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I try to start the car and as the car is cranking, both parking light and D4 are on and once the car starts, D4 goes OFF and Parking light is ON.
Is this standard behavior or is something wrong or about to go wrong? I did read "thegraduate"'s post about "blinking D4" light and spent the last weekend reading a lot of articles/posts about TCU, main relay, solenoids, the long and short D4 codes...primarily, however, my D4 does not blink...it briefly comes on and goes off and am able to drive the car...I read about the car not shifting properly either, since its an auto tranny, tuff to say.
Although, the guys at TownFair Tire(Tire rotation and alignment) may have screwed something up when aligining the fronts, I can feel the brakeshoes press against the rotors...there is a weird rythmic noise and vibration on my steering wheel and my mileage too has dropped dramatically over the last week. So, I am not sure if this is related to the issue I am writing.
Any help appreciated.
Thanks,
Is this standard behavior or is something wrong or about to go wrong? I did read "thegraduate"'s post about "blinking D4" light and spent the last weekend reading a lot of articles/posts about TCU, main relay, solenoids, the long and short D4 codes...primarily, however, my D4 does not blink...it briefly comes on and goes off and am able to drive the car...I read about the car not shifting properly either, since its an auto tranny, tuff to say.
I am trying hard to remember, but I want to believe this is pretty normal. If your D4 isn't blinking, or staying on regardless, you should be ok. In a moment, I'll actually run outside and double-check this with my 1996 Accord LX for you.
I just tried this. When:
1.) Turning the key to position II (ON) - the P and D4 are both illuminated for the duration of two seatbelt warning beeps (about two seconds, maybe three). Then the D4 goes off.
2.) Cranking the car - the P and D4 are both illuminated for the duration of the cranking. When the car is started and running, the D4 immediately goes off, leaving the P on.
I have a few videos on youtube.com. Do a search for my username - UABBlazers87 - and search for my boring video of "1996 Accord LX Cranking". It is hard to see (dark) but it shows the sequence my car goes through when cranking up, I believe. I can't access youtube from my current location, but I hope you can, you will, and will see that it acts like your vehicle (I hope!).
Keep us posted jolpot.
Stock Honda wires are the best you can get (made by NGK). The old stock wires you have are probably better than a new Bosh set, IMO.
Firstly, thanks for the lightning response. Thank you thank you thank you :-)...my baby, my baby is doing just fine then, what relief!
Yes, I saw both the videos(http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Vicv4hq048
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QCEdcjnUTHo), however, it was hard to see the "D4 illuminated during the duration of cranking".
The reason why I began to notice this, after 7 years of owning, I dont know.
Except, in the winter, the car cranks for 3-5seconds(previously posted unresolved issue!) before coming to life and sure enough, my eyes were on the console and happened to see P and D4 ON and then D4 go OFF.
Now to go and fight with the townfairguys to see what they messed up...
phew!
Glad I could help (although I didn't really do anything ) It's funny how you notice little nuances about your car as time goes by. We all do it.
Elroy, I dont know what is done in a typical wheel alignment...am surprised to notice this has an effect on my brakes...the brakes/rotors were done by a friend and me this past february and you are right, we forgot to grease the backside of the brakepads and all these months, I have felt sorry for the drivers on the road...ohh, the horror!(squealing).
After the front wheel alignment, when the car is in motion(I ake my foot of the gas pedal and while momentum takes the car forward, can actually hear the rythmic noises coming from the wheels)the brakepads seem to come in contact with rotors, especially when I am on an incline, noise become noticeable, my wife cd hear this morning as we came to a stop at a red light.
TheGraduate,
Your real time check and the video more than helped me. It is kinda nice, all of us can make "car diaries" make/post them online Its nice to go back to a previous reference point. Your point welltaken about the "little nuances".
My accord V6 -2000 3.0L taco reads 112900 and I did an oil change service(honda dealer) before 2000 miles or so..
Still when I turn on the ignition , the Maintenance LED comes on for 3-4 seconds and goes away..when I start car it DOES NOT appear again and car runs fine.
I did not notice something unusual when car was running except that sometimes even though my air conditioning was OFF there was lot of HOT AIR coming from AC vents on dash board which was kinda unusual because I had just driven car for 10-20 miles when hot air started coming from ac vents from engine I suppose..
earlier day I had driven car for 400 miles with some stops !
What could be the reason for this maintenance required indication and does it mean I have to put coolant ? I never put coolant and I drove around 20000 miles till now . BUT I do the oil change every 3000 miles. I assume an oil change service must be taking care of the coolant stuff too. I have just been replacing Windshield washer fluid by myself..
Please help me with suggestions regarding maintenance LED flashing and coolant replacement when to do it.
Thank you
Upendra
When you go to a shop to have your oil changed (and you have yours on 3K intervals which I think is unnecessarily often, 4.5K-5.0K is what I do), no, a person isn't going to service your engine coolant (which is a separate thing entirely than oil). And don't let them. Take it to the dealership and have them use only Honda Coolant when it's supposed to be serviced.
Generally, a coolant change is something you have done on perhaps 40K intervals perhaps.
Go back and read your manual. It will indicate the recommended change intervals for the Oil and Coolant. It will also explain how you can determine (when the engine is COLD!) if the engine needs additional coolant (generally, the level should be 1/2 way between Min and Max in the resevoir off to the side of the radiator).
Also, the Edmunds car site has a recommended maintenance intervals list for your Honda which you can follow, if you've misplaced your manual (has a section on Service Schedule).
Unless you drive in very short distances, with lots of cold starts and idling, you should be able to go at least 5k miles without an oil change.
This light has nothing to do with your coolant whatsoever.
I wonder why hond adealers also don't trip it when they do oil service..and stick a paper notifying next oil change in 3000 miles ) Next time I will do oil change in 5000miles.
but I think the car does go through cold start because it is used in chicago where is very cold.
The Honda dealer is just making money with those stickers. They used to put them in my Accord, and I asked them to stop. I imagine the service techs just forget to do it, or were never reminded to that in the first place, especially since they don't go by the actual recommended service schedule.
I was wondering if this sounds like its the alternator going out?
I think you've got the situation pegged. Your alternator could be overcharging. Happens a lot. Maybe you can get it tested, to be sure.
I was thinking of doing some 100$ detailed inspection at honda dealer but now I am thinking...
Secondly now when they put a sticker of 3000 miles oil change for honda accords where as they must be using good quality oils already.. :mad:
Joe Meko
Russell, KY jksmeko@roadrunner.com
Next time you take your Honda in for an oil change ask the Service Advisor or Service Manager who performs the oil change. Also ask if the drain plug is hand torqued to the proper lb./ft. torque spec with a torque wrench. Any really good shop should do so.
Every one says we use good quality rated oils. still I would take it to honda even if it is costly because at least I can ask for answers later
Thanks
Upen
IL,Chicago
no, if you go into an auto-supply store, expect to pay about $2.00 to $2.50 for a quart of name-brand 5W-20 oil. you'll need to buy about 5.
for a good oil filter, expect to pay $6.00 to $10.00.
i believe shops have to pay disposal fees they pass along to the consumer, so $12 just doesn't mathematically add up.
i want to say, for the oil (Castrol or Penzoil) and filter (Mobil1) I purchase, it costs a DIYer like me $24-$26 for each change. no, i don't use a new compressible ring for the drain plug each time, but I think honda dealers do. that must add a half-dollar or so.
then there is time.
i value my time... so i do it myself. actually, it gives me a chance to look at stuff on the underside of the cars on a periodic basis, and I KNOW what is going into the vehicle and that I'M getting a new filter.
a dealership is supposed to do a multi-point inspection as well.
to each his own.
I am looking for some inf=sight as to what should I do in this case. I took my car for an oil change and I asked if they see any leaks, because I saw some oli for some time where the engine and the transmission meet. The dealer quote was:
Rear main seal leak : $900
Oil pan gasket leak: $290 ( even though I have replaced this gasket 1 1/2 years ago by a different dealer)
They also suggested doing a power steering flush for $120 and a BG fuel induction service for $ 150 !!!! ( i know this service = $$$ in the dealer's pocket)
Is this a reasonable price for fixing the leaks? and is it possible the oil pan gasket that I replaced has gone bad?
I called another dealer inquiring about a power steering flush, and they told me that they don't do it , as it is not recommended by Honda,
Last time I flushed the power steering was at 64K, so should I do this or not?
any comments or suggestions are highly appreciated.
Just make sure it's snugged up and don't over tighten it.
Is it dripping in your driveway? Do you have to add oil?
If not, I would just keep an eye on it. Thre is a big difference between a gasket or seal that "seeps" a bit and one that really leaks.
And I wouldn't do a flush or the fuel injection service either.
Now, if you haven't replaced your timing belt, you are overdue. this I would do without delay.
a few drops after I park the car, which leads me that it is leaking a few here and there while driving. My commute is 90 miles/day!!
Do you have to add oil? I add around a quart of oil every 3000-4000 miles. The timing belt +water pump was done at 105K miles.
so do you suggest the leak is not severe enough to replace the rear main seal? I'd like to keep the car for another 100K miles if I could and all my driving is highway which is not wearing the engine that much. Yes, its a 6yr old car with tons of miles, but they're all highway miles and it a Honda !
elroy5, just to confirm what you said, so if I had to add half to 3/4 a quart every 4000 miles ( my average oil change interval), then you recommend replacing the seal? If I'm doing this type of work, should I ask them to assess the condition of the clutch plate, pressure plate...etc?
Going back to the oil leak, as far as I can see, I see several drops of oil after I get home and park the car, so I assume the oil is leaking while I was driving?
Regarding the power steering fluid, the Dealer said it is low and contaminated :confuse: and they recommended a flush. Another dealer said don't touch it. I guess it'll be alright if we just add some PS fluid and call it a night? I know [isellhondas] said not to change it, what do you recommend?
I know I am throwing a lot of curve balls out there, but I just want to make a sound decision about these issues.
I said I wouldn't FLUSH it. to me, flush means removing the old fluid under pressure and replacing it. Personally, I would probably just leave it alone.
OK, if it is leaking bad enough to drip on your driveway than that rear main seal and oil pan gasket need to be replaced. I've never heard of having to replace a rear main seal on a Honda but I guess they can go bad. ALL highway miles, huh? That sounds familiar.
And, yes, it's a Honda and it can easily go another 100,000 miles and more.
It would be a good idea to check it while it's apart. I think that would be automatically done, if it's a reputable shop. I would be hesitant in suggesting they do anything extra though (kind of like giving them a way to pad the bill) so that's your call.
Regarding the power steering fluid, the Dealer said it is low and contaminated and they recommended a flush. Another dealer said don't touch it. I guess it'll be alright if we just add some PS fluid and call it a night? I know [isellhondas] said not to change it, what do you recommend?
The price was $170, correct? That is outrageous for that simple procedure (unless it's a lot harder on an 02 than an 03, which I doubt). If they are going to charge you over $100, tell them to shove it, IMO.
If you are standing there with the hood open, the reservoir is closest to the front of the car, on the right (driver's) side.
Happy Hondaing, and welcome to Edmunds.
1. muffler man and they want $370 for parts and labor including gaskets
2. Honda dealer wants $303 parts + $87 labor + gaskets + taxes = $505 dollars.
I priced a muffler on line at Majestic Honda and their price is $158 + shipping and handling. Then I need to install it.
Has anyone purchase a muffler from Majestic Honda? Are they stainless steel like the OEM parts?
Any responses would be appreciated.
Regards
J.