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Honda Accord (1998-2002) Maintenance and Repair

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  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    suspecting the motor is coming loose in the door, loosing connection with the window moving mechanism.
  • rickytz7111rickytz7111 Member Posts: 6
    Let me try to make a long story short. The other night I was going to change out the rotors and pads on the front disc brakes of my 99 accord lx 4cyl. I noticed that the lugs were kind of warm and the caliper was pretty warm as well, it had been sitting for about 1 hour or maybe a little less. I didn't think much about it. Well I got the new rotors installed along with the pads took it for a test drive and everything seemed fine. Well tonight I was out driving it I noticed a smell I didn't know what it was. When I got back to the house it was the front brakes. The lug nuts were so hot you couldn't touch them for a second with out getting burned. The rim felt fine as well as the tire. I called a friend and he told me try jacking the car up and spin the tire and have someone stop and try to spin the tire right after they release the brake to make sure the caliper wasn't catching or holding. I did that and it spun like a champ. So I don't think it's the calipers catching. He mentioned something about a check valve when you push in the piston on the rotor. He said if you do it to quickly that it does something with that check valve. Do Hondas have that check valve? His next advice was to bleed the brakes and see if that check valve would reset itself. Have you guys heard of that? Or do you think it is the calipers catching? What else do you think could be causing the problem? What should I do first? Thanks for any help
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Normally I'd suspect the front calipers need replaced, but you indicate the wheels spin easily after brakes applied.

    Do a similar test with the rear brakes, but also make sure the brakes are applying when you press the pedal. Perhaps you have a proportioning valve problem where the rear brakes aren't applying, and the fronts are forced to do all of the stopping..
  • rickytz7111rickytz7111 Member Posts: 6
    Yes it is very odd to me. I will try that test when I get home. I also plan to bleed all the brakes to see if some gunk os in the line. I would say calipers to but normally one goes bad, but both of these are getting hot that is why I think it's something else. Thanks
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Has your brake fluid ever been changed? Brake fluid absorbs moisture over time, and this moisture can cause the fluid to boil, expand, and apply braking force. Then when the fluid cools down, the brakes release normally again. Are you using the right type of fluid (DOT 3 from a sealed container)?
  • rickytz7111rickytz7111 Member Posts: 6
    I have been having hot brakes. Tonight I jacked up the car and put it in drive to see if one of the calipers was grabbing. The drivers side was fine however the passenger side was sticking or I thought. I had a friend of mine give it some gas. The half shaft on the passneger side didn't even turn until he got the engine at about 3k in rpm. He never put the brake on and the drivers side turned with no problem. The passenger side wouldn't turn at all in idle. So I turned the rotor and it was not sticking at all. The half shaft felt very loose to me on the passneger side. What would cause one half shaft to turn but not the other? It's like only having the drives side is doing any work. Thanks for any inputs.
  • therivertheriver Member Posts: 70
    Do you think that is something that could be handled by someone who is handy - but not in taking about car doors. I guess the real issue is how hard is it to take off the panel, etc.

    thanks
  • activex111activex111 Member Posts: 41
    Hi,
    I started feeling a jolt on my 99 V6 Accord when i move from drive to reverse or vice versa. Suspecting broken engine mounts, took it to the mechanic and he said none of the engine mounts are broken but they have gone weak, and suggested replacing all. almost $750 for all (my car has 130K miles).
    has anyone had to replace the engine mounts because they are weak and not broken ? Also, if i do not replace it, will that affect any other parts? any suggestion/feedback is welcome. thanks in advance..
  • blufz1blufz1 Member Posts: 2,045
    Take it to the Honda dealer and get a second opinion and bid.
  • stuckonhondasstuckonhondas Member Posts: 1
    A couple weeks ago my car started not wanting to take off once I stopped at traffic lights. I would press the gas but it would only inch up at about 5 mph. I also noticed that the "P" & "D4" lights would both be lit up, and then all lights would go out to none of them lit up. After a few seconds of crawling, the car would then just take off like normal. Tonight, I went to start the car, and it would not start. Both the "P" & "D4" lights are on at the same time. When I turn the car to just the "On" position, there is something that is going "click, click, click". I turned the car off, sit for a couple minutes, turn it to the "On" position again, and I hear the "click click click" sound again. I then tried to turn it all the way to start, but it still would not start. It's turning over like it wants to start, but won't start. Just bought a brand new battery last week, so it's not the battery. Plus the radio and clock is working. There also seems to be some type of "fume" smell inside the car when I hear the "clicking". Thanks in advance for any help you can provide to help me figure this out.
  • hiskid1973hiskid1973 Member Posts: 8
    I'm not sure how this works, do you just jump in? I recently got my first Honda, a 2002
    Accord EX.... I am a diy type for easier jobs...I have a noisy alternator/compressor belt.
    Some belt lube made it worse...It it an easy replacement? Can someone point me to a picture and tools neeeded page on the web..It is a 4 cyl. v-tech.

    Thanks...............God Bless You.................K
  • notthereyetnotthereyet Member Posts: 6
    98 Accord Sedan EX-V6 auto. 85k. good shape. well-maintained. The dashboard red lights that indicate the doors, trunk, hood, and brake are on constantly. The battery indicator is on, too. Just before this happened, Dome light was left on without my knowledge :mad: and drained the battery. One jump started the car, then drove about two hours with all the dashboard lights still on. Dome light (now) acts normal. Car seems to drive normal so far. Concerned that a (electrical) gremlin is about to show that may strand me. What should I check to attempt to get ahead of any potential gremlins? Thanks for reading.
  • chucko3chucko3 Member Posts: 793
    If you have a volt meter, measure the battery. It shoud have
    above 12V DC. Below that, you have a weak/failing battery (not fully charged or holding the charge)
    With the engine on, measure the battery. It should have above
    14V DC. If not, you have a failed alternator. If above 14V,
    you have a failed battery.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    I believe there is a door control unit, separate from the main computer. The loss of power may have caused what you might say is a computer error. I would try disconnecting the battery for a couple of minutes (negative/black only required), effectively re-booting the computer. If that doesn't work, there is probably a relay (Honda is the king of relays) or fuse that might be the problem.
  • upengan78upengan78 Member Posts: 21
    Hi,

    I very recently same sort of issue with my honda accord EX2000 v6. the problem was alternator, replaced it and things are fine since then.
  • willis3willis3 Member Posts: 76
    Anyone here know how I can repair this. I have a Magellan GPS, the plug is really snug and I think it pulled the socket connection out a bit. I no longer get power through this outlet. If anyone has worked with this, please share. Thanks.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Check for a blown fuse.
  • bwooster47bwooster47 Member Posts: 9
    There are plenty of messages with auto-transmission problems on the Accords, here's my story.
    1999 EX-V6, with over 130,000 miles.

    Just starting to slip going from stop into the first gear. When this happens, usually a rev up over 1500 rpm gets it into gear, and then can proceed.

    Transmission shop said, replace transmission! That is an over $2000 repair :-(

    Cheaper to buy some other car - has Honda fixed their auto transmission problems, will go in for a cheaper civic.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    yes kiawah is right, check for a blown fuse. If not that, then you've pulled the wire out of the back of the socket and you're going to have to dig in there are re-connect it.

    This is a very common problem as these accessory plugs have to be a precise fit, and some manufacturers are better at this than others. Automakers have even issued advisories on this problem.
  • obi3iceobi3ice Member Posts: 16
    Hi please can anyone tell me what the reason is why the check engine light won't come off when i turn on the ignition.
    Normally it's suppose to comme on then go off before starting the engine.
    Anyone know the reason why?
    Obi3ice.
  • obi3iceobi3ice Member Posts: 16
    I mean come on....
    obi3ice
  • blufz1blufz1 Member Posts: 2,045
    Change the ATF using Honda brand fluid and see if that helps.
  • willis3willis3 Member Posts: 76
    The fuse is okay, so I think it's the actual connection. The socket is loose, so I probably lost the connection in the back. Anyone know how to repair this? Do I need to remove the entire section to work on this?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Yeah you have to dig into the console there. Probably like most there are hidden screws to discover. Maybe other owners have done this and can tell you how exactly.
  • sirus270sirus270 Member Posts: 2
    Hello,

    i have a 98 accord coupe V6 Ex,and the intire dash lighting is out including the climate control lighting,and the gear select lighting as well,i checked all fuses and relays and all of them were GOOD,can someone point me in the right direction b4 i start dumping tons of money into this car,also the horn is out as well.
  • kipkkipk Member Posts: 1,576
    There are several threads dedicated to "Accord Maintenance and Repairs". You might have better luck there. This one includes you year model, but one of the others may also help. "Honda Accord (1998-2002) Maintenance and Repair"

    http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/WebX/.efdf921/0

    FWIW, a while back I purchased a new boat and trailer. Picked them up at the dealer, and when I got home the Pilot's tail lights were no longer working. There may have also been other affected, but I was focused on the tail lights. Checked the fuses behind the kick panel an the driver side. Also under the hood. All fuses were good.

    In desperation I got out the owners manual and discovered there is another gaggle of fuses behind the kick panel on the passenger side. The blown fuse was there.

    Found the shorted wire on the trailer and all worked well after making those repairs.

    NOTE: I had disconnected the battery during the hunt to keep from blowing any other fuses. The next several tanks of gas went in the crapper.
    Local driving dropped from averaging 18 +/- mpg to 14 +/- mpg. Driving style/conditions had not changed and the car ran and idled fine. Long story short, I did the ILP (Idle Learn Procedure) and the mileage returned to normal. The Technical Service Bulletin stated the ILP is part of the dealer "Get Ready" procedures and should be re done whenever the battery or certain fuses are are disconnected or the battery goes dead.

    FWIW, If the ILP was not done at the dealer or not done properly, individual cars may get poor mileage. Some folks don't believe that. I do, because it worked for me, and some folks on other forums that have tried it. .

    Live and learn!

    Kip
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    Thanks Kip, you're right about where the poster is more likely to get some help so I moved that post and your response here, the discussion you linked. :)
  • sirus270sirus270 Member Posts: 2
    Hello,

    i have a 98 accord coupe,and the entire back lighting to the dash is out,including the climate control lighting and the shift select lighting as well,i checked all fuses inside of both boxes all were fine none blown also i took the horn off ran it to the battery it work,but just not from the steering wheel. any input on these issues?
  • rdigaetanordigaetano Member Posts: 1
    Looking for help I just purchased a 2002 Honda accord 4cyl Auto for my 2o yr old daughter. Her boyfriend told her that this car has transmission problems. I drove ot and it drives great, shifts up just as good as any car i have driven. the problem she states is that when she takes her foot off of the gas around 20- 25 mph the idle drops, but the car does not stall. She states there was a recall on the transmission but I can't find it .. Any Help at all would be nice.. Thanks DiGga
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    To be honest, it simply sounds like the car is going from 2nd gear to 3rd. It should around that speed.

    Also, the transmission problems, if I recall correctly, were on V6 models. My grandmother has a 2002 Accord LX (4-cyl Auto) and to my knowledge hasn't had recall worked performed on it. Also, it drives like it did when brand new (it has 94k miles on it), and gets great mileage (average about 22-23 in very short-trips/city driving).
  • robsterrobster Member Posts: 12
    I have a 1999 Accord EX with 4 cyl eng with approx 111K mi. I recently began to notice a high pitched squeaking noise that i assume is coming from the starter when I start the car up. The noise lasts for a split second and stops. I've been paying close attention to make sure I'm not holding the ignition key in the start position too long. Is this noise the beginning signs that the starter needs replaced or are there other things that could be causing this? If the starter needs replaced, does anyone have any experience with what Honda dealers charge for replacing starters on a "99 Accord EX?
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Disconnect the accessories belt first, and start it to make sure the problem isn't with one of the belt driven accessories before you go yanking the starter out. You need a little more troubleshooting to really confirm what the problem is.
  • jazzchazjazzchaz Member Posts: 19
    my 2000 Accord EX with 88k on it is exhibiting a whine at start-up which used to go away after about 5min. but is now permanent....is it a whine or a squeal?....of which i suspect is the alternator wearing.
  • oscollieoscollie Member Posts: 2
    I am replacing the timing belt and balancer belt on my 2002 Honda Accord. The
    thing that is I can't figure out is the direction to hold the balancer shaft with a
    screw driver thru the access hole at the rear of the engine. Would holding the
    front balancer shaft produce the same result?
  • aduncanaduncan Member Posts: 1
    The Fan works just fine. but the A/C panel controls work only part time. When the control panel lights are on every thang works fine. then the lights will go out and then neather the A/C or tjhe Heat will work, the fan still works just fine. What is going on?
  • mentiyamentiya Member Posts: 17
    I just recently took my car in to get a wheel alignment and was told that I need a new drivers side ball joint. The mechanic showed me the upper ball joint and how it moved and said that it was not supposed to do that. I have a 98 Honda Accord with 133,000 miles and was wondering is this just normal wear as I don't think I have had a ball joint replaced before. Any advice on whether I should go with an OEM or an aftermarket part for my car? Also, are there any recalls on this part at all? Thank you.
  • blufz1blufz1 Member Posts: 2,045
    Get a second opinion from a Honda dealer.
  • tokzzytokzzy Member Posts: 1
    I own a honda accord 98 with manual transmission. Belts have just been replace and should be ok. But after a week, i noticed that the transmission is not engaging immediately. When accelerating on right after changing gears, the car feels like not engaging totally, but after two or three seconds, it engages totally that sometimes it would jerk up. Also, during idle, engine running, it sounded like the engine is going to die but it doesn't. It happens randomly. Any possible problems my car have? Thanks for your help.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Worn/Slipping clutch?
  • booogbooog Member Posts: 8
    On my 2002 Accord, the blower fan doesn't work on speed levels 1 & 2, but does at 3 & 4. I've been told it's either the switch, or a resistor pack. Which one should I start with and where is the resistor pack?
  • 2000accordse2000accordse Member Posts: 10
    To begin with, I got my engine oil changed at a Honda dealer about 2-3 weeks ago.

    In last couple of days, I noticed that my maintenance required light was flashing for a while after engine starts and then it would go away. Since I had recently changed my engine oil. I did not really pay attention. Today, after work, when I started the car the same thing happened. However, after driving for a while, CEL light came on D4 started flashing. I did not experience any loss of power, but I thought something could be wrong with 4th gear, so I shifted to D3 and continued driving, as I was very close to home. I did not really find any loss of power. There was no loud boom of gear shift.

    However, the background story is at about 90000miles, the Honda dealer where I used to get my oil changed said that there was a problem with transmission. I have Guardian Warranty Corp's transmission warranty of one year or 14000 miles. Currently, car is in warranty, I think I will need to check. So they contacted Guardian. And Guardian responded but they wanted to install used tranny. I did not like their response at all. Because they gave me some info on used tranny and honda dealer gave me a different mileage info for the same replacement tranny. Thtat's because Guardian asked that Honda dealer to acquire a used tranny locally.. I went to a few different mechanics,but they did not find any code. I drove about 300 miles to see if there was any code. None.. Right now car is 95500 or so. I have not experienced any major changes in last 5000 miles except the gear change was not very smooth in last one month or so, that may be b/c i delayed engine oil change..

    Tomorrow, I am planning to take up my car to a near by mechanic, but before I do, would anyone please advise what all these means? The flashing D4. I hope not get in with tranny replacement, b/c that would suck.

    Please help and let me know your suggestions.

    Thanks
  • chucko3chucko3 Member Posts: 793
    Your maintenance light might need a reset.
    Same flashing with my 2003 Accord. It will stay on steady
    after a few days.
    CEL & D4. Have you checked the tranny fluid?
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Don't know your Honda specifically, but resistor packs in vehicles are almost always in the air plenum, under the dash, on the passenger side, right by the squirrel cage blower motor. It uses the air from the blower motor to cool the resistor pack as it gets very hot. Look for the squirrel cage motor, and then check for a set of wires going into the plenum near the outer diameter of the motor fanblades.
  • 2000accordse2000accordse Member Posts: 10
    chucko3:
    Thanks for a quick reply.
    I just figured this maintenance light resetting procedure from owner's manual:
    1. Turn off the engine
    2. Press and hold the select/reset button in instrument panel, then turn ignition switch ON (II).
    3. Hold the buttons for about ten second, until indicator resets.

    I will try this out after a while.

    About tranny fluid: I am assuming that honda dealer would have checked. But I will check that again.

    I really don't wanna spend $3000+ in tranny, in this $6700 car!!

    If I don't experience any power loss, does it mean that tranny is not malfunctioning?

    Thanks
  • cantankerouscantankerous Member Posts: 4
    I just replaced an upper ball joint at 162000 miles on a 1998 Accord. Replacement part was made by Moog. Purchased at Advanced Auto Parts for about $50, They had cheaper units . Advanced also "Loaned" the tool set to crush the old one out - and press the new one in. I have an electric impact wrench made by Rigid tools, which helped immensely! Using the impact wrench the entire job took about two hours. My symptom was that with the car jacked up, I could wobble the tire top to bottom by about1/2 inch. Similar to the looseness your alignment shop may have shown you? I could also feel some torque steer when I would accellerate.because of the "wobble". The car steers much better with the new upper driver side ball joint.
  • chucko3chucko3 Member Posts: 793
    CEL & Flashing D4 may not be an indication of tranny problem.
    Until you get the code, it's hard to tell.
    Check this site to see if there is any TSB for tranny
    issue for 2000 Accord.
    http://www.hondaaccordforum.com/recalls-and-tsbs/make_HONDA/year_2000/TSB.htm
  • booogbooog Member Posts: 8
    This may have been the easiest fix I've ever done. The resistor pack is just under the glove box. Two screws, unplug the wires, and put in the new one. The lower speeds now work. Resistor pack wasn't cheap thought, $100.
  • dgrgedgrge Member Posts: 9
    I have an 01 accord and the dash light behind the fuel gauge is out. I was told you have to remove the dash to replace it by the dealer and it runs $200.00 to fix due to labor. Is the dash difficult to remove or it this better left to the dealer? Where can I get instructions on how to remove the dash?
  • mc3dahmc3dah Member Posts: 6
    Hello all: I own a 2000 Accord EX, 4 cyl-auto, that has a gremlin in the electrical system. I am looking for some ideas on where to look for the problem.

    When either turn signal is activated, and the park or head lights are on, when you then step on the brake, turning brake lights on, the turn signal quits blinking. If you turn the lights off, or let off the brake, the blinkers will work properly. (Three of three- they won't blink, two of three, they blink.)

    I searched other posts and noticed a few similar problems, but I couldn't find any solutions. I will be grateful for any advice.

    Thanks,
    David
  • maxwellssonmaxwellsson Member Posts: 1
    I am having a similar problem with my 98. the engine shuts down and can start right back up by itself or may be hard to restart. today it did it twice. Could this have to do with the EGR port clogging issue. My car has 218,000 miles. I thought this was more of an electricial problem. Savannah1, what did you find out?
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