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Thanks Guys
Are you putting this in yourself? or are you looking for a shop at some unknown city?
Prices range from $245.00 - $300.00.
Will be replacing myself as it's located on exhaust manifold (pretty easy swap to do).
Heres some for $140-150
$150.00 IS MUCH BETTER.
I know that, duh. But aren't these ULEV cars only sold in Cali.? (maybe a couple other places too). That means special O2 sensors, that cost $633.99.
Bernadi online sells for $218.
I would get an OEM for this part.
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&cat- cgry1=ACCORD&catcgry2=2001&catcgry3=2DR+LX+UL&catcgry4=KL4AT&catcgry5=EXHAUST+MA- NIFOLD+%28ULEV%29
If you don't want to post all that script for a link, just use the "URL" button at the bottom of the post box.
Hit it once, and then paste in the URL you have between the quote marks, and then erase the "link title" and put in any words you want to describe the link.
Then hit URL again, and you'll get a hot link with just your words highlighted.
Visiting Meddling Host :P
suggested:
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread/1490107
Last time I cleared the CEL & Code in my 94 Integra, I lost
the tape deck player operation. I didn't have the code for
the radio.
Anyone know about this one? Last night my 2002 accord sedan car alarm went off at 3:45am. I turned it off, and 10 minutes later it went off again. Then this evening, it happened again. This time it shut off on it's own after about a minute.
What might be the problem? cost to fix? And ... I usually go to the dealer, but it's pricey, and I'm wondering if this is something any car repair could fix easily?
Thanks for any suggestions--
Betsy
> different occasions, I go to start my car and it begins to turn over
> but never fully kicks off. The next day I am able to start it up with
> no problems. I have taken it to Honda and a local mechanic and neither
> can find a problem. I don't want to fix something that might not be
> broken, but I also don't want a car that is unreliable and could leave
> me stranded. Has anyone else ever experienced this? :confuse:
http://techauto.awardspace.com/index.html#overview
Regards,
Corkscrew
http://techauto.awardspace.com/index.html#overview
Regards,
Corkscrew
Moisture:
* Engine cranks but won't start when it rains.
* Signs of moisture on the ignition wire.
* Shutoff the car and come back a couple hours later will start.
* see humid.html for details.
Open the glove box and check on the inner side of its door for the numbers. They should be pasted right there. Good luck, Bird55
the radio.
The dealer will need this number to get the radio code.
Older models don't have the number in the box.
The radio may have to be taken out to get the serial #.
I just took a right turn on state st and I am suddenly seeing , Battery light + Brake Light + 4 Door light + trunk light on and they are continuously staying on. car running on and I can stop engine and restart and drive the car...
I checked doors and handbrake and trunk none of those are such that the panel light for them should lighten up.
Can somone throw some light on this issue ? is this an indication of something ?
Honda accord 2000, 4 Dr, V6, 3.0 L Car model...130000 Miles and recently changed timing belt and water pump 2/3 months back(5000miles)
so i took myself out of bed early in the morning went to autozone who then made me go to another of their branch but when I asked the guy he said , brake fluid or brake rotor may have an issue and door lock switch may have broken and he could have that inspected but I asked him again do u think it is alternator ? then he checked and it was showing 12.6 and diminishing , he confirmed it is alternator..
bought one for $187 and got it immeditely replaced from a mechanic autozone guy recommended + $60 but Autozone took my old one back so -$25 and I am done by 10:30 am and I have no more unnecessary lights in panel but mechanic dropped some transmission fluid and asked me to change it
I don't know if I could do it myself-transmission fluid but surely alternator was the issue.
Thanks
When driving on the highway I get this squeaking noise coming from the right wheel on the passenger side. It starts sometimes when I am going downhill between 40 - 65 mph. Once I hit the brakes, the noise goers away. Is this a symptom of worn brake pads or is it something else?
Thanks for any comments.
Went through this in my '96 back in 2003. Got 131k on my front pads. You beat me!
Must be a lot of highway, eh?
Yes 148K miles with the original front pads is amazing (knock on wood), I've got to thank my lucky stars for that! and Yes, lots of highway driving.
Thanks a lot.
How they work
If I was buying your car without knowing any service history, I'd replace everything (the calipers, rotors, and pads) and be done with it. Those things are all relatively cheap, particularly if you do it yourself.
The rotors can warp with heat, causing pulsation. If the brake pads wear down to metal, then they can get scratched and ruined. Some people cut off the top layer of metal with a lathe, but that makes them thinner and more prone to warpage. They are cheap, so the cost for new approaches the labor to cut....so I just replace them.
The calipers, without brake fluid changes, get crud and moisture in them, and when the piston is pushed back in (to make room for the thicker new brake pad), the piston begins to bind internally, and the brake pads then don't 'release', so they rub continually against the rotor, it starts to overheat and then warp. You'll also smell the brake pad heat. The pads will wear out quickly, and the braking capability reduces significantly.
All three of these parts are relatively cheap to replace, and my view is if at all in doubt....just replace them. With 150K miles, I'd personally just spend a couple hundred bucks and replace everything. You'll have great smooth braking capabilities, and won't have to worry about anything for a couple years. To me, it's just not worth the hassle..... to not do it right the first time.
#1: The front rotors and pads are the original since I bought the car so there is 148K miles on them. If the front rotors could be machined when I put the new pads, should I turn the rotors OR should I *still* replace the rotors?
#2: Is it necessary to go to the dealer for this type of work so they can use Honda parts or using after market parts would be just as good?
many thanks to everyone ..
It is not necessary to go to a dealer for this, brake work is common maintenance that any shop can and will do. I've done it myself for years, but since you're asking I don't sense you feel handy.
I've always bought replacement parts at local chain auto chains (Pep Boys, AutoZone, etc), and never have had a problem. Here again, some people feel the dealer parts are superior and pay that premium, that's another personal decision. I buy dealer parts only when it's a specific part not carried by the chains, OR...it's transmission fluid or radiator coolant. We've got over a million miles on our vehicles over the years.
It also kinda of jolts or shudders...when in gears 1-3
Yesterday, I accidently hit the power window switch on the rear driver side window. I heard like a thump - loud enough for me to look back (I was parked) but not too loud -just loud enough to surprise me. Realizing what I did, I just tried to get it up again. The window would not go up. Tried it again, it went up halfway, then stopped (the motor sounded fine). I played with it a little, then it went all the way up, then on its own, came done 3 inches (with the motor working - did not just fall), even though I did not press the button. Happened a few times like this. I swear. Eventually I got it up, where I left it.
Today, I felt brave and tried to duplicate it. Worked perfectly several times. PERFECT. All the other windows worked fine and the motors sound fine.
I have tape on it so I don't hit it. Others think I am crazy, but I figure something is going. Any ideas.
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/tsb/accord/A99-085.pdf