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Honda Accord (1994-1997) Maintenance and Repair



  • mrsdoyle1mrsdoyle1 Posts: 1
    My cars has been doing the samething. I cuts off when im comming to a stop or idling. Somthimes the A/C doesnt work too all of a sudden. I had my alternator and battery replaced. It still does the same thing in the middle of traffic. I took it to my guy to find out whats wrong and he couldnt give me an answer. Someone else wrote me though and said she had a steering switch installed, a starter cable assembly and the connector to the positive post was corroded and needed to be replaced. I HAVE NO IDEA what that means. but it hasnt pooped on her in the last 6months yet..must have dont something : (...wish i could find out i just bought this car.
  • dnannerdnanner Posts: 2
    Whomever posted this THANK YOU. My husband replaced an engine in a 94 Accord almost three weeks ago. It started the first time and ran for a while checking the temp and such. It would not start again! He has traced every wire and tested every thing going down the pages in the service manual.
    He finally wired a switch betwenn the PCM-FI relay and terminal 4 and 5 so if it does not start you can bump this switch so the fuel pump will start. If
    I read that post right I know that board must have a crack and that is why he could not find the problem. We finally drove it last night w.out blinkers and dash lights but I think he knows how to fix that. I am going to suggest he read some of these post though even experienced auto guys need a tune up every now and again. THANKS AGAIN!!!
  • jhrostjhrost Posts: 36
    My 95 Accord LX 4 cylinder 4-door started leaking radiator fluid. It appeared to be coming from the underside of the upper radiator hose, where it attaches to the (Toyo) radiator. Upon removing the hose however, I found that the plastic part of the radiator over which the hose fits had actually broken, causing the leaking problem. I have the Service Manual for this vehicle, and I'm getting the sense from that and from a Parts place on the Internet that the radiator is a one-piece affair, and that the entire thing will now need to be replaced, even though it's just this one plastic "neck" section that seems to be the problem.

    Looking at the radiator though, you almost get the impression that it is composed of a plastic section mounted on top of a metallic section. If that were the case, and since only the plastic section is at fault, it seems that if one could just remove the plastic section and replace it, you would fix the problem.

    So, I guess my question is: is it possible to just remove this plastic section and replace it, and if so, where would you obtain just the plastic section to do that? Thanks for any replies.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 58,461
    I wouldn't bother to try and mickey mouse it--you can buy all aluminum replacement radiators for under $100, and given that overheating is fatal to small alloy engines, it seems prudent to just replace the whole thing, with a superior product at that, and be done with it.

    Here's ONE EXAMPLE, although I don't know the product so I'm not necessarily recommending it. I'm just trying to give you some ideas and encouragement.


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  • jhrostjhrost Posts: 36
    edited June 2011
    I guess I figured that would probably be the smart move - thanks for confirming that. I'm inclined to try doing the radiator replacement myself - is that advisable for a relatively adept do-it-yourselfer, or should I leave this job to a professional?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 58,461
    The book says that for a 4 cylinder Accord, 1995, that the labor for a professional mechanic is 1.8 hours with standard transmission and 2.2 hours with automatic (because of the cooler lines to the automatic that you have to deal with). That doesn't sound too intimidating but you should read up on how to re-fill an empty radiator.

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  • jhrostjhrost Posts: 36
    It took me a little longer (ok, a lot longer, lol) than the 1.8 hours, and I made a couple of boneheaded mistakes along the way (luckily recoverable ones), but it now seems to be working fine - thanks for the encouragement
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 58,461
    Well I did say "professional" mechanic, so you should still congratulate yourself for jumping in and finishing it. You can't expect to match the time of a trained person who does this day in and day out. I mean, think about how long it would take you to do your own root canals. :P

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  • shopdog97shopdog97 Posts: 160
    A friend of mine called me today and asked if I could help him with a speedometer problem in his wife's '94 Accord LX . It has 168K on it and has been a great vehicle for them and he feels strongly that it can go another 100k with no problem. He claims that the speedometer needle goes to 20 MPH and that's it, it just sits there and shakes. He's been told that there is NO CABLE on this model Accord with auto trans, and it must be the Vehicle Speed Sensor or something of this nature. I had a '78 Accord myself in the early 80's, and I remember my speedo doing all kinds of things and making such a racket once that I thought it was going to pop out of the dash! But that model had a cable and all I had to do was pull the cable out and coat it with lithium grease and that solved the problem. Now is it possible that it could be the VSS and could anyone tell me where I might look for it- I would think that it would be somewhere on the tranny. If they're gonna keep the car, they need the speedometer working correctly before it's next State Inspection here in Pa in August. I told him we'd get together next Saturday and see what we could find out. But I'd certainly appreciate any help anyone can give me on this. Thanks a bunch and may God Bless!!
  • omarromarr Posts: 88
    edited June 2011
    The problem is the speedometer head.
    This is a common problem with the Accords.
    I replaced mine with one from a salvage yard.
    I would advise replacing the complete assemble be case the assemble is made up of a lot of circuit boards. could be any one part bad.

    Do not let some one tell you it is the Vehicle Speed Sensor.
    Prove this by turning on the Cruse Control, if the car maintains the speed the VSS is good.

    Honda calls the Gauge assemble a "Combination Gauge"
    The speedometer head is part of the "Combination Gauge"

    Go to this site and download the service manual for the 94-97.
    this will show how to remove the the "Combination Gauge"
    The Gauges are available on Ebay or scrap yards, just make sure they are selling good parts.

    Ebay - =Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&_odkw=honda+gauge+cluster&_osacat=0&bkBtn=&_- - trksid=p4506.m270.l1313

    "Manual and Automatic or ABS "

    Make sure the gauge fits your car "Manual and Automatic or ABS " they are different.

    Been there done that don't waste money on a speed sensor.
  • shopdog97shopdog97 Posts: 160
    Thank you omarr for your timely response to this problem. I will call my friend Mario and explain your fix to him and probably print out what you have written. I'm sure he's not gonna be too happy about it as this is quite a bit more work than he thought. I haven't been to the site you listed above yet, but is this a difficult repair? I took apart the instrument cluster on my Dodge Dakota last year to replace a tiny light bulb and I have to say that went smooth. I will tell him that it's the Combination Gauge and I guess we'll have to go from there. There's a local U Pull It salvage yard not far from us that may have that part we need. I'm wondering now what years this Combination Gauge will fit, or is this just something exclusive to the 94 Accord? Anyway, thanks so much for the info and I'll post later how it turned out.
  • omarromarr Posts: 88
    I believe 1994 through 1997 are the same.
    It is a pretty simple thing to replace the combination gauge.
    One hour plus/minus. $100.00 plus/minus

    Make sure about automatic, manual, ABS brake.

    Down load the service manual it will tell you how to remove the gauge.
  • shopdog97shopdog97 Posts: 160
    Many thanks, Omarr, for your response to my friend's speedometer issue on his daughter's '94 Accord. He got a replacement instrument cluster earlier this week at a salvage yard for 75 bucks. We did the job this morning and it went great! Everything works as it should. I drove the car with him right after we got the gauges in without putting all the trim back to make sure it was OK. As I said, the car has over 168k on it, but it has plenty of power for that 2.2 motor and seems run just fine save for a few minor things like the tires, while all are the same size, they are different tread patterns, so I suggested that he or his daughter(most likely HIM) replace them. I pulled off a spark plug wire and noted that there was an accumulation of oil in the hole. Is this normal for this motor? 2 of the 4 had some oil in the hole. I didn't take the plugs out to check them, but as I said the car seems to have plenty of power. Thanks again for the wise advise, Omarr, and have a Blessed day!!
  • omarromarr Posts: 88
    edited July 2011
    Thanks for the feed back.
    I try to give correct information when offer input on a problem.
    Most likely I have been there and done that, so it comes from past experience.
    Some folks try to help but often their info is bogus. so be careful. A lot of good folks on Edmund's, just make sure the advice is from someone who has done the work.
    Look at the used tire shops for tires if money is tight.
    You can find almost new for third the price of new, usually includes balance and installed. try to match at least two at a time.

    Valve cover gasket approximately $25.00. Gasket should include outer perimeter face rubber gasket and spark plug holes rubber gaskets . You will need silicon gasket sealer for the corners at the distributor housing. No big rush on fixing the gasket just put it on the calender to do. Easy job to do.

    Down load the manual, you wont regret it
  • damtrudamtru Posts: 1
    when my 1997 4 cy automatic honda accord is hot, my tranny slipps out. Then I have to come to a stop, put in in my lowest gear, and i can build up some acceleration and get it back into my lower, regular drive. If I use my regular drive gear, my tranny will disingauge and my rpms shoot up.
    I shut off my car and coasted for about 2 miles then parked it for about 10 minutes. when i got back in, the tranny seemed fine, for about 5 minutes, then it started doing it again.

    has anyone had anything similur happen? someone told me it might be my tranny cooloer, something. I dont know.
  • cecjetsetcecjetset Posts: 1
    Help! How do you fix the speedometer when it quits. Also,the odometer and cruise control does not work when speedometer quits. Thanks, Charlotte :(
  • I sure could use some help I have gone round and round with the starting issues on this 94 accord of my sons. I have replaced distributor (tonight) fuel pump, pgm relay, ignition switch, installed new plugs, along with cap and rotor. the original problem would be turning over but never cranking but if let to sit it would crank the next day or so. after installing distributor I would try to crank but nothing first crank. after two or three cycles of trying to start it will crank and run great. When you turn it off and crank again it will fire right back and run. If you let it sit for a few minutes the same thing happens. It is almost as if its losing its prime or some temp switch is out of wack. I have been working on cars for over thirty years and this has got me. Even my honda contacts and connections are no help! anyone have a suggestion.
  • omarromarr Posts: 88
    Do this trouble shooting and re-post.

    Determine if you have spark, spark across plug that is connected to plug wire and grounded. on old timing light is excellent for this connect and see if light flashes, flash means spark is good, check all wires.

    Check if getting fuel, spray some starter fluid into intake while cranking,
    engine should fire on the stater fluid.

    Go to this site and download the 94 service manual
  • Yes I have already done this early on, thats when I replaced the main relay and then the fuel pump. and yes it does try to run on the fluid when sprayed in the intake
  • If it runs when fuel is sprayed in the intake, it means you aren't getting fuel from the injectors.

    1) check to see the injectors are connected electrically and are getting power from the computer. You can use a 'noid' light or a voltmeter, as described here:

    You have to check because if you are spraying fuel manually, all you know is that the spark works. You don't know if the injectors are connected electrically (could be computer/fuse/wiring, etc.)

    2) If you have electrical power to the injector, the next thing to do is measure the pressure in the injector rack. You can get a gauge from Harbor Freight Tools (check on-line too) for about $9-$12.

    If you have pressure in the injector rack when cranking (it should be a constant pressure put out by the electric fuel pump), then you have clogged injectors.

    Fuel pumps are tricky and expensive - if you are getting intermittent stalls, it could be due to a flaky fuel filter/clogged line/clogged injector/bad electrical, or it could be the fuel pump itself - any of these can cause a loss of fuel pressure. The fuel pressure gauge will definitely tell you if you are maintaining adequate fuel pressure. If you have constant fuel pressure, and electrical signal to the injectors, then it is definitely clogged injectors.
  • omarromarr Posts: 88
    Check the fuse for the fuel pump.
    Check the fuse for the injectors.

    Check for voltage at fuel pump.

    Download the Service Manual, it tells you how to trouble shoot the fuel system.
  • corkscrewcorkscrew Posts: 254
    Here is a link to a troubleshooting flow chart. Hope it helps:

  • I have a 1995 Honda Accord EX Sedan 4 Speed Automatic Transmission. Its VIN indicates that it was made in Japan. It has over 220,000 miles on it. Drives beautifully, till now!

    A few days ago I cranked up the car and it started normally. Changed the Shift to 'D4' and then turned on the AC, about to drive. AC turned on normally. But I realized that I had forgotten to pick up something and so I changed the Shift back to 'P' and the car went dead. I was not able to start the car again. It cranks just fine, but does not start. I then noticed that the D4 light kept blinking.

    Based on the posts on this site, I retrieved the OBD codes manually and they read as below:

    1 8 13 and 14.

    The Engine Check Light is a steady yellow.

    I have a previous SRS problem that I have not fixed yet. When I did the above test, the SRS light on the dashboard was also blinking.

    Does this indicate a faulty ECM?

    Is this a certain diagnosis? Or can I do anything else to confirm before I purchase a new/used part.

    If I removed the ECM, can I do any basic functional test with a multimeter to confirm that it is faulty.

    Thanks. Any help is appreciated.
  • My heat control knob won't open the valve to let water into the heater core. It works when going from hot to cold (valve closes). I can operate the valve by hand and I have taken the knob off and it's not cracked, the shaft from the knob that goes into the dash appears fine also. Why will it work going from hot to cold but not the other way? Any one had this problem? Thanks.
  • Hello,

    My wife recently bought a used 1995 Honda Accord with a 2.2L (non Vtech). It is Automatic and had several problems when she purchased it.

    First off the speedometer wouldn't work (it was unplugged from the sensor).

    The second thing was that it was loosing coolant (water pump- I changed it and replaced the timing belt and such).

    The main problem it is having, that I can't figure out for the life of me, is that it stalls out all the time. Mind now, It will only stall out once it reaches operating temperature. Even then, if I allow it to warm up by just sitting in idle it will run till it runs out of gas or I shut it off.
    As soon I take it for a drive and it reaches operating temp it will stall at low rpms (such as a traffic light, stop sign, w/e) It will keep running if I keep the accelerator held in slightly.
    I have tried changing the fuel filter and spark plugs/wires and other tuneup related repairs but it still does the same thing. Mind now, It has been stalling out the same way even before I changed the Timing and Balance shaft belts.

    Does anyone here have any idea on what would be causing this problem? Remember, it runs fine till it gets warmed up and I use the accelerator, then it won't hold idle and just stalls.
  • It's almost a guarantee it's stalling because of a lack of fuel pressure. Why? When the car is cold the computer deliberately makes the mixture rich; when it warms up it leans out the mixture. If it will idle forever, then there is adequate fuel flow to the injectors - AT IDLE.

    When you put demands on the fuel supply system however (warm=lean mixture; accelerate from stop=rush of fuel needed), the car will stall. Slight opening in throttle lowers fuel demand and car will keep running (although poorly).

    Best thing to do: check the fuel pressure actually supplied to the injector rack with a fuel pressure gage (Harbor Freight Tools has one for <$20; can be ordered on-line). Bolt this in and test. I forget how much pressure should be there always (36 psi or 9 psi). This will confirm you are getting adequate fuel pressure even under acceleration. Hope it's not the electric fuel pump - could be $400 to replace. Reconfirm for dirty fuel filters/clogged/bent fuel line. Should be 36 psi under all circumstances - if it drops off for some reason (weak fuel pump) then the car will sputter and stall.

    Could also be the fuel "main relay" (virtually all of them failed in this series of Honda; the replacement relay has same design defect; can be repaired by taking apart and resoldering, or replacing). A failed main relay will cause a stall when the car gets hot - however it will not restart until it cools off (which could be hours).
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Hey all,

    I have a 1996 Accord LX with 232k miles on it. It has slowly developed an abnormality with the turn signals when the weather is cold. The colder the interior of the car, the longer it takes for the signals to begin to flash. On a morning when the temp is under 40 it can take as long as 45 seconds to start flashing. The hazard lights work immediately when you press the button regardless of temp. The mechanic replaced the flasher, but the issue didn't change.

  • It may be the switch itself. Switches always have a coating of grease in the mechanism, yours could have thickened from age and that's slowed down the moving contact. Depending on the design, the contacts may be exposed and spraying a lubricant may help.

  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    The odd part is that once the interior warms up, maybe 15 mins into the drive, the blinkers are much quicker to respond. In the summer, there is no lag at all.
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