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Comments
Thanks,
Joe
VTEC system malfunction
1 low oil/pressure
2 blocked oil passage
3 failed vct oil control valve
ran motor flush through it, cant remember the brand, and changed the oil. do i give it a day or so and if it still seems to be shifting hard do i go on to 3? and if so what do i do?
Having changed the headlight assembly on a '98 Accord coupe, I only had to remove the screws and the electircal connectors.
Edit: I was able to get it replaced without removing the bumper, but it was a bit of a pain as it had to be gently worked in there.
-Smith
You should also check your negative battery cable as a remote possiblility. Over time the cable or ground can become bad. A small screw attaches the cable to the vehicle. If the ground is loose a bump in the road or vibration can cause hesitation and failure. I would pull apart the ground and make sure everything is clean. Might even want to start with a new cable and screw. Bad ground or loose cables can create all kinds of issues especially with engine death and starting. I would think your shop would have looked into this but you never know. Good luck.
Rick
Has anyone had a similar problem?
All parts of the U.S. have winter/summer blended fuel, which is needed to prevent cold or hot start problems. Winter fuels have higher volatility to compensate for cold dense air. Conversely, summer fuels have lower volatility and are less prone to "percolate."
If winter blended fuel is used in warm or hot weather, the higher temperature may cause the fuel to "percolate" within the fuel system.
Summer fuel may not vaporize adequately in cool weather.
These situations are normally localized and last only during a brief period of severe changes in climatic conditions. Normally, no vehicle repairs are needed for these situations.
Buy fuel from high-volume, major name-brand stations.
what do i do? can i replace it?
The knee plastic piece under the glove box has one screw deeply hidden in center console. I don't understand why they did not put a metal pressed on clips so you can pull this piece. The filters looked like they have never been replaced.
Joe
Yes, their are a pair of shift solenoids, and a pair of lock-up solenoids. They look like cylinders mounted to plates, bolted to the transmission. They have screens on them that can be cleaned. Has the fluid been changed recently? What does it look like? This link may help you, it has pictures of the solenoids, and directions for cleaning and inspecting them. Good luck.
http://techauto.awardspace.com/transmission.html
I had them save the belt so I can inspect and see the cracks and glazing. I was shocked as how good the belt looked. I feel you can easily go your 105K miles and ignore the 7 years.
The dealer adjusted the lifters and said the noise is called piston slap that is caused by ovalized pistons. He said some Honda engines develop this and will go another 200K without ever having an issue, He said it is just a noise that I need to put up with.
I bought this Accord for my 70 mile daily work commute. It drives really nice and it goes about 535 miles between fill ups. The infamous lower seat bulge is there as it was in my old 94 and my wife's 2008 Accord that we just sold. I will get into the back seat and fix that bulge one of these days.
Joe
I have a 1999 4cyl 4dr Honda accord with 100K+ miles on it. Today it was hard to start (started on the third try) and then idled without a problem. after it warmed up put it in reverse and it traveled back without touching the gas without a problem until I pressed the gas pedal - then it shuddered and stalled.
the car still idles fine, and i can press the gas pedal gently to get it up above 3000rpm without a problem. but if i press the gas "normally" it will sputter out and stall in any gear (park, reverse, neutral, drive).
I've had minor stalling problems in the past the came and went (maybe once a year or once in 2 years) but they would never repeat. this problem now won't go away.
weather was rainy and in the 60's today if that matters, anyone have ideas where I should start troubleshooting?
thanks for your help
my problem is about the jerking and hesitation of the engine, even though you floor the accelerator the engine hesitates and the idle is too low up to the point of stalling, the engine check is light on, what is the problem. pls. help
I suggest going to Autozone or some other parts store, and see if they can read the codes for you. That might at least narrow the possibilities.
thanks for the reply, the error codes are 45 and 72, do you have any idea to solve this problem.
thanks
If your mechanic checks it and finds it okay, I would never go back to the dealer again for out of pocket repairs. In fact, I might report them to your local DAs office. This could be regarded as out and out fraud, if in fact the belt is fine.
I have to say though I am equally troubled by your mechanic's response.
I HAVE A 99 HONDA ACCORD 4CYL LX MI 274 AND IVE HAD MAINTENANCE DONE ON HER BE IT THE BELT ,REPLACED COILS,NEW SPARK PLUGS FLUSHES...THE PROBLEM IS ABOUT OVER A YEAR AGO EVERY SO OFTEN LIKE ONCE EVERY SIX MONTHS SHE WOULD JUST SHUT OFF AT A REDLIGHT OR NOT TURN OVER IN THE PARKINGLOT...THEN IN THE BEGINING OF THIS YEAR IT HPPND MORE FREQUENTLY AS WELL AS SHE WOULD LIKE STUTTER WHEN SHE CUTS ON THEN SHUT RIGHT BACK OFF AND THIS WOULD GO ON ALMOST EVERYDAY FOR ABOUT 5MIN BEFORE SHED STAY ON,ALSO NOW WHILE DRIVING SHELL JUST SHUT DOWN...CAN SOMEONE PLZ HELP....CAN THIS BE FIXED OR SHOULD I PREPARE FOR HER FUNNERAL
I also have a 1998 accord, it is a 4cyl LX. Over the past year i too have had the same problem, the engine just dies even when driving along at a constant speed. My mechanic is hesitant to replace anything he is not sure of being the problem. So far he has replaced the fuel injectors because the pressure was low and has replaced the distributer cap which had a hole in it. Unfortunately it died again this week. Have you found the cause to this problem? If you have i would appreciate some advice.
Thanks,
Tom
Try giggling the key, while the engine is running. If you can get the engine to shut off, without changing the switch position, you've found your problem. Do the dash lights go out when this happens (another indication of ignition switch)?
Tom
Mark
Tom