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Honda Accord (1998-2002) Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    you checked fuses. how about relays? one thing you can do is swap relays for the Driver's Side door with the Passenger's (providing the part number is the same). If the window works after that, well... you've found what needs replacing.
  • daniellerene9daniellerene9 Member Posts: 1
    did you ever figure out the problem?? because i have a 1998 accord as well with 196,000 miles, and it just started doing the same thing a couple weeks ago. its like it will be fine for a few days and then have a bad day, but its weird because it starts right back up.
  • jm72jm72 Member Posts: 1
    I need to know what to expect and what the reccomended maintance would be for a 2000 Honda Accord that has just hit 75,000 miles...
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    I need to know what to expect and what the reccomended maintance would be for a 2000 Honda Accord that has just hit 75,000 miles...

    It depends on which shop you go to for the maintenance. My advise would be to shop around. The dealership will usually be higher than another local shop, but you have to consider they know more about Accords than other shops do. You could probably find a shop that will only do a few "absolutely necessary" items, and only charge you a couple hundred $$$. Another shop may want to perform "the works", and charge you $700 or more. :surprise:
  • holycrappitsjoholycrappitsjo Member Posts: 2
    I bought a 2002 Honda Accord SE about 9 months ago,

    The alarm keeps going off randomly. Horn goes off, lights flash, yeah.
    I know there have been some posts about this before, but I didn't see any resolutions to it.
    I can't just leave it unlocked 'cause I have street parking in the city. And for that same reason, of course I can't let it keep going.
    There's not some giant moose or something jumping on my car to set it off, 'cause it went off while I was walking away from it in my work parking lot yesterday, haha.

    How do I go about adjusting the sensitivity, if that's where the problem is? What else should I check it for?
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    The first thing I'd do is check your battery, making sure it still has a proper amount of juice.
  • mentiyamentiya Member Posts: 17
    Hello. I have a 1998 Honda Accord ex V-6 with a check engine light coming on reading a code of p420. So I know that I need to get a new catalytic converter but my question is what kind do I get? I spoke with Honda and their part is about $800.00 and then labor, tax, etc. Total would be around $1,100.00. I spoke with other shops and their total would be around $4-$600.00 depending on whether or not I replace the 2 O2 sensors. I have always gotten Honda parts put on my car, because I have learned my lesson the hard way before. The only thing is this part is really expensive and I am wondering if I purchase an aftermarket part, will it hold up as well? The aftermarket has a 5yr. warrenty/50,000 mi. but in my mind I shouldn't have to replace it again. Anyway, if anyone has suggestions on going with a Honda catylitic converter or not a Honda, I would love to hear from you. In the mean time, I am driving it but not as much for fear of possibly damaging other engine components? Thanks, Heather
  • gygglzgygglz Member Posts: 1
    I have a '99 honda accord lx. I have had it for two years. Yesterday when I went to put it in reverse it made a grinding noise. I thought if it lightly put on some gas it would maybe catch but it just idled high and made the same grinding noise and wouldn't move. All my drives work from D4 to my lowest gear which is 1. I even put it in my lowest gear moved a lil and slowly put it in reverse but it still made the noise.

    So... My question is would it be my tranny or something to do with linkage? I'm just upset if its my tranny already. I did everything getting my tune ups every year (that's all I could afford) and getting oil changes everytime I needed one. My mechanic said my tranny is gone. Another friend of mine who is a mechanic said it has to do with a linkage thing. What do you think? I thought if my tranny was gone would it still work in drive? I noticed it slipping a few times driving it. Sometimes it shifted hard too. I'm just bummed cuz I don't have my car I miss it already lol and I just wanna get to the bottom of it. Thanks!
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    yeah, not cheap.

    you can do better on the OEM price:
    http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&cat- - - cgry1=ACCORD&catcgry2=1998&catcgry3=4DR+EXV6&catcgry4=KA4AT&catcgry5=EXHAUST+PIP- - - E+%28V6%29

    have you spoken to an independant shop?

    personally if it were me with the 98, i'd go with an aftermarket CAT, and since most of these claim exact fit replacement, i'd do it myself (since I have a set of ramps).

    if you aren't mechanically inclined and don't have a means of getting the car elevated for a DIY job (in a pinch, one can use the curb :surprise: ) - i'd suggest speaking with an independant shop, asking if they have any experience going aftermarket in that area, then i'd ask how much would it cost for them to replace the unit (labor) if you acquired the part.

    caveat: if it was a california model vehicle or operated in california, you might have to go new OEM or perhaps resalvaged OEM. research it.
  • ivicaivica Member Posts: 34
    I recently had the same problem. My honda is a 4 cylinder. I bough the OEM catalytic converter from Majestic Honda in Rhode Island. the Cat is about 400 dollars, plus shipping. I purchased a new Catalytic converter, A pipe, oxygen sensor all hardware, hangers and heat shields. I took it all to the local muffler shop and for $100 plus tax they installed all. The car sounds great, no check engine light. I don't believe in after market parts. In my prelude many years back I went with after market exhausts and the car sounded like crap, I swore I would never do it again. The Honda stainless parts are a good quality part. The guys at the muffler shop even commented that the parts are of good quality compared to what they install.

    Good luck.
  • rdj9212rdj9212 Member Posts: 1
    That was easy on the passenger side how about the drivers side

    Roger
  • mentiyamentiya Member Posts: 17
    Hey, I just want to say thank you for your help. I am not too mechanically inclined, however I am learning. It has been 4 months since my check engine light first came on and just recently it sounds like my car is getting a little louder. I have been trying to get as much information on this as I can and have been debating about an after market cat or a Honda cat. I know a mechanic and he has a Honda book (can't remember the name of it) where he can order a Honda cat for around $560.00. I think I am going to go that route after hearing you talk about your after market experience. I take really good care of my car and am not comfortable taking any shortcuts on it or cheaping out, however I am all about shopping around to get the best deal on a good quality part:) I did check Majestic Honda and I think the cat was around $600.00? I was also questioning whether I could purchase my own parts and then pay a shop to install, I wasn't sure if you could do that, so thanks for mentioning that. I think $560 isn't too bad considering all the Honda dealerships that I have contacted have quoted me $762.00 to $1,100.00 just for the cat itself! Then $84/hr. labor on top of that. I really want to thank everyone that responded to my message as I have read your advice and information carefully, and you have helped me in my decision making. Thanks again, and if you have anymore help to offer it would be greatly appreciated:) Heather
  • mentiyamentiya Member Posts: 17
    Oh, I think I forgot to ask this...but if the catylitic converter gets too clogged ( if that is the case) would my car start to sound a little louder? Or would that be related to one of my mufflers? Thanks again, Heather:)
  • lusilklusilk Member Posts: 2
    You need to change your hood latch. There is a sensor in hood latch, which gets screwed up, has to be changed. I had a 100%same problem, middle of the night alarm would come on. I got it from a wrecker, changed it, now I can lock the car and also sleep at night. Good Luck
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    heather,
    you are asking a good question. the vehicle getting louder is generally a sign you have a hole somewhere in the exhaust system.

    i know you are not mechanically inclined but you've done the appropriate sleuthing and research. a little more could pay off.

    if you lived in a sub-division or know somewhere you could do this:

    you could drive your car carefully 1/2 up onto the curb/yard, 1/2 on the street (and when I say 1/2 I mean driver's side on the street, passenger side on the curb/yard). the way to do this (without ramps is to use the driveway entrance, and instead of parallel parking to the curb, drive the passenger 1/2 of the car into the driveway and up on the curb). by doing so, your elevating 1/2 of the car (the whole passenger side) so you can scoot yourself under the car. this is the way you can get under a car without ramps or a lift...

    now, put the emergency brake on. wait for the car to cool down (2 hours perhaps).

    now scoot under the car on your back. trace the piping from the exhaust manifold down-pipe to the cat and back to the muffler looking for a hole. providing the piping is cold enough (remember how to use your wrist to sense temp before you touch something?) feel the pipe... the hole may not be visible but you can feel it.

    look for any hole, disconnected pipe, even a dangling or missing O2 sensor. you know where to go on majestic's site to see the exploded view.

    it's possible depending on where the hole is (or if a missing 02 sensor) that your problem isn't the CAT. :shades:
  • mentiyamentiya Member Posts: 17
    Thank you, I will give this a try. My car isn't excessively loud but I notice a different sound when I am driving...just doesn't sound like it did before. Nevertheless I will check the exhaust system for a hole and check the O2 sensors. I still had that code P0420 from when my check engine light came on back in January. That is not a specific code for anything is it? Just the emissions system.....Honda read the code and said I need a new CAT and left it at that. Well, I guess before I get too carried away trying to figure this out, first things first....I will check like you said for hole or anything that doesn't look right. Thanks again for taking the time to help. Heather:)
  • lusilklusilk Member Posts: 2
    I suggeted you to change the hood latch assembly, that has a sensor, which screws up. Get it from a wrecker and fix your problem.
  • jazzchazjazzchaz Member Posts: 19
    i recently purchased, and after 5 days, check engine lite came on, and code PO171 (lean bank 1..?) exhibited....any idea what the fix is?
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Either the O2 Sensor is reading wrong, or the engine is running lean (bad mixture or starving for air). Have you checked the air filter, or for vacume leaks?
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    also....airflow sensor, intake maniforl gasket
  • jazzchazjazzchaz Member Posts: 19
    ...thank you friends, i'll address these tips.....chaz
  • dharg1970dharg1970 Member Posts: 3
    We have a 1999 Accord (97K miles) that cuts off while driving. The flashing "green key" and a blank lcd odometer display are the only indications on the dash. The radio still works. It is worse the past few weeks with the warmer weather. It may take 4 - 6 attempts to restart.

    It happened in the summer/fall 2007 and I took it in to the dealer for a day; then an independent shop (for a week). They couldn't replicate the problem. We drove the car for over 1,000 miles during the winter months in Metro Atlanta, GA with few or no problems.

    The ignition switch was replaced under the 2002 recall.

    A garage I took it to this week said it was the ignition switch. They said their certainty was high. They also said it should go to Honda because they have to program something when they replace the ignition switch.

    I spoke to an auto electric shop that someone recommended and he said it didn't sound like the ignition switch. I've read a lot of the forums and I'm frustrated.

    We also have a Silencer Security System disabler on the car that was on the car when we bought it new from the dealer.

    Thanks,
  • gaskins27gaskins27 Member Posts: 1
    Just a disclaimer - I am NOT a car person! I wish I were, but sadly mechanics intimidate the crap out of me. Anyway...

    My '98 Accord has been having some starter problems for the last few months, so we recently took it to a Honda specialist (local mechanic), who replaced the starter. However, when I picked it up, I discovered the following:

    1) the left F/R windows will move from the driver's controls
    2) the right F/R windows will NOT move from the driver's controls, but WILL move when using the switches on the right side doors
    3) the power locks don't work, either from the remote, the lock switches (on either driver or front passenger door), or from manually locking the driver door (which would normally lock all doors simultaneously)

    I've checked the fuses and they all seem to be ok. I doubt this is a problem that I could fix myself but I thought I'd ask around. Does it sound like this is something my mechanic broke, or perhaps just forgot to plug something back in, or what? Any insight would be appreciated. Thanks.

    -Abby
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Since the starter wires are nowhere near the door switch wires, I think something may have gone wrong when the battery was disconnected or reconnected before and after the starter change.
  • georgew1georgew1 Member Posts: 31
    Abby,

    I believe this is your cure.........sounds crazy but give it a try and let me know.
    With key off, turn window wiper speed control to about half way between quick and slow. Turn on wiper switch. Then turn the key to the accessory position and leave it for about 10 seconds. then turn off everything, NOW turn on the key and try the windows and locks. I bet they work.........
    I can't find my paperwork on this and if it doesn't work, let me know and I'll try to find more on it.
    Good luck,
    George
  • georgew1georgew1 Member Posts: 31
    Abby,
    I forgot to tell you.......turn on your window wiper stitch to "intermittent" BEFORE you set it midway between slow and fast. Then turn the ignition switch to "ACC" for several seconds. Everything off and then try your doors and windows.
    That should do it.
    George
  • ilovemyhondailovemyhonda Member Posts: 2
    I've owned my 1998 4 cylinder Honda Accord for a bout 2 1/2 years, and since I got it, it has had this problem which no one can seem to solve. It started off by cutting off when driving my car after it had been sitting for a long period of time (like overnight). When I would push the accelerator the car would shake a little and just cut off (which has put me in some pretty dangerous situations). I found that if I felt the car shake I could prevent it from cutting off by giving it more gas (which works most of the time).

    Of course it would never do this for the mechanic, because after driving to the mechanic (who is across town), it would have been running for a while, and the car never did this after it had been running for 15 min or more. I finally had to leave my car with my mechanic so that he could see this for himself. He was not exactly sure what it was, but he gave me a tune up, and it was better for about 4 months. Then it started again, after a trip to Bakersfield, which is an hour and a half each way, my maintenance-required light came on. I have taken it to 2 different mechanics that could not diagnose the problem. It has even been hooked up to the computer that reads the codes, but no code shows up. Also now when I start my car I have to immediately hit the gas or else it will cut off.

    I work as a valet and have noticed that most of the Accords (that are the same body style as mine) have their maintenance lights on too. Is this a common problem amongst 1998-2002 Accords??? I really do not want to spend hundreds of dollars on something that might not work. Please help!!! :confuse:
  • mistry125mistry125 Member Posts: 1
    I'm getting some pretty high quotes for a timing belt, water pump and tension assembly replacement and wanted to see if this is in line with the current market rates. Also, I'm getting this done in Manhattan which will surely add an unnecessary premium, but I have no choice. Getting an average of $925 for the three parts including labor. Some additional work will be done such as cam seals and something with the crankshaft (?). Does this sound way out of line?

    Also, my car just hit 100K and runs very well - EXCEPT - when I have to start the car multiple times within a short period (~ 3 times within 3 - 6 hours). No problem the first time, a bit of sputtering during idle on the 2nd time, and the third time, the car will turn over and rpm's will reach ~2000, then slowly sputter down to a stall. The only way I can manage to start the car is if I give gas for a minute or two before it stalls out. Any ideas?
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    The "Main't Req'd" light just indicates that it has not been reset in 7500 miles. You must (or the dealer should) reset the maintenance required indicator at oil changes. It illuminates when it is time for your next service; every 7500 miles. This is NOT the same thing as a check engine light, and explains why no codes show up.
  • mcolamcola Member Posts: 1
    I'm new and this is my first posting.
    I have a 2000 Accord SE (2.3L) with 190,000 km (120,000 miles). There is an annoying clunking in the front end that is most heard at slower to average speeds over bumps. I've done the following over the last couple years and am getting fed up with the noise and the costs of changing things that don't correct the noise.

    Struts - changed about 2 years ago - reused the springs and there are not cracked, and not sure if the top bushing/plate (or whatever it is) was changed.

    Swaybar bushings and links were changed about 6 months ago (front and rear).

    Passenger upper ball joint/control arm was changed about 3 months ago.

    Front brakes were done about a year ago and are still good.

    As far as checking play, etc. I can tell you I've had a few mechanics have a quick look at it while doing other work on it and they say the front end is fine. I think most check the front with the wheels hanging and they don't notice anything. I've gotten fed up and done my own checks and find the noise when the tires are on the ground. If I bang my fist at the top sidewall of the driver tire, I hear a definite clunky rattle. My guess is its the wheel bearing. But I'm not fully sure because when I raise the car and spin the wheels, it doesn't feel ratchety, and I only hear slight humming from the pads on the rotors. There is no grinding or humming when driving the car.

    Any thoughts? Thanks in advance.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Sounds like ball joints to me. The have not worn out, so they will not show signs of looseness, but the grease is gone, so they will make the scrunching sound at slow speeds going over things like speed bumps. Honda really should have put grease zerks on the ball joints. :(
  • tj111tj111 Member Posts: 5
    I have the same car.
    This happen to me. To make a long story short, I changed the fuel regulator and problem went away. The fuel pressure was not high enough. (Weak regulator) Cost me 45$
    Hope this helps
  • wolfkittywolfkitty Member Posts: 1
    MINSTRY125-
    In Southern CA I just did my 105K reccommended maint for my V6 2002 Accord, it included timing belt, water pump, outside belts incl AC compressor belt and power steering belt, spark plugs, oil change w/filter, coolant replaced and including labor was quoted anywhere from $1200-$1300, upon review, they also recomm. replacing my leaking hydrolic tensioner and right motor mount (parts only), and the total was $1531.63.
  • upengan78upengan78 Member Posts: 21
    Hi

    We last week did 120000 miles recommended maintenance on V6/ 2000 Accord SE 4 Dr in IL, Chicago and replaced timing belt/water pump as well. Our expenses are 1015$
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    We last week did 120000 miles recommended maintenance on V6/ 2000 Accord SE 4 Dr in IL, Chicago and replaced timing belt/water pump as well. Our expenses are 1015$

    The Accord V6 did not come in an SE model until 2007. Is it a 4-cylinder?

    I'm paying $427 for timing belt replacement, water pump replacement, and the antifreeze on my 1996 Accord LX 4-cyl Automatic. 180k miles. The other quote I got was $720.
  • mentiyamentiya Member Posts: 17
    Hey, I could not take listening to that low rumbling sound coming from my car anymore, so on the way to the gym I stopped off at an automechanic shop and the guy rode with me and immediately said I think you have a bad wheel bearing on your rear passenger wheel. Oh, what a relief....this whole time I had been thinking the noise was coming from my CAT and it is quite obvious now as I am listening to it that it is from the wheel. I guess I was too focused on getting that catylitic converter replaced that I ruled out anything else. I am sure eventually I will need a new CAT, because that code P0420 did come up twice but the light hasn't come on again. So for now I am getting the wheel bearing hub replaced which is not that expensive. I feel blessed that this problem was quickly diagnosed and is being repaired as I type this:) Thank you again for all of your help as I do appreciate it. Oh, and I did have my car put up on a lift while I was at the shop and they showed me the underside. That was the first time I have seen underneath of my car and I thought it was pretty cool. It looked great! The guy showed me the CAT and the 02 sensor, which is mounted in the rear of the CAT. Very interesting. Thanks again, Heather:)
  • upengan78upengan78 Member Posts: 21
    EX V6 4 Speed Automatic :P
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    wow, good to know you got what was truly needed fixed and in the process, learned something. i wish you happy and safe motoring. :shades:
  • tj111tj111 Member Posts: 5
    To reset the maintenance light. Hold down on the odometer reset button on your panel and turn the ignition switch to on. Wait till you see the maintenance light go out. About 30 seconds
  • tomk17tomk17 Member Posts: 135
    I'm looking a 98 Accord EX (4 cyl) for my new driver daughter. I've had several Honda's including a 98 Odyssey and a 04 CRV. Both great cars with no problems. This Accord is an adult 1 owner car, great shape, and very well maintained with fresh tune-up. It does however have 175K miles. I will check the service records but the timing belt / water pump were obviously done and most likely many other items. I would be buying it thru a reputable wholesaler who I've worked with in the past - he knows the owner.

    I'm sure there are some high mileage owners here and I'd appreciate any input on what I should expect from this car. It only needs to last another 18 mths and another 15-20K miles. Price will be $4000
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    $4,000 may seem like a lot for a 10 year old car, with that many miles on it, but if the car is in good shape, and was maintained well, it's worth it. Kelly Blue Book should give you some idea what the car is worth, but it's not as accurate on older cars, IMO. 18 months should be no problem, but nothing is a sure thing. Used cars are always a gamble, but I think this car is a safe bet.
  • tj111tj111 Member Posts: 5
    I own a 98 Honda Accord Ex 4 cyl with an OEM factory alarm.

    It would alarm on its own daytime and nighttime. I went to start the car one morning, and could not get the car out of Park. I had to use the shift release. I also notice the horn and my cruise control stop working at the same time. The fuse for the cruise control is OK and horn relay OK. Is there a common relay or something that works together with the shift release,cruise control and horn maybe tide in with the alarm and where I can find it?
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    One question. Do your brake lights work (press brake pedal and tail lights light up, release pedal, they go out)?
  • ilovemyhondailovemyhonda Member Posts: 2
    Nice to know!!!! :shades:
  • upengan78upengan78 Member Posts: 21
    I will check the service records but the timing belt / water pump were obviously done and most likely many other items.

    That needs to be does not mean owner did it ! so make sure old owner did it and ask when ? otherwise it will be you next expense if owner did it 100000 miles earlier.

    Also why not try a Car Check from some mechanics. Either you will have to pay minor amount or nothing at all. I checked my 93000 miles Honda accord when I bought it (from meineke they did it free)
  • tj111tj111 Member Posts: 5
    Your right. I went to check my brake lights today and they are not working.
    Any ideas
  • tj111tj111 Member Posts: 5
    I changed the fuse for the brake lights and my shift release, brake lights are working again. I'll check my cruise control out on the highway later. Pretty sure it will work. Only one problem. when I go to honk the horn, I keep blowing fuses and only when I honk the horn. The only other thing I did was disconnect the plug for the hood latch sensor for the OEM alarm. Read this was the problem that is causing my alarm to go off. Thought I try leaving it disconnected instead of replacing it. Car being 10 years old, don't care much for this alarm anymore. Do you think that this could be the problem?
    Don't have time to work on it today.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    The "brake position switch" is the part I know of that operates the brake lights, and releases the shift lever. The switch is located near the brake pedal arm. The lower dash panel may have to be removed to see the switch. It may just need to be adjusted. Don't know about the fuse blowing problem, sorry.
  • zakimanzakiman Member Posts: 71
    CEL came on a two daysa go and I was able to read the code P1456. I replaced the gas cap, and the CEL is still ON. Does it reset itself after a while?

    Does anyone know if it is better to reset ( and how?) it or wait till it goes off by itself, assuming the problem was the gas cap.

    Thanks a bunch!!
    02 Accord 140K
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    If the problem was the gas cap, it should reset itself (in a couple of drives). If you were to disconnect the battery negative cable to reset the computer, make sure you have the radio code.
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