Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Honda Accord (1994-1997) Maintenance and Repair

1111214161737

Comments

  • natedeardorffnatedeardorff Member Posts: 17
    Hey does anyone know if you are suppose to have the clutch fluid changed, and if so, at what milage?

    I have a 97 LX with 151k miles and I dont believe the fluid has been replaced.

    thanks.
  • mamamia2mamamia2 Member Posts: 707
    Use Rain-X Anti-Fog -- the interior, black bottle version. It will totally prevent the fogging of your windows.

    You may NOT want to use it on your WINDSHIELD, though, 'cause it may have some visibilty issues when driving at night.
  • tankbeanstankbeans Member Posts: 585
    Thanks to both mamamia and grad for the tips. I will certainly try these out. I would never have thought to turn on the "regular" heater in place of the defrost. Also, I didn't even think there was such a chemical for preventing fog on the interior windows.

    So once again thank you two for the help.
  • chucko3chucko3 Member Posts: 793
    Check the P/S fluid and the tension of the P/S belt.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I'd do it at 30K miles or every 2-3 years. yes, you should change it, as it does gunk up over time.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Well, the "regular" ventilation mode does nothing but redirect the air that would normally blow on the windshield, at least in the 1994-1997 models. If you have the system set to properly defog the windshield, it will properly defog the other windows if set to blow on them.

    Glad we could help!
  • tankbeanstankbeans Member Posts: 585
    I don't know if I'm talking in circles or what, but how to you set them to blow at the windshield as well as at the other windows. Is there a way to have multiple have the defrost on and "regular" ventilation at the same time.

    Confused. Thank you anyway for the tip. If you could clarify that a little more it would be great. You seem to know a lot about cars. I have come to visit this site fairly often when it comes to small issues going with my car. Once again thanks for all the help.
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    if you want to defrost your windows, i think turning the fan speed to high and temp all the way to the red extent (heat) and pressing the defrost button will:
    send heated air to the windshield and the side windows
    turn on the AC
    set the system to recirculate off
  • autoboy16autoboy16 Member Posts: 992
    How should I go about a tune up of a 1995 accord v6? The engine is misfiring at idle and at takeoff. I suppose it is spark plugs. What should I do??!!

    -Cj
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    pressing the defrost button will:
    send heated air to the windshield and the side windows
    turn on the AC
    set the system to recirculate off


    Not true on the 1994-1997 models. This feature debuted in 1998. In the pre-1998 models, you must manually select fresh air and manually activate the A/C.
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    oops, thanks for the clarification.

    i thought my '94 did the same. my mistake. anyway, i thought that was the optimal setup to clear the front windshield so i thought i'd enumerate them.

    it seems counter-intuitive to run the AC but it works.

    also i find situations in freakish downpours also benefit from the AC remaining on to keep the front glass clear.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    it seems counter-intuitive to run the AC but it works.


    yes, the air conditioner dehumidifies the air, keeping moisture off the windows!
  • tankbeanstankbeans Member Posts: 585
    I'm probably getting annoying with my dumb questions, but once in a while I will have an issue where the key will not turn in the driver's side door. Sometimes the key won't even go into the lock. However, on the other passenger side lock it works just fine. Does this mean that I may have to replace my locks or is there something that can be done about it?

    I don't know if anybody else has this problem periodically or if I shouldn't worry about it. If anybody doesn't know I have a 95 EX.

    Thank you for any reply.
  • tallman1tallman1 Member Posts: 1,874
    It depends... try some WD-40 or graphite for locks and see if it helps. It may just need some lubrication.
  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Member Posts: 823
    It's also good to run the A/C once in a while during the winter to keep the seals lubricated in the compressor.

    Mrbill
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    oh yeah good point.
  • tankbeanstankbeans Member Posts: 585
    Thank you for the tip. I just bought a bottle for other things and this helps a lot.
  • accord95exaccord95ex Member Posts: 7
    I have the same problem but at the passenger side, one of my keys works only on the driver side and the other one on both!, I'll try to lubricate it and see how it goes.
    95-Accord-EX
  • jagermeistajagermeista Member Posts: 1
    I don't know too much about cars, so if anybody could give me some help, it would be greatly appreciated. I drive a 1995 Honda Accord EX. and just recently sicne we had that big (only) snowstorm in New England the other day, my engine and the steering wheel seems to be shaking once I put the car in 5th gear. I was just wondering, could it be the cold weather, is this a common problem, is it not a big deal, or should I get it checked out? Please help. Thank you.
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    check to see if a chunk of ice and snow has grafted itself onto one of the wheels.

    if people drive through mud, same issue.

    some sticks: significant enough amount to throw wheel balancing off and car shakes at certain speed range.

    hopefully, that is your problem.
  • haccord97v6haccord97v6 Member Posts: 2
    I recently inherited my moms 97 accord ex v6 and after driving it for a few weeks it is getting me around 23 miles per gallon on gas. I am not very happy with this because i am used to the 29 miles per gallon i used to get in my 96 accord lx v6. I am planning on getting the tune up per the ext. warrantee that honda offers but wanted to ask if anyone has any other ideas why such a big difference in these 2 cars. My parents bought this car new and i have all the service records on it. It currently has around 94k on it my 96 accord has around 139k. Anyway if i need to post more info here just let me know. Thanks for any help.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    I can't figure out why they would be so different, assuming conditions are the same for both. Do what you talked about, get a tune up. New spark plugs, air filter, etc... should help matters a lot, especially if these havent been done in a long time. I went from 22 MPG to 24 MPG years ago after getting new spark plugs and an air filter change after over 60,000 miles since the previous ones were fixed. Not sure that your mileage will go up 6 MPG (especially since the sticker on this car tops out at 26 MPG - 23 MPG sounds pretty good in mixed driving conditions, especially in our deep, cold, winter.
  • ak2001ak2001 Member Posts: 1
    Hi
    Recently after driving a long distance I started experiencing problem like the engine is not stable.AS per the advise of the mechanic changed sparc plugs,sparc plugs cables and even the petrol filter, still there is no change.Iam getting sound like an aeroplane from engine. Not getting even MIL indication.
    The car is Honda accord of 96 make.
    Iam planning to take it Honda show room for Engine tuning before that I want any good sujjestions and tips from any u.
    Thanks and regards :confuse:
  • amandaakersamandaakers Member Posts: 4
    I've had my used honda for about 8 months now, and I've already done so many things for it. I had to repair a couple of oil leaks and I had to get a new muffler. But now I seem to have a bigger problem.

    I drive a 1996 Honda Accord EX V6

    When I drive for about thirty minutes, going the same speed, my RPM meter starts going up and down. It's orginally at 2 and then it shoots down to 1 and then finally, when it reaches 0 it jerks kinda bad. It freaks me out a little. I've asked soooo many people about this and they have given me a few answers. They think it's my ignition coil. But it don't think so. I need help! I have no knowledge about cars WHATSOEVER!! Please help.

    Thank you! :cry: :sick:
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Read this link, and see if any of this sounds familiar to your problem. good luck

    http://techauto.te.funpic.org/vss.php

    Two questions, does the cruise control work? and is the Check Engine Light on?
  • mamamia2mamamia2 Member Posts: 707
    HEY, I HAVE SOME GOOD NEWS FOR YA....I hope.....

    If you have less than 150,000 miles on the odometer, you're probably eligible for the famous Accord SPECIAL RECALL... Do a search here about service bulletin 98-081. Your car is probably covered by this special recall. Your problem is probably the Speed Sensor and your Distributor Cap. And you should get it fixed FOR FREE!...

    Take your car to the nearest Honda dealership and tell them to check about this special service bulletin 98-081... You may be able to get a PDF copy of this bulletin by doing some Google search.

    Not only this, you're also elligible for a FREE tune up at 75,000 and 150,000 miles.
  • amandaakersamandaakers Member Posts: 4
    No, my check engine light isn't on and my cruise control does work. It's so weird. I've even asked a honda mechanic in my town and he said it might be my spark plugs. But I got new ones, but they aren't honda quality. I think I should check to see if my cap and my speed sensor are broken. I would do the recall but I have 160,000 miles. So yea, it sucks. Thanks for your HELP! :)
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Since your cruise control works, I suspect the igniter, or something distributor related. If it happens again, check for spark, and fuel.

    Another thing you may want to check is, if your car was included in the ignition switch recall. When the ignition switch is bad, the engine will seemingly start, then die as soon as you release the key.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    My Honda dealer goodwilled my Oxygen Sensor at 168,000 miles (1996 Accord LX 4-cylinder). I threw a Check Engine Light, caused by the O2 sensor, and because they knew that stuff was problematic (I think it may have been replaced around 80,000 miles) they installed it at no charge for either parts OR labor. Free.

    Just a thought, since you are so close to being covered in the warranty, they may help you out too if that turns out to be part of the problem.
  • djsg143djsg143 Member Posts: 20
    Hello everyone,

    I am fighting the good fight: keeping my 96 lx running (now 159k).

    Recently however I've noticed my rpm at a stoplight vary. Sometimes good around 700 rpms, other times it'll be at 4-500 rpm.

    I was ok with that,but more recently right after I start my car and shift into gear (R or D) the revs sometimes drops significantly, one time to 200 rpm and one time the engine shut off.

    Also not sure if it related, but when I accelrate and release the pedal, the rpms drop normally and othertimes they drop from 2800 to 1500 , shift gears , and then they're back up to normal rpm range.

    Oh I have an automatic.

    Please help I tried pcv valve, air intake, I used a cleaning spray for the throttle body. :confuse:
  • mamamia2mamamia2 Member Posts: 707
    When my (sold since) '95 Accord V6 had this problem, what was going crazy was the SPEEDOMETER needle, not the RPM needle. And the car was slightly BUCKING at high speed. No "check engine" light, though. Replacing the Speed Sensor and Distribution Cap fixed it all. I think I paid about $450 to my local guy, then I found out about the special recall -- and got reimbursed by Honda.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Read back a couple of pages, this has just been covered. Here's the VSS (vehicle speed sensor) link again. It may be covered by an extended warranty, so check that out too. Hope you solve the problem.

    http://techauto.te.funpic.org/vss.php
  • djsg143djsg143 Member Posts: 20
    I went to honda for the recall work. I have to double check the invoice but they should have automatically replaced that right?

    I was with him when he replaced my distributor and spark plug wires...not sure if he did the VSS.

    What do I do now? :cry:
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Find out for sure. Duh. :confuse:
  • djsg143djsg143 Member Posts: 20
    Nope, they never replaced the VSS.

    Now I remember how they were trying to get me to pay for the parts they were installing as part of the service bulletin

    I had issue with it and I guess they got around it by not replacing the part.

    So do you think I can take it to another dealership to get the VSS replaced? If not how hard is it to replace. I hear it is located beneath the thermostat housing.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Click on the link I posted. It has pictures, and all the details.
  • neeper_97neeper_97 Member Posts: 20
    I had the service bulletin done on my 97 Accord Ex and 2 years later my speedometer stopped working. After I changed it, I found out on this site that it should have been replace during the service bulletin. I took my car back to the same Honda dealer with the receipt for the new VSS and a copy of the bulletin showing them that they should have replaced it. They then changed it and reset the computer to turn off the check engine light, it stayed on after I changed the VSS. You should do the same or if you feel uncomfortable with that Honda dealership go to a different one.
  • mamamia2mamamia2 Member Posts: 707
    djsg143, if the work was done BEFORE the car hit the 150,000 on the odometer, you were eligible for a FREE service, if it was covered by that bulletin. And you were eligible for a FREE TUNE UP.

    Since your dealer has been trying to play funny games, before going back to him, or any other dealership, I would call Honda first, discuss it with them, let them call the dealership and give them instructions.

    The Speed Sensor, btw, is right next to (or even attached to) the Distributor Cap, at least it was on my '95 Accord V6.
  • 2fast12fast1 Member Posts: 1
    hi there,
    Have you had any reply's to your problem? I have a similar problem if not the same. My Honda accord 94 manual has been parked up for some time and the battery was dead. tried to swap the battery but as soon as i connect it the standard honda alarm keeps going off. I aslo have an aftermarket alarm fitted but have disarmed that. Someone told me to reset the fuse for the standard alarm, i found that but it hasn't reset. No matter what i do i can't start it with the alarm going off. If you have found a solution then i would appreciate any advice.
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    this may help. i saw a reference to the auto alarming with the battery removed with the alarm still armed on page 18, which i think is your scenario.

    anyway, perhaps this has the info you seek.
    https://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/pubs/AU/AAM32039.pdf
  • haccord97v6haccord97v6 Member Posts: 2
    My accord makes a humming sound after it has been driven and is sitting in my garage. This is happening when the car is not running. It seems like when i loosen the gas cap this sound stops. It seems that the gas cap is sealing tight because it make a sound like pressure is being relieved when i loosen it. Any ideas? I am getting crappy gas mileage and i am thinking maybe the fuel pump? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
  • cardude88cardude88 Member Posts: 3
    I just bought a 94 Accord Ex a couple months ago, it's got the four cylinder engine and an automatic transmission, I love the car but the problem is I'm only averaging about 18 mpg :cry: when I was expecting to get high 20's out of it! ANY ideas on how I can remedy this? ANYONE else had the same problem? I'm really hoping that there's something I can do to fix this and that it's not just the way the car is. It's my first car and I got it over a truck or SUV because I wanted to save $$$ on gas! :mad: PLEASE HELP! THANKS
  • tallman1tallman1 Member Posts: 1,874
    It's going to be tough for anyone to respond because we don't know your driving style, city/highway driving breakdown, typical length (short drives don't allow the engine to warm this giving very poor mileage) etc.
  • accord95exaccord95ex Member Posts: 7
    I get the same millage as well, exactly 18 mpg in city, I asked my mechanic and he said its not normal, mine is Accord 95 EX,I bought it 2 months ago.

    Based on what I've read in forums it could be Spark plugs , wires, O2 Sensor or fuel injector parts.

    I've also tried premium gas to see if it helps, I'll post the result when I fill up the gas next time.

    Please post if you get any update as well.
  • mamamia2mamamia2 Member Posts: 707
    You mpg will always be significantly lower in the winter, especially in a cold winter... It might not be the only issue you have, but it sure "helps" with lowering your gas mileage. Especially if you drive short distances.
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    if i bought a used car and was questioning the mileage i was getting, first thing i would do is check tire inflation pressure and cleanliness of the engine air filter. putting air in your tires (i like running mine close to sidewall pressure) and a new filter (check if yours is dirty) cost: your car maybe $9.00-$12.00.

    next upon next empty tank, have with you 1 bottle of injector cleaner. pour that in, then fill the tank.

    how many miles on the car? 80K or more? i'd have new honda recommended plugs put in - they affect mileage.

    now mamamia2 is correct...everyone get's lower mileage in the winter, and the winter formulation of fuel i think is part of the reason.

    finally, do not judge the fuel efficiency of the vehicle based on city tripping. too many variables including driving style impact what you get vs. someone else. for example, the same car in downtown New York City isn't going to get the same city mileage as in releigh / durham NC.

    fill the tank, reset the odometer, go for a 300mi or so drive on the highway at about 60-65, stop and re-fill and divide miles on the trip OD by gallons pumped for a HWY estimate.
  • mamamia2mamamia2 Member Posts: 707
    User777 has very good ideas. And as to your MPG, the ONLY way to really check any car's gas-mileage in the "real world" is just that, take it for a LONG drive, on a dry day, keeping it at a consistent speed -- the best is actually 55-60 -- use the cruise control, maybe, and do the math...

    On another forum (a Sonata forum) an Indiana owner of a V6 Sonata with the 3.3L engine was commuting to work every day, driving about 250 miles. He decided to challenge us all with his gas mileage... For a month he kept driving at 55mph, no A/C in mid summer(...) and got 35-36.5 mpg...

    Nice, ha?
  • tallman1tallman1 Member Posts: 1,874
    I have a '95 EX I-4, 5 speed manual with over 220k miles. When I bought my new Accord about a year ago, I gave my son my '95. I'm not sure how he is doing but my mileage was always in the high 20's/low 30's with combined driving. So for my driving style, 18 mpg would not be acceptable.
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    is that an I4 5-spd, V6-5spd, or I4 AT, or V6AT you just purchased?
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    *Just a technical note - the V6 is a 6-speed manual, not a 5-speed as in the 4-cylinder manuals. Just a heads up in case you didn't know. :);)
Sign In or Register to comment.