 2.2 4 cyl

    Can someone please tell me where the cigarette lighter fuse is or if there even is one. It doesn't work but everything else does. I'm thinking it's a fuse but nothing is listed on the fuse box int he car.
  • dano2008dano2008 Member Posts: 8
    97 Accord 2.2 l 4cyl

    I was wondering how easy it is to remove the rear bumper and to put back on ?
  • sfranzosfranzo Member Posts: 6
    Under the hood you will find the fuse box. Number 19 is the cigarette lighter fuse.
  • dano2008dano2008 Member Posts: 8
    Thank you so much sfranzo.
  • omarromarr Member Posts: 88
    Get Honda Shop Manual 94 will work. PDF file

    http://hondatech.info/downloads/Auto/Manuals/Accord/">
  • holycrappitsjoholycrappitsjo Member Posts: 2
    How do you adjust the sensitivity?
    I have a 2002 Accord SE, and the alarm's been going off ALL THE TIME.
    Granted, it keeps people from screwing with it, haha. But it's not very fun running down three flights of stairs ten or so times a night to shut it off.
    And I have street parking, so no way am I just leaving it unlocked.
  • chamilton_06chamilton_06 Member Posts: 4
    I'm in the market for a 08 Nissan Altima 2.5s. I currently have a 95 Honda Accord 2.7 V6 with 150k miles recently broke down. The mechanic "says" the camshaft and crankshaft sensors went bad and the job would cost about $750 to fix. Besides this issue, the car had a strong engine (great acceleration) and was in fair to good condition aside from having only one working power window (electrical problem), broken odometer, broken fuel gauge and small oil leaks which one could consider cosmetic. KBB value for Private Party is $2,985 in fair condition and $1,515 Trade-In value. My question, should I spend the money to fix the car and use it as a trade in for the Altima or scrap the car and cut my losses. I'm worried that a private seller wouldn't buy the car because of those forementioned issues.
  • tvsethitvsethi Member Posts: 1
    ok trying to save some money here is a few tips for the rear windows i would personally pull the door panels of on one side front and rear and remove the regulator with motor, its definatley not a hard thing to do AT ALL dont let anyone tell you otherwise, but remove the rear and test to see if the regulators actually work by pluging the wire from the front into this regulator and pushing up and down DO NOT REMOVE ANYTHING fROm the front just the cover and unplug the wire from the regulator, if they work then it possibly is an issue with the wiring test that and ill look for spots to test wiring in the mean time, second the anntena you can find at any junk yard for like 5 bucks, 4th if everything else on the cluster works fine it could be an issue with the speed sensor or cable you can most likely get a sensor for 20 bucks at the part store but dont hold me to that, if you have any other questions let me know i am in a rush sorry for the sloppiness
  • omarromarr Member Posts: 88
    It ain't the VSS It ain't It ain't It ain't.

    If you have Cruise Contreol and it works, that tells you VSS is good.
    You would most likly get a check enige ligth with a bad VSS.

    It is your Speedometer Head.

    I have told you that I have been there with the Speedometer Problem

    There is NO speedometer cable
  • pkim3pkim3 Member Posts: 1
    duster219, did you fix your alarm problem? Did you change you battery and did it make your problem go away?
    I am having same problem for more than a year. I don't lock my doors any more. (Thank God, I live in safe neighborhood) However, I left my car locked at the airport once for 3 days and of course it drained my battery.

    Anyway, will you let me know if bluetoothninja's solution worked. (new battery)

    Thanks!
  • koolaidman23koolaidman23 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 95 Accord LX with the 2.2l and 4 wheel disc brakes. Over the last month or so, I have noticed a shudder when braking. The steering wheel shudders, and it seems like I have to push on the brakes a bit more to get stopped. For a bit of history here, I just replaced rotors and pads on all four wheels last october, had a new wheel bearing put in the right front, and a new right front cv assembly in February. The cv boot on the drivers side front is cracked, I know about it and am having the entire assembly replaced next friday. What I would like to know is, is it possible that the axle shaft or cv joint could be causing the shudder? The drivers side front wheel "feels" loose to me, almost imperceptibly so, but nevertheless so. Is this a possible cause? Please let me know what you think, thanks.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Hey folks - haven't been around here in awhile (haven't needed to be). Just thought I'd share an update.

    I've now got 180k miles on my car and my driver's side front suspension is making a tapping/knocking/rattling noise when I hit bumps; not necessarily when turning. It's pretty obvious to me on the interstate, or any rough road for that matter. It's not that loud, but something has obviously gone south - I suspect the CV Boot/Joint. I'm getting an estimate from my local mechanic tomorrow. If it is in fact the CV Joint:

    1.) Should I go ahead and replace them both?
    2.) How much should I expect to pay for 1? 2?

    I'm not upset about having to get this done; 180k seems like really good life out of them. My grandparents just replaced them on their '97 Civic at 110k.

    Thanks!

    TheGrad
  • tallman1tallman1 Member Posts: 1,874
    It may also be a tie rod problem, grad.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Thanks... I'm interested in hearing everything it COULD be and everything it probably ISN'T, so I'll be a little more prepared tomorrow.

    Would something like this get me stranded? I actually drove the car today since it hadn't been driven in 4 days; I try to drive it regularly to keep the seals tight.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    CV joints usually make more noise while turning. A rattling sound while going straight sounds more like loose suspension components. It could be the ball joints or a bushing going bad. They will probably make plenty of noise, sometimes for years, before something actually breaks. If you were to jack the wheel up, and shake the wheel, it could give you a hint. If you turn the wheel by hand, and hear a grinding noise, that would be the wheel bearing. I hope it's something minor, grad. Good luck

    If it were to be the cv joint boot, you may as well have the whole thing changed (joint and boot). The labor would be about the same either way.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    CV joints usually make more noise while turning. A rattling sound while going straight sounds more like loose suspension components.

    I thought that about the CV joints too - usually noticeable when turning. It really sounds like there's a loose screw up front!
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    As it turns out, my "outside drive axle" is busted on my driver's side front wheel. My mechanic told me it should be doable for under $300 including labor and parts. I thought this sounded reasonable.

    Thoughts?
  • crazy_britcrazy_brit Member Posts: 3
    Hi all
    I hope you can help me. i have a 96 Accord and i was driving along fine when i looked down at my speedo and it was going up and down from 40 to 20 mph then it evened out. Went to a friends house come out and it starts doing it again and then engine was slightly hesitating not much but i could feel it then it evened out again. Went shopping then i was driving and the speed went to 0 even though i was moving and then up and down, then the check engine light came on. Any ideas what the problem is?
    Crazy Brit
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    You may have a VSS (vehicle speed sensor) issue. This link is for 4th gen Accords (90-93), but your car may be very similar. Does your cruise control work? Read this, and see if it fits your symptoms. Good luck
    http://techauto.awardspace.com/vss.html
  • crazy_britcrazy_brit Member Posts: 3
    not checked the cruise control but I am taking the car to a mechanic tomorrow will be ok to drive do you think it is about 40 mins from my house?
    thanks for your help
    Crazy Brit
  • mamamia2mamamia2 Member Posts: 707
    Hey, elroy, this IS the right forum.... 94-97 Accord...

    Hey, crazy_brit, not to worry about driving the car, but yes, your problem is the speed sensor, which is attached to the Distributor.... They're gonna probably replace the Distributor cap also.

    NOW: If you have less than 150,000 miles on the odometer, please check with your area Honda dealer. You will probably be able to fix this UNDER A SPECIAL EXTENDED WARRANTY from Honda, that's good for up to 14 years (your '96 car is now 12 years old) or up to 150,000 miles..... There is a lot of info here, a special service bulletin # 98-081 that's been discussed here extensively.... Do a search...

    ...I had the exact same thing years ago when I still owned this beloved car (it was a '95 V6), took it to my local guy to be fixed, before I was aware of this SB and when I was made aware of it, I called Honda and was reimbursed for the full amout which was around $550.-......

    Hope I helped a little here.....
  • crazy_britcrazy_brit Member Posts: 3
    thank you so much for your help, you have put my mind at rest and i can go to the mechanic with some knowledge under my belt!!! So i sound like a woman who knows a bit about cars lol
    Crazy Brit
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    mamamia2 "Hey, elroy, this IS the right forum.... 94-97 Accord... "

    I know it's the right forum, I was talking about the link I provided being for 4th gens. ;)

    That's some great information though. :D Hard to believe they extended the warranty that far.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Hello? Is this thing on? :shades:
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    I'd say $300 is a good price for changing the CV joints. But then, I have no experience in that particular area. Never changed one, or had one changed (knocks on wood). :shades:
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Well, since it wasn't CV joints I have no idea what I should be paying, but that doesn't seem like THAT much. :)
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    I thought when you changed one, you changed both, because they come as one part. Maybe I'm wrong. :confuse:
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Each half shaft (one on each side of the vehicle), has two CV joints each. You don't technically have to replace both right and left side half shafts in only one goes bad.

    However, since they are both going thru the same mileage and turns, if one is failing the other side is usually not far behind. On a number of vehicles when you replace the half shaft, you end up taking a ball joint apart and have to align the vehicle when finished. So generally if I have one CV joint go bad (usually the outer CV joint on the half shaft because that's where the maximum turning occurs), I just replace both half shafts and get it aligned. Then you're not back in with additional problems later.
  • tomk17tomk17 Member Posts: 135
    I'm looking a 98 Accord EX (4 cyl) for my new driver daughter. I've had several Honda's including a 98 Odyssey and a 04 CRV. Both great cars with no problems. This Accord is an adult 1 owner car, great shape, and very well maintained with fresh tune-up. It does however have 175K miles. I will check the service records but the timing belt / water pump were obviously done and most likely many other items. I would be buying it thru a reputable wholesaler who I've worked with in the past - he knows the owner.

    I'm sure there are some high mileage owners here and I'd appreciate any input on what I should expect from this car. It only needs to last another 18 mths and another 15-20K miles. Price will be $4000
  • tallman1tallman1 Member Posts: 1,874
    This is a thread for 94-97 owners so you may want to check with the next generation thread. However, as an owner of a 95 EX I4 manual with over 220k miles, I'm pleased. I bought a new one in 06 and my son now drives my 95. If the car is properly maintained, you should have no problem making it last much longer.
  • ctowncrackactowncracka Member Posts: 1
    I have a 94 accord that is doing the same thing. Here's where it gets fuzzy though. I put a new engine in my car that only has about 70K on it. Do you think that would still be covered by this extended warranty?
  • shawtyjloshawtyjlo Member Posts: 5
    I have a 97 Accord EX with 246,000 miles on it. I love my car. It sounds like a good car. They really hold their value. For example, last September a deer ran into the side of my car. It was only two dents the size of maybe a football and since they had to remove the quarters, the insurance company totaled my car. I received a check for about $4300 and bought the car back for $100. I think it would be a good investment. My 86 Accord has 483,000 miles on it and still runs good. Good luck.You can go to carfax or the honda website to look up recalls.
  • yankeey2gyankeey2g Member Posts: 5
    All:

    I'm looking for a 97 Accord repair/service manual. I have a 97 LX 4-non-vtech

    I want to start learning and doing some work on the car myself so I figure it will be best to get hold of the service manual.

    Thanks for any info you can provide.

    Damian
  • lastwraithlastwraith Member Posts: 350
    Helm Inc. has the best stuff you can get for doing your own work....reprinted service manuals.
  • omarromarr Member Posts: 88
    :) ">link titleSave yourself some money.
    Look at http://hondatech.info/downloads/Auto/Manuals/Accord/
  • drzoltardrzoltar Member Posts: 6
    This exact same thing happened to me a month ago. Finding a step by step solution on-line has been difficult. I talked to the parts manager at my local Honda dealership, but he didn't know what to do.

    I have checked the links that others have posted with the layout of how to get to the cigarette lighter. But are there any step-by-step instructions on how to actually replace it? Like a previous poster stated, there doesn't seem to be any screws or anything to hold the lighter in place. And I'd hate to disconnect it in the wrong place only to mess up the wiring.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Hey guys, just thought I'd check in.

    I'm having several things done to my car.

    1.) New Timing Belt, Water Pump, and Antifreeze - $427 with labor
    2.) New left front drive axle (the old one is busted and knocking) - $300 with labor
    3.) New Valve Gasket Cover (the old one was leaking slowly, and hard as a rock, supposed to be flexible)- $35, no labor charge
    4.) New Balance Shaft Belt (the old one was stretched and off one tooth) - $15, no labor charge and the price for the part is cost

    $792.00 for the above. Thoughts, comments?

    TheGraduate
    1996 Accord LX 2.2, 4-speed automatic, 180,000 miles
  • lastwraithlastwraith Member Posts: 350
    Nice link omarr! Weird how they divided the '91 svc manual into MANY separate pdfs but you can't beat the price ;)
  • tallman1tallman1 Member Posts: 1,874
    $792.00 for the above. Thoughts, comments?

    Considering that many places charge at least that for just the timing belt/water pump, I'd say that is a good deal. I'm sure the place is also reputable and does good work. ;)
  • omarromarr Member Posts: 88
    Just done the same to my 1997 Accord.

    Timing belt 21.99
    Balance Shaft Belt 14.99
    Valve Cover Gasket 22.99
    Water Pump 33.99
    CV Halfshaft 59.99
    Antifreeze 11.99

    Total…165.94
    Labor = One Saturday / $626.06 /$ 78.00/hr

    :) All the way to the bank
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Shame on you, omarr ;)
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Yes, they are the same people who have done all my body-shop work for me, and did an excellent job.
  • jjzhangjjzhang Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1994 Honda accord with 149000 miles. The car randomly stalls when I am going to stop or stopped. There is no symptom before it stalls. At the first several times, I need to wait for one minute to restart it. Later on, I have to spend more time to make it restart. And the frequency of the stalling is becoming larger. I went to a mechanic one week ago. He did fully tune up, cleaned the fuel injector, checked the wires. I spent $360. But the problem still exist. There is no error code. the mechanic cannot find the problem.
    I was frustrated.
    Any one give some clue? Thanks in advance.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    You could just have a vacume leak. Try this. Get some throttle body/carb cleaner, start the engine and let it idle, spray the cleaner on every hose you can find. If the engine changes it's tune (bogs) you've found your leaking hose.
Sign In or Register to comment.