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Honda Accord (1998-2002) Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Happy Holidays from Dixie (Alabama) :)
  • nlsnls Member Posts: 65
    Thanks for the tip. I will check it out. If the service interval is extended only by the use of double platinum plugs, what is the advantage in using single platinum plugs? If Bosch plugs are to be avoided, is the use of their wireset okay? I see some premium wiresets advertised, is there any real performance improvement?
  • jolpotjolpot Member Posts: 19
    I had my tires rotated and fronts aligned around 10 days ago. A couple of days ago, noticed when I insert the key into the ignition and turn(not start yet), the Parking light AND D4 light come ON. After a second maybe, D4 is off.

    I try to start the car and as the car is cranking, both parking light and D4 are on and once the car starts, D4 goes OFF and Parking light is ON.

    Is this standard behavior or is something wrong or about to go wrong? I did read "thegraduate"'s post about "blinking D4" light and spent the last weekend reading a lot of articles/posts about TCU, main relay, solenoids, the long and short D4 codes...primarily, however, my D4 does not blink...it briefly comes on and goes off and am able to drive the car...I read about the car not shifting properly either, since its an auto tranny, tuff to say.

    Although, the guys at TownFair Tire(Tire rotation and alignment) may have screwed something up when aligining the fronts, I can feel the brakeshoes press against the rotors...there is a weird rythmic noise and vibration on my steering wheel and my mileage too has dropped dramatically over the last week. So, I am not sure if this is related to the issue I am writing.

    Any help appreciated.
    Thanks,
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    I try to start the car and as the car is cranking, both parking light and D4 are on and once the car starts, D4 goes OFF and Parking light is ON.

    Is this standard behavior or is something wrong or about to go wrong? I did read "thegraduate"'s post about "blinking D4" light and spent the last weekend reading a lot of articles/posts about TCU, main relay, solenoids, the long and short D4 codes...primarily, however, my D4 does not blink...it briefly comes on and goes off and am able to drive the car...I read about the car not shifting properly either, since its an auto tranny, tuff to say.


    I am trying hard to remember, but I want to believe this is pretty normal. If your D4 isn't blinking, or staying on regardless, you should be ok. In a moment, I'll actually run outside and double-check this with my 1996 Accord LX for you.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    jolpot,

    I just tried this. When:

    1.) Turning the key to position II (ON) - the P and D4 are both illuminated for the duration of two seatbelt warning beeps (about two seconds, maybe three). Then the D4 goes off.

    2.) Cranking the car - the P and D4 are both illuminated for the duration of the cranking. When the car is started and running, the D4 immediately goes off, leaving the P on.

    I have a few videos on youtube.com. Do a search for my username - UABBlazers87 - and search for my boring video of "1996 Accord LX Cranking". It is hard to see (dark) but it shows the sequence my car goes through when cranking up, I believe. I can't access youtube from my current location, but I hope you can, you will, and will see that it acts like your vehicle (I hope!).

    Keep us posted jolpot.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    If Bosch plugs are to be avoided, is the use of their wireset okay?

    Stock Honda wires are the best you can get (made by NGK). The old stock wires you have are probably better than a new Bosh set, IMO.
  • jolpotjolpot Member Posts: 19
    thegraduate,

    Firstly, thanks for the lightning response. Thank you thank you thank you :-)...my baby, my baby is doing just fine then, what relief!

    Yes, I saw both the videos(http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Vicv4hq048
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QCEdcjnUTHo), however, it was hard to see the "D4 illuminated during the duration of cranking".

    The reason why I began to notice this, after 7 years of owning, I dont know.

    Except, in the winter, the car cranks for 3-5seconds(previously posted unresolved issue!) before coming to life and sure enough, my eyes were on the console and happened to see P and D4 ON and then D4 go OFF.

    Now to go and fight with the townfairguys to see what they messed up...

    phew!
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    There is a paste substance that is to be applied to the back of the brake pads and between the shims. My guess is they either didn't apply the paste, or didn't use the shims, or both. Techs not familiar with Hondas may not know this is necessary to prevent squealing and vibration.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    No problem... I'm sorry my video is hard to see (it was my first real car post on youtube so I didn't really know what I was doing :blush: ) and the fact that I can't access youtube right now means I can't positively remember what you see in the videos.

    Glad I could help (although I didn't really do anything ;) ) It's funny how you notice little nuances about your car as time goes by. We all do it. :)
  • jolpotjolpot Member Posts: 19
    I dont want to thread crap.

    Elroy, I dont know what is done in a typical wheel alignment...am surprised to notice this has an effect on my brakes...the brakes/rotors were done by a friend and me this past february and you are right, we forgot to grease the backside of the brakepads and all these months, I have felt sorry for the drivers on the road...ohh, the horror!(squealing).

    After the front wheel alignment, when the car is in motion(I ake my foot of the gas pedal and while momentum takes the car forward, can actually hear the rythmic noises coming from the wheels)the brakepads seem to come in contact with rotors, especially when I am on an incline, noise become noticeable, my wife cd hear this morning as we came to a stop at a red light.

    TheGraduate,

    Your real time check and the video more than helped me. It is kinda nice, all of us can make "car diaries" make/post them online ;) Its nice to go back to a previous reference point. Your point welltaken about the "little nuances".
  • ablettablett Member Posts: 1
    My 1999 Accord runs great but the engine has started quiting while I'm driving. It doen't matter how fast I'm going. The electrical stays on and doesn't dim but the engine and power quits. It's manual but won't restart by poping the clutch. It restarts, although it seems like it's getting harder to restart. It's only just started doing this in the past week. I'm planning on taking it to the Honda dealer Monday but was wondering if anyone knew what was happening?
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    If it's an F22 engine, I suspect either the distributor, igniter, or coil, in that order. Hope it's not something major. Good luck
  • upengan78upengan78 Member Posts: 21
    Hi

    My accord V6 -2000 3.0L taco reads 112900 and I did an oil change service(honda dealer) before 2000 miles or so..

    Still when I turn on the ignition , the Maintenance LED comes on for 3-4 seconds and goes away..when I start car it DOES NOT appear again and car runs fine.

    I did not notice something unusual when car was running except that sometimes even though my air conditioning was OFF there was lot of HOT AIR coming from AC vents on dash board which was kinda unusual because I had just driven car for 10-20 miles when hot air started coming from ac vents from engine I suppose..

    earlier day I had driven car for 400 miles with some stops !

    What could be the reason for this maintenance required indication and does it mean I have to put coolant ? I never put coolant and I drove around 20000 miles till now . BUT I do the oil change every 3000 miles. I assume an oil change service must be taking care of the coolant stuff too. I have just been replacing Windshield washer fluid by myself..

    Please help me with suggestions regarding maintenance LED flashing and coolant replacement when to do it.

    Thank you
    Upendra
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    I think if you read your manual (and I would suggest that you do), the Honda will flash the light when you are comming up on a maintenance interval, then go out. As you get closer, it will stay illuminated until reset. The Reset procedure should be in the manual as well.

    When you go to a shop to have your oil changed (and you have yours on 3K intervals which I think is unnecessarily often, 4.5K-5.0K is what I do), no, a person isn't going to service your engine coolant (which is a separate thing entirely than oil). And don't let them. Take it to the dealership and have them use only Honda Coolant when it's supposed to be serviced.

    Generally, a coolant change is something you have done on perhaps 40K intervals perhaps.

    Go back and read your manual. It will indicate the recommended change intervals for the Oil and Coolant. It will also explain how you can determine (when the engine is COLD!) if the engine needs additional coolant (generally, the level should be 1/2 way between Min and Max in the resevoir off to the side of the radiator).

    Also, the Edmunds car site has a recommended maintenance intervals list for your Honda which you can follow, if you've misplaced your manual (has a section on Service Schedule).
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    The maintenance required indicator can be reset yourself. If you are having the oil changed every 3000 miles, it just means whoever was changing your oil hasn't reset the maintenance indicator - which will engage every 7500 miles or so. To reset this, while the car is off press in the trip reset button with your left hand. THEN turn the key to the 2nd position (ON) but don't crank it. Hold it there for ten-twelve seconds then you may release it (Make sure you hold it long enough - go 15 seconds to be sure). After that, the maintenance required indicator should no long illuminate when you crank your car.

    Unless you drive in very short distances, with lots of cold starts and idling, you should be able to go at least 5k miles without an oil change.

    This light has nothing to do with your coolant whatsoever.
  • upengan78upengan78 Member Posts: 21
    Ok Thank you all who responded. I will reset the trip button.

    I wonder why hond adealers also don't trip it when they do oil service..and stick a paper notifying next oil change in 3000 miles :)) Next time I will do oil change in 5000miles.

    but I think the car does go through cold start because it is used in chicago where is very cold.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Yes, cold starts are ok though as long as you don't go 1 mile, then turn it off and back on (make lots of short trips).

    The Honda dealer is just making money with those stickers. They used to put them in my Accord, and I asked them to stop. I imagine the service techs just forget to do it, or were never reminded to that in the first place, especially since they don't go by the actual recommended service schedule.
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    The last sticker I got told me my next service was due at the exact mileage the car was when I left it with them that morning. :P
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    My last sticker had the math done wrong (4000 miles, not 3000). I hope they double check their math when actually calculating how much oil to use!
  • upengan78upengan78 Member Posts: 21
    :surprise:
  • mookie_840mookie_840 Member Posts: 1
    I'm having a whining problem coming from under the hood it's usually there when the car is cold but sometimes its just random, along with a few other problems like when I'm above 2500RPMs. When I'm on the highway before my car shifts down from around 2500rpms the door light, battery light, srs light, and brake light on the dash come and the dash and headlights pulsate. The srs light also just goes on and off randomly throughout driving. Sometimes it comes on when you move the seat or open and close a window and sometimes it comes on for no reason.

    I was wondering if this sounds like its the alternator going out?
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    I was wondering if this sounds like its the alternator going out?

    I think you've got the situation pegged. Your alternator could be overcharging. Happens a lot. Maybe you can get it tested, to be sure.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    :surprise: And you guys let these bafoons work on your cars? When you take your car to the dealership, you think "A mechanic should be able to do an oil change with his eyes closed", but the guy who does simple maintenance has probably only been working there a couple of months.
  • upengan78upengan78 Member Posts: 21
    I am not a car mechanic but what I used to think is, honda dealers would have experienced all know-how mechanics who would do the work perfectly and on top of that suggest me if something going wrong or maintenance needs with my car...This is second time I am in suprised, first time when the honda manual suggests me to change timing belt after 10500 miles but honda dealer brad barker tells no need to do it when asked repeatedly and this was at 110000... Where as other mechanic suggested do it asap and the techies on this forum also suggested to replace it with water pump..

    I was thinking of doing some 100$ detailed inspection at honda dealer but now I am thinking...

    Secondly now when they put a sticker of 3000 miles oil change for honda accords where as they must be using good quality oils already.. :mad:
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    I'm sure the person who puts the sticker in the windshield is not the tech doing the work. ;)
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    IMO, the dealership service manager will tell you "you need to do this maintenance sooner" if the service department needs more work. If the work is backed up for days and days the service manager will say "oh, it can wait a while longer". I'm glad I don't have to deal with them at all. :D
  • jksmekojksmeko Member Posts: 1
    Roland I'm having te same problems with my 2000 Accord have you got it fixed yet?

    Joe Meko
    Russell, KY jksmeko@roadrunner.com
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Please don't email answers and instead share them here so everyone can benefit! :)
  • colloquorcolloquor Member Posts: 482
    Most dealerships do not use certified line mechanics to do oil changes. Rather, oil changes are done by lower-level shop employees, sometimes even part-time high school co-op education employees. This is not the case at all dealerships, but at many more than you would expect.

    Next time you take your Honda in for an oil change ask the Service Advisor or Service Manager who performs the oil change. Also ask if the drain plug is hand torqued to the proper lb./ft. torque spec with a torque wrench. Any really good shop should do so.
  • upengan78upengan78 Member Posts: 21
    Okay I will ask the honda guys..some times I just don't understand where to take my car for oil change wit hso many mechanics doing it at 12 $ and honda charges 29 $ (+ TAXES)

    Every one says we use good quality rated oils. still I would take it to honda even if it is costly because at least I can ask for answers later

    Thanks
    Upen
    IL,Chicago
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    i think that these quick change places are going to try very hard to upsell you on additional things you don't need. i don't see how they can make $$$ charging $12 (?).

    no, if you go into an auto-supply store, expect to pay about $2.00 to $2.50 for a quart of name-brand 5W-20 oil. you'll need to buy about 5.

    for a good oil filter, expect to pay $6.00 to $10.00.

    i believe shops have to pay disposal fees they pass along to the consumer, so $12 just doesn't mathematically add up.

    i want to say, for the oil (Castrol or Penzoil) and filter (Mobil1) I purchase, it costs a DIYer like me $24-$26 for each change. no, i don't use a new compressible ring for the drain plug each time, but I think honda dealers do. that must add a half-dollar or so.

    then there is time.

    i value my time... so i do it myself. ;) actually, it gives me a chance to look at stuff on the underside of the cars on a periodic basis, and I KNOW what is going into the vehicle and that I'M getting a new filter.

    a dealership is supposed to do a multi-point inspection as well.

    to each his own.
  • hawari31hawari31 Member Posts: 7
    02 accord w/130K miles 5 speed
    I am looking for some inf=sight as to what should I do in this case. I took my car for an oil change and I asked if they see any leaks, because I saw some oli for some time where the engine and the transmission meet. The dealer quote was:

    Rear main seal leak : $900
    Oil pan gasket leak: $290 ( even though I have replaced this gasket 1 1/2 years ago by a different dealer)
    They also suggested doing a power steering flush for $120 and a BG fuel induction service for $ 150 !!!! ( i know this service = $$$ in the dealer's pocket)

    Is this a reasonable price for fixing the leaks? and is it possible the oil pan gasket that I replaced has gone bad?
    I called another dealer inquiring about a power steering flush, and they told me that they don't do it , as it is not recommended by Honda,
    Last time I flushed the power steering was at 64K, so should I do this or not?

    any comments or suggestions are highly appreciated.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    It is highly unlikely anyone is going to use a torque wrench on an oil pan plug. I'm sure if I looked it up there is probably a torque value listed but this isn't critical.

    Just make sure it's snugged up and don't over tighten it.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    Well, in my experience some technicians think every car should be perfect. It's a six year old car with a ton of miles on it.

    Is it dripping in your driveway? Do you have to add oil?

    If not, I would just keep an eye on it. Thre is a big difference between a gasket or seal that "seeps" a bit and one that really leaks.

    And I wouldn't do a flush or the fuel injection service either.

    Now, if you haven't replaced your timing belt, you are overdue. this I would do without delay.
  • hawari31hawari31 Member Posts: 7
    is it dripping in your driveway?
    a few drops after I park the car, which leads me that it is leaking a few here and there while driving. My commute is 90 miles/day!!

    Do you have to add oil? I add around a quart of oil every 3000-4000 miles. The timing belt +water pump was done at 105K miles.

    so do you suggest the leak is not severe enough to replace the rear main seal? I'd like to keep the car for another 100K miles if I could and all my driving is highway which is not wearing the engine that much. Yes, its a 6yr old car with tons of miles, but they're all highway miles and it a Honda ! :)
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    If the oil was leaking enough to where I had to add oil between oil changes, I would have that fixed, especially if you want to keep the car for another 100k miles. It's not going to get better, only worse.
  • hawari31hawari31 Member Posts: 7
    first of all thanks [isellhondas] and [elroy5] for your comments...
    elroy5, just to confirm what you said, so if I had to add half to 3/4 a quart every 4000 miles ( my average oil change interval), then you recommend replacing the seal? If I'm doing this type of work, should I ask them to assess the condition of the clutch plate, pressure plate...etc?
    Going back to the oil leak, as far as I can see, I see several drops of oil after I get home and park the car, so I assume the oil is leaking while I was driving?
    Regarding the power steering fluid, the Dealer said it is low and contaminated :confuse: and they recommended a flush. Another dealer said don't touch it. I guess it'll be alright if we just add some PS fluid and call it a night? I know [isellhondas] said not to change it, what do you recommend?
    I know I am throwing a lot of curve balls out there, but I just want to make a sound decision about these issues.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    I didn't say not to CHANGE the power steering fluid although I don't think this is part of Honda's maintenance schedule.

    I said I wouldn't FLUSH it. to me, flush means removing the old fluid under pressure and replacing it. Personally, I would probably just leave it alone.

    OK, if it is leaking bad enough to drip on your driveway than that rear main seal and oil pan gasket need to be replaced. I've never heard of having to replace a rear main seal on a Honda but I guess they can go bad. ALL highway miles, huh? That sounds familiar. :)

    And, yes, it's a Honda and it can easily go another 100,000 miles and more.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    If I'm doing this type of work, should I ask them to assess the condition of the clutch plate, pressure plate...etc?

    It would be a good idea to check it while it's apart. I think that would be automatically done, if it's a reputable shop. I would be hesitant in suggesting they do anything extra though (kind of like giving them a way to pad the bill) so that's your call.

    Regarding the power steering fluid, the Dealer said it is low and contaminated and they recommended a flush. Another dealer said don't touch it. I guess it'll be alright if we just add some PS fluid and call it a night? I know [isellhondas] said not to change it, what do you recommend?


    The price was $170, correct? That is outrageous for that simple procedure (unless it's a lot harder on an 02 than an 03, which I doubt). If they are going to charge you over $100, tell them to shove it, IMO.
  • tylerptylerp Member Posts: 1
    where is the windshield wiper fluid reservoir on my 95 honda accord ex!?!?!?
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    On most Accords you don't really see the tank itself, only a large clear tube coming up with a blue cap on it. It should have a windshield symbol on the cap.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    elroy has it right.

    If you are standing there with the hood open, the reservoir is closest to the front of the car, on the right (driver's) side.

    Happy Hondaing, and welcome to Edmunds.
  • blufz1blufz1 Member Posts: 2,045
    I think you need to go to the dealer that is not trying to sell you all these "fixes." That way, you can better find out what really needs to be done.
  • hawari31hawari31 Member Posts: 7
    Thanks [elroy5] for your advice, you don't know how much I appreciate this. I got my answer for the PS fluid flush ( or whatever the heck the dealer wants to call it and charge $120). I checked it this morning, and it lookes a bit low, so I'll add some more fluid and leave it alone. I could not find anything in my owner manual regarding this maintenance, so that explains it.
  • hawari31hawari31 Member Posts: 7
    I agree with you [blufz1], but it is hard to find a dealer that will only diagnose the problem and don't give you a laundry list of what your car needs. I thinks someoine replied saying that a rear main seal leak on an 02 Accord is rare, so it is interesting to hear other people's opinion. It will help me make a better decision.
  • blufz1blufz1 Member Posts: 2,045
    Hey,guys,. Has anyone got a neat front license plate bracket that does not require drilling into the front bumper with a mounting screw?? Thanks!
  • ivicaivica Member Posts: 34
    Finally after almost 10 years and 255,000 kms my muffler has started to go. In Canada I priced the following
    1. muffler man and they want $370 for parts and labor including gaskets
    2. Honda dealer wants $303 parts + $87 labor + gaskets + taxes = $505 dollars.

    I priced a muffler on line at Majestic Honda and their price is $158 + shipping and handling. Then I need to install it.

    Has anyone purchase a muffler from Majestic Honda? Are they stainless steel like the OEM parts?

    Any responses would be appreciated.

    Regards
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Yes, I would definitely get the one from Majestic. It will be a Honda muffler, and will bolt right up. Aftermarket mufflers can be tuned differently from the factory muffler, sound bad, and fail quickly. I found that out the hard way with my 92 Accord.
  • ivicaivica Member Posts: 34
    Thanks Elroy. I will probably buy the muffler from Majestic and pay a muffler shop to install it. I don't have a torch at home to cut the old bolts/clamps off.

    J.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Better give the whole system a close look to make sure you don't need other pipes. You can give them the crush test with hose clamps to see if they are rotten on the inside. Otherwise, they'll cut your old muffler off only to find out perhaps that you need more---and then you're stuck, you'd have to buy from them.
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