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Honda Accord (1998-2002) Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • savannah1savannah1 Member Posts: 6
    Well I took it in and after getting a new fuel injector, gas cap, catalytic convertor and it dying again right after I picked up I took it back and got a new egr valve. It hasn't died yet, mine is also a 98 and has 170,000 miles on it
  • zakimanzakiman Member Posts: 71
    This may sound like a no brainer question but is 32 psi a good number for tires on a 2002 accord? or are there numbers for Winter and summer?

    Many thanks,
    zaki
  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Member Posts: 823
    Take a look on the driver's door jam. The correct tire pressure should be posted on a sticker there. The time of year doesn't matter, but the tire pressure will be lower when the temp drops.

    Mrbill
  • nagireddyshivanagireddyshiva Member Posts: 1
    I just had the battery replaced and the audio system has been reset and I have no idea how to configure it whatsoever. I need some serious help. If anyone has knowledge please help as soon as possible. :cry:
  • kguzzettakguzzetta Member Posts: 1
    Thanks for this, this exact same situation just happened to me. I'll have to get it right into the shop before it dies. Really an odd set of symptoms for a bad Alt., and mine only had 69k miles on it. Seems like it should last much longer than that.
  • BlackPantherBlackPanther Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 honda accord this morning i was not able to find my keys to turn it so i was upset i had to get to work and i tried to crank it up with a screwdriver but did not realize that they have a sensor to start up the car and i think i broke the sensor i ended up finding the key this afternoon and when i try to turn it on it sounds like it wants to turn on but it wont is there anything i can do and wont cost much money to get it fix please help!!!!!!
  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Member Posts: 823
    Um, did you actually try to start your car with a screwdriver?

    Mrbill
  • daylldayll Member Posts: 26
    When I turn the A/C on in my 98 V6 Accord and am sitting for ten seconds or so at idle there is suddenly a low rumbling sound and the idle speed slows. The A/C still seems to be working fine except for the 'rumble' noise. Also, as soon as I accelerate away the noise stops. Any ideas? Thanks in advance. - dayll
  • veruca108veruca108 Member Posts: 1
    2000accordse, did you ever figure out why your D4 was blinking? This same thing just happened to my 2002 EX last night... D4 started blinking and it wouldn't down shift... I was driving about 70mph when I noticed it... at 4000rpms. I slowed down, pulled into a gas station, turned the car off then on again and it's been ok. This happened a few days after I reset my maintenance required light. Any suggestions?
  • renaldogrenaldog Member Posts: 2
    Hello everyone. I need advice and suggestions from anyone please! I have a 2002 Accord EX 4cyl with about 130k miles. The road noise has become unbearable. The guys at work call it my 18 wheeler! The problem has really gotten bad the last 15k or so. It sounds like i have 2 flats up front or like the axle is going to fall off at any time. The vibration does not go through my steering wheel but makes everything rattle all the way up to the moonroof. The funny part is the car still rides as smooth as silk. But the road noise is so loud it drowns out conversations! Please, if anyone has a fix I will name my firstborn after you!
  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Member Posts: 823
    You may be correct that your axle(s) are ready to fall off. A bad CV joint can create a lot of vibration and noise. They usually start off as making a clicking noise when turning corners, but I'm guessing yours are far beyond that.

    It's something you want to have looked at ASAP before one fails and leaves you stranded.

    Mrbill
  • renaldogrenaldog Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the input. I was thinking the cv joints as well but it never made the "clicking" noise that im familiar with. Thats what's so perplexing. I think I'll have my mechanic replace those first since it's somewhat inexpensive. Thanks again for the input.
  • blufz1blufz1 Member Posts: 2,045
    Aside from the mechanical,consider a "quiet" set of tires next time. I got some Goodyear Assurance Comfortreads and they quieted and smoothed the ride of my 02 V. Lost some handling and about 1-1.5 mpg vs. the oem Michelins but at least I am not being "beaten" anymore.
  • DrPunchoutDrPunchout Member Posts: 3
    My '98 Accord Coupe, bought new, with 125K miles, began to get very poor gas mileage a few months ago, about 10 mpg or less. The dealer did major tune up, then put it on computer which showed the fuel mixture and everything else that it read to be just right. There are no fuel leaks, no smoke, no skips or hesitations, no dysfunctional performance. Dealer sent computer readout to Honda engineers in California. They had no solution or solutions other than to suggest that my driving habits must have changed--which is untrue. After that, the dealer gave up, saying there is nothing more they can do. An independent mechanic tried replacing the oxygen sensor, to no avail.
    Now no one has any suggestion except to marvel at the mystery. Can anyone help?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Quite mysterious. If I were in your shoes, I'd consider putting the car on a dynamometer at say a really good tuning shop, one that modifies cars, changes fuel maps, re-flashes ECUs etc. This issue may be way over the dealer's head and it needs a real tech to fish it out.

    The laws of physics dictates that either you are not burning all the fuel that goes into the engine, that it is leaking out, or that your combustion process is very weak, mis-timed or somehow completely out of whack. I can't imagine your catalytic converter is very happy about this either.

    Or, if you want to be the true scientist, let someone else drive your car and calculate their gas mileage. This will eliminate you as the problem. (or find you guilty as charged) :P
  • 2000accordse2000accordse Member Posts: 10
    veruca108:
    With flashing D4 I reached home and did not use car from 17:00 to next day 11:00. But when I started the next day, D4 stopped flashing. Car appeared to work normally but I drove rather cautiously, driving such that gear shifts smoothly. However CEL light was on. I took it to one repairer, but they could not communicate with the computer. Since I did not hear any loud boom or any extreme jerky shifting (and that's wat I told this repairer), they said not to worry about CEL. And I started using car with CEL on. But I noticed that the car would shift quite jerkily when it is cold. After it warms up nicely, it would shift normally (kind of).

    After about a week, I began to think if transmission failed at inopportune time, it would be great pain. So I took the car to the transmission place, who look up codes for free. They found P0700 and P0780. P0780 means, there's a need for transmission replacement and upshift many not happen. Now I was sure that I needed transmission replacement.

    While searching online I came across a site that said that 2000 accords have transmission problems and if you contacted Honda they may cover you by something called as good will repair or extended warranty. I contacted Honda, they asked me to get the car diagnosed at a Honda dealership. I paid US$104 just to pull out codes. Now the extended warranty works for earlier of the following: 7 years since the in-service date of car or 109000miles (instead of 100000miles). My car is in its 8th year(i am the third owner), but has 96666 miles on it. So I did not qualify for extended warranty. Honda remanufactured tranny and replacing the bad tranny altogether would cost about $3200 at a honda dealership. However, the remfg tranny will have 3 year or 36000 mile whichever is earlier warranty on it.

    The dealrship guy was extrememly nice and helpful. He talked to Honda. And American Honda agreed to pay 60% of the cost. Which would leave me with about $1500 to pay for transmission, which is a pretty good deal.

    Further, I had bought warranty of Guardian Warranty Crop(GWC) on my tranny when I first bought the car. This is good for 1 year or14,500 miles. Honda dealrship guy contacted GWC. And they were initially reluctant to honor. They asked me to leave the car with dealership for their inspector to check if there was a really problem with tranny. I rented car from Honda dealership for $35/day unlimited mileage. Because I don't have another car and I wanted to have my independent car instead of being dependent on someone else for a ride. GWC sent their inspector/adjuster and concluded that tranny needed replacemnt. They had asked Honda dealrship to look for a used tranny. Dlrship found an 80000 mile tranny with 31 day warranty (which is usual and compare it with 3 years of Honda remfg tranny).

    Then the Honda dearlship guy talked to GWC about Honda's offer. GWC decided to take up part of expenditure (because the used tranny was costing them about 1700 dollars, while with Honda offer they had to take up little less than that).

    In the end, I had pay about $159.00 dollars for replacment of Honda re- manufactured tranny.

    However, here's the kicker, either GWC decided to pay full of total expenditure minus Honda's share, or probably the Honda guy miscalculated, but in the end I had to pay $0.00 for the entire transmission replacement.

    What I did have to pay were car rental, and diagnostic test fees.

    My biggest thanks to Honda dearlship guy, who did all the talking and communicating with both Honda and GWC, second thanks to Honda for standing by their product and third to GWC, who agreed to honor their warranty (which I did not think they would do, considering I have only 8 days left before their warranty expires) and in the end thanks to God, the almighty. :)

    Merry Christmas!

    Hope this helps to all.

    I am going to repost Honda goodwill warranty stuff as a separate msg, too!
  • savannah1savannah1 Member Posts: 6
    I'd ask the tech to look at your eye valve. I had to get a new on bc I was getting 13 mpg and smelling gas strongly when I would be aroud my car and not at a gas station. Turns out it was the eye valve, it was clogged beyond cleaning
  • jazzchazjazzchaz Member Posts: 19
    ....i believe what you're experiencing is a worn hub(s?) assembly, and the sound is from the bearings in that assy that have channeled a new groove in the race of the worn bearing...this is a very common noise in most vehicles when this occurs
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    what's an eye valve? :confuse:
  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Member Posts: 823
    One other thing I would check is the tires. If they are cupped, they can make alot of noise and vibration.

    Mrbill
  • DrPunchoutDrPunchout Member Posts: 3
    Would it also be over the head of the " Honda engineers at the factory in California who designed that engine" which is where the flak catcher at the dealer said he sent the readout of the computer and from which I got no suggestions?

    Catylytic converter had been checked and is okay. There is no sign or smell of gasoline under the hood or under the car.

    Where would I look for a "real tech" or a really good tuning shop.

    Also, someone else driving my car could eliminate my driving style as a variable but I don't believe anyone could get the 23-28 mpg I got consistently for the first 9.5 years I drove it.

    Thanks for your help. punchout
  • nlsnls Member Posts: 65
    According to the manual, there are two bulbs on each side, is one of them for the low beam and the other for the high beam, or is one filament in both bulbs for the low beam, with another filament for the high beam? Are there two fuses, one for each set of bulbs?
  • mrfrugal1mrfrugal1 Member Posts: 1
    I also have a 1998 Honda Accord and I am also having problems with the key light that goes on while driving and the the door locks make a noise like I'm unlocking the door and then the car shuts off.So as you can see this can be very dangerous. I am having the key not work at first sometimes and this doesnt happen everytime I take it out for a drive.
    Can someone please tell me what the problem is.My father said to switch keys and that could be the problem.I did as he said and the problem continued.
  • lrholrho Member Posts: 1
    Hi,
    On my 2001 LX V6 Accord "Check" and "TSC" lights started coming on simultaneously recently. To be exact, "check" is followed by "TSC" but interval is barely noticeable, less than a second. If I switch off the car and turn on again, the "TSC" light is gone. "Check" stays on for 3 trips and then goes off. For some time the car drives with no lights and then the story repeats. I've read codes, it is P0401, ie insufficient EGR flow. It maybe clogging indeed but does not make sense to me as 1) I live in California where gas is supposed to be clean enough to cause clogging 8 mm diam port; 2) I use regular plus gas and 3) "TCS" light comes on along with "check", none of these lights come on alone. It shouldn't happen with EGR port clogged according to Honda's service bulletin. Also, I noticed that they come on almost exactly at the same time since I start driving a COLD car (eg in the morning or after work) as if something warms up, tries to open (close) and fails. It may point out at EGR flow. I've replaced EGR valve, the car ran ok for 350 miles and then story with the lights repeated.
    My car used to have so called "8/80" warranty for the EGR system, but I have driven over 100K now, so I have to beg Honda to do job on the allegedly clogged port under their goodwill program or pay out of my pocket. In any case I need to have my car inspected by a dealer. I'm reluctant to do that as I fear a dealer may find number of problems, and I have no way to figure out if they are real.
    The car runs as if nothing is happening. Could it be, in your opinion or knowledge, some kind of computer or communication problem and are there ways to find it out? Thanks
  • upengan78upengan78 Member Posts: 21
    Hello,
    I do not have a solution for your problem. but I am going to take this opportunity to share my experience which is pretty similar (only I feel:)

    My car Honda Accord 2000 EX v6 3.0. Miles driven - 129000 miles.. all maintenance was done timely - alternator, timing belt, water pump has also been changed 5-10000 miles before.

    I drove car from (8AM)Chicago to Piegon forge, TN (5PM)- my first stop was at seymore,IN around 12:30PM and after that continuous drive till Pigeon forge, TN @ 5PM. when I reached I could not find my hotel so I decided to park car infront of a shop! after 5-10 minutes of walk, I came back to car tried to start the car it did not start, tried to start car many times for 10-15 minutes it did not start,it just felt it will start and but did not continue, after a long struggle it finally started drove 10-15Feet and stopped again..tried again this time I could drive till hotel 1000Feet away. stopped at hotel and again same problem, finally it started but I pressed accelarator pedal so that engine does not stop( don't know if this is right)

    (I remember I had put BP gas full tank somewhere after seymore...)

    when the car finally started at hotel, the CHECK ENGINE LIGHT WO?ULD COME ON- but now the car would start on the first attempt itself.

    I took the car to 2-3 miles far - autozone and he gave some codes P0301 - P0310 - telling me misfiring issue. He also gave Lucas bottle $5 which I put completely in GAS tank and drove away to some place 20 miles away (CHECK ENGINE LIGHT still ON) then after 2 hours I returned and started the car the Check Engine light did not come on and never after that...I cleared the other Maintenance required light using pressing the button and ignition..

    I faced same issue after 2 days at some mall in pigeon forge, somehow felt that engine oild temp. was not coming down even if the car is not started, it was like at level less than 50% on the oil temp gauge. Also while driving car in any gear the engine RPMs never went into RED zone.

    I still don't know what was the issue for engine light on, was it gas can cap or lucas cleared all issues or there is still a problem.

    Also I found on Indiana interstate highway roads there is lot of sound from car - I wonder if it was due to road quality. Sound also came while going to TN.

    Any suggestions are welcome, I have already decided to do 3000 miles oil change but this time at honda(due next week)

    Thanks for reading my story!
  • savannah1savannah1 Member Posts: 6
    This is exactly what happens to my car. I got an EGR valve and it didn't do it for over 2 months but on my way back to Louisiana from Arkansas I shut off on the interstate! The first 2 times I had to pull over and restart it but the third time it happened when I pulled onto the shoulder the car just restarted on it's own before I even came to a stop so curiously I pressed the gas and it went...?..so I just got back on the interstate. This is a very dangerous problem and I've taken to the shop twice the first time I bought a new catalytic converter, fuel injector, gas cap, and fuel filter(it shut off on my way home from the shop). I took it back and got the EGR valve and it went 2 months without dying but now it has started again...?
  • darkchaos1darkchaos1 Member Posts: 1
    I have this problem with my 99' Honda Accord and i was wondering if any one can fix it. For some reason when i put my gear shift to D4 and then look at my dashboard it's suppose to lit up right? But for some reason it doesn't light up but all the other light up like the park,reverse, D3,2,1 but only the D4 doesnt light up. Can anyone help me fix this problem? Thanks
  • jdcampjdcamp Member Posts: 3
    I'm looking to replace the headlights on my 1998 Accord as they are seeming a bit dim. I'm trying to determine if anyone has much experience with these Xenon, LED, Halo, etc... replacements. Right now I'm leaning toward a simple OEM replacement, but want to make an informed decision. I'm not worried much about appearance. I just want some lights that are bright enough to light up deer standing just off the road.
  • jdcampjdcamp Member Posts: 3
    I was just looking at replacement bulbs for my 1998 accord and someone was selling a set of 4 bulbs where they described 2 as the high beams and 2 as the low beams.
  • quikjabquikjab Member Posts: 1
    I'm interested in a 2002 Honda Accord EX Coupe that has 140,000. I know that's about 20K per year if it was purchased late in 2001. That's more miles than it should have, but I know Hondas are so reliable I'm considering it. What major maintenance should I make sure it's had other than standard oil changes and check ups? I've inquired about the timing belt and whether it has been replaced. Is there anything else? Would any reccommend I stay away from this car because of its mileage? Also, I found it for just under $6K, almost $3K below blue book.

    Thanks!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I'ts not really "below" book. $6,000 is private party retail pricing for a V6, and actually about $1,000 too much for a 4 cylinder car. The high mileage requires at least a $1,500--1800 reduction in price from listed book value.

    The car might be fine and have some life left in it, but at 140K all parts of the car are vulnerable to failure. Best to have it thoroughly checked out. Look for oil leaks, signs of exhaust system failure and shock/strut failure (typical at this mileage) and be sure to play with all the knobs and switches...ALL of them!
  • upengan78upengan78 Member Posts: 21
    hi quikjab,

    I have 2000 accord EX v6, just would like to share my 2 cents,

    I have driven it upto 129000 miles till today, major maintenance to me after 100000 miles
    1. alternator
    2. timing belt + water pump
    3. tires - all 4 replaced
    4. replace brake pads - all 4
    5. problems while turning so drive shaft or greasing work was done.
    6. Please drive the car at night and see if all dash board lights turn on properly and you can see readings.
    7. getting hold of manual and reading it before hand would be good idea in order to learn what big maintenance is due in future or near future..

    just my experience but I am sure seniors here will guide properly..

    Thank you for reading..and good luck
  • DrPunchoutDrPunchout Member Posts: 3
    I love my '98 coupe. Shortcomings are it is hard to see out of, toward rear, and mine suddenly started getting less than 10 mpg at about 120K miles with no help from Honda or any mechanic so far. That is why I posted on this site. EG its not for sale. I would go with the other advice and get it checked out by independent mechanic, should cost about $100 and include compression test. My transmission went out just beyond warranty (50K?) but Honda replaced it at no cost to me. so that particular one might be vulnerable. Good luck. PS I still need help with my mysterious 10 mpg. Dr Punchout.
  • cmykalcmykal Member Posts: 2
    I own a 2002 Honda Accord V6 coupe which I've had for the past 2 years. The engine started vibrating about 3 days ago. I had the spark plugs replaced, the engine was still vibrating. Is this caused by bad sensors, manufacturer ignition system problem (p1399), or bad motor mounts?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    You might want to have the codes read to look for a "misfire" trouble code. Generally speaking, if the engine is idling slowly in neutral, bad motor mounts wouldn't show up very much---unless they were just about broken---in which case you'd feel this while driving.

    So I'm guessing that you have perhaps a misfire, or a vacuum leak that is messing up the fuel mixture?

    See if a quick scan will reveal anything.
  • cmykalcmykal Member Posts: 2
    I recently had my vehicle tested under one of those code scanners, the scanner read one code which was p1399 which stated "manufacturer ignition system"? Like you said, it could be a misfire or vacuum leak. If by chance it's a misfire or vacuum leak, how much a repair job like this would cost?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Gee hard to say, Could be something quite simple really. Probably most of the cost is the diagnostic time.
  • LaSelvaEXLaSelvaEX Member Posts: 1
    The drivers seat on my 2dr has excessive movement that is comming from above the upper half of the seat track. I have about 1.5 inches of movement when pushed at the headrest. The sliding track has the proper clearance but I do not know the cause? I did notice that the movement is from the area of the seat track that the seat motors are attached to. Any help would be appreciated
    Thanks,
    Dana
  • zakimanzakiman Member Posts: 71
    I'd like to get some input on two questions before I start repair:

    The dealer told me that my front engine mount is starting to crack. I changed the brakes and rotors on Nov 2008 at a honda independent shop and they did not mention anything about the front enfgine mount.
    I looked at the mount and did not see any cracks. Does anyone know how to diagnose this problem and how to I know if I need to replace the mount.?
    Does the crack appears more in the rubber piece or should I look somewhere else?

    Also they mentioned the brake pads sensors ( on the front ) were installed upside down. They said the sensor should be on the top not the bottom. Is this a big deal if it is the case? I assume the independent honda sho installed them correctly, well maybe I shouldn't assume anything :-)

    I greatly appreciate any feedback,
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    I have only a limited time to reply, so all I'll say is that engine mounts and brakes aren't two things that would normally be looked over at the same time, so the fact that the people who did your brakes didn't see it is a moot point in my personal opinion.

    Also, engine mounts do give out over time. I imagine one of our illustrious edmunds posters would detail the procedure for checking them.

    Best regards,
    the grad
  • zakimanzakiman Member Posts: 71
    That sounds good, I'd love to get some feedback about the front engine mount question and the front pads sensors.

    Like I said, the mount looks fine to me when I looked at it, I did not see any cracks unless the rubber is worn.

    The fact that the pads sensors are on the bottom may not be a big deal ( just my guess). Because the service advisor told me , well when your front brakes are worn then the sensor will not let you know that. Geez, my front pads lasted 150K miles, so by the next time I need new brakes, it may be time for another car :)

    The engine mount problem is making me a bit concerned though!

    thanks for your time & sorry for my rant!
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    The wear indicators (on the pads) should be on the top part of the pad, but it's not a big deal. Are you experiencing excessive vibration? A sign of broken mounts.
  • zakimanzakiman Member Posts: 71
    > Are you experiencing excessive vibration?

    You mean in the engine or the steering wheel. No I am not experiencing any vibration at all.

    the front engine mount is the one on the right side of the engine, correct?
    Because there is another mount right where the transmission and the engine meet, I assume that one is the tranny mount.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    I would think the front motor mount is the one closest to the front of the car (I may be wrong). If you want to test the engine mounts, you can do this. Get someone to stand to the side of the open hood (not in front, you don't want them to get run over), and watch the engine. Put the car in gear, hold the brake down firmly, and give the engine a little gas (very little). If the engine moves a considerable distance (rocks over on the mounts), the broken mount will be obvious. If you are not getting a lot of vibration, and the engine doesn't move around during the test, I would not worry too much about the mount at this time.

    PS: I just noticed you have a manual, so you may have to use the emergency brake to do the mount test.
  • dadasmattadadasmatta Member Posts: 12
    I too have a similar loud, constant, rumbling noise problem coming from the left rear side of my 2006 Accord EX. The noise begins at about 20 mph and heightens when going 50-60 mph. I know it is not exhaust related because the noise remains loud and constant when I shift the car to Neutral at 50 mph. I am of the belief I have a bad rear wheel bearing. The car shifts smoothly so I don't believe the noise is transmission related. Besides, the noise is clearly coming from the left rear side of the vehicle.
    What was the source of your noise problem?
    Thanks.
  • indio0617indio0617 Member Posts: 1
    Hi All.

    I am new to this forum and would like some guidance and input from all you experts. 3 days back I bought a 01 EX-V6 Accord which has done only 70k miles. It is single owned and maintained immaculately so far.

    Just two days back I learnt that 2000 & 2001 Accords have had many transmission problems. Apparently Honda has a 7yr 9month / 109000 warranty on transmissions because of this. Even though I have only 70k on my car, I only have about 4 months left on the warranty for the transmission. How will Honda Customer Service behave on the warranty clause when the time (7yr 9 month) is up, but if I have still not done the 109000 miles. Will they be flexible if some transmission problem comes up ?

    The dealer tried to sell some warranty, but I refused to buy it at the time of purchase. I cannot go back and buy it from him now.

    Do you all think I should / can purchase some warranty from some one. If so, can you all suggest some reasonable price / plans. I am in a dilemma. Thought a used Accord will be less of a headache among used cars. Please advise.

    Thanks.
  • obi3iceobi3ice Member Posts: 16
    Hi guys. Sorry to disturb but am kinda distrubed right now.
    I have an accord 1998 model. When not in motion and the car is idling, the rev meter regulates.
    As in it drops below 1000rpm and then steadys to 1000rpm.
    This happens continuously and my check engine light is not on.
    What could be the problem of this drop all the time? The car is moving well and fires well.
    Am kinda disturbed because its so usual. Have had the car for 2 years now and the mileage is 120k miles.
    Please any help will be appreciated.
    Thanks.
    Obi-TL
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Might be a slight vacuum leak, or the idle air control valve (IAC). But check for vacuum leaks first.
  • AZIZ16AZIZ16 Member Posts: 2
    I HAVE A VEHICLE HONDA EX V6 YEAR 2000 I WANT TO KNOW IF IT IS POSSIBLE TO ADJUST A GAS LPG PARALLEL TO THE ENGINE :confuse:
  • bajajoesbajajoes Member Posts: 48
    I have a 2001 Accord coupe 4cyl,5spd manual trans. My "maybe" problem is that when I start the car after it is cold it runs and sounds normal for 3 minutes. Then it starts sounding like lifters or something is not being lubricated. After running about 5 minutes and warming up fully the sound dissappears. I have had the car checked by both Honda and an independent mechanic who cannot determine what it is but they indicated that they did not think it was serious. It sounds very much like lifters that are not being lubricated but noone said that. It has been that way since I bought the car used a year ago. If anyone has any thoughts I'd love to read them.
    Thanks, Baja Joe :confuse:
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