Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
One of my previous cars had piston slap. The car would start with no noise, but after a minute of running, the knock would appear and last for less then a minute before disappearing. In my case, the slap had no detrimental problems with the car.
Mrbill
I am familar with piston slap and don't think that is what it is but I cannot say for sure. It sounds like something stops being lubricated after 3 min. and then after another 5 min. it goes away.. It reminds me more of a solid lifter type sound more than anything.
Thanks for the input, I appreciate your thoughts. baja joe
OR---you could always have the valves adjusted...I *think* your engine is adjustable (need to check that). If so, I'd certainly have that done.
I don't like to hear valve lifters hammering, even if there's no real harm. It's worth looking into, as we don't want camshaft damage.
I will check and see about adjusting lifters and if that was done when Honda mech. checked on the noise.
I was surprised when both Honda and Ind. mechanics said they did not think it was serious whatever it was. I think the key is trying to determine why it stops after engine warms up. Baja Joe
Thanks for the input. baja joes
:sick:
I remember engine light had initially come on when I had pressed my brake peddle and put accelerator peddle on high.
You can have the check engine light diagnosed for free at most auto-parts chains (AutoZone, etc..).
Check your fuel cap. If you don't tighten it enough after you refuel, the light will kick on. It'll take driving it a few times before the light goes away.
around 95k miles.
how many good years are left if the transmission is rebuilt? should i trade/sell for a newer model asap?
thx!
2.) Check engine lights can be read and reset for free at most auto-parts chain stores (AutoZone, etc.).
Hope this helps you out!
-TheGraduate
1. check carefully for vacuum leaks anywhere
2. Inspect and change out the spark plugs
3. If you can find some REAL fuel injector cleaner, the industrial type a repair shop might use (not off the shelf wimpy products from a supermarket), you could try that.
I don't see how plug wires or distributor would cause a rough idle IF...IF...in fact the car runs fine on the highway.
But have a look at those spark plugs!
Not sure, but you may have an EGR problem (ports or valve).
Your problem sounds like the ignition switch (electrical part). If you can cause the engine to stop, by slightly moving the key back and forth, the ignition switch is the culprit.
Here are my questions:
Valve/lifter. piston/engine noise: The engine has a tick..tick..tick sound. I mostly hear it at idle. The Honda dealer adjusted the valves but the noise is still there. The service manager said the sound is piston slap that develops in some Hondas in about 100-120K and will not get worse for another 200K and you can not get rid of it. He said the engine is very clean and there is no sign of oil change abuse. Does anyone has any engine addative fix for this?
Where is the air cabin filter? I thought it should be behind the glove compartment. I tried to remove the glove box. It did not work by removing four obvious screws. Any links to any site that shows the procedure?
I will have more questions later...
Thanks,
Joe
Now, I just have to wait three minutes (almost exactly) after starting the car before I can drive away without any hesitation. Totally new problem...
Car has 239,000 and going kinda strong...beats a car payment.
Good luck