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Honda Accord (1994-1997) Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Hey folks. I have a 1996 Automatic Accord, and the light that makes the PRND4,D3,2,1 Light up on the center console is out... is this an easy fix? The indicator on my instrument panel works, so it isn't completely necessary that I fix this light, but if it's not hard to do, I'd like to have it done. Any suggestions?
  • natedeardorffnatedeardorff Member Posts: 17
    Hey Man,
    I cannot say if you have a definate problem or not with the tranny, however I do know that some Honda automatic tranmissions tend to act weird sometimes as you are experiencing. My family has a '96 civic and it has a hard time with second and third gear, it will shift into third, and then downshift into second for no apparant reason, kick up to about 4000 RPM, and then shift again at like 4500 or 5000. It will also hesitate a lot in 4th on the highway when the AC is on. I have talked with some third-party mechanics and they have told me a lot of people report the same type of problems with the honda auto transmissions on the sedans. It isnt anything that will cause the tranmission to lose life, its more just an issue of inconvenience.

    I am not sure what the gauge problem would be related to. Maybe a circuit that has shorted somewhere?? I have not experienced this problem before.

    Personally I can not stand this little querk about the civic that I have been driving. So when I was looking for my used 97 used accord, I decided to get the 5sp man trans.--you get the benefits of being able to shift when you want, and you get an extra gear, which means better fuel economy.
  • mamamia2mamamia2 Member Posts: 707
    A. How many miles you have on the odometer?
    B. When was the transmission last flushed?

    Honda transmissions are known for being "peculiar"... And they MUST be flushed (not changed, but flushed) every 35,000 (or maybe 50,000, not sure) and you must fill it up with only original Honda transmission fluid.

    If the car has less than 150,000 miles, it MAY be covered under this Honda special extended warranty discussed here before, which also covers some issues with the transmission's behavior.
  • dballdball Member Posts: 15
    The odometer and trip meter on my 96 accord has stopped working. Speedometer and tach are fine. Any thoughts?
  • mrgold35mrgold35 Member Posts: 73
    Try this web site to see if it helps. You can leave it alone and fix it when you sell the car :P

    http://p-car.com/diy/odometer/
  • autoboy16autoboy16 Member Posts: 992
    I have the standard accord tires (P205/60 R 15) and one of the tires look a little low. What is the recommended tire pressure? I'm guessing 25 PSI but don't want to chance it.

    -Cj :)
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    What is the recommended tire pressure? I'm guessing 25 PSI but don't want to chance it.

    Check your door panel, but every Accord I've had has been 32 PSI Reccomended, with a maximum of 35 PSI. 25 is much too low, I believe. Your mileage should greatly improve, as should your tire wear, when you increase them into the 30s. (Again, check the door-jamb for definitive answers on reccommended pressure, but the 185/65 15 tires on my Accord LX and the 205/65 16s on my 2006 EX Accord both reccommend 32 PSI.
  • jjv99jjv99 Member Posts: 33
    You need to provide more information.
    - Is your brake system loosing fluid? Is the fluid level changing?
    - Sounds silly but check if the fluid container is correctly closed.
    - With the car engine off. Press the pedal..does it slowly goes all the way down or does it stops before?. If you keep pressing the brake after you pump it several times..does the stopping position of the pedal changes compare when pressing it without pumping.
    - While stepping onto your pedal, turn on the engine. Usually the pedal should move about half distance to reaching the floor.
    - When was the last time you bleed your system. Or when was the last time you change the complete brake fluid?
    Driving in this conditions is too risky, specially if you are pumping the brakes when this problem shows up while driving (seems that you are doing that when u said "..retry to stop..")....you could get killed (or what is worst :) , somebody else killed), if you don't repair your brake system. Based on the few things you mentioned seems that your problem is in the master cylinder.
    Let us know if you were able to solve your problem and what exactly was the problem so others can learn.
  • jjv99jjv99 Member Posts: 33
    Angelbyrd, could you please let us know if you ever solve your problem? If yes, please post what you did.
    I'm having the same problem. My Car won't crank at all once in a while...

    Anybody; do you know if there is any component between the ignition switch and the starter. I'm wondering because when this problem shows up; I'm able to make my starter to work if I bridge it directly. Hope somebody could help. Thanks
  • autoboy16autoboy16 Member Posts: 992
    in my accord, if the alarm is activated and you didn't start the car, it won't crank at all. Then i have to press the alarm button and all is well. Back in may, it really starteled me because it was raing (beyond cats and dogs) and it wounldn't start. I opened the door to exit and heard the alarm so i got back in and deactivated it. It started fine. Eventually i realized the alarm is a kill switch. My 12 year old car has tecnology our 04 explorer doesn't have....

    -Cj
  • seranikoseraniko Member Posts: 27
    temp goes high only when in heavy traffic, checked thermostat-ok, no oil-water mixing, cooling fan seems working, coolant flush @40k...now @58k...any ideas?
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    I was going to suggest that cooling fan since it goes up in traffic. Anyway, run the heater when the car starts running hot, and turn off the A/C. This (running the heat) will pull heat out of the engine and help keep things cool in the engine room (although hot in the car!). Check on that fan; my 1996 Accord LX 4-cyl Auto had the cooling fan motor die at 135,000 miles approximately, so it is possible.
  • jjv99jjv99 Member Posts: 33
    hmm.....how do u know your thermostat is ok, I mean, how did u rule it out? Have you check if your fan is being triggered at a temp. level below the middle of the car temp. meter (usually when it reaches a little above the first quarter of the meter)?
    Anyway, you need to make sure (check and rule out) the following (is better to use that order):
    - Leaks
    - radiator cap
    - fan (if it doesn't turn on, check fuse, the relay or the fan control module)
    - Check all coolant temp. switch:
    - Fan switch (should closed between 196 - 203 oF)
    - Coolant temp. gauge (the one that signals the meter in your console)
    - Coolant temp. sensor (which sends signals to your ECM)
    - water pump (maybe is not pumping with enough force...could be problems with its internal fins or maybe something else)
    - Radiator clogged.
    - Thermostat (Pellet type) (could be stuck semi-closed; which doesn't allow the coolant to flow freely into the engine).
    Hope this list helps you.
    Good Luck!
    J
  • mrgold35mrgold35 Member Posts: 73
    I had a similar problem on my 97 Accord with 115K on the ODO. The temp would rise on very hot days in stop/go traffic and stop lights. Everything would be fine driving above 30 mph. I changed the coolant, thermostat, and checked the water pump and I still had the same problem. Eventually, Honda tech narrowed the problem down to the A/C electric fan not pushing/pulling enough air across the radiator when the car was stopped. The fan looked like it was running normally; but it was only about 70% of normal speed. Replaced the fan, no problems in 2 ½ years. :)
  • dantheman3dantheman3 Member Posts: 14
    Strange one for everyone. Every once in a while when I need to move my Honda out of the garage for cleaning or whatever it runs for 30 - 45 seconds turn it off put it away and the next morning doesn't want to turn over. 104k miles new timing belt, new A/C, tuned to perfection. A honda "specilaist" mentioned a carbon problem when not allowed to warm up all the way. We did a thorough cleaning of the heads then 3 months later same thing. Anyone else having this issue? Suggestions. I can clutch start it if I get it going 5MPH.
  • jjv99jjv99 Member Posts: 33
    I guess I'm not sure when you refer to "...cleaning of the heads..." what component are you referring to?..spark plugs?

    When it doesn't turn on; what exactly are the sounds? Are all the lights in the console coming on? do you hear the relays closing? what about the gas pump? does it crank at all? does this happens no matter if it is cold or warm?....we need more details in order to know if we can help you.
  • seranikoseraniko Member Posts: 27
    pulled out the thermostat and tested it...might be a problem of the cooling fan not kicking in at the right temp.
    any easy way to check this?
  • dantheman3dantheman3 Member Posts: 14
    I meant carbon build up on the intake. Sorry for the mis communication. I had it towed to the Honda dealer 3 months ago when it first happened. They cleaned the carbon buildup off the intake. They mentioned it shouldn't happen anymore because the cleaning usually lasts years. Everything is charged up when I tried to start it last weekend. Lights worked, radio etc... just wouldn't crank. Had a distinct whine from the engine. This has only happened at a cold start. Running perfect now. Just worried this will happen again.
  • jjv99jjv99 Member Posts: 33
    Carbon build up in the intake could have impact in the quality of air (actually quantity of oxygen) that could reach your engine for later combustion. As you may know, low oxygen during combustion could cause the engine to misfire, idle problems or even the car dying after you drive it for sometime. But usually, Honda sensors and computer should be able to detect this by turning on the "check engine" light.....if you are able to pull out the codes; most of the times it will indicate where exactly is the problem (sensor problem, computer problem,etc).

    Now, as far as I know even if there is no oxygen at all; that shouldn't stop the starter to crank your engine... so I doubt that was the reason of the problem you are (or were =)) having.

    If your car doesn't crank at all then you have a electrical problem; now in your case seems to be random so it maybe some false contact somewhere (could be battery, ignition switch, main relay, or even a problem in the fuse box). Random problems are the most difficult to diagnose but not impossible. Usually mechanics, specially if they are not able to reproduce the problem will do whatever may help to improve the conditions but based only on whatever you told them. That is why it is very important to capture all the details about when the problem happened. A car that doesn't start is a too general description... but saying that the car doesn't crank at all then you can just focus in the ignition electrical circuit only.
    You could start checking the cables around your battery, check the charge and load of your battery (if you take it to autozone they will do it for free, call them to check)....if the problem is still happening I'll suggest to check your main relay (actually you don't need to buy a new one...I remember I have a link on how to do a maintenance of that relay but I need to look in what computer I have it).......Well...I hope all these info. helps you.
    Greetings
  • jjv99jjv99 Member Posts: 33
    The easiest way is to park your car outside (if it is hot and sunny will be better) and turn it on. Make sure the AC/Vent is off. Monitor your fan... it won't take more than 10 min. if the engine was still warm from a previous drive. As soon as the fan turns on, check the temp meter. If the temp is above the middle of the scale of the meter then you have a problem with the fan switch...but if the fan turns on, but the temp. continues to raise then you have a problem with the "force" of the fan, but it could also be the thermostat or the water pump.
    Hope this helps. Let us know what you found.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Any idea how easy it is to replace the light bulb that lights up my Automatic's gears on the console (not the dash indicator)? I'm referring to the bulb that lights this part up (the PRND4,D3,2,1):

    image\

    Mine is a 1996 LX Auto. Thanks!
  • frankiemfrankiem Member Posts: 1
    My 94 Honda Accord EX has 245,000 miles, runs great. 2 years ago it passed inspection but the NOX was at 996. Standard is 1006. Today it failed at 1987, almost double. Still running fine. HC and CO% readings perfect. Any help with fix to repair on my own????
  • vcarrerasvcarreras Member Posts: 247
    I was driving to work yesterday and I noticed the door locks unlocking and locking again within seconds. During time I "thought" I noticed the tac and speedometer go to zero. Well I drove home last night, no problems, but coming to work today about a mile from home it died! In trying to restart it would catch but immediely die again. I noticed that holding the switch in the start position the engine would run but when I let it go it would stall again. I got it towed to a Honda mechanic, not dealer and he stated immediately that it was a bad ignition switch. There is a "recall" on 1997-2002 Honda's for faulty ignition switch. I called Honda Customer Service and they stated my VIN number was not covered. The part costs $40 but with labor will cost $160. Anyone else had this problem??

    My Accord has been excellent, bought new 12/29/94 and now has 116K. Have had new CV joints, master brake cylinder and brake pads changed during that time.

    I also own a 2007 Honda FIT Sport which I love..I should say my wife loves, she won't let me drive it.. :cry:
  • jjv99jjv99 Member Posts: 33
    Everything indicates that the problem is your ignition switch based on what you've described; but the only thing that pays my attention is that a faulty ignition switch has nothing to do with your lock system (they are in different circuits....unless you have some security system installed that controls doors and the ignition of the car) and also, I have never seen an ignition switch dying suddenly (usually it starts failing little by little.
    I will suggest the following:
    - Its known that Honda accord ignition switch had a flaw for models of those years; and also that you could increase the switch to fail if you have too much weight in your key ring. Try cutting the "fat" of your key ring.
    - Try using a electrical contact cleaner. There is a post in this forum with the details on how to do it.
    - Check your alternator and battery. I have the suspicion that your alternator (and the voltage regulator) has failed and maybe the reason for that strange behavior of your electrical door lock is because of that (maybe some over voltage from the alternator which at the end has damage the ignition switch). If you found that this is what it happen then correct this first before changing anything (most probably there could be some other problems....maybe sensor that has been damaged).
    My Accord is the same model but a 95 and with 145k. I have never experience your problem but I have learned a lot of my electrical system due to a problem that so far no mechanic has been able to fix....it is a random problem.
    Let us know what you find. Good Luck!!
  • vcarrerasvcarreras Member Posts: 247
    My Accord does have a security system, dealer installed, that when the car is started the doors lock immediately. The car started having problems about a week ago when it took about three tries to start. But the real problem did not start until last Monday when I was washing it and the doors locked. The keys were inside but not in the ignition. I had to get my wifes keys to unlock it. I will have my Honda certified, but not dealer mechanic, check everything out this morning before I pick it up. I will let you know what he finds out. I just hope this is not the beginning of problems. It has been so dependable giving me 28-30mpg back and forth to work.
    Thanks..
  • dixeedixee Member Posts: 3
    1996 Honda Accord LX with some sort of electrical issues. For unknown reasons the doors lock/unlock, lock/unlock, lock/unlock repeatedly for a minute or so at a time. This can happen while driving, parked, etc. The ghost is locking and unlocking my doors to the point of killing my battery and alarm system.

    HELP!! Does anyone have any answers?
  • dridmangdridmang Member Posts: 10
    How often is the oxygen sensor suppose to be changed? I heard that pre 1985 cars are supposed to be changed every 30,000 miles and pre 1990 every 60,000 and pre 1996 are supposed to be changed every 100,000 miles.

    I get terrible gas mileage on my 1994 accord auto ex. Complete tune-up have been done along with a new catalytic converter and exhaust manifold. Are there any problems that can cause bad gas mileage getting 15 miles per gallon. Thanks
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    do you have a key fob? if so, leave it at home. use just your key. if the ghost goes away, you know where it lives (i mean haunts).

    if you don't have a key fob, my thinking is there is wire crimping to one of the doors, probably the drivers or front passengers for the lock/unlock, or possibly, there is a defective switch in one of those doors for same.
  • jjv99jjv99 Member Posts: 33
    Check the codes of your computer. Most of the times, the computer will detect any unusual readings from the sensors.
    Also take out your spark plug and check its condition ....I know that you have done a complete tune up but you never told us how was the state of the s.plugs. By checking its state (physical state of the electrodes...it is very important to take note of the color that you see) you could tell exactly what is the problem during combustion. Also, include all the details that has been done in your "complete tune up".
    Checking the state of the sensor is not difficult; but before concluding that the problem is your O.sensor; you need to check the following (these are the main reason why you could have a high fuel consumption):
    - Dirty or clogged air filter
    - wrong Ignition timing
    - Errors returned by the computer (also known as ECM).
    - Prob. in the fuel injection system (most of the times the ECM will detect problems with it also).
    - Low tire pressure
    - Fuel leak.
    - Emission system problems (the O.sensor check is part of this item)

    About changing the O.Sensor after certain number of miles it depends if you are rich or not....lol...just kidding. Usually the only components that you need to replace after certain number of miles without checking its state are the ones that if it fails could produce a bigger problem (i.e. timing belt) but the other components usually are changed just by inspection or if it is detected that there is a failure with it. Periodical inspection of your car after a certain number of miles its good (a must for older cars...specially axles, brake lines and engine).
    Good luck!
  • jjv99jjv99 Member Posts: 33
    The lock/unlock electrical circuit is not that complicated. You have a 2 way switch (lock/unlock positions) that are connected to a relay which at the same time feeds a solenoid or Actuator which is the one that does the actual physical job (all these components are inside your door). Now if you have a security system connected to your door system I'll recommend to disconnect it so you could isolate the problem (and check if the system works). Based on what you said, seems that you have a false electrical contact (which most probably is in your switch because mechanical parts usually fails first than electrical ones) so check that one first...specially the one from the driver; which usually is the most used. Hope you find your ghost :)
  • triccitricci Member Posts: 2
    Hello Dixee

    Our family has a Honda Accord 1994 with the same problem.
    I have just today, removed the door panel from the door that was making all the noise. I found that it is the door lock actuator that is the culprit. I don't know how to fix this actuator. I just know that when I disconnect the plug to it the noise and problem go away. I imagine I will have to purchase another door lock actuator and install it myself.

    The problem door we have is the right rear door. When you lock the door it makes a loud whining/buzzing sound. Then when you walk away, it continues, sometimes through the night.

    It is very annoying, so for now I'm just unplugging the power to that right rear door lock actuator.

    Sincerely,

    tricci
  • jjv99jjv99 Member Posts: 33
    Check the codes in your ECM (computer) after 30 min. of driving. Most of the times, sensors will work fine when engine is cold but could failed when engine gets warm.
    Also, provide more details (things that you have change before the test, tune ups, any changes to the EGR system, last time you change your catalityc converter).
    Anyway, NOX is produced when combustion temperatures exceed 2500 degrees Fahrenheit. EGR systems and cat.converter are systems created just to reduce the amount of NOX (and other gases) produced....so before changing anything in your EGR or cat.conv. you need to focus if your engine cooling system is working fine. I'll recommend to have somebody else repair it because in most of the states, the money u spent repairing this problem with a state certified mechanic counts against the min. limit they req.. For example in my state, the min. is 350, so if for some reason the mechanic is not able to repair the problem; the state will pass the emission test if you show them the receipt (needs to be from a certified mechanic from the state) of what you have spent. Hope this helps.
  • dixeedixee Member Posts: 3
    I'll try it without the key fob. However the alarm has been changed twice in the past year due to the ghost. The back passenger door had a faulty actuator that was supposed to be the cause of the ghost. The actuator was replaced but did not make the ghost disappear.

    How do you know this about the key fob?
  • triccitricci Member Posts: 2
    Hello Mistherd13

    I have the same problem with my 94 Accord.
    I took apart the door and removed the actuator. This took care of the problem. If you want to know if the actuator is any good, the answer is no. To save money, just unplug the power to the actuator inside the door. This will illiminate the problem of the on/off without touching anything and the awfull noise it makes. The only thing is you will have to manually lock/unlock that door.

    tricci
  • huckleberry1huckleberry1 Member Posts: 12
    I just bought a 96 EX 4door 4cyl. No check engine lights are on. Just wondering if the RPM range is normal. Going 70 I register about 2850 Rpm. 80mph about 3100.

    Is this normal?

    My thermostat stays about 2/3 of the way to half way.
  • natedeardorffnatedeardorff Member Posts: 17
    On my 97 LX, the driver-side window will skew a little bit while it goes up so that it will not go into the track when it is up all the way.

    does anyone know how to fix this?

    thanks guys.
  • natedeardorffnatedeardorff Member Posts: 17
    I think your rpms are pretty normal. I drove a 97 5sp EX and it was around 3K at 80 mph.

    I dont think you should have anything to worry about.
  • huckleberry1huckleberry1 Member Posts: 12
    Wondering if I have a bigger problem now.
    I took my Accord in to get the freon recharged because it was not cooling fast enough, easy fix right? Wrong.
    Shop tells me I need a new radiator fan motor as it's not keeping the pressure where it needs to be ($289) I decided to get one aftermarket and have a buddy put it on to save a couple hundred bucks. They ask me if I want to leave the freon they just put in the car , I said sure.
    When I drove home I start hearing this clunking sound coming from the right side of my dash. And hear a purging relief value spewing all that I can think of is freon from under my hood. I take it back and they said once I get a new radiator fan I should be ok...
    Finally my question is, could they have messed up something by filling it up with freon when the radiator fan was not working at full capacity or is it no big deal?
  • djsg143djsg143 Member Posts: 20
    :) Hello everyone.

    My 96 accord has recently been vibrating at stops...it the same kinda vibration that happens when the ac cycles, but I don't have the ac on. Any ideas?

    Also on a smaller note, I turned off my radio for an extended period of time, thinking it needed charge time since I always play music while driving :shades: only to hear a weird groan while turning hard . Sounds like when you pull into the driveway in a tight angle...maybe the body isn't as still as it used to be but I don't recall hearing it as often as I do now. Any idead? thanks alot you guys
  • jjv99jjv99 Member Posts: 33
    I'm not an expert on AC but I know something on the theory on how it works. The sound most probably is coming from the Evaporator that is located under the passenger side dash. The Evaporator is were the freon (in accord 95 and after is used R135A) will change from a high pressure gas (actually should be in liquid state and most probably hot) and change into a low pressure line (were it becomes into gas). This change in pressure needs to be compensated with heat (if you like physics you may find the details of it pretty interesting); which the Evaporator will end up absorbing it from the car's cab.
    Now here comes my guess; because they introduce more freon and expecting the pressure to go up; they introduce more gas than expected which is not a problem because you are planning to change your compressor anyway(I guess that is what you meant with "radiator fan motor ")....but in normal systems; overcharging your system will most probably mess up your compressor.
    So answering your question; I believe they are right when they said that the sound will dissapear when you change your compressor; but before doing that I'll suggest to check for leaks in your system...check all the lines, hoses and also evaluate changing the Accumulator (with a new one and not a used one) which its main objective is to protect the compressor (avoids that liquid freon gets into the compressor).
    Hope this helps.
  • jjv99jjv99 Member Posts: 33
    I guess I may need to hear the sound to tell you what exactly is the problem; but seems it could be associated with your 2nd question.....I think you have a problem in your driveaxle....have you check your driveaxle boot? or the state of your driveaxle? but definitely the sound you hear when turning in a tight angle is coming from your driveaxle.
    The vibration could also be related (maybe your driveaxle are to a near end...who knows) or also could be a worn lower ball joints, or tie-rod ends or any hard rubber used in your steering system. The only way somebody could diagnostic your car is by having a visual inspection of all the components I mentioned. Greetings
  • mehmetmehmet Member Posts: 1
    I have 98 Accord. I bought EGR valve from a dealer in Ohio in Feb. 06. But in less than 6 months (July 06),car failed in emission test in Georgia. Although original parts seem to have one year warranty, Honda service also charged me for the second EGR valve plus $250 labor in less than 6 months.
  • djsg143djsg143 Member Posts: 20
    Thanks for the reply,

    The groans take place in the rear passenger side ....like a slow creak, groan....I even though it might be my exhaust (aftermarket)

    the vibrations make me think it is either an engine mount issue, a tranny issue, or an exhaust issue....you can literally see the steering wheel vibrate at a stoplight....and feel it underneath you.
  • jjv99jjv99 Member Posts: 33
    yeah...now I understand u better. Definitely somebody needs to inspect all the rubbers used in your suspension, steering system and the mounts of the engine. All those rubbers absorbs the vibration that comes from your engine and tranny. If everything is fine, then check the engine timing...when is not well synchronize you may expect some unusual vibrations which are more notice when the car is stop. Good luck
  • regatoregato Member Posts: 1
    a friend of mine asked me to help her with the a/c of her car she has a accord 95 ex v6 and i need to now where is de expansion valv and the drier on that car because i never worked on it and i dont want to serch like crazy arround the car.

    thanks
  • natedeardorffnatedeardorff Member Posts: 17
    Does anyone know what might cause the oil temp gauge to not work?

    mine is stuck about 1/4 of the way towards the red.

    Also, whenever I turn my vents on--hot or cold, I get a squeak. Does anyone know what might cause this?

    thanks.

    ND
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Does anyone know what might cause the oil temp gauge to not work?

    Just to clarify, that is not an oil temperature gauge, but instead is the coolant temperature. You have no oil temperature gauge in the car. The only thing on the dash that refers to the oil is the low-oil pressure warning light; you should see it come on briefly when cranking your car each time.

    I don't know why the needle would be stuck there, maybe a thermostat problem? It's apparent you have either a cooling problem or thermostat problem if the needle went that high in the first place.

    I don't know where your squeak would be coming from I'm afraid, and I realize I'm not much help, but I wish you the best of luck!

    thegrad
    96 LX Sedan, 165,000 miles.
  • blkhonda97blkhonda97 Member Posts: 1
    When driving in slow traffic or idling, my temp gauge starts to go up and near the red zone. It will go real high, then start to come down on its own, alternating between both. When I get home the radiator fan comes on like it should, but the Fan relay clicks on and off turning the radiator fan on and off multiple times. Before I had the problem, the fan would go on for about 5-10 mins, then shut off like it should. Do you think the problem is with the Radiator Fan relay or the Coolant switch sensor. I replaced the radiator, fan switches and thermostat about 3 years ago, so I don't think they are the issue. Can anyone help. Thanks.
  • jjv99jjv99 Member Posts: 33
    Read message #424
    I'll suggest to check again the components that you have change recently (why did you change them original? because you were having the same problem??). Also, I know is possible to check if a sensor is working fine or not; you will need an multimeter to do that but don't have the electrical specifications maybe you could google them. Based on my experience, the component that most commonly fails are (in that order) is the thermostat, water pump, radiator clogged or leaks present, then comes the sensors and switches.
    I'll try to get the info on how to check those components; but I'm pretty sure you can find them in the internet.
    Good luck
  • mamamia2mamamia2 Member Posts: 707
    Last week I cleaned up my office and found the book. I bought it years ago. It's for the '94-97 Accord. I have no use for it anymore, since I sold the car 7 months ago.

    Have no idea if it's still easilly available at auto-part stores... But before trashing it (or rather tossing it in the recycle bin) -- is there someone who'd be interested in it?
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