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Comments
215 miles between fillups? Yikes!
Within 5-10 miles on the highway my water temp goes very close to the red on the gauge. This happens with AC on or off. When I get on city streets, the temp goes to normal. I've changed the coolent last December and started noticing it this summer. Does it sound like time for a new thermostat? this has happened even with temps under 80 degrees. :confuse:
My sons and I do all of our maintenance and most repairs.
I would like to know what folks have found to be the best parts sources for Honda?
Thanks.
http://www.handa-accessories.com/accord.html
flow.......water pump going bad, thermostat not opening enough, radiator has crud in it, not enough coolant
or
a head gasket problem, where you are getting exhaust gas being forced into your coolant chambers
At highway speed you have plenty of air flow over the radiator, so problem wouldn't be related to fans.
Also, I need a new suspension still so I have a BMW Sports Package like ride and excessive leaning on on ramps which I believe is robbing my mpg. I was quoted $450 to raplace suspension and cv joints and boots and still saving up on that repair. I just fixed the A.C. and go new belts a week ago too.
Did I mention my $2300 repair bill for a fender bruise in Feburary? Thats also not fixed yet...
I'm glad this car literally takes a lickin' and keeps on tickin'! :P
120750miles
-Cj
Thanks for your input and the links. It also spurred me to continue looking around some more, as usual for me, ever looking for the best deal. I found a new OEM replacement manifold at 1AAuto. The $74.95 includes tax and shipping, and a life time warranty. Bought it. I think it's a Dorman as well, without hardware, and made in Canada according to the two guys I talked with (I often like to double check info). I wanted to stay away from a unit made in China, which this one here might be, the last link you gave me. Can't tell. They couldn't tell me one way or the other. Also, I couldn't see the ports in the pic, how clear they were in case the casting job by the manufacturer wasn't very clean. And since their pic also "incorrectly" shows it for a "2.3L 4 cyl.", I took it all as telltale signs to be concerned about attention to quality. For 7 bucks more, the other made more sense.
I don't see an O2 sensor anywhere near this manifold, just at the back end of the first pipe, pipe "A", under the car, so I should be fine in that regard, unless you're seeing something I'm not. Also, my Haynes manual doesn't say anything about it either for doing this job on my car. But thanks for the warning about not damaging the exhaust pipe, to go easy on it in this job. Very good point.
Go to this link and download this Service Manual.( Zip file)
It is for a 94 but it will work. You may find more on this site
.
http://pdftown.com/Honda-Accord-1994-Service-Manual.html
Look in the Engine Section, intake manifold/exhaust system, exhaust manifold replacement (p172) ,goto 9-3 (p174)
I have the Haynes book but it leaves a lot to be desired.
There are two 02 sensors, one before the catalytic converter and one after the converter.
I would cut the heat shield on each side of the sensor so the heat shield will come off then you can get the manifold off and take the 02 sensor out.
Special wrench other wise..
But thanks for the heads up about this manual. I do appreciate it.
http://www.hondahookup.com/manuals
You will need to register to download. no big deal its free.
It feels like it is hesitating to shift, the RPMs go higher than they should. The car also downshifts going down hills earlier than I feel it should (and used to).
Anyone have a clue about this? My transmission fluid is clear red, doesn't feel dirty, and it smells like it just came out of the bottle.
I appreciate your comments.
What does the speedometer read/do when the car is moving?
Barry
The signal for the speedometer and cruise control coms from the VSS.
Your car is OBD2 CODE level "96 and up" I would thike if the VSS was bad you would have a check engine light on. (if needed the obd2 code plug is behind the ash tray)
Take a look at this site, It is not you year but it may give you ideas.
http://techauto.awardspace.com/vss.html#Solutions
Barry
1200 RPM per 30 MPH is about right.
1800RPM - 45mph
2400RPM - 60 MPH
2800 RPM - 70 MPH
etc...
Barry
http://www.carspace.com/guides/Honda-Radio-Codes
If the incorrect code was tried to many times you will need to do a reset. ( Disconnect the negative terminal for approximately 2 minutes)
Enter corresponding code number corresponding reset button.
94 thru 97 are almost the same.
http://www.hondahookup.com/manuals/
I know it is not the brake release. It has nothing to do with the key.
What I notice is that in the dash there is no gear position. None of the lights are lighted. I can hold in the shifter button and move it in and out of park but the light does not come on so I can not get the key out of the ignition.
Is there some type of gear position sensor?
drives (400 miles +)
I seem to be low 1/2-1quart after a long freeway drive.
I may also be losing oil on normal driving (but its probably less).
I don't see any leaks when the car is parked. Not sure if its being
burned or whats happening to it.
Has anyone else experienced this on their Honda engine?
Do those oil treatments help? Which ones would you recommend
I have 260K and I beat the hell out my car. The only things I needed to replace was the Alternator @ 260K, Starter @ 220K and Radiator @ 170K and EGR valve @ 200K. Just wondering what other problem areas are popping up (to a significant degree) over 200K. Thanks
- Radiator cracked near the top
- Main Cooling Fan Motor failed
- Brake Master Cylinder (brake fluid wasn't changed enough)
- Rear Power Door Lock
- Windshield Wiper Motor Clutch
- Clogged A/C condenser drain caused water on pass. side floorboard
1996 Accord LX I4 Automatic, 185k miles
Any suggestions greatly appreciated, thanks
Thanks for the response elroy!
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/oilyplugs/index.html