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Does anyone has had their front brake pads last that long ? above 130K + miles?
Just curious
If so, are any of these other parts easy for me to replace myself?
Thanks for your help.
vre3
First, you need to find out what is missing. Spark at the plugs, or fuel in the cylinders. After that has been determined, testing would begin. Can you remove a spark plug?
What factors should be considered besides being on size.
Regards
My first pads lasted 165,000 kms and I changed my front rotors at 225,000 kms.
Again my air bag red light seems to stay on . What is the possible cause.
Reply. Thanks.
The air bag light could be a bunch of things. Fuse, bad ground, bad sensor. You'll need to have the codes read on the SRS system to narrow it down. You could check all the fuses I suppose...I think most SRS systems have more than one. Your owner's manual should help with this part at least.
In any event, with the light on, your air bag is probably not working at the moment.
Thanks
Please reply.
http://autorepair.about.com/cs/doityourself/l/bl_hmr_1.htm
Regards
Corkscrew
Please reply about the air bag.
I wouldn't count on the air bag firing, no. There are two ways to find out, one of which I don't recommend. :P
Just wanted to update you and anybody who's been following this thread that since Jan-19 when the lights went off by themselves, have not come on! This is a great news for me!! I do observe that all the lights are working when I start the car.
I did not bother to check LFI or replace odometer light. But I opened up clock to see if bulb is burnt because the clock doesn't light up. It is burnt. Need to get a new one.
I have one more question but will post a separate thread for it.
Thanks,
VJ
I have 2000 Honda Accord SE wit Automatic transmission. After car warms up in the morn, the idle speed stays about 700-800 rpm. Is it correct?
I find this a bit too high, because while idling if I don't press the break the car starts moving by itself. Clearly fuel flow is high enough for it to keep moving. Should I reduce the idle speed. Will it improve economy?
At most times, gear shifting on this automatic gear box is smooth. But there're times when it is quite jerky. e.g. say we're going downhill at high speed without pressing accelerator and we come stop for taking a turn, now after slowing by great extent, if we apply throttle now, the car doesn't respond immediately. There's a lag in gear engagement. It is as if when we came to stop, the car did not automatically shift down to lower gear to prepare to engage it. After pressing accelerator, it takes a few moments, like 2-3 second gear suddenly engages and car starts moving.
I find this strange. What do you think? Car has about 87,000 miles. I am the third owner.
Thanks everybody,
VJ
The transmission thing now. When I had my 92 Accord, when I came to a stop sign, if I didn't stop the car all the way (0mph), it was like the transmission didn't know what gear to go into. It would hesitate, then take off. If I stopped dry, it would take off normally, in first gear. It did this for 140k miles, and I never had a problem with it, so it wasn't a big deal.
Sorry I can't solve your problems, but I think they are characteristics of the car.
Don't sweat the idle thing; it sounds just right.
what do i do next?
I believe it goes something like this:
With key in OFF position,
Push and hold the trip/reset button.
Keep holding the button, Turn key to II position (seatbelt beep and warning lights come on)
Hold in this position (button pressed, key in II) for 10-15 sec
Your light should be reset for another 7500 miles now.
For the 4-cylinder, every 105k miles.
For the V6, I want to say 60k, but I could be wrong on this one. I'm positive about the 4-cyl though.
I got quotes ranging from $475 to $750 to replace the belts and water pump on my 1996 Accord (you should replace the water pump when you do the timing belt).
If a person waits to do all the 7 yr. 105 k recommended maintenance items at one time, your looking at BIG bucks. I've kind of prioritized them, with the most critical one being timing belt, water pump, seals, drivebelts done together. Next will be replace plugs(and probably wires) and then have the valves adjusted. All together these are about 2k worth of work at the dealer. I just try and spread the cost over a year or so, that way it doesn't sting as much.
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/PartsSearch.jsp
Select your model, year, trim, and research items "Front Door".
Could be a fuse or relay (does she have her manual)?
Then again, could be switch, wire harness, regulator (motor).
Did you try the "lockout switch"? Do any of the other windows move?
Just thought you should know.
thanks in advance,