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Honda Accord (1994-1997) Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • rjduecerjduece Member Posts: 1
    1994 ex wagon will not shift unless you use key to manually release lock!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    brake interlock switch. I bet you don't have brake lights either. Go check.
  • hondatech2hondatech2 Member Posts: 6
    Hi everyone,

    I'm new to this site, and I was checking it out because I just picked up a 97 accord coupe LX. I was a honda tech from 94 to 97. I saw some one post that you needed to get an alignment after having drive axles replaced. This is not true. Breaking loose the lower ball joint will not disturb anything that has to do with your alignment. If anyone has any questions please feel free to ask. I may not be able to troubleshoot everything, but I could point you in the right direction.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Welcome to the forum. Maybe you can help a few owners, and (if you're lucky ;) ) learn a thing or two yourself.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    I just had my LF drive axle replaced. No alignment needed, like you say.
  • sogomimi1029sogomimi1029 Member Posts: 3
    Recently I've been hearing screeky sounds as I brake. ( I drive a 1997 Honda Accord four-door LX). So while I had my oil change at an auto shop, I had them check it. They told me to replace both the brake pad, bearing, and the rotor at the front. They told me its an safety issue because the pad had a crack and the rotor was worn out due to heat related impacts... I don't know anything about cars. So I went along with what they told me. The final cost was $723 including labor. After reading so many blogs, it seem that Honda makes pretty good brake systems and its rare to see their brakes to have problems. But then again, I had to look at other issues like : I live in San Francisco, and I had to park on the inclining streets where I often use my emergency brake. I don't know if the auto shop owner was telling me to change it because they wanted to make $$... or they are really doing it for my own safety concern?
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    The emergency brake usage shouldn't be a problem. Mine has been used every single time the car is parked, and it now has over 180,000 miles on it.

    I can't really comment much on the other issues though, simply because I haven't had them.

    I know it is in hindsight now, but next time you get a quote for so much $, get a second opinion. I got one quote on my timing belt for $720, not including changing the water pump (which should be done when the belt is changed, every 90k miles in this generation of Accord 4-cylinder). I got another quote for the belt, waterpump, and new antifreeze, and the total was right around $400.

    When in doubt, check it out.
  • hondatech2hondatech2 Member Posts: 6
    A couple of things to think about. You said that they replaced the front brakes. The emergency brake only uses the rear brakes, so parking on inclines has nothing to do with it. Now if you drive in a lot of stop and go traffic, this can over heat your brakes, causing cracking and glazing to the pads, that will create squeals when braking. Have you owned this car since new? If not who knows who the manufacture of the rotors or pads is. If your mechanic doesn't work at a honda dealer, most likely the parts he used aren't honda parts either. Honda states in the owner manuals that the brake pads contain metallic pieces in the pad therefore a little bit of squealing is normal. What exactly do you mean by screeky sounds?When you take a car to be repaired, always ask for the old parts back, so you can look at them yourself. Also before the repair is done ask them to take you to your car and show and explain what they are talking about. All and all I would say that it sounds a little high to me. And bearings are not a normal part of a brake job. They must have had some play in then.
  • hondatech2hondatech2 Member Posts: 6
    400 is a great price for a timing belt, water pump. The 720 is more in the ball park. It doesn't cost much in parts but it is pretty labor intensive. Its unbelievable someone would change the belt but not the water pump.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    The good part is that the people who did the $400 job have also done some great body-work on the same car in the past when I've gotten hit, so I really trusted them. I've never had to go back because of a problem with the work. I knew $600-$700 was normal, and my dealer wanted $850 for the belt/pump.
  • omarromarr Member Posts: 88
    The parts for doing the rotor/pad repair are approximately $190.00.
    Honda's 94/97 rotor design makes this a horrible task.
    The complete steering knuckle has to be removed on both sides.
    The wheel bearings are destroyed when removed from the knuckle.
    This has to be done to get the rotors off.
    This job is not for the casual home mechanic.
    You need the proper tools, which the casual home mechanic will not have.
    Brake Pads/Shoes - Front about $30.00.
    Brake Rotor x2 about $60.00.
    Wheel Bearing - Front x2 about $100.00.

    I just completed this job on my own car,
    The $723 including labor for a place of business was a fair price.
    Check it out at
    ">link titlehttp://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c1528003a46a
  • hondatech2hondatech2 Member Posts: 6
    Omarr, are you a parts man for a living? Look at your link again for replacing front rotors. It says except for 96 and 97. We are in a 94-97 discussion group. I'm pretty sure that up to 97 the front rotor is still held on by two screws. They can be difficult to get out and you may need a impact screw driver. I have even had to drill them out before, that's why you need to use anti-seize. After 97 is the rotor over hub design, which then you may want to replace the bearings. Wheel bearings are never destroyed unless they were bad in the first place, or you destroyed them taking them out. I am a heavy equipment foreman, and I work with bearings the size of your tires, bearings can be removed and races knocked out.
  • omarromarr Member Posts: 88
    The brake rotor on the 94/95/96/97 Honda Accords that I have worked on has the rotor pulled from the rear of the hub. They are held on with 4 bolts. Total dismantle of the knuckle assembly is required.
    Some models may be different, example models with rear discs.

    98 changes and the the front rotor is held on by two screws and is pulled from the front. This is simple to do.
    The AutoZone link does not always have the exact/correct illustrations.

    Step 13 of the AutoZone link says!
    On late models of the Accord and Prelude, use a hydraulic press and suitable press tools to remove the front hub/bearing assembly. For specific details, refer to the hub/bearing removal and installation procedures in this section.

    I will not put any information on this site unless I have done the job myself.
    No WAG’s from this ole boy

    Read the book for complete documentation.
    http://hondatech.info/downloads/Auto/Manuals/Accord/
  • omarromarr Member Posts: 88
    Follow up!
    The brake rotor on the 94/95/96/97 Honda Accords that I have worked on has the rotor pulled from the rear of the hub. They are held on with 4 bolts. Total dismantle of the knuckle assembly is required.
    Some models may be different, example models with rear discs.

    98 changes and the the front rotor is held on by two screws and is pulled from the front. This is simple to do.
    The AutoZone link does not always have the exact/correct illustrations.

    Step 13 of the AutoZone link says!
    On late models of the Accord and Prelude, use a hydraulic press and suitable press tools to remove the front hub/bearing assembly. For specific details, refer to the hub/bearing removal and installation procedures in this section.

    I will not put any information on this site unless I have done the job myself.
    No WAG’s from this ole boy

    Read the book for complete documentation.
    http://hondatech.info/downloads/Auto/Manuals/Accord/
  • jokerjoejokerjoe Member Posts: 1
    My accord ran hot the other day, it appeared low on coolant. I filled it up drove it for 3 days, now it is running on the hot side again. I can not see any visible leaks or cracks, dripping liquid etc. Also, at idle it just began revving up in park/neutral from around 1000rpm to close to 2000rpm. Any thoughts. Thermostat stuck? Any help is appreciated.
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    Here's the link: nmwindaddict, "Honda Accord (1998-2002) Maintenance and Repair" #1403, 17 May 2008 8:46 pm.
  • jjzhangjjzhang Member Posts: 2
    Thank you. I will try.
  • ds337ds337 Member Posts: 2
    Hello everyone, been reading the message back to last October and haven't found anything that matches the problem that I'm having. I have a 1995 Accord LX, I4, non-VTEC, automatic trans, with 200k miles.

    On a cold engine, I can hit 4k+ RPM without problems. About 15 mins after I start the engine, the check engine light turns on and the car won't go over 3k RPM. I can drive fast, slow, or drive to the gas station and turn off the engine and it's almost always 15 mins after I first start the cold engine. When I hold the gas down steady, it will oscillate between 2.75 and 3.25k RPM and if I give it more gas, it will back fire periodically while oscillating.

    Been meaning to go over to a friends to get the code but haven't been able to sync up with him. Anyone have any ideas what is going on? Am I completely hosed?

    Thanks in advance for any help... :)

    -Ds
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    AutoZone will read your Check Engine Light for free.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    When you say it won't go over 3K rpm, are you saying it won't do that while in neutral without a load on the engine, or are you saying while driving down the highway, you can't get the engine under load to ever go over 3K?
  • ds337ds337 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the Autozone tip..

    Both. After the check engine light goes on, I can't go over 3k RPM in neutral or on the road. It may be a little higher in neutral but not much more.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Get your error codes read from the computer (AutoZone, Pepboys, etc). Tell us what the error codes are, or look them up at www.actron.com
  • pj_columbiapj_columbia Member Posts: 12
    Hi,
    It's been awhile since I posted, but having a problem with the power antenna on the car. It''s making "the noise" and won't let the antenna retract or extend completely. I have taken the whole thing out and have done some research to see if I need to replace just the mast or if I need to replace the entire power assembly. I've gone to this site (http://home.earthlink.net/~michaelpkeefe/HowTo_Antenna_Mast.htm), but it's for a '94 Accord. I just can't seem to pull my mast out of the housing. It sounds like there is something that prohibits it from coming out all the way. So, do I have to replace the whole thing or is there some trick at getting the mast out? Thanks for your help!

    PJ
  • kerhondakerhonda Member Posts: 1
    96 EX V6 has intermittent cooling. Sometimes very cool & sometimes blowing hot - even on the same short trip. Seems like it is probably blowing hot more frequently than in the past. Anybody with a similar experience &/or any tips on what to check for? I'll take on something if it isn't major. Thanks.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    I had the same problem. Some times the A/C would blow cold, and sometimes not. There were also a couple of other quirks that would show up when this happened. The dash P (park) indicator would not light up at startup, and the indicator lights for A/C would not light up. Hard to believe but a weak battery was the cause. It was strong enough to start the engine, but while doing so, it would loose communication with other systems. I went to Autozone, and they tested the battery for me, and said it was bad. Changed the battery, and it hasn't happened since (more than a year ago). Good luck, and hope your's is this simple too.
  • sadomadsadomad Member Posts: 2
    My head gasket blew so i took the head to a shop and got it resurfaced. I replaced the head gasket, the intake manifold gasket, and the exhaust manifold gasket. I put it all back together (except for the coil that connects to the distributor, I have no idea how to bolt that in) but the car wont start. It turns beautifully, but wont catch. I have no idea what it could be. Does anyone have an Idea?
  • ker1ker1 Member Posts: 7
    Update on intermittent AC cooling. When working the air is cold so I'm not sure how it could be a low refrigerant cause. When blowing hot air the condensor fan is still running but the compressor is not turning. So, something is causing the compressor to not run when it should. From my research on this it seems that it could be the compressor clutch relay, the thermostat or the pressure switch. Any experience or ideas on this? Thanks.
  • ker1ker1 Member Posts: 7
    Update: I checked the refrigerant level & pressure & it is fine. One more Q&A & I should have this figured out. If my pressure switch is bad, would the condensor fan run & the compressor not run? Does the system need to be evacuated to replace the pressure switch? If the condensor fan should not be running if the compressor is not running then my next step is to replace the compressor clutch relay which has been my chief suspect all along. Appreciate any knowledgeable feedback out there. Thanks.
  • ker1ker1 Member Posts: 7
    Update: I checked the red clutch/coil lead in "failed" mode & I still had battery voltage which proves my relay is fine. I then forced the clutch against the rotating pressure plate (exciting - I recommend a thin wooden stick/pole - less sparks than metal) & lo & behold, it engaged. The gap is out of spec - not by a huge amount but it is bigger than the outside tolerance. I guess that over time the natural progression is for everything to wear & loosen to a wider gap.
    So, it seems clear I need to pull the clutch & remove some shims. I've never messed with a compressor clutch & there is precious little clearance from the end of the clutch to the inner fender - maybe 3/4". I'm not sure what I'm getting into here. I don't think there is enough clearance without pulling the compressor & then I'm not sure you could do it without evacuating the system? Can you do this with the compressor in place or must it be removed? I'm wondering if I might be better off to take it to a reliable mechanic & have them do this. I wouldn't expect there to be too much to it for them....maybe 1 hour labor or something like that? Any opinions or experience on this? Thanks again.
  • sadomadsadomad Member Posts: 2
    Is there anything I could do? I just replaced the cylinder head gasket. And when I was bolting down the ignition coil to the head, a little part chipped off the edge so it leaves a hole when I put the valve cover on. The piece that chipped off is roughly 0.5" X 2.5" in size. Is there anything that i could do to fix it without having to replace the whole head.
  • omarromarr Member Posts: 88
    Has any one had experience with the Honda Accord automatic vibrating at idle at a stop light/etc? Shifting out of gear reduces the vibration.
    The car runs good, no trouble codes, no engine misfire, in park there is no vibration.
    What was done to correct the vibration problem?
    :confuse:
    Thanks for your help.
  • shawtyjloshawtyjlo Member Posts: 5
    I also have a 97 accord. Mines is a manual but only does that when i going down the road. it has no trouble codes but i notice that my passenger seat is shaking. it runs good other than that.

    on the other hand, i have also had two 86 accords automatics and they would vibrate when i stopped also. i would shift it out of gear also. all my friends have hondas also and they speak of the same vibration. i just think its a trademark of a honda. its kind of irritating but i got 483,000 miles out of my 86 before a deer totaled it and pushing 250,000 on my 97.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    I have a 1996; it also vibrates (not TERRIBLE, but noticeable). It is worse with the A/C running. I've never considered it a problem because it has done it since I got the car 6 years ago.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    If I understand what you are saying, that a 2" chunk of metal head broke off....I suspect you'll need a new head as the valve gasket won't seal correctly, and you'll be loosing oil all over the place..
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    For the vibration issue. Check your engine mounts. To do this you need two people. Open the hood. You or your assistant can stand next to the front fender and watch the engine. Put the transmission in gear, hold the brake FIRMLY (so the car will not move), and push the accelerator (just a little). Do this in Drive, and Reverse. If there is a lot of engine movement, you have a bad engine mount. The side of the engine that rises is likely the culprit mount. Good luck.

    PS: If the engine vibrates more when the A/C or some other electrical accessory is used it could also be the ELD (electric load detector). If the engine rpm does not increase a little, when the A/C compressor kicks on, the ELD may be the problem.
  • rm328rm328 Member Posts: 2
    Just bought a 96 Accord 4cyl auto 4dr 102k miles. Just wondering about how many gallons before the gas light comes on. I filled up for the first time, the needle was just below 1/4 tank and only pumped 12.5 gallons. I got 350 miles on that much. I know the car has a 17 gallon tank, but what are some of your experiences with it? I would hate to try and run it until the light comes on because it never will and end up running out of gas. I know there is a forum for gas mileage but I wanted to direct this to 94-97 owners.

    Thanks
  • drzoltardrzoltar Member Posts: 6
    My wife actually tested this out once. The light seems to come on when there is 1-1.5 gallons left in the tank. We were travelling once during the night and I dozed off while she was driving. When I woke up I noticed the gas light was on and asked her how long it had been on for. She couldn't remember. The first gas station we came to was closed, so we had to drive another 15 miles to find one open at 3 am. So I'd say you could drive another 30 miles after the light comes on.

    I have the same exact car (year/make/model) and your mpg matches what I get. One piece of advice, start using high mileage oil in your engine. It helped mine dramatically. It still runs well after 189K miles on it.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    I have the same basic car as you ('96 2.2L 4-cyl), but with 182k miles on it. Truth be told, I have only seen the light illuminate once, and it took 15 gallons, possibly a little more, to fill it. The car runs beautifully to 5,500 RPM, and just gets regular oil changes, with regular oil, every 4,000 miles. I drive this car daily, and average 27mpg with my suburban commute; 22 in pure city mileage, and can pull 32 mpg if I keep speeds below 70mph on the highway. This is an LX, non-VTEC, 130hp automatic model.

    By that point, the gauge was pretty much at "E" though. I've noticed when my car gets much below the 1/4 line, it takes more turns to crank the car, so I've quit letting it go much below there. The light is a very last-minute type of light, however, so filling at 1/4 is a safe way to go, 1/8 if you must. Keep in mind that some sediment may be at the bottom of your tank, so if you go too far, maybe the potential for picking up that sediment increases?

    Hope this helps.
  • tallman1tallman1 Member Posts: 1,874
    Well, I finally had to replace the clutch in my 95 Accord EX at 230k miles. Considering that my son learned on it and drives it now, I don't think that is too bad. :shades:
  • shawtyjloshawtyjlo Member Posts: 5
    I have to agree with the other reply. Same thing happened to me while i was driving my 97 accord. the next gas station was like 45 minutes away but i made it.
  • rm328rm328 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for all the replies...

    I understand what you guys are saying about running it that low, I was just kinda curious on how many miles I can get on a tank. I wanted to try it but like I said before I would hate to try it and for some freakin reason my light doesnt come on. It just amazes me on the difference in mpg on my 04 Ford Supercrew 5.4 and on this honda...I fill the ford up with 20-22 gallons and get about 400-410 miles. This car on the first fill up took 12.5 gallons and I got about 350. I hope this car lasts a long time like some of the other stories Ive read on here.

    The previous owner had owned the car for 8 years and they made the switch to mobil 1 synthetic. I think mobil 1 has a synthetic high mileage, would it be a big deal to switch if I wanted to? Anything special I would have to do?

    Thanks again.
  • pj_columbiapj_columbia Member Posts: 12
    OK - turns out that the mast was S-T-U-C-K. I eventually took the whole assembly to my mechanic and even he couldn't get it out. So, I got some PBlaster, squirted the mast regularly for the next 24 hours, installed the whole assembly in the car. I still couldn't pull it out by hand, so I got a ladder and some vise grips. I stood on the ladder over the fender and finally pulled the mast out. After 13 years it had gotten wedged in real good. Am going to install the new mast over the weekend. Good luck if you decide to do this. It's irritating, but the mast really does separate from the rest of the motor assembly.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    I have a leak! I could hear sloshing when I'd make turns (we had a nice rain today), and tonight, I noticed I could see water dripping into the floorboard (a good deal of water). I'm not sure what to do? We're supposed to get more rain here in Birmingham between now and Sunday, and I park outside.

    Help!

    TheGraduate
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    Clogged moonroof drains? It's happened to me and was notta lotta fun. :mad:
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    No moonroof, but thanks for the suggestion. ;)

    Next idea? :confuse:
  • tallman1tallman1 Member Posts: 1,874
    You have drains in the doors and elsewhere that get plugged. I've never had the problem but I know others have posted that they have.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    After driving it today, I noticed it was worse when the A/C was running. My guess was A/C drain is clogged. I ran it by the dealership, and sure enough, that's what it was. I will be picking the car up in an hour, for $57. I don't know where that is, or how to clean it. They said they'd service the system, but am not sure what that meant.
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    Glad you got it figured out before it cost more than $57. This was years ago, but I had wet carpet behind the passenger seat off and on for a while and should have done something sooner about it, except I didn't know where it was coming from and I didn't have a clue as to what was about to happen. But one day I was backing down out of the driveway to go to work and a wall of water fell on my back from the back seam of the moonroof.

    Let's just say it cost me a lot more than $57 before it was all said and done. :shades:
  • erchavezerchavez Member Posts: 5
    anyone know how to unplug the AC drain? I have droplets of water coming out of my center air vent. Doesn't smell like antifreeze so I assume my drain is plugged. Not sure how to unplug it. I have a 94 accord ex
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Are you sure it isn't just condensation from turning the A/C on after being off for awhile? If you have the A/C on for say, ten minutes, are the droplets of water still on the vents?

    A plugged A/C drain would result in water coming out onto the floor board; you'd have wet floormats (my foot got wet on my way to the dealer as water dropped from the A/C system, so I turned the A/C off.
    Water wouldn't leak out the top, it'll travel down to the bottom. If water droplets are forming on the vents at the top of the dash (above the climate controls), I suspect little more than condensation, and have this happen all the time. I cycle the A/C on and off, and the humidity causes this.

    That being said, I have no idea how to clear the drain.
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