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Honda Accord (1998-2002) Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Member Posts: 823
    Is the noise a metal "tap tap tap" noise or is it more of a "hollow knock" sound? Do a Google search on "PISTON SLAP" and see if the descriptions match what you are hearing.

    One of my previous cars had piston slap. The car would start with no noise, but after a minute of running, the knock would appear and last for less then a minute before disappearing. In my case, the slap had no detrimental problems with the car.

    Mrbill
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    What weight oil do you use? What type of oil filter?
  • bajajoesbajajoes Member Posts: 48
    I use 5w-30 Amzoil with an Amzoil filter. I drive about 10K/yr and change oil yearly.
    I am familar with piston slap and don't think that is what it is but I cannot say for sure. It sounds like something stops being lubricated after 3 min. and then after another 5 min. it goes away.. It reminds me more of a solid lifter type sound more than anything.
    Thanks for the input, I appreciate your thoughts. baja joe
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Why don't you try a 10W-40 non-synthetic and get an oil filter from Honda and see what happens? You have nothing to lose except a shorter oil change interval. My Subaru had a similar issue and switching to non-syn and an OEM filter helped, but did not cure it. Of course I have a boxer type engine which is more susceptible to this sort of thing. 5W might just be too thin for your older, cold engine. I'd still keep 10W and not go to 20W since you have as I recall variable valve timing.

    OR---you could always have the valves adjusted...I *think* your engine is adjustable (need to check that). If so, I'd certainly have that done.

    I don't like to hear valve lifters hammering, even if there's no real harm. It's worth looking into, as we don't want camshaft damage.
  • bajajoesbajajoes Member Posts: 48
    I would do that but it had non-synthetic oil in it when purchased about 1 1/2 yrs ago. I switched after I heard the noise but no diff. 5w-30 is what Honda specifies but I could change its not critical.
    I will check and see about adjusting lifters and if that was done when Honda mech. checked on the noise.
    I was surprised when both Honda and Ind. mechanics said they did not think it was serious whatever it was. I think the key is trying to determine why it stops after engine warms up. Baja Joe
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well I can't hear the noise so it's hard to advise you. But checking valve lash would be a good idea don't you think? If Honda says 5W-30 for your climate, well then, fine. I was just thinking that a miled-up engine might like a little heavier oil. How many miles on this car?
  • bajajoesbajajoes Member Posts: 48
    When I purchased the car it had 10w-30 non-synthetic in it and after about a week I changed to 5w-30 Amzoil synthetic. The car had its major 105,000 mile maintenence in July of '08 and the valves were adjusted at that time while trying to determine noise but there was no change. It presently has 110,000 miles. I have 20+ yrs experience with Amzoil on other cars and I stand by it but I can certainly try a heavier oil. They make a 5w-40 that is mainly for European cars but I would like to try it when I change oil. The car has been fine since purchased 1 1/2 yrs ago so whatever is making the noise must not be too serious however I am always looking to see if I can find a cause for the noise.
    Thanks for the input. baja joes
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    In good diagnosis it's best to never make any assumptions. I would assume the valve adjustment was not done right, for instance, and check it. Also not all engine take to synthetics. Some respond badly to it over time (Mazda rotaries fer instance, or so MaxdaTrix says). It's not a miracle cure for engine wear or bad adjustments, as you know.
  • bajajoesbajajoes Member Posts: 48
    What you say could be true. When I change my oil in July I will go to a heavier wt oil and have the valves readjusted. But I believe in Amzoil and want to stay with it.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well I understand but faith-based diagnostics is still interfering with experimentation. I can tell you that when I went from syn to non-syn my lifter noise definitely got better on cold start. Of course that was MY car, not yours. So there may be a variable right there that doesn't apply to you.
  • bajajoesbajajoes Member Posts: 48
    Perhaps you missed my previous post but the "experiment" was already performed as the car had non-synthetic in it when purchased and still exibited the noise. There seems to be no difference. The valves will be readjusted again to attempt to determine if it was done correctly.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Oh I thought you said it got worse since you bought it, sorry.
  • AZIZ16AZIZ16 Member Posts: 2
    HELLO TO ALL I AM A NEW MEMBER TO YOU I WOULD LIKE TO HAVE INFORMATION ABOUT THE TYPE OF CAR BRAND HONDA ACCORD EX V6 YEAR 2000: HANDBOOK OF MAINTENANCE AND REPAIR OF PREFERENCE IN FRENCH LANGUAGE AND if possible thanks in advance
  • honda4u1honda4u1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Accord special edition and about a week ago I know this key is getting harder to turn in ignition then as time passed by it has been worst untill yesterday I could not take the key out of ignition it would start but when you shutt off the car steering wont lock to take the key out anyone knows about this problem please let me know what can I do?

    :sick:
  • gmc13gmc13 Member Posts: 1
    i have a maintance light flashing ten times and a check engine light all the time but car runs perfect im stumped it has the 4cylinder
  • upengan78upengan78 Member Posts: 21
    How long have you driven the car since the Engline ligh first came on? Last time it happened to my 6Cyl accord, I put the Lucas Fuel treatment tuneup bottle and also checked the fuel tank cap and then drove 30-40 miles and it was at 2nd or 3rd restart of engine the engine light did not come on... and everything ran okay..

    I remember engine light had initially come on when I had pressed my brake peddle and put accelerator peddle on high.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    The maintenance light is simply needing to be reset, assuming you have actually HAD your maintenance done. It is set to do what its doing every 6000-7500 miles or so. The procedure is in the owner's manual.

    You can have the check engine light diagnosed for free at most auto-parts chains (AutoZone, etc..).

    Check your fuel cap. If you don't tighten it enough after you refuel, the light will kick on. It'll take driving it a few times before the light goes away.
  • petaleafpetaleaf Member Posts: 1
    2002 honda accord (lx?)
    around 95k miles.

    how many good years are left if the transmission is rebuilt? should i trade/sell for a newer model asap?

    thx!
  • cannell3cannell3 Member Posts: 45
    Tonight I noticed that the odometer on my 00 Accord is no longer illuminated. Does anyone have an idea of what it might cost to get the bulb(s) replaced? Also, my check engine light has been on for 2 weeks now; is there a way for me to reset it? Thanks! :confuse:
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    1.) Dash bulb - I had an overhead instrument cluster light bulb replaced in my '96 Accord LX (it doesn't have illuminated pointers so I felt it was worth it for a quick glance at the speedo at night) but it cost over $100. That was at 120,000 miles. It has 189,000 now and hasn't had any other bulbs go out in the instrument cluster (the ones that light the PRND4D321 around the gearshift, and the hazard flasher have gone out, however). I was quoted $120 for the gearshift light. No thanks!

    image

    2.) Check engine lights can be read and reset for free at most auto-parts chain stores (AutoZone, etc.).

    Hope this helps you out!

    -TheGraduate
  • les19les19 Member Posts: 2
    Have a honda 1989 accord fuel inj 2 litre. My problem is when you take off it is very sluggish the revs are normal but the car doesnt want to go .When the revs get higher the car then takes off and flys ,it hesitates occasionally when at 80 and over but runs beautiful,its only in low gear that it has problems .It idols ok but when you put you foot down and give it a quick rev it then hesitates and jumps a bit. If you hit it again it might stall .I replaced the main air valve it had no ball that helped a little but still having this problem. When it gets hot if you stop it you usually cant start it for a while .I thought fuel at first changed filter and pump but no change. any ideas Im all out
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    Perhaps anyone who has a suggestion for you can reply here: les19, "Honda Accord (1976-1989) Maintenance & Repair" #389, 13 Mar 2009 5:15 pm.
  • newb435newb435 Member Posts: 4
    This weekend I changed out the Main Relay underneath the steering wheel, based on what I had read in this forum, but it didn't fix the problem. I also read in the manual about the TPS so I may go there next. I have already swapped out 2 of the 6 coil packs and it still didn't fix it. As you mentioned in your message, its an intermitent issue and only happens when the engine is hot and after its been restarted 3-4 times. Very strange issue and when I check it out on the diagnostics it always says the same thing; missed fired on all of the cylinders. I might try replacing the TPS; changing the coil packs hasn't helped; still get the same syptoms and failure call outs. There has to be someone out there that has fixed this type of anomoly.
  • betsy44betsy44 Member Posts: 3
    Hello, my Honda Accord 2002SE has 111700 miles. It's running fine. I have been quoted $375 for the 90,000 scheduled maintenance plus $500 to change the timing belt. I'm told the timing belt needs changing as a preventative measure because if it goes, it will damage the engine. Is it necessary to do the maintenance and timing belt? Can I streamline the maintenance by only having some of it done, and if so, what would you have done? I could get all of it done, but it will be a financial squeeze. Thanks very much for your input.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Betsy, your timing belt should be changed as soon as possible. Your engine is living on borrowed time. It's hard to know what else needs to be done, without doing some checking. What does the coolant look like? What do the brake pads and fluid look like? What does the transmission fluid look like? Would these items be included in the maintenance? $875 is not a bad price for all these items. Some shops would charge that much just for the timing belt service. Sorry I can't be more helpful.
  • lucas123lucas123 Member Posts: 7
    My '98 accord will occassionally stall at a stop light...this is a very random thing that has happened in the past few months. I thought nothing of it, I do most of the maintenance and repairs myself; it runs very well with good power at 163,000 miles (V6). Does anyone know if this stalling is gas related? Right before it stalls, my car will struggle to stay on...almost like it is choking. Maybe fuel the injectors are dirty? Or does it sound electrical? I don't know where to look on this one. Got new alternator, battery, I tightened the battery terminal connections just in case...
  • blufz1blufz1 Member Posts: 2,045
    Have you changed the timing belt on your 163k V6 and, if so,at how many miles? Thanks.
  • lucas123lucas123 Member Posts: 7
    Changed at 103,600 miles on 10/11/2004...valves and things were also adjusted at that time.
  • blufz1blufz1 Member Posts: 2,045
    Thanks,again. Sorry I can't help with your question.
  • lucas123lucas123 Member Posts: 7
    When is it recommended to change your timing belt? I have a '98 accord V6 with 163,000 miles. I changed it at 103,000 five years ago. I figure that it would be better to change it earlier since my car is 11 years old now. Anything else that would be good to adjust/change at the same time with the timing belt?
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Change it every 7 years or 105k miles. When you have it done, have the water pump replaced too.
  • lucas123lucas123 Member Posts: 7
    When I first bought my '98 accord used (5 years ago), it would idle smoothly at a stop light. Now, it vibrates more at a stop light. I'm not sure if maybe I need to replace a fuel filter (never done), clean or replace fuel injectors, change spark plugs cables or distributor, etc. I have 164,000 miles. It's in good shape. I've cleaned the intake manifold out last year and that made my car idle nicely. Spark plugs, EGR, PCV, Oxy sensor have all been changed. Anything else I need to do? I want to keep the car another year or two, so I'm trying to do everything possible to keep it running well. Thanks.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I'd do the following:

    1. check carefully for vacuum leaks anywhere

    2. Inspect and change out the spark plugs

    3. If you can find some REAL fuel injector cleaner, the industrial type a repair shop might use (not off the shelf wimpy products from a supermarket), you could try that.

    I don't see how plug wires or distributor would cause a rough idle IF...IF...in fact the car runs fine on the highway.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Check the engine mounts. Is it a vibration problem, or is it running rough? Its hard to tell from the post.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Also a good idea. Does that engine have a support strut as well?
  • lucas123lucas123 Member Posts: 7
    It doesn't ride rough on the highway. Actually, it idles much more smoothly at a stop light after driving on the freeway for 20 minutes or so. I'm not sure if the engine has support struts at well. Is it easy to change the engine mounts? What brand of fuel injection cleaners do you recommend? I've used Lucas products in the past.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I like BGK-44. Or any product that is handed to you by someone wearing a HAZMAT suit is probably okay. :P

    But have a look at those spark plugs!
  • rhubertyrhuberty Member Posts: 18
    I have a 98 accord with V-Tec 4 cylinder. 155,000 miles. I can be going down the highway at a steady speed anywhere between 30 and 80 mph and sporadically experience a hesitation. It's a split second thing that comes and goes. Sometimes I won't experience it for a number of days and sometimes I will experience it 3-5 times in a 15 mile drive. It's been doing this for almost 9 months - never seams to get worse or better. Just replaced plugs, cap, rotor and wires. Transmission replaced at 109,000 and it's on its 2nd ignition switch so I can pretty much rule that out. Other than that nothing has been done to the engine (does have 2 emission related codes - converter and evap canister but Honda dealer said they should not have a major effect on how the card operates). Any ideas would be much appreciated.
  • dan158dan158 Member Posts: 2
    My problem with my 98 Accord has been diagnosed by 2 different shops as a cat. converter and a CPM(?). It has about 90k+ miles. I'm trying to figure out which is more likely. Symptoms are engine light came on a few times, during which the engine ran rough. That hasn't happened 6 months or more. More recent, and more disturbing, is the engine dies for no reason, mostly at idle. Dashboard lights flash and then stay on. Has done this 2x today, but usually only 1x every 3-4 weeks. Also, has trouble starting (also sporadic). Other than these symptoms, the car idles well and runs strong.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    rhuberty

    Not sure, but you may have an EGR problem (ports or valve).
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    dan158

    Your problem sounds like the ignition switch (electrical part). If you can cause the engine to stop, by slightly moving the key back and forth, the ignition switch is the culprit.
  • rhubertyrhuberty Member Posts: 18
    Ignition switch has been replaced 2 times. Most recently around 110K. That's when I believe I initially took it in to dealer as it was really cutting out at the time. New switch took care of 90% of the problem but this hesitation remained. I can jiggle it now like crazy and no cut out so I doubt that is the issue. I am perplexed and nobody appears to have many real suggestions which tells me it might be one of those "unfixable" or "try replacing parts until you get it things." I wish I had a magic wand!
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Ooops, I was replying to dan about the ignition switch. Yours sounds like it could be the EGR system (valve or ports). Have you had that checked? Intermittent problems are the worst, so I feel your pain. The EGR problems are more common on the V6 engines, but that doesn't mean the I4 is immune. Good luck finding the problem.
  • rhubertyrhuberty Member Posts: 18
    Any idea how a do it yourselfer can check EGR? I can identify it and probably take it out.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    From what I remember on my old Accord you had to apply vacuum to the hose on the EGR valve, but don't remember what the result was supposed to be. I don't have that service manual anymore, so I can't look it up. Sorry Maybe if you did a search on it, you could find out more. Most EGR systems can be diagnosed the same way, so it might not have to be Accord specific. I'm not sure this is even your problem, so I would not just start replacing parts, based on guess work. Good luck
  • jodar96jodar96 Member Posts: 400
    I just bought a one owner 2001 LX 4 door 5M with 120K miles. As soon as I bought it, The timing belt work was not done. I had the dealer replace the timing belt and adjust the valve clearance. He checked the water pump and said it was fine and did not replace it. The timing belt looked amazingly clean. There was not a single crack in any grooves.

    Here are my questions:

    Valve/lifter. piston/engine noise: The engine has a tick..tick..tick sound. I mostly hear it at idle. The Honda dealer adjusted the valves but the noise is still there. The service manager said the sound is piston slap that develops in some Hondas in about 100-120K and will not get worse for another 200K and you can not get rid of it. He said the engine is very clean and there is no sign of oil change abuse. Does anyone has any engine addative fix for this?

    Where is the air cabin filter? I thought it should be behind the glove compartment. I tried to remove the glove box. It did not work by removing four obvious screws. Any links to any site that shows the procedure?

    I will have more questions later...

    Thanks,
    Joe
  • dawaddawad Member Posts: 5
    My car had the same problem with the high speed hesitation. Even to the point that at 80mph the car would actually stall--very dangerous. After several trips to the dealer and many unnecessary repairs the issue was finally properly diagnosed. Turned out to be a "faulty fuel relay switch." It was replaced and car has been fine ever since at high speeds--with high speed hesitation at least.

    Now, I just have to wait three minutes (almost exactly) after starting the car before I can drive away without any hesitation. Totally new problem...

    Car has 239,000 and going kinda strong...beats a car payment.

    Good luck
  • rhubertyrhuberty Member Posts: 18
    Thanks for the note. That sounds like a plausible solution and does not sound real expensive to try.
  • blufz1blufz1 Member Posts: 2,045
    It's behind the glove box and down but is hard to change out on the 98-02 models. Easier on the 2003 and up.
  • blufz1blufz1 Member Posts: 2,045
    The bad news is my Honda dealer found 2 broken motor mounts on my 02 V6 with 96k when I had them do my required annual state inspection. The good news is a very noticible improvement on startup vibration and everywhere when accelerating. They said they redesigned the motor mounts in 03. $500,thank you. Had the timing belt,water pump,belts,etc. done the same day $700 more, thank you very much. Old water pump looked good.
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