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Also when I turn the car off the fan continues to run for 5-10 minutes, I am guessing to cool down the car. When I feel as if the car is going to overheat up near the red I will turn the heat on in the car, but the needle does not fal but the air doesn't seem to be any hotter than if I normally turned the heat on in the winter. Sometimes I check the hood when I reach my destination and it does not feel extra hot to the touch but the fan will run. When the fan runs the air comming out from the engine smell real metalic. I just got the oil changed a month ago and still have atleast a thousand miles till my next change. I have checked the coolant levels in the reserve tank per the Manual instructions and that seems to be right where it should be. if anyone has any ideas they would be much appreciated!
The FSM will tell you how to bleed the air out of the cooling system
The system will air lock and not pump correctly or contact the fan thermostat.
I agree with montijo.
This link may help http://autorepair.about.com/library/a/1g/bl899g.htm
*** Note: I have been advised to post this there (props to replier) so sorry if you have seen my Edmunds first post already ***
If you have a moment, I wanted to do a quick run-down of my experience with my 1995 Accord Wagon, my current situation, and any advice that you might have. Please be gentle as this is my first post.
I purchased a 95 Accord Wagon LX at a very decent price in 2006 and have had a load of issues with it ever since. I buy cars to keep and kept my 90 Toyota Corolla for 13 years before I bought the Accord ... and had about 5 times the problems with the Accord in three years as I did in my 13 years of owning my Corolla,
In 2006, I replaced the:
- gas lines (rusted)
- brake lines (ditto)
- a couple of other items... I think a ball joint and brakes ... all to safety the vehicle
In 2007:
- exhaust intermediate pipe
- winter tires
- front brakes
- front calipers
In 2008:
- timing belt and water pump (due)
- valve cover gasket
- daytime running light module
- summer tires
- exhaust pipes (minus exhaust intermediate pipe)
- muffler
In 2009:
- windshield
- radiator
- catalytic converter (for emissions ... passed for two years)
The total over the three years is pretty scary at over $8500 (this includes the tires and regular maintenance oil changes) ... the car has also been Krown rust proofed every year on top of this since 2006.
Well ... now it has a rusted (leaks included) gas tank, worn rear brakes (to be expected) and "internal (hidden) corrosion and a hole 'bigger than my mechanic's hand' "
My mechanic, who I trust despite all of these repairs, told me that the car is not worth fixing ... especially since I had him look at it now for me SELL it. My wife and I had to buy a minivan for our expanding family and her business. I had planned to sell this car for some much needed home renos (yeah, smaller project) and now am left with this 'thing'.
What would you do with this car? Fixing it to sell it is not worth it given its value as a 95 Accord. My cousin sold her 95 Accord for 4K but this thing is obviously not going to give me much of an ROI. Sell it for parts (if so, how)? Take a sledgehammer to it?
I also wonder when I should have given up on this car. I mean no disrespect to Accords as my friends and family have a few of them ... it just seems that I have the 'special one'. I would not go into financial woes as I am sure that many of us have them but it seems like I really got burned on this car.
Thanks!
And please don't do what the other guy said, and JB weld it so the next guy can find out down the road.
I would not feel too good about the jb weld if I am passing the problem to somebody else (which from my first few items seems to be what the seller did to me). If I did not just want to toss this car to a junkyard, I guess that I could just sell it for parts. I am speaking with a friend's brother who is a Honda mechanic today. Perhaps he can just take it away from me and strip it for himself.
Thanks everybody! This is a very useful forum!
I just bought a 95 Accord with 90k miles on it. It looks good overall, but upon undercar inspection, I see that driver side steering rack boot is torn into 2 pieces.
Also, the owner tells me the AC compressor needs replacement.
My questions to the global wisdom:
1. Can I replace the steering boot myself (quite handy and not afraid to tackle new jobs)?
1a. If yes, can someone recommend procedure for changing it?
2. Can I replace the AC compressor myself and have the system evacuated/charged by a mechanic?
2a. If yes, again can someone post a procedure for doing this?
Thanks very much for advice.
fw_man
I believe if you replaced this with a 1 piece boot you would need to pay to have an alignment done after you finished anyway. Also I have needed to replace my tie rod end on my 94 accord 2 out of three times when I have taken the steering apart.
To Question 2 -
If you live in a state that sells R134a you may be able to replace yourself and charge. Just make sure to follow all instructions in a Chilton's or Haynes book, replace any O-ring seals that get exposed, and be very careful when putting it back together (those aluminum parts are expensive!). One more thing to think on - I did this myself, it is a bit of a job and a few other parts need to be removed. If I remember correctly a specific bracket gave me a little bit of frustration. However it is still very satisfying to have the job done yourself.
If it were me, the AC I would tackle myself. The Steering boot, I would find a local mechanic that has an alignment rack, see if you can negotiate for them to put a new boot on for $10-20 more than the cost of the alignment.
I guess, there may exist split boot for steering? If yes, since this is not rotating, this could be an option for me?
For AC, what about "evacuation"? How will the system perform if it has not been cleaned out?
You need to run the vacuum pump for at least 30 minutes to boil off the moisture. Just drawing a quick vacuum shutting off the pump and holding it for a while to check for leaks isn't good enough.
Although replacing the A/C pump may be your fix, if the old pump had issues and it sent metal fragments down the line, you may need to replace more then just the pump. A/C systems also have filter/dryers and that may need to be changed when you replace the pump.
Mrbill
It is a steering boot. CV boot is fine. Drive axle is fine too. It is a steering rack boot that covers the seal from steering rack towards the ball joint.
Thank you to all who provided valuable insights.
It seems that steering boot can be replaced by myself, provided I am very careful separating the ball joint and keeping the tread position of the tie rod end the same as before to try to avoid alignment.
AC? I will try it myself. As far as evacuating, will a cheap pump like this work?
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=96677
Many thanks again,
fw_man
When you turn the selector knob on the dash from hot to cold, is the in-line water valve on the heater hose opening/closing?
Mrbill
You may want to purchase one of their A/C manifold gage sets as well. That will give you the needed lines as well as a gage to monitor for leaks.
Mrbill
The hose supplies hot water to the heater coils and if the valve does not shut the hot water off during the cooling mode you will get warm air and think the air conditioner is not working correctly.
The valve is located on passenger side near the fire wall. It can be seen from the top side behind the motor. On position, the lever on the valve is inline with the hose. Off position, The lever on the valve is 90 degree to the hose. You can reach the valve from the top side and make sure the valve is completely 90 degree to the hose.
Been there done That
Mrbill
If I succeed in separating the tie-rod ball joint and knuckle, could I then slide the new boot onto tie rod without having to unscrew the tie rod alignment nut, thus avoiding a need for subsequent alignment?
Or will the new boot not fit around the ball joint?
Is there anything I need to put inside the new boot before installing? I think not.
Thanks again,
fw_man
Hi i was just wondering if any of you guys ever replaced a Heater Core for a 1994 Accord. My accord doesn't have heat. It blows and all but no heat. I checked my temp switch and turns out it was broken. Got a new one and turns out when i turn it to the hot mode(right).. It turns back to the left cause its not strong enough to stay there. somethings wrong with the part (on the bottom where the temp cable hooks onto) i kinda noticed it when i inspected it. So i kinda cheated. What i did was i popped my hood and adjusted the temperature switch to open and threw a tie strap on there so it wont shut the valve. After i did that i turned my engine on and left it running to see if any heat would come. After 17 minutes didn't noticed anything different. Same old air. The only different thing that i noticed was that if i set it into the defrost/blower mode i can feel a little warm air coming out of the LEFT driver side. But then the center blowers and the passenger side blowers blow regular cool air. So i figured its a possibility that it might be my Heater core so here i go....30 Minutes before it turned dark i got the dash out and the center console piece disassembled. Looking at the pictures this is where im at right now. Was just curious....Do i have to take out the round metal bar (which connects to the steering wheel-see image) that runs from passenger side to driver side? Because when i try to take the top piece off...It moves but wont come out because it keeps hitting the bar. I'm assuming i would have to take that part off and take the steering wheel out or down???
And 1 more thing....Is the heater core located in the bottom of the center console (see picture) because that's what im thinking cause thats where the inlet/outlet hose come in & out. This is my 1st time doing this so any help and Tips (regarding heater core removal) would be appreciated. Thanks and sorry for so long
Another possibility would be a plugged heater core.
Mrbill
1.The MIL comes on and the cause is traced to an emissions-related component.
2 The vehicle requires an emissions-related repair because it failed a mandated emissions test.
3 Any emissions-related component fails.
The warranty extension is 14 years or 150,000 miles.
It's hard to say whether you are covered or not, but it's certainly worth a shot.
CEL - Check Engine Light
Thanks much~
JgirlHB
My 97 is leaking coolant now@120,000. Checked hoses and gave a visual inspection,cant find anything. Appears to be leaking from the passenger side. Not driving the car and its going to the shop friday.
1997 Accord EX 2.2L Manual
Check engine is throwing code 71 (Cylinder 1 misfire)
I replaced my plugs and wires at first, reset the codes and went on my merry way.
Drove fine for about 1,000 miles, Check engine light came on. Reset the ECU Again. Came back after about 600 miles.
This seems to happen only on drives of over two hours and usually when I am fifth gear cruising along the highway.
Took the car from Chicago to St Louis tonight. CEL is again throwing code 71. I reset this alongside the highway, came back about 5 minutes later. Tomorrow morning I will reset it when cold and see if it comes back right away.
What I am wondering is:
What are some of the most likely parts or conditions that may cause this? (EGR valve? Overheating Ignition Control Module?)
Is anyone familiar with this type of problem?
Could this be a timing belt issue?
Thanks!
However, a 5th gear misfire does suggest a momentary breakdown of the ignition system.
Quotations from Costco:
- Michelin Energy ($121.99 each w/ their $70 off promotion = Total is $529.24)
- BFG Touring ($86.99 = Total is $381.24)
Quotations from Les Schwab:
- 86H SS-657 All Season Blackwall ($66.73 + Wheel Spin Balance + Valve Steam + Siping + Tax = Total $418.56)
- 86H Zexius XI-427 All Season Blackwall ($83.47 + Spin Balance + Valve Steam + Siping + Tax = Total $491.55)
Note: I am currently using Michelin from Costco, and it has been 4 years since it was new.
Questions:
1) Which of the tires above / listed are my best options?
2) Are the price / quotations I received reasonable?
3) Have been using the current tires for a little over than 4 years, is it time to get them replace?
4) What causes my tires to start crackling at the very first place?
Thanks!!!!!! Hope to hear more opinions from you all.
Thanks for all of your replies!! I am so glad to have second opinions. Now I guess I will take that as a lesson and start going to mechanics friends would refer to, at least I know they wouldn't trick me into something costly.
All the best,
Tim
This code could signify a gazillion things. It's not much to work with. So you have to get a Honda trouble code on their scanner or a deeper scan and/or more diagnostic work.
If you want me to guess at this point, and I didn't have a scanner, I'd check for vacuum leaks at the manifold and then I'd clean the MAF sensor and see what that does.
This misfire could be caused by so many other components, is the problem.
There's P0171, lean fuel mixture, which does indicate possible 02 or EGR problems.
P0131 is also an H20 sensor code.