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Honda Accord (1994-1997) Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • tallman1tallman1 Member Posts: 1,874
    1) Which of the tires above / listed are my best options?

    You may want to expand your search a bit. A great place to start is to check out tirerack.com.

    BTW, siping is an option on tires from Les Schwab. You don't HAVE to have that done.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    [P0301] The scan tool indicates Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P0301: Cylinder 1 misfire detected.

    DESCRIPTION
    Misfire detection is accomplished by monitoring the crankshaft speed with the crankshaft position (CKP) sensor which is attached to the crankshaft.
    If misfiring strong enough to damage the catalyst is detected, the MIL will blink during the time of its occurrence, and DTC P0301, P0302, P0303 and/or P0304 will be stored. Then, after the misfire has ceased, the MIL will come on.
    If misfiring that increases emissions is detected during two consecutive driving cycles, the MIL will come on, and DTC P0301, P0302, P0303 and/or P0304 will be stored.

    NOTE: If some of the DTCs listed below are stored at the same time as a misfire DTC, troubleshoot those DTCs first, then troubleshoot the misfire DTC.

    P0106: MAP sensor
    P0171, P0172: Fuel supply system
    P0401, P1491, P1498: EGR system
    P0441: EVAP incorrect purge flow*
    P1359, P1361, P1362: TDC sensor
    P1381, P1382: CYP sensor
    *: Sedan KL (SE, LX without ABS)/Wagon

    Possible Cause

    * Fuel injector clogging, fuel leakage, air leakage
    * Fuel injector circuit open or shorted
    * Injector resistor malfunction
    * Spark plug carbon deposits, fouling, malfunction
    * Ignition wires open, leaking
    * Distributor malfunction
    * Compression low
    * Valve clearance out of specification
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    If the misfire only happens for one particular cylinder, I would check that plug, wire, distributor cap etc. If the EGR was causing misfires, seems like it would happen on more than one cylinder. Maybe try switching a plug and wire, with another cylinder, to see if the misfire changes cylinders.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    He said he put in new plugs and wires....but that's still a good suggestion you have there.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Well, I've made the mistake of buying cheap plug wires from Autozone, and they caused misfires a week later. :sick:
  • gdoughertygdougherty Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1996 Honda Accord EX with approx. 175,000 miles on the car. My left front (driver side) upper wheel bearing is in need of repair as I have been informed. Should I also have the lower wheel bearing repaired at the same time too ? My mechanic mention that MOOG auto parts has a combination upper and lower wheel bearing assemble with the control arm and the bushings connected to the assemble. Is MOOG auto parts good to put on my Honda ? A Honda dealer gave me an estimate of approx. $425 for the upper and $275 for the lower repair. Any advice on the best manner to handle this repair issue is welcome. Thanks, Greg
  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Member Posts: 823
    Wheel bearings are outer/inner not upper/lower. Are you referring to bushings?
  • TrhenningTrhenning Member Posts: 15
    I will buy another set of wires. I am about to put on a different Distributor cap. I replaced my ignition coil before leaving St. Louis. I took off the distributor cap and it seemed unusually hot, upon closer inspection the plastic had that clearish discoloration on the side of it as if it had nearly melted. I replaced that, cleaned the distributor cap inside and made sure the rotor looked fine. I had a compression test done on this car too, that came back normal, but didn't have enough time or $$ to get the rest done right away.

    Here is the odd part.

    I found out specifically where the CEL will come on every time. On my 350+ mile drive up north the P0301 code (no other code or cylinder) would only come on when driving between 62-67 MPH in 5th gear and was feathering the gas to maintain speed. If I use 4th gear between 60-70MPH the misfire cyl 1 code will never appear.

    Does this sound like an O2 sensor? If it is, could it be possible it would be just giving bad readings and not be actually bad? Possibly Mass Airflow Sensor?

    I am thinking this is more RPM range + throttle position than anything exactly "speed" related. Any further ideas? Thank you for the help and info thusfar.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    I was thinking about the Crankshaft position sensor, but that usually causes multiple misfires on random cylinders. Like you said, I think you are looking at something rpm related (distributor, coil, plug, wire etc.).
  • abidkabidk Member Posts: 2
    I recently bought a 97 accord with 85k on it. The manual recommends changing the timing belt at 105k or every 7 years. The car is 12 years old and looks in generally good shape but i have no idea what state the timing belt is in or if it was ever replaced. To replace the timing belt/water pump would cost about 500 bucks and I bought this car for under 5 grand as a cheap car to not spend money on. Is it really risky not changing it, because I want to avoid preventative maintenance costs on a car I bought so I wouldnt be spending money, or would I be risking severe damage? Basically, what kind of damage could I expect if the belt breaks, and is that something I should worry about before 105k (because it has been past the 7 years or is that not too important)?
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Basically, what kind of damage could I expect if the belt breaks, and is that something I should worry about before 105k (because it has been past the 7 years or is that not too important)?

    That's very important; time causes belts to deteriorate (just as other components). If the belt fails, you're looking at, to put it simply, engine failure. You'd need a replacement engine for the car.

    Spend the $500; it can't be overlooked, and you're really on borrowed time. Just make sure when you have the timing belt done you get the water pump done. Most mechanics will tell you this since the big cost here is labor, and the same labor is required to do both. When I did mine, it was going to be $400 for the belt, or $478 for both ($400 + Water Pump Cost); there was no other labor charge for the pump. I own a '96 with the 2.2L I-4 engine (and the book says 90k, not 105k). If yours is a 4-cylinder and indeed a '97 model (as pictured below), it should be done at 90k miles. In 1998, they upped it to 105k.

    image
    image
  • thelemonthelemon Member Posts: 4
    Hey there. I wanted to ask something else about a new development on this car. I replaced the brake lines in 2006 and the gas lines in 2008 and am now told that they are both starting to rust again.

    I have had this car Krown'd (undercoated every year that I owned it since 2006). Is this even possible? Is there a such thing as 'surface rust' on these lines. Sorry that these are lame questions but I cannot see any way that lines this new could rust again so quickly ... even in the Great White North. The lines were exposed under the advisement of a mechanic (so that the crap would not accumulate in the shield).

    Anyway, lame duck question, but how is this possible? I park it on asphault

    Thanks,
    TheLemon
  • abidkabidk Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the reponse, I was thinking the same thing. I figured I may as well get it done cause if I dont do it now I know I will have to in the next two or three years anyway if I am planning on keeping it 3 years or more I may as well get it over with now instead of risking it.

    Incidentally, I did just check the manual and it definitely says 105k, with the exception of 65k for extreme temperatures. I guess they changed it from 96 to 97.
  • skyking49skyking49 Member Posts: 112
    Sorry about the late reply but if you have a place like Advanced Auto they will haul out a computer and hook it up to your car for free and get any error codes and tell you what they mean. The best part is it is FREE. My plug was located behind the Ash Tray. May be too late to help you with this problem but it may help down the road.
  • skyking49skyking49 Member Posts: 112
    Forgot to add that the wipers will work if I hold down the control arm. What could be the problem?
  • chlewlechlewle Member Posts: 1
    My starter has broken free and I'm looking to replace it, can anyone tell me what size the bolts are to hold the ears in place? It is a 1996 Honda Accord 5 speed... Help!
  • TrhenningTrhenning Member Posts: 15
    Your local honda dealer should sell these bolts, not too expensive if I remember correctly (somewhere to the tune of $3-$7). I usually ask for 20% off and get it too. I think the main problem is, were you able to get your old botls completely out?

    Best,

    Tim
  • rhvoilesrhvoiles Member Posts: 1
    I had the same problem with a 1995 Honda Civic SI. I finally diagnosed the problem resulting from the coil pack that is located under the Distributor cap. Be careful removing the wires as the protective coating may break off. I purchased one at NAPA and that did the trick.
  • erock64erock64 Member Posts: 5
    My 97 accord with120,000 miles. The tach would bounce around and then flat line after about 10 min. from cold start. Also the engine would hesitate in conjunction with the tach. Replaced the dist to solve the tach issue($90 used) and the a new coil fixed the hesitation. Hope this can help someone else.
  • oahuboyoahuboy Member Posts: 8
    tried starting the car this morning..won't start. Blinking D4 light i think is the problem. Ive been fine driving with it when the light just wouldn't show when it was in D4 gear..All the other gears light up just not that one. But now i believe its the reason i can't start the car..Need help
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    What year is your car? Mr_Shiftright has replied to you here.
  • oahuboyoahuboy Member Posts: 8
    1993 i think
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    Okay. Next time just post in the Maintenance and Repair discussion that covers that year. Note too that it's only necessary to ask your question in one place. The Accord followers tend to read all the Accord discussions, so your post will definitely be seen.

    Welcome - hope we can help!
  • dsautodsauto Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1994 Honda the charging system is not working. We have been through 3 altenators and 2 batteries. Just changed the dash cluster and still nothing. Can you help me?
  • ecomajorecomajor Member Posts: 2
    I have a 4 cylinder 4 door accord dx value package. Does anyone have a good picture or a good description of how to access the thermostat. My heat does not get very hot (it gets a little warm) but not warm enough to counter 15 degree weather so I am pretty certain I need to replace or fix my thermostat, but I cant figure out how to access it. Is it accessible from the top of the car or do I need to go under neath.

    Thanks
  • TrhenningTrhenning Member Posts: 15
    Have you checked your coolant (antifreeze) levels?
  • ecomajorecomajor Member Posts: 2
    Yes, I had this problem both before and after getting a new radiator installed. I didnt even think about it when I got my radiator replaced bc it wasnt too cold yet so I didnt notice it.
  • omarromarr Member Posts: 88
    Yes the thermostat could be stuck. Probably not the problem. To find it. follow the hose coming off of the upper radiator to the engine, where it stops that is the thermostat housing. The thermostat is inside the housing. You have to go inside there to remove it.

    Most likely you need to bleed the air out of the coolant system.
    Look for a bleed plug near or in the thermostat housing.
    It is also possible to loosen the hose going to the heater to bleed the air.
    Make sure the water valve in the hose going to the heater is open.
    When the arm on the valve is inline with the hose the valve is open.
    When the arm is 90 degree to the hose the valve is closed.
    The operating linkage fails at times.

    If you have air trapped in the system the water most likely will not go through the heater.

    Been there done that ;)
  • sib1sib1 Member Posts: 5
    what does the air temperture sensor do and if it is broke will that make D4 light
    blink also car started raceing with high rpm will broken air temperture sensor cause this problem
  • omarromarr Member Posts: 88
    The D4 light blinking is a trouble code indicator for a transmission fault.
    Similar to the Check Engine light.

    The number of blinks is the fault code.

    Thi link shows how to check the D4 codes on a Acura, your Honda is probably the same
    http://www.justanswer.com/questions/2luo1-1993-acura-4-dr-auto
    Need to know the number of blinks
    Some one may have info for the Honda.
    What is the transmission doing?

    Intake Air Temperature will not cause the D4 blink.

    You would have a Check engine light for the IAT sensor

    IAT sensor fault in system, poor start, high / low idle, poor mileage, etc
  • sib1sib1 Member Posts: 5
    speedo does not work sometimes it bounces and sometimes it works for a short
    time what could be the cause of this be.can somebody help
  • omarromarr Member Posts: 88
    If the speedometer bounces around 19 / 20 mph the speedometer head is bad.

    If your cruise control works (maintains speed) the vehicle speed sensor (VSS) is good.
    Don't let anyone tell you it is bad.

    Honda calls the complete assembly a COMBINATION METER.

    You can find Honda information here.
    http://hondatech.info/downloads/Auto/Manuals/Accord/ ;)

    Been there done that.
  • aknottaknott Member Posts: 1
    So recently my car broke down im 19 dont know much about cars in general, i am the second owner of this car, Car ran fine till one day driving on the highway going about 80mph the timing belt snapped, brought it to the repair shop, the mechanic said some valves got bent while the time belt snapped while driving, i get the car fixed and running again, car runs fine, only problem when driving whenever i accelerate my car it makes a loud like whistling sound, like kinda high pitched whistling sound, like air being possibly sucked in to something. if only the timing belt was changed earlier....sigh. maybe someone can help me out with why its making this noise?

    heres a list of what got replaced while at the repair shop
    Car has 148,000 miles so far
    *timing belt
    *HeadGasket set
    *sparkplugs
    *Intake Valve
    *Exhaust valve
    *thermostat
    *payed a good 1400 to fix


    im planning on driving to La soon, Kinda worried this whistling sound might be an early indication of worse to come lol. dont wanna break down while driving. car drives fine other thatn whistling sounds

    -andrew
  • omarromarr Member Posts: 88
    Take it back to the person you who did the repair work. They have done something wrong or didn't complete their job. Could be air leak or exhaust leak. Alternator, power steering or air condition belt tension. Over tension of timing belt or bad tension and idler rollers.

    :confuse:
  • TrhenningTrhenning Member Posts: 15
    All - Update. The Problem is finally Solved.

    A mix of things was causing the problem.

    A: The Ignition Coil was going bad.
    B: The EGR valve was caked with carbon.
    C: The OBDII Unit Needed Replaced.

    I can't be sure about the plugs/wires, but they could have been part of the problem too.

    I paid for the ignition coil myself $100 before finding out about Honda Service Bulletin 98-081. This warranties a long list of parts and the misfire code is one of those. This extends the warranty up to 150,000 miles or 14 years and since I am at 133,000 now all is well.

    Thank you to everyone for your help and suggestions. It is good to get fresh ideas and more places to look when one is frustrated.
  • jblankenship89jblankenship89 Member Posts: 1
    Okay, since day one the ABS light has been on, but never caused me any trouble so I didn't do anything about it.

    The other day though when I started the car it was idling higher than normal up to 3 rpms & reving up without me pushing on the gas. It's also not changing into gears & in order to change them I have to use the shift lock key.

    Saw someone say it might be brake interlock switch, however I don't know & would like expert opinions.

    (Also, this might sound stupid but the 'brake light' light has been on since I got the car too & my brake lights work just fine.)
  • jj4holejj4hole Member Posts: 2
    need to know why im getting to much fuel supplyed to spark plugs this is a 1995 honda accord 4cylinder fuel injection.
  • joey_bushyjoey_bushy Member Posts: 1
    I recently noticed that my instrument panel lighting flickered on and off and now it doesn't come on at all. This problem seemed to start when it was raining for several days in a row. It flickered on and off for a while when I would hit the brakes or a bump. ANY IDEAS???
  • jw565jw565 Member Posts: 1
    94 accord need some help no cruise controlhello guys i'm new to this site i have a 94 accord 2dr 2.2 vtec that i just bought the cruise control will not set the lite comes on at the switch on the dash i'm not sure what check can anybody help
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Just to double check, you're pushing the cruise control button on the dash (by the air vent), then pressing the set-button on the steering wheel, at a speed greater than 25 MPH, right?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Could be lots of things. You might check your fuses, and (in my case) I fixed mine by finding a loose wire at the brake switch (which shuts off the cruise when you tap the brake).

    If not that, then it's electronic, in the control modules or servos.
  • rsn7498rsn7498 Member Posts: 1
    I recently had my 94 Accord inspected. They said they needed to fix the wires on my fog lights. After driving my car off the mechanics lot it ran fine. After I drove about ten miles I started to have problems with my guages and the car kept on stalling. I would have to hold the switch on for the car to run. I finally made it home without holding it anymore. When I tried to start it later that day it would not start unless I held it in the start position again. I had it towed to the mechanic and he told me it was the ignition switch. My question is, is there any way he shorted the ignition switch when he was repairing the fog lights? He told me that there is no way that is connected with the ignition switch. The only reson I am asking is because this is the first time I used this mechanic and don't know if he is ripping me off.
  • jesszhondajesszhonda Member Posts: 4
    i don't know if you are having the same problems as what I experienced but my ABS light goes on if I park on a hill for instance. I was told by a mechanic that if it does not go off within the first few moments of driving, then that would mean that the braking pressure or fluid was being unevenly distributed.
    i know that the 94s and maybe the 95s also have a factory defect with the rivet in the parking brake rod getting stuck.
    my car has idled high ever since i've had it and my dad says that is due to the timing being off and to change the timing belt (have done so three times since and it still does it though).
  • jesszhondajesszhonda Member Posts: 4
    the part he checked on probably was straight from the factory, conforming to custom specs that are OEM and proprietary. you could have someone fix something togethr that would do the trick or get it from ebay for less than a quarter of the price they asked for.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    If the idle is too high, the shift-lock will not allow the shift lever to move out of Park position. I think you have a problem with the FITV (Fast Idle Throttle Valve) or the IACV (Idle Air Control Valve). This is not a timing belt issue, I don't think.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    I think it's highly unlikely the mechanic did anything to your ignition switch. Probably just a coincidence that it went out at that time.
  • joeaiutojoeaiuto Member Posts: 8
    I have a 1994 Accord and am looking for a TPS (throttle position sensor) which is part of the throttle body. Honda wants $700 for whole kit. Does anyone have any ideas as to where I can get one, used would be fine. I'm in Florida but willing to deal throughout the country. Thx. joe
  • joeaiutojoeaiuto Member Posts: 8
    thx. Will do. much appreciated
  • leowleow Member Posts: 1
    For the 3rd time in 14 years, my SRS warning light comes on. Again, it's the control unit that needs to be replaced. First time, Honda covered the repair under a recall. Second time, I paid. Now it's happened again and Honda refuses to accept responsibility--normal wear & tear. There are several dozen complaints--mine now as well--on the NHTSA web site. Anyone had this problem and, more importantly, convinced American Honda to own up to responsibility?
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