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Comments
With the radiator cold, you should refill both the radiator and the overflow tank....and watch it for the next 500 miles to make sure you don't have another occurence where the antifreeze level drops.
You need to be on the lookout for either a leak in the coolant system (radiator, hoses, waterpump, etc), or a blown headgasket in the engine. The headgasket could cause antifreeze to be lost into either the engine oil, or out the exhaust (both bad situations). Check your engine oil level with the dipstick, to make sure it isn't over the top fill line....and make sure it's clear/black oil (not creamy).
Goodluck
PJ
Is your D4 light flashing or staying on (when it shouldn't be)? It could be a shift solenoid that's stuck too. Has the fluid ever been changed? How many miles? Have you been having problems with it before this happened?
at this point i had left my car to go somewhere and i came back and my car wouldnt start.
well my D4 is flashing and i dont know why and the car turns over.
i know it cant be the:starter,distributor, alternator, or any belts because i just replaced all of them and they are all brand new :sick:
any suggestions???
it also to me seems like im getting very bad gas mileage im getting something lik 15-16. and for a sedan i found that to be surprising.
it just seems like this car might be a lemon :lemon:
http://techauto.bravehost.com/
However, the car is running hotter. Specifically, the temp gauge before I had the radiator and thermostat replaced was always at 4pm, no matter the load or weather. Now, the gauge goes up to just before 3pm above 50 mph or if I use the A/C. Also, the cooling fan goes off more often. The 3pm position is ok per the owner’s manual. The shop I took it to has double-checked the cooling system and they said to let me know if it goes above 3pm. They also confirmed the new parts meet Honda specifications. Am I being overly concerned? :confuse:
Thank you
only95k
I went on-line and purchased a used Japanese Accord tranny w/ less than 30,000 miles for $595+shipping and mailed the tranny to a local mechanic to put it in for a total cost of $1100. It has been +7 months and the car feels even better than before. This was the only major problem I’ve had with this car other than A/C condenser cooling fan going out twice.
http://www.asapmotors.com/used-transmissions-honda-c-249_262.html?zenid=805f705c0003ce1b6627d699ab7c8788
Note, you may want to do it while driving and hold it in for a little bit if it doesn't work the first time.
What could be a problem?
thanks
shadingding
Battery and no start different issue, check your cables and wiring.
Suggest you look at VSS.
Go to http://techauto.tripod.com/ and check VSS.
If you need a VSS don't get ripped off by over priced.
Look at http://www.doctorautoparts.com/sites/drAutoParts/index.cfm
$45.00 VS advance auto and others $100 plus for same part.
VSS will give check engine light
P0500--VSS Circuit Malfunction (M/T)
P0501--VSS Circuit Range/Performance (A/T)
thanks again.
sdd
96 EX 4 cyl vtec 169K miles
I've got a belt that sqeals at engine start and when the AC compressor first engages. After a short warm up, the belt quits sqealing when the compressor engages.
I've inspected the belt and it looks fine. I then tried to adjust the alternator to tighten the belt. Per my Haynes repair manual, I loosened the pivot bolt at the back of the alternator and then turned the adjustment bolt at the bottom of the alternator . If I did lefty-loosey, of course, the adjustment bolt loosened but that didn't seem right. So I did righty-tighty and leaned on it hard. I re-tightend the pivot bolt. I still have the sqeal.
The tension on the belt seems about right, per the manual (3/8 - 1/2"). But if it sqeals it must be too loose, right?
Is there something else I can check or is my alternator adjustment technique incorrect?
Sorry for the long post and thanks in advance.
Brian
There is a loose bolt on alternator causing no charge on battery.
thanks.
sdd
- the belt is too loose
- the belt is worn
- the compressor is bad and putting too much of a load, which is impossible for any belt to turn it.
If it was my vehicle, I would replace the belt as they are relatively cheap, and as such would eliminate the first two of these problems. If the squealing continues with the new belt, suspect air conditioning compressor concerns.
1 - This probably technically belongs in the 90-93 forum since you have a '92 (though your problem is general).
2 - Are there any codes?
3 - (not incredibly important) Unless you have a very special '92 you actually don't have a carburetor, it's FI.
4 - Possibly engine coolant temp. sensor or something else operating temperature related?
5 - Can you hear the click of the main relay and the engaging of the fuel pump when there is a no start condition?
You basically only need fuel, spark, and compression to start a car so it has to be one of these areas.
Here is a website that takes a lighthearted approach at giving you a trouble tree to run through.
No go ;(
My car is not FI- actually my car is a Honda 1992 - 1993 Accord EX 2.2L, 4 Cylinder..and it has indeed a carburetor, located exactly where the air filter is
#5..yes and I can hear the click of the main relay
Edmunds agrees. Here's an excerpt from their "Model History" of the Accord, this particular section speaks about the 1990 model. (Skip to the last paragraph).
**********
Home > Honda > Accord
Honda Accord History
1990-1993
The 1990 Accord was completely revamped, inside and out. The fourth-generation Accord grew in size, power and popularity (in fact, the Accord was the best-selling car in America for three years in a row, 1990-1992.) The hatchback was dropped, leaving a notchback coupe and a four-door sedan as available choices. Wheelbase was increased by nearly 5 inches (now 107.1 inches), and weight went up, though even the heaviest Accord, the EX four-door, still weighed less than 3000 pounds. Styling in and out was very clean and purposeful, with a low beltline, large greenhouse (window area) and slim roof pillars that minimized blind spots. The uncluttered and chiseled appearance of the '90 Accord gave an overall impression of quality and solidity. This notion was confirmed when one simply hopped in the car and shut the door or turned a knob to put on the headlights. Doors shut with a solid "thunk" and switchgear had a precise and satisfying action.
In keeping with Honda's logical system of offering a few versions of each car with increasing standard features (as opposed to the American car makers' philosophy of offering a confusing array of options and option packages), three trim levels were available. One could choose a basic DX, a well-equipped LX (which, as before, had power windows/locks/mirrors, cruise control, A/C and a decent stereo cassette all standard) or the top-shelf EX (which added a power moonroof, alloy wheels and 5 more horsepower to an LX).
On the mechanical side, carburetors were history, as fuel injection was made standard on all Accords. The new 2.2-liter engine pumped out 125 horsepower in DX and LX trims, and 130 horses in the EX. Other changes included electronic control for the automatic transmission and motorized front shoulder belts (the latter to satisfy government safety requirements).
**********
The link to this page is here
http://religion.p5.org.uk/techauto/mainrelaydefine.html Do these systems apply to you? The main relay controls the fuel pump. If you live in a hot climate where the temperature is 90F/34C and the cabin temp is high, check out the main relay. The two words in your post that caught my attention are "tropical and humidity" Hope this helps
As far as carbs go, yes the page does have info for non-FI vehicles but that doesn't mean that his 92 has a carb. If you notice, in the same paragraph you get when you follow the green "carb" arrow it specifies that the location is for second generation accords. 90-93 is third gen.
Anyway, good link at least.
As a frequent traveler I remember seeing carbureted autos in europe in the early 90s. Do you reside outside of the U.S.? In any case, if your mechanic says you have a carbureator look at the fuel pump.
Regards
Corkscrew
You are right, no carbs after 1989 for US Accords (the 2.2L was the only engine, and its fuel injected.)
But, the 1990-1993 is the fourth generation.
PS: If the car is an automatic, is it difficult to get the shift position lever out of park? Or more likely in this case, will it move out of park, without pressing the brake pedal. This could confirm some things.
One more note. The transmission seems to work fine, but my mechanic noticed the car is a bit slow to get into gear. Is this a sign of trouble ahead soon? The transmission fluid looks fine.
I have a 1996 Accord with 174k miles on it and it costs about $300 a year to keep running (only about one repair a year).
The transmission is nothing to worry about if it is shifting fine up through the gears. He's probably used to a different car. Mine takes a second or more sometimes to get into gear.
The 4-cylinder Accords from this (and the previous) generation (1990-1997) are just incredibly bulletproof. I have honestly never heard of a transmission problem out of a car like ours. As for exhaust, shocks, and brakes, well, that's something that won't need fixing again for another long period of time - its just maintenance. I actually have the original shocks/struts on my car.
Let me ask you though, have you had the timing belt replaced already? If not, you should have at 90,000 miles.
Any relation to Dances w/Wolves?
How much should I expect to pay for an Auto-Transmission flush?
(not that it matters, but I'm asking about my 1996 4-cyl Accord).
So, i hate to go back there.
On a college student budget (working part time), $200 is huge.
So, it really doesn't cost much to me in actuality. There are a lot more details that would explain my family's rationale for me having the main access to two cars, but I have neither the time nor energy tonight!
That car has been in my family since Nov. 1995, so it is long paid for. I just keep it running, and they keep it insured. We also keep it because I am cheaper to insure in that car than my 2006 Accord (which will be my primary car after college - my parents promised a new car if I got a full ride to college. I delivered, and they did too).
Instead of selling the '96, at the time, it was our third car in the family of three. My parents recently moved across the country (Birmingham to Oklahoma City) and now have moved back to Alabama, to Gulf Shores. They didn't want to drive the '96 across the country, but now, I imagine they'll take the '96 away soon. They currently are using just one car, their Atomic 2007 Civic EX Sedan.
That's the short version.
I'm outta here, good night blufz and everyone else!