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It depends on which shop you go to for the maintenance. My advise would be to shop around. The dealership will usually be higher than another local shop, but you have to consider they know more about Accords than other shops do. You could probably find a shop that will only do a few "absolutely necessary" items, and only charge you a couple hundred $$$. Another shop may want to perform "the works", and charge you $700 or more. :surprise:
The alarm keeps going off randomly. Horn goes off, lights flash, yeah.
I know there have been some posts about this before, but I didn't see any resolutions to it.
I can't just leave it unlocked 'cause I have street parking in the city. And for that same reason, of course I can't let it keep going.
There's not some giant moose or something jumping on my car to set it off, 'cause it went off while I was walking away from it in my work parking lot yesterday, haha.
How do I go about adjusting the sensitivity, if that's where the problem is? What else should I check it for?
So... My question is would it be my tranny or something to do with linkage? I'm just upset if its my tranny already. I did everything getting my tune ups every year (that's all I could afford) and getting oil changes everytime I needed one. My mechanic said my tranny is gone. Another friend of mine who is a mechanic said it has to do with a linkage thing. What do you think? I thought if my tranny was gone would it still work in drive? I noticed it slipping a few times driving it. Sometimes it shifted hard too. I'm just bummed cuz I don't have my car I miss it already lol and I just wanna get to the bottom of it. Thanks!
you can do better on the OEM price:
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&cat- - - cgry1=ACCORD&catcgry2=1998&catcgry3=4DR+EXV6&catcgry4=KA4AT&catcgry5=EXHAUST+PIP- - - E+%28V6%29
have you spoken to an independant shop?
personally if it were me with the 98, i'd go with an aftermarket CAT, and since most of these claim exact fit replacement, i'd do it myself (since I have a set of ramps).
if you aren't mechanically inclined and don't have a means of getting the car elevated for a DIY job (in a pinch, one can use the curb :surprise: ) - i'd suggest speaking with an independant shop, asking if they have any experience going aftermarket in that area, then i'd ask how much would it cost for them to replace the unit (labor) if you acquired the part.
caveat: if it was a california model vehicle or operated in california, you might have to go new OEM or perhaps resalvaged OEM. research it.
Good luck.
Roger
you are asking a good question. the vehicle getting louder is generally a sign you have a hole somewhere in the exhaust system.
i know you are not mechanically inclined but you've done the appropriate sleuthing and research. a little more could pay off.
if you lived in a sub-division or know somewhere you could do this:
you could drive your car carefully 1/2 up onto the curb/yard, 1/2 on the street (and when I say 1/2 I mean driver's side on the street, passenger side on the curb/yard). the way to do this (without ramps is to use the driveway entrance, and instead of parallel parking to the curb, drive the passenger 1/2 of the car into the driveway and up on the curb). by doing so, your elevating 1/2 of the car (the whole passenger side) so you can scoot yourself under the car. this is the way you can get under a car without ramps or a lift...
now, put the emergency brake on. wait for the car to cool down (2 hours perhaps).
now scoot under the car on your back. trace the piping from the exhaust manifold down-pipe to the cat and back to the muffler looking for a hole. providing the piping is cold enough (remember how to use your wrist to sense temp before you touch something?) feel the pipe... the hole may not be visible but you can feel it.
look for any hole, disconnected pipe, even a dangling or missing O2 sensor. you know where to go on majestic's site to see the exploded view.
it's possible depending on where the hole is (or if a missing 02 sensor) that your problem isn't the CAT. :shades:
It happened in the summer/fall 2007 and I took it in to the dealer for a day; then an independent shop (for a week). They couldn't replicate the problem. We drove the car for over 1,000 miles during the winter months in Metro Atlanta, GA with few or no problems.
The ignition switch was replaced under the 2002 recall.
A garage I took it to this week said it was the ignition switch. They said their certainty was high. They also said it should go to Honda because they have to program something when they replace the ignition switch.
I spoke to an auto electric shop that someone recommended and he said it didn't sound like the ignition switch. I've read a lot of the forums and I'm frustrated.
We also have a Silencer Security System disabler on the car that was on the car when we bought it new from the dealer.
Thanks,
My '98 Accord has been having some starter problems for the last few months, so we recently took it to a Honda specialist (local mechanic), who replaced the starter. However, when I picked it up, I discovered the following:
1) the left F/R windows will move from the driver's controls
2) the right F/R windows will NOT move from the driver's controls, but WILL move when using the switches on the right side doors
3) the power locks don't work, either from the remote, the lock switches (on either driver or front passenger door), or from manually locking the driver door (which would normally lock all doors simultaneously)
I've checked the fuses and they all seem to be ok. I doubt this is a problem that I could fix myself but I thought I'd ask around. Does it sound like this is something my mechanic broke, or perhaps just forgot to plug something back in, or what? Any insight would be appreciated. Thanks.
-Abby
I believe this is your cure.........sounds crazy but give it a try and let me know.
With key off, turn window wiper speed control to about half way between quick and slow. Turn on wiper switch. Then turn the key to the accessory position and leave it for about 10 seconds. then turn off everything, NOW turn on the key and try the windows and locks. I bet they work.........
I can't find my paperwork on this and if it doesn't work, let me know and I'll try to find more on it.
Good luck,
George
I forgot to tell you.......turn on your window wiper stitch to "intermittent" BEFORE you set it midway between slow and fast. Then turn the ignition switch to "ACC" for several seconds. Everything off and then try your doors and windows.
That should do it.
George
Of course it would never do this for the mechanic, because after driving to the mechanic (who is across town), it would have been running for a while, and the car never did this after it had been running for 15 min or more. I finally had to leave my car with my mechanic so that he could see this for himself. He was not exactly sure what it was, but he gave me a tune up, and it was better for about 4 months. Then it started again, after a trip to Bakersfield, which is an hour and a half each way, my maintenance-required light came on. I have taken it to 2 different mechanics that could not diagnose the problem. It has even been hooked up to the computer that reads the codes, but no code shows up. Also now when I start my car I have to immediately hit the gas or else it will cut off.
I work as a valet and have noticed that most of the Accords (that are the same body style as mine) have their maintenance lights on too. Is this a common problem amongst 1998-2002 Accords??? I really do not want to spend hundreds of dollars on something that might not work. Please help!!! :confuse:
Also, my car just hit 100K and runs very well - EXCEPT - when I have to start the car multiple times within a short period (~ 3 times within 3 - 6 hours). No problem the first time, a bit of sputtering during idle on the 2nd time, and the third time, the car will turn over and rpm's will reach ~2000, then slowly sputter down to a stall. The only way I can manage to start the car is if I give gas for a minute or two before it stalls out. Any ideas?
I have a 2000 Accord SE (2.3L) with 190,000 km (120,000 miles). There is an annoying clunking in the front end that is most heard at slower to average speeds over bumps. I've done the following over the last couple years and am getting fed up with the noise and the costs of changing things that don't correct the noise.
Struts - changed about 2 years ago - reused the springs and there are not cracked, and not sure if the top bushing/plate (or whatever it is) was changed.
Swaybar bushings and links were changed about 6 months ago (front and rear).
Passenger upper ball joint/control arm was changed about 3 months ago.
Front brakes were done about a year ago and are still good.
As far as checking play, etc. I can tell you I've had a few mechanics have a quick look at it while doing other work on it and they say the front end is fine. I think most check the front with the wheels hanging and they don't notice anything. I've gotten fed up and done my own checks and find the noise when the tires are on the ground. If I bang my fist at the top sidewall of the driver tire, I hear a definite clunky rattle. My guess is its the wheel bearing. But I'm not fully sure because when I raise the car and spin the wheels, it doesn't feel ratchety, and I only hear slight humming from the pads on the rotors. There is no grinding or humming when driving the car.
Any thoughts? Thanks in advance.
This happen to me. To make a long story short, I changed the fuel regulator and problem went away. The fuel pressure was not high enough. (Weak regulator) Cost me 45$
Hope this helps
In Southern CA I just did my 105K reccommended maint for my V6 2002 Accord, it included timing belt, water pump, outside belts incl AC compressor belt and power steering belt, spark plugs, oil change w/filter, coolant replaced and including labor was quoted anywhere from $1200-$1300, upon review, they also recomm. replacing my leaking hydrolic tensioner and right motor mount (parts only), and the total was $1531.63.
We last week did 120000 miles recommended maintenance on V6/ 2000 Accord SE 4 Dr in IL, Chicago and replaced timing belt/water pump as well. Our expenses are 1015$
The Accord V6 did not come in an SE model until 2007. Is it a 4-cylinder?
I'm paying $427 for timing belt replacement, water pump replacement, and the antifreeze on my 1996 Accord LX 4-cyl Automatic. 180k miles. The other quote I got was $720.
I'm sure there are some high mileage owners here and I'd appreciate any input on what I should expect from this car. It only needs to last another 18 mths and another 15-20K miles. Price will be $4000
It would alarm on its own daytime and nighttime. I went to start the car one morning, and could not get the car out of Park. I had to use the shift release. I also notice the horn and my cruise control stop working at the same time. The fuse for the cruise control is OK and horn relay OK. Is there a common relay or something that works together with the shift release,cruise control and horn maybe tide in with the alarm and where I can find it?
That needs to be does not mean owner did it ! so make sure old owner did it and ask when ? otherwise it will be you next expense if owner did it 100000 miles earlier.
Also why not try a Car Check from some mechanics. Either you will have to pay minor amount or nothing at all. I checked my 93000 miles Honda accord when I bought it (from meineke they did it free)
Any ideas
Don't have time to work on it today.
Does anyone know if it is better to reset ( and how?) it or wait till it goes off by itself, assuming the problem was the gas cap.
Thanks a bunch!!
02 Accord 140K