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Anyone got any ideas? I'm stumped!
I have a 96 honda accord with 180000 miles have a speedometer that goes from swinging wildly to dead.....odometer and cruise control only works when the speedometer works. Tachometer works at all times....engine seems to lurch at times as well. believe it is the vehicle speed sensor but want to be sure before i order it. when i look at auto zone or e bay it shows a small control unit or 1 with cords coming off of it....i dont understand which one i need.....also is this just off of the distributor? any help with testing, removal, and replacement would be great.....is ordering one off of e bay ok? thanks, keenan
http://techauto.awardspace.com/vss.html
Not sure how you'd check to see if it was one or the other, as my speedo jumped around (going from showing proper speed, to zero).
That's why it's important to diagnose/trouble-shoot a problem, before just guessing a part. Good point.
The speedo clusters have been known to go out too (do you know some of them were made by Ford? :surprise: )
On my 96 the plug is behind the ash tray....try pulling the ash tray out and it should be right there......good luck....ktk
I believe that you must use a code reader to read the OBD-2 codes.
To turn the check engine light off.
1. Turn the ignition switch off.
2. Remove the BACK-UP (7.5 A) fuse from the under hood fuse/relay box for 10 seconds to reset the ECM.
The fuse/relay box is on the passenger side near the firewall and hood hinge.
Does the motor quit?
Does it do the same in all gears?
Are you sure unhooking the battery does anything?
Can you wait the same length of time with the motor off and move the same distance after restart ?
Have you checked the transmission fluid level? Use only Honda compatible fluid?
Is the check engine light on?
How was the car acting prior to this condition? All of a sudden yes /no
i got the float on line at carparts.com for 67.00 i have another veh. i learned not to do to a dealer. even thought a carparts place dont show it listed. if there is a will there is a way.
dealers always mark up there parts. i get even after market parts. at least they work.
Honda is notorious for the M/C to fail with an internal piston seal failure.
You will not see an external leak, The fluid is bypassing the seals internally.
Bench bleed the new MC first.
Install M/C, snug the brake lines, leaving slightly loose.
Press pedal to the floor and hold, tighten the lines, finish bleed all 4 wheels.
Been There Done That on 94 and 97 Honda's.
The garage can't seem to figure this one out so any advise would be amazing since I got to travel to Boston this weekend.
Here is a little back ground (please keep in mind that I'm a rookie so bare with me)
I have a 1997 Honda Accord with Air conditioning. It has an air conditioning fan and a Radiator fan.
My radiator fan does not come on when my car reaches a very hot temperature. It will only turn on (work) if I turn on the Car's Air Conditioning and then both fans will work.
If my car is hot and I turn off the car and remove my keys, the Radiator fan will come on (work) until it is cool but as soon as I start the car the fan does not work.
If anyone has an idea, I left my car at the garage in hope that I can suggest a few things as they are doing some research as well and need to give them some possible solutions asap.
I know that they should figure this out but I don't have time to bring it anywhere else and judging by some feedbacks on this site some foks know 110% more that these mechanics.
If you know the solution and can provide some tips I swear I will take my car to your place or who ever you recommend but this time I'm stuck with these folks and dont' feel like spending $$$ to rent a car since I'm already in the whole.
THANK YOU, honestly thank you.
In the meantime, if you start overheating, turn your thermostat all the way to heat. This pulls warm air out of your engine, and could prevent total overheating/head gasket destruction. It saved me. In the meantime, since it IS July, just run the A/C, and you won't have a problem (if what you described about both fans coming on when the A/C is on is true).
http://techauto.awardspace.com/overheating.html
Also, the radiator fan only works when the AC fan is on, as in, only when I have the a/c working on the interior of the car....
I need help, any suggestions?
http://techauto.awardspace.com/overheating.html
i got an after market radiator for 90$ and 2.004 for the thermostat. . make sure u tighten the thermostat. but dont strip the cover to it.
its easy to do. get a maint book from your local autoparts store. it takes about a good day to do it.
make sure u dont drain the old fluid on the ground.
mite as well change the oil and check everything anyway.
make a day of it.
http://techauto.awardspace.com/transmission.html
Code 7 possible "shift control solenoid A"
Troubleshooting the Honda Ignition System - Coil, Igniter and more
http://techauto.awardspace.com/ignition.html
The shop that replaced the timing belt should be correcting the problem.
Poor workmanship, timing, bent valves, incorrect cam/crank timing.
Code 1: D4 light blinks:
- Disconnected lock-up control solenoid valve A connector
- Short or open in lock-up contorl solenoid valve A wire
- Faulty lock-up control solenoid valve A
Code 2: D4 light blinks:
- Disconnected lock-up control solenoid valve B connector
- Short or open in lock-up control solenoid valve B wire
- Faulty lock-up control solenoid valve B
Code 3: D4 light blinks or OFF:
- Disconnected throttle position sensor (TP) connector
- Short or open in TP sensor wire
- Faulty TP sensor
Code 4: D4 light blinks:
- Disconnected vehicle speed sensor (VSS) connector
- Short or open in VSS wire
- Faulty VSS
Code 5: D4 light blinks:
- Short in A/T gear position switch wire
- Faulty A/T gear position switch
Code 6: D4 light OFF:
- Disconnected A/T gear position switch connector
- Open in A/T gear position switch wire
- Faulty A/T gear position switch
Code 7: D4 light blinks:
- Disconnected shift control solenoid valve A connector
- Short or open in shift control solenoid valve A wire
- Faulty shift control solenoid valve A
Code 8: D4 light blinks:
- Disconnected shift control solenoid valve B connector
- Short or open in shift control solenoid valve B wire
- Faulty shift control solenoid valve B
Code 9: D4 light blinks:
- Disconnected coutershaft speed sensor connector
- Short or open in countershaft speed sensor wire
- Fauly countershaft speed sensor
Code 10: D4 light blinks:
- Disconnected engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor connector
- Short or open in ECT sensor wire
- Faulty ECT sensor
Code 11: D4 light OFF:
- Trouble in PCM
Code 14: D4 light Blinks:
- Trouble in PCM
Code 15: D4 light OFF:
- Disconnected mainshaft speed sensor connector
- Short or open in mainshaft speed sensor wire
- Fauly mainshaft speed sensor
Code 16: D4 light blinks:
- Disconnected linear solenoid connector
- Short or open in linear solenoid wire
- Faulty linear solenoid
Code 17: D4 light OFF:
- Short in kick-down switch wire
- Faulty kick-down switch wire
2.) To properly defog windows, turn the A/C on and put the airflow on Fresh.
Melanie
Any suggestions?
Oil change would not cause no start unless they didn't put oil in the car.
Was the car running hot or not? steam, poor running ,etc
Did you put water in the car or not? Is it still there?
Remove radiator cap and look.
If you run the car hot for a length of time you could have damaged the engine.
I doubt the oil or water has anything to do with the no start.
Does the engine turn crank over? Good Battery, jump start, etc
Seems to only act up when it is hot (the engine) or extremely hot outside (air temp). Once the car cools down it starts up and runs (shifts thru all the gears) just fine. The last 2 days i have been able to drive the car to work in the morning only to come out after work and not have the car start. After waiting till the late evening hours when the outside air temps start to fall I was able to start it up and drive it home just fine. I jumped the service connector under the glove box and got what I think are 3 or 4 transmission fault codes. Below are the flashes I saw when jumping the service connector. These are all D4 flashes
long flash, short short short
2-3 sec pause
short
2-3 sec pause
short short short short short short short
2-3 sec pause
short short short short short short short short
then it repeats that order indefinitely. From doing some reading on the Internet I think the 4 codes I got were 13, 1, 7 & 8 (not exactly sure on this one). The engine light was on the entire time and from what I read that means there are no engine codes stored.
Based on that information do you think you know what the problem is and is it something I could repair myself? Is it a major transmission problem that I am better off just selling the car and getting a new one or can this be fixed for a reasonable amount of money. When the car starts up normally the transmission works great. It has good power and you can not feel any slipping when accelerating hard, so that makes me think this is just a sensor or solenoid problem that should be somewhat easy to fix. But maybe that's just be being optimistic.
Thanks for the advice,
If the check engine light is on, AutoZone should read this for free.
Letting the car cool solves this problem.
Do you know where to find your transmission computer? If you do, take the cover off, and see if there are dark spots on the circuit boards (capacitors leaked on them). If so your transmission computer is the problem. You could find a used computer (make sure the numbers match), or some people can actually fix the old one. A new computer would cost at least $500, so that would be a last resort.
Until you can repair the computer (if that is your problem) you may want to park the car in the shade (if possible). The inside (not outside) of the car being hot will make the problem worse. After the windows have been opened for a while the problem usually gets better. Good luck guys
The Honda manifold is cast iron .
Some includes Gaskets and Hardware.
Try local suppliers first to save shipping cost or find lowest shipping on net.
These two web sites are really the same outfit, they just list price and shipping different.
$131.16 total includes shipping.
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/basket.php?add_item_id=7777051
http://www.thepartsbin.com/catalog/?N=1631+10605+4294966982+9339
$67.33 total includes shipping.
No gaskets, go to auto parts store and buy
http://www.doctorautoparts.com/exhaust-manifold-em--60028-item.html
I have purchased from these outfits with no problem.
Watch out for the O2 sensor, if you break it, big bucks
Make sure mounting brackets on the exhaust pipe under the oil pan are in good shape. This is a double wall pipe and the brackets are welded to the outer wall and break loose. They can be welded back, big bucks for a new pipe.
Mrbill
On a sidenote, the "Maintenance Reminder" is rolling from green to the next color. Water pump, timing belt and all other belts, spark plugs and wires all replaced already. All I honestly know I need is an air filter and the brake pads are slowly starting to give out a short squeal. Anything else to take note of before I reset it?
Btw, any air filter recommendations?
95 Accord Ex v6
MPG Update
215-230 miles between fillups 80%city or about 17.5mpg City
-Cj