Honda Accord (1998-2002) Maintenance and Repair

accord_97 · October 2007

hey bro, i have a similar issue. how was it resolved? its so annoying to hear that noise.

caryak · October 2007

Does anyone know what sensors/connectors are on the back of the 4 Cyl. engine for a 99 Honda Accord? Especially the one that's about 1" square? It's on the very back of the engine, underneath the plenum. :confuse:

user777 · October 2007

Idea: my experience with a 94 suggests a relay's contacts can and will go bad. I had an issue with the fans running all the time after the car was turned off.

so i opened the fuse/relay box in the engine compartment and pulled and swapped an equivalent numbered relay for the passenger power window (check, yours may be the same as well) and when I swapped with the relay for the fans, voila that fixed the problem. then I went to Autozone for a replacement relay for the broken one. about $23 if I recall correctly.

hope it helps.

Some times, a circuit pulling a good deal of current will cause relay contacts to partially weld together because of electrical arcing and localized heating / melting, and/or build up of carbon from arcing cycles.

notthereyet · October 2007

Good Idea, but no luck on my side. I swapped the relays and they all allow the fans to run. The Condenser fan relay - when removed individually- will stop the fans. The Cooling fan relay -when removed individually- allows the fans to run. I am not sure of what to check from this point forward.

All fuses fine. Coolant in radiator is full. Individually removing the thermostat or Electronic Coolant Temp sensor (ECT?), allow the fans to run. As mentioned earlier, all A/C and vent operations are off. Also, the fans do not run when the car is off.

Thanks for the electric explanation. It allowed me to check a few other things, but to no avail.

Open to further suggestions.

Thanks very much for your good ideas.

elroy5 · October 2007

The fan timer is probably bad. Check that. There may be some information about it in this link. http://techauto.awardspace.com/overheating.html
Good luck

kiawah · October 2007

If you get me a set of electrical schematics for your vehicle, I'll help shoot this bug. I don't personally have any of the Honda schematics.

I think alldatadiy.com covers Hondas that old, if you want to sign up for a subscription.

tbloom · October 2007

I have a V6 with 96k on it. Check engine light has been on and code shows EGR valve. I had it cleaned to no avail and I have now replaced it and I still get the same light and code. I also get the TCS light coming on intermittently. What should be done?

jeney · October 2007

EGR valve under warranty
Did you know the EGR valve has an extended warranty? I have a 2001 V-6 accord and needed the EGR valve replaced. I paid over $200 and then went home and looked over paperwork I had received from Honda in the past and found out the EGR warranty was extended. I called the dealer and after a bit of hassle I got the full price of labor and parts refunded for the EGR valve.

stevefsu · October 2007

I have a manual 02 accord v-4 with about 90K miles on it & recently the check engine light came on & i got it checked out & was told i need a new a/f sensor & evap solenoid. The guy just said it was for emissions & it wouldn't affect my car. Anyway of course now it's a week later & my cars acceleration just isn't there anymore. I'll step on the gas & the rpms will go up but the car accelerates slower than ever & also after i change gears for a split second the gas i'm giving it doesn't take & the rpms shoot up. Can anyone help me with this, is the a/f sensor & evap solenoid causing this or do you think there could be something else??? I don't want to take my car back to this guy if he doesn't know what he's talking about & those are messing up the car or if he just missed something completly....Thanks again for any help, i really appreciate it.

austinman7 · November 2007

My 2000 4 cyl. manual tranny coupe (about 160,000 miles) just recently developed a rattle coming from where the top of the dashboard meets the windshield, in the far corner on the driver's side.

It doesn't seem to rattle at lower speeds, but when out on the highway, it's very sensitive and rattles noticeably at little imperfections in the pavement.

I reached over there, and I'm pretty sure I can feel a jittery something just below the dash surface, and when I put a little pressure on it, the rattle pretty much goes away.

Am I describing something any of you have encountered, and fixed?

I would be most grateful for any advice. Thanks.

robmcar · November 2007

2001 Honda Accord EX V6  The check engine light turns on for extended periods, the computer error code listed a problem with the EGR Valve. I replaced it. However, the check engine light is still on with the same error code. Additionally, the TCS light turns on intermittently. Could it be a problem with the MAP Sensor?

elroy5 · November 2007

Trouble codes point to a specific system (EGR/TCS), and not to a specific part. Some trouble-shooting will be required to find out which part is actually causing the code. The EGR code could be just clogged ports, but then it could also be wiring or vacuum hoses leaking. The TCS code could be a speed sensor, or ABS modulator, but again trouble-shooting will be needed to find the specific part. Your old EGR valve is probably still good. It and the ports may just need cleaning. Trying to guess which parts are bad, can become a very expensive proposition, when you keep guessing the wrong parts. If you would like to trouble shoot the systems yourself, you would need some basic tools (test meter, vacuum pump, and such) and a shop manual for your particular car. Good luck, with whatever you decide to do.

PS: EGR and TCS systems are totally unrelated, so that means two separate issues.

janiebee · November 2007

Hi:
I have a 2000 honda accord 4 cyl automatic, with 99k.
This week, my local gas station mechanic replaced the timing belt, balancer belt, and water pump, (routine maintenance- not due to a problem). When I start the car, I hear a high pitched whine. By the way, I asked for honda parts, and he said he was giving me a honda water
pump and a "gates" belt. I showed him the noise, and he said "bring it back if it doesn't go away in a few weeks".
What do you think?

thegraduate · November 2007

A transmission service, for $60, would be just changing the fluid. That only renews about 1/4th of your overall fluid, because the rest is actually in the transmission, not in the reservoir. Start doing this every 30k to renew the fluid (getting out bits of metal floating in it in the process).

A timing belt, if not changed will eventually snap, and cause enough damage that, well, let's just say you'll wish you had changed it. You can pay less now ($500-$700 for Pump and Belt) or a LOT more later.

upengan78 · November 2007

Hi
I have 2000 Honda Accord V6 3.0 - 4Dr, I had been to some auto-garage very recently and he suggested for Transmission Service (around60$) and Timing Belt Replacement (don;t remember $).
I did 90000 miles check up when car was actually at 93000 miles reading and today tacho reads 109000 miles.

Today I went to honda brad barker for oil change and he did not suggest transmission service and timing belt change...

I am really confused because last some other garage recommended me above 2 services while brad barker today did not..

Is it really required for this honda model to get done above services after driving so much or not required at all ?

This is Auto Transmission 4 Dr 3.0 V6 2000 Honda Accord, 109000 miles.

Thanks

by robertsmx
You don't need transmission (unless you meant transmission service, which I believe is done around 90K miles). But you do need new timing belt/water pump.

by thegraduate
You don't need transmission (unless you meant transmission service, which I believe is done around 90K miles). But you do need new timing belt/water pump.

He said it would be a $60 Transmission Service, so yeah I'd do both of them.

Upengan78,

ESPECIALLY do the Timing Belt and Water Pump. It isn't cheap, but you're operating on borrowed time right now. That service should have been done at 90,000 if I recall correctly

upengan78 · November 2007

Thanks for reply....

is there something online, I can see the factory recommended services for accord 2000 v6

I am not able to find the manual and confused as Honda brad barker itself did not recommend timing belt, transmission service on today's oil change and while I was reading posted messages on internet regarding transmission service, some have been writing if transmission service would actually really be required or it would rather damage the original nice transmission setting...

What is the use of transmission service and timing belt..?
What are their benefits and I know I read somewhere if I don't replace then it would be lot of damage to car

Also, transmission service : does it mean just changing the transmission fluid ?

I appreciate your early reply..

Thanks and happy Thanks giving..

thegraduate · November 2007

I hope you found my post #1084.

user777 · November 2007

it's possible the shop didn't have anyone to tackle a timing belt change when you brought it in.

in general, at your mileage, I think it's recommended, but your manual should be your guide.

go on the honda website and register your VIN. then you should have access to the manual via download.

when it comes to transmission fluid changeouts, I think it's good to do them every 30K. some say 60K, and others say go until you have problems. in my '02 accord 4cyl AT, and my '03 ody 6cyl AT, I personally can tell there's a good change in shift quality with new fluid. others might disagree. so be it.

typically you can drain and fill 3times cycling your vehicle through all the gears each time, and that swaps out most of the fluid. doing so only once does not.

me, i'm a fan of having the dealer "flush" it out. i don't think it's a high-power flush, but instead, using a machine to push the fluid out with new fluid and the pump mechanism built into the transmission, but i could be mistaken. i don't think it increases the likelyhood of transmission problems, but then again, i don't let my transmissions go 90-100K before i get new fluid into them.

this "flush" runs a few hundred if I recall correctly.

google the fluid and capacity of the transmission, or read it in your owners manual (which you download). no doubt when you price it out, this is more expensive than the drain and fill several times (3) approach. however, to do this, you need to have tools and ramps at least, and I don't know if you have either, plus you have to find some documentation on how to drain and fill, and be willing and somewhat mechanically inclined.

you can find that information here if you search for it, but if you aren't changing your own oil, you're probably not likely to do the drain and fill required of the transmission.

what ever you do, i'd recommend making sure the job is done with only Honda recommended OEM fluid. don't use a substitute if you have the job done somewhere else.

regards.

pat · November 2007

is there something online, I can see the factory recommended services for accord 2000 v6

Yes there is. You can start here: Maintenance Schedules, Recalls and Technical Service Bulletins.

normkol · November 2007

Sounds like the alternator or power steering belt. They have to be VERY tight to avoid any squeeling.

booog · November 2007

I have a 2002 V6 accord w/126K miles. A Honda dealer quoted me $987 for this service. Almost $1000 for preventative maintenance! Does this sound right? Do I really need it?

thegraduate · November 2007

You really need it, yes, but not from THAT dealer. You should be able to get it for at most $750, if not necessarily from a dealer.

dayll · November 2007

'98 V-6 Accord - 118,000 miles. I noticed that my headlights and the trans indicator light in the dash kinda go on and off or rather get weaker and stronger. I only notice it when I'm alone on a dark road. The alternator was replaced at about 80,000 miles. Nothing else - no other lights seem to be fluctuating. any ideas? thanks - dd

upengan78 · December 2007

I am also encountering same problem with my Honda Accord 2000 V6 4Dr Sedan. I oberved it at 105000 miles and it is 109000 miles now.. and for my car it happens regularly for dash board speedometer lights go on and off making me difficult to see speed at night..I don't know why but those lights seem to go ON after 45 minutes or so..I tried hitting dashboard earlier , it used to work, but now it does not...i tried AC / Car Stereo ON/ OFF too -does not make any diff..
Even I don;t know how to solve this issue..Seems an issue with Honda Accord

Thanks

user777 · December 2007

i'm not sure about this but:

i think if the battery and alternator are good (and you can have both checked at an auto parts store chain), then it *might* be the Electrical Load Detector (ELD) which is part of the chargine circuit on Hondas. if it malfunctions, it's supposed to force the system to throw a diagnostic code, but I guess it could be flakey and not do that. or possibly, it's not seated well, or the connector to it is faulty / intermittent, or mechanically not good.

it's located within the fuse box in the engine compartment and held in with two screws and has another connector to the wiring harness.

it's purpose if i understand it correctly is to regulate charging during periods of low vs. high loads.

dayll · December 2007

Thank you 777 I'll check that. Also, my dashlights are also turning on and off real fast just like upengan78's. dayll

elroy5 · December 2007

Possibly a bad ground on your speedometer. It is an electronic counting device and reads the pulses from the speed sensor. A bad ground or connector on your guage package could result in this pulsing being feed through into other components. May also be a bad speedo itself causing the same signal feedthrough to the power side.
You can clear up the alternator theory by driving at say 25 mph in second gear and get a feel for how it is pulsing. Repeat at 25mph in THIRD gear - pulsing slower then it may be the alternator, pulsing the same - then something in the guage cluster is likely to blame. You could also pull the VSS connector and drive it - if the pulsing quits, then it has to be in the guage cluster

jaedlee · December 2007

i recently had check engine light which i took to autozone to have it read; it showed EGR valve. Unfortunately i must have erased the code and when i took it next day to the dealer they told me they could not read the error and that until the light comes on, there was nothing they can do. Well after 1.5 to 2 weeks of driving the light came back i took it back. But my car '99 with 88500 on the accord, the extended warranty on the valve had expired. I called the customer service at honda and with very little hassle, they agreed to pay the parts or the labor, which ever was more expensive. I think the EGR valve job is about 1.5 hour job, but the service dude quoted the customer rep 200 for the part and when i called back he agreed that his part quote was wrong and dropped the labor charge to 1 hour. Ended up paying 95bucks for it but i hated the hassle of taking it in twice ... with 2 young kids and wife and i both working, it's always a hassle taking cars in for service. So to my next question ... i'm thinking of purchasing a 5 series BMW but i'm debating whether to sell off my 99 accord or 2000 pathfinder with 58000 miles. Accord's been good to me but i do have a rear main seal leak (very minimal .. no need to supplement at 3k for loss), my airconditioner may have a leak, but did have timing belt and water pump replaced last year, and brand new tires. My pathy needs new tires and 60k service. Sorry for the long post. Any recommendation would be appreciated.

upengan78 · December 2007

You can clear up the alternator theory by driving at say 25 mph in second gear and get a feel for how it is pulsing. Repeat at 25mph in THIRD gear - pulsing slower then it may be the alternator, pulsing the same - then something in the guage cluster is likely to blame. You could also pull the VSS connector and drive it - if the pulsing quits, then it has to be in the guage cluster

Is above all for Speedo Lights on and off ?

elroy5 · December 2007

I don't think the BMW will necessarily require less trips to the dealership, it may require more. If that is the only reason for the change, I question how wise it would be.

philt1 · December 2007

I have a '99 Honda Accord. When it is cold the windshield wipers do not work right away. If I turn the wiper switch on & off a number of times (depending on how cold it is) the wipers eventually start to move. The dealer doesn't know what is causing this as they have not seen a similar problem. Anyone have any ideas? Thxs.

nlanders · December 2007

My Honda, when you start it the engine reves up and down. Can anyone help me out on what could be the problem?

Thanks

sillysimms · December 2007

I brought my car, 1999 Honda Accord, in to a mechanic to have a power steering fluid leak fixed. They also changed the oil. At the mechanics, the odometer stopped displaying. As well, the speed, rpm etc. (the entire dashboard) is not working at all. At least I should say, the dashboard was displaying when I brought the car in but when I picked it up, the mechanic told me he noticed the kilometres were not showing when they went to check it when changing the oil. He checked some things and doesn't know why. I soon realized it's the whole dashboard display not working.

Please advise what could cause this. Could it have been something the mechanic might have done accidentally? Like loosen a wire or something, a quick fix? Or is it likely unrelated. The stereo was also asking for "code" when I picked the car up so it means the battery or alternator power supply had been disconnected while it was there. I don't have the code but can get it from my Honda dealer. That is less of a concern than the whole dash being out. We've replaced the battery as the car is a '99 and had the original battery but still no fix. This is the first time in more than 8 years I took the car to anywhere besides Honda and am wondering if I made a mistake. We only drove it a short distance since picking it up because you can't tell how fast you're going and it overheated. My husband thinks it needs a new radiator cap, but we'll see. This is the first repair (the power steering leak) the car has needed in 8 years and seems like a whole bunch of things have gone wrong at the same time.

The mechanic says he didn't cause it but has no idea what is wrong with it and I should bring it to Honda. I've called them and made an appointment. I asked on the phone what it might be and he said he'll have to see it but most likely the instrument cluster has gone. Is this an expensive repair? Sounds like it. Is it possible the mechanic loosened a wire or something because it's odd that it happened at the same time the car was in the shop. I've heard from others they may have forgotten to attach a ground wire or they may have crossed wire when they were working on the car accidentally and fried the instrument cluster. We were hoping it was a fuse, but the manual shows the instrument panel and back up lights share the same fuse and the back up lights are still working.

This is a 1999 Accord with under 60,000 kilometres. I don't drive it very much but have never had any problems with it and dread the thought of spending thousands on it. Any help is appreciated. Thank you.

mrbill1957 · December 2007

I had a similar problem with my 88 Accord. I would turn on the wipers, and it would take a second or so for them to start. I eventually rotated the switch on/off/on rapidly a dozen times or so. That fixed my problem. The contacts must have been corroded.

Mrbill

sillysimms · December 2007

We now know when we drive the car, it overheats. Does overheating and an instrument panel that is not working point to any specific problem? Thanks

elroy5 · December 2007

Does the temperature gauge tell you it's overheating, or is there another indication?

jaedlee · December 2007

it's just time for a change is all. All cars need service, BMWs included, but at least luxury lines give you a loaner instead of bus hauling the customers in their stenchy minivans.

riverwestraf · December 2007

Elroy, My 95 accord has been the most reliable car I have ever had. It now has over 200K miles, and I just replaced 1 caliper, other than that, only oil changes and brakes in the past 5 years. It is now my winter/snow car since I purchased a 2000 BMW 328I. The relationship between the Bimmer and I is love/hate. I have never driven a car that handles so well. it truly is the ultimate driving machine...when it is running good. If you are mechanically inclined, and can do stuff yourself...get one. If not, maintanence cost is 10X that of a Honda. The stealership wanted $1200 for an alternator, $1350 for the "maintenance two", basically plugs, oil change and 3 filters.

Good luk

sillysimms · December 2007

No, the temperature gauge wasn't working at all. Steam came out of the engine and that was the first indication.

Update: My husband called the mechanic this morning to discuss this and he didn't call back so he went directly to the shop. The mechanic said it's as much a mystery to him as us. He thinks it was like that when we brought it in (which it wasn't).

We had it towed to Honda. They've just called. They have said the circuit board on the instrument panel has gone and needs to have the entire instrument panel/instrument gauges replaced. They don't know why it would happen in a car with under 60K but can't say the mechanic did something, they thing it's random. I think it's odd that it happened while it was at the mechanics, but there's nothing I can do about it.

Regarding the overheating, they asked if I took the radiator cap off. My husband did after the engine cooled down to check the fluid levels. They said we should never take it off as it is dangerous. Then we realized they thought were had been driving with it off so we confirmed that we did not drive with the cap off. They said they noticed fluids in the engine but they drove it for a while and it didn't overheat. The fluids likely got there when the car overheated. I told them the displays on the dash weren't working so my husband couldn't tell it was overheating until it was already hot. They wanted to know how he knew it was overheating without the displays on the dash working so my husband said that steam had started coming out of the hood. He stopped the car and after it had cooled down for some time, he took off the radiator cap to check the fluid level. They can't figure out why it was overheating as it didn't happen today but they'll have the car for another 3 days waiting for the instrument panel and will drive it more

The bill so far:

$95 to diagnose the instrument panel problem
$95 to diagnose the overheating problem (even though no solution found, we're still being charge)
$201 for the instrument panel
$144 for the labour

They said if they can find out anything about the overheating they'll call and advise how much that fix will cost.

elroy5 · December 2007

I'm sure the shop will figure out why it was overheating, so it's useless for me to guess at this point. The cluster problem and the overheating do seem unrelated, and I can't think of any common part that would cause both. Good luck

dayll · December 2007

thanx Elroy5 - but what/where is the VSS connector? -dayll

elroy5 · December 2007

I think this link will show you where the VSS is. This is not for your year Accord, but hopefully it's close enough. Good luck

http://techauto.awardspace.com/vss.html

sillysimms · December 2007

Well, the good news is the car is fixed. You don't realize how much you need a car until you're without one for a period of time! My husband will either drop me off to pick it up tonight or the dealership will send their courtesy vehicle tomorrow to get me.

I just should make one clarification, as I just found out. There was a slight misunderstanding I think. When they called they told me the circuit board on the instrument panel was gone and the whole thing needed to be replaced. I guess I interpreted that to mean they were replacing the whole instrument panel. I'd called yesterday and asked for return of the old part out of curiosity. The message they left me today was that it's fixed, there is no core charge on the circuit board so they've left it in the car. I guess that would mean only the circuit board and not the whole instrument panel was replaced.

They seemed to try to be fair although I hadn't taken it there for the original repair. They said they've deducted an hour of labour to help offset the overheating diagnosis charge as they didn't find anything. So the cost came to just under $500/total including taxes.

So as of tomorrow I should have a car again.

Thank you for your help. At least I got to learn a (little!) bit more about the mechanics of cars throughout this. Hopefully we won't have any more problems.

sillysimms · December 2007

I just got the circuit board on my dashboard replaced after the odometer and all gauges stopped working.

When I got the car back, the gear shift indicator on the dash (PRN etc.) has a green light around each gear but it does not change when I move from park to drive etc. as it did before the repair.

Does anyone know what might cause this and if it is likely related to the repair done on the circuit board. I wonder if I bring it back to the dealership if they can fix it or if the change of the circuit board means I won't have this feature anymore? Thanks.

user777 · December 2007

i've never seen one of these boards, so i have no idea if it has one or two (or more) cable harnesses attaching to it. i imagine it does though, and one of the harnesses comes from the shifter.

sounds to me like a harness coming from the gear shift (basically a multi-position switch) has not been re-connected to the instrument panel ckt board.

they should take care of it right?

of all the things on the circuit board, the indication of P, R, N, D, 1, 2, 3 (or what have you) has got to be the lowest tech, or one of the lowest tech portions of the whole board.

you can of course determine your shift position by looking at the shifter, and more than likely in your AT vehicle, your mostly only shifting when at a stand-still so heads-down time isn't an issue.

still, getting it fixed i suspect they'll take care of you.

srgauto · December 2007

I have a 2002 Accord SE 4 cyl. 2 door with 77,280 miles. Car is having hard time starting when sitting overnight in temps under 30 degrees. When turning key, the car "chokes/stumbles" for approx 10 seconds and then starts/runs fine. Only happens on 1st cold start of morning. Cannot replicate untile next morning. Car just had new plugs, wires, rotor, dist. cap. Problem occured before maint. & continues afterwards but only in cold temps. no tsb for this issue. checked coolant temp, etc. & all are in the correct parameters. Any ideas?????

thegraduate · December 2007

Sounds like your battery is struggling to crank when cold. Have the battery tested, and see if it is charged properly. I can't say for sure, but I'd guess you need a new battery based on the info given. When did you last get a battery for it?

srgauto · December 2007

Nope, it's not the battery. That is brand new this past spring. The car is "choking/coughing/shaking" until it starts. Was told it could be coolant sensor or water in fuel, but if that is the case it would be all the time, not just on a cold start. Sensor is ordered, hopefully that's it. Thanks for the post.

darshansk8er · December 2007

I have a 2001 accord LX 2.3 4cyl. My brakes recently started to squeal. I understand that the squealing noise means I need new brakes. However, I just had my brakes replace three months ago and it is always the right side break pad that wears down the fasest. The last time this happend, the right side pads wore all the way down to the metal while the left side still had brake compound left. Can anyone tell me why this is happening?

kiawah · December 2007

The piston in your right front caliper is binding, usually due to corrosion/crude that gets behind the piston and then the users not flushing the brakes every two years.

Replace both front calipers.

What happens after you have this situation, is that when new pads are put on...the pistons are forced back into the calipers (to make room for the extra pad thickness). When they do that, the piston is forced past the area that has the corrosion on it, and the piston now begins to bind.

When the brake pedal is put on with lots of pressure, the piston is forced outward to put the brakes on. However, the piston does not float back by itself when it is supposed to, as the brake pedal is released. As a result, you run with the front pads continually trying to stop the car, and they wear down very fast. You will usually also see a lot of brake dust on your wheels, as well as feel heat, and/or smell the brakes.

Honda Accord (1998-2002) Maintenance and Repair

Comments

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles