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Honda Accord (1998-2002) Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • jodar96jodar96 Member Posts: 400
    Has anyone replaced the headlights on these? Does it come of by disconnecting the electrical connectors and removing visible screws.......or you have to take the bumper facia off?

    Thanks,
    Joe
  • justintammjustintamm Member Posts: 3
    i have a 2000 accord se w/88,000 on it. and it started to kind of shift hard my check engine light came on so i got it checked out at auto zone and it came back with this....
    VTEC system malfunction
    1 low oil/pressure
    2 blocked oil passage
    3 failed vct oil control valve
    ran motor flush through it, cant remember the brand, and changed the oil. do i give it a day or so and if it still seems to be shifting hard do i go on to 3? and if so what do i do?
  • smith764smith764 Member Posts: 1
    Joe,
    Having changed the headlight assembly on a '98 Accord coupe, I only had to remove the screws and the electircal connectors.

    Edit: I was able to get it replaced without removing the bumper, but it was a bit of a pain as it had to be gently worked in there.

    -Smith
  • rhubertyrhuberty Member Posts: 18
    Dan,

    You should also check your negative battery cable as a remote possiblility. Over time the cable or ground can become bad. A small screw attaches the cable to the vehicle. If the ground is loose a bump in the road or vibration can cause hesitation and failure. I would pull apart the ground and make sure everything is clean. Might even want to start with a new cable and screw. Bad ground or loose cables can create all kinds of issues especially with engine death and starting. I would think your shop would have looked into this but you never know. Good luck.

    Rick
  • mitchfloridamitchflorida Member Posts: 420
    When it is very cold outside (unusual in South Florida), my 1999 Accord sort of sputters when it starts and runs very rough for the first few minutes. It sounds like it will stall out, and the check engine light goes on. After a day (and warmer weather), the engine starts normally, and the check engine light goes away on its own. This has happened to me 3 times this winter. The check engine light is off for now, but I am afraid it will come back with the cold weather.

    Has anyone had a similar problem?
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    If possible, while the Check Engine light is on, take it to AutoZone and let them read the CEL code to see what the problem is.
  • blufz1blufz1 Member Posts: 2,045
    Drain and fill the transmission fluid using only Honda brand ATF. Drive a week and repeat. Drive another week and repeat. Only about 1/3 of the ATF drains each time. Good luck.
  • dan158dan158 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks. Turned out to be related to that... the ignition pigtail inside the column. Starts and runs perfectly now-no stalling and starts every time. thanks.
  • smonitor88smonitor88 Member Posts: 2
    My car is an automatic and everytime it shifts out of the first gear it clunks. My car is a little bit over 130,000 miles. I've had the Honda dealership look at it they said that the transmission is going out. I was wondering if anyone knew how much it should be to get a rebuilt transmission put in and also if anyone from the MN Twin Cities area knew any good, reliable auto repair shops.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Is this a V6 or a 4-cylinder model?
  • smonitor88smonitor88 Member Posts: 2
    4-cylinder
  • mitchfloridamitchflorida Member Posts: 420
    Sometimes my Honda seems to idle poorly, hesitate on acceleration or experience hard starting. Why is that?

    All parts of the U.S. have winter/summer blended fuel, which is needed to prevent cold or hot start problems. Winter fuels have higher volatility to compensate for cold dense air. Conversely, summer fuels have lower volatility and are less prone to "percolate."

    If winter blended fuel is used in warm or hot weather, the higher temperature may cause the fuel to "percolate" within the fuel system.

    Summer fuel may not vaporize adequately in cool weather.

    These situations are normally localized and last only during a brief period of severe changes in climatic conditions. Normally, no vehicle repairs are needed for these situations.

    Buy fuel from high-volume, major name-brand stations.
  • justintammjustintamm Member Posts: 3
    what is a torque converter, i am told that is what the problem is
    what do i do? can i replace it?
  • brandonmcqbrandonmcq Member Posts: 2
    i took in my honda accord (1999, ex, 2 door coupe, 140000kms, automatic) to a canadian tire on april 11th, they found quite a few issues with it but the biggest problem i had was after parking it for the winter with quite a few problems already. I started it up and the RPM's shot to the max, as if i had the pedal to the floor. Now after fixing it and 1500$ candian later, i got it back today and after 20 mins of driving it i had problems again. It is just dying on me, i will be accelerating down the street and its like some one slams it into Neutral for 10 seconds and then slamms it back in gear for 10 seconds. It continues to do this for approx. 20 mins then stops. Then 20 mins later it starts doing it again. What could this be, the said that the belts are oily cause of a powersteering leak, But i am thinking this is transmission? thankyou
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    4-cylinder or V6?
  • brandonmcqbrandonmcq Member Posts: 2
    V6
  • jodar96jodar96 Member Posts: 400
    Last Saturday, I replaced the cabin filters in my 2001 Accord that I just bought with 121K miles. I find it amazing that Honda has made the replacement of these filters so complicated.

    The knee plastic piece under the glove box has one screw deeply hidden in center console. I don't understand why they did not put a metal pressed on clips so you can pull this piece. The filters looked like they have never been replaced.

    Joe
  • hacksaw3hacksaw3 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 92 Accord LX 4 Cylinder with 180,000 plus miles. The automatic transaxle doesn't shift until high RPM, then it shifts really rough. When slowing down to stop or turn a corner it downshifts really rough also. Are there any vacuum lines or solenoids that control the shifting on this transmission? If so, where are they located & can they be serviced by the average shade tree mechanic?
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Are there any vacuum lines or solenoids that control the shifting on this transmission? If so, where are they located & can they be serviced by the average shade tree mechanic?

    Yes, their are a pair of shift solenoids, and a pair of lock-up solenoids. They look like cylinders mounted to plates, bolted to the transmission. They have screens on them that can be cleaned. Has the fluid been changed recently? What does it look like? This link may help you, it has pictures of the solenoids, and directions for cleaning and inspecting them. Good luck.
    http://techauto.awardspace.com/transmission.html
  • therivertheriver Member Posts: 70
    I recently had my 02 with 75K miles in for normal oil change. The dealer said the antifreeze was in need of change and that I should change the timing belt (prevention only on both - no issues). I said that the owners manual said 100K for the timing belt and something similar for the antifreeze. He said that because the car was 7 years old the mileage does not apply and should be changed. The owners manual does not say 100K or 7 years so I think he is lying. Any thoughts
  • blufz1blufz1 Member Posts: 2,045
    If you have the Timing Belt changed they also change out the water pump and have to change the antifreeze and that is included in the TB change charge. Don't pay seperately/twice for the antifreeze.
  • mitchfloridamitchflorida Member Posts: 420
    Honda recommends that you change the timing belt at 105,000 miles or 7 years, whichever comes first. Ditto with the changing out the anti-freeze. The dealer was telling the truth.
  • jodar96jodar96 Member Posts: 400
    I bought a 2001 LX 4 cylinder with 121K miles last month and knowing that the timing belt had not been replaced, I took it to the dealer and had them replace the belt. He did not replace the water pump as he said there was no leak and it looked fine.

    I had them save the belt so I can inspect and see the cracks and glazing. I was shocked as how good the belt looked. I feel you can easily go your 105K miles and ignore the 7 years.
  • therivertheriver Member Posts: 70
    thanks - will do my next oil change, but won't freak out about it. Next oil cahnge probably about 80 K anyway
  • jodar96jodar96 Member Posts: 400
    I have a tick tick noise in the 121K mile Accord that I bought. When I bought it, I figured it was a lifter noise, and thought I would have the Honda dealer adjust the lifters while they were doing the T/B replacement.

    The dealer adjusted the lifters and said the noise is called piston slap that is caused by ovalized pistons. He said some Honda engines develop this and will go another 200K without ever having an issue, He said it is just a noise that I need to put up with.

    I bought this Accord for my 70 mile daily work commute. It drives really nice and it goes about 535 miles between fill ups. The infamous lower seat bulge is there as it was in my old 94 and my wife's 2008 Accord that we just sold. I will get into the back seat and fix that bulge one of these days.

    Joe
  • psalministry1psalministry1 Member Posts: 1
    Mine is doing the very same thing. What was your resolution for this problem?
  • mrpenskemrpenske Member Posts: 2
    Hello

    I have a 1999 4cyl 4dr Honda accord with 100K+ miles on it. Today it was hard to start (started on the third try) and then idled without a problem. after it warmed up put it in reverse and it traveled back without touching the gas without a problem until I pressed the gas pedal - then it shuddered and stalled.

    the car still idles fine, and i can press the gas pedal gently to get it up above 3000rpm without a problem. but if i press the gas "normally" it will sputter out and stall in any gear (park, reverse, neutral, drive).

    I've had minor stalling problems in the past the came and went (maybe once a year or once in 2 years) but they would never repeat. this problem now won't go away.

    weather was rainy and in the 60's today if that matters, anyone have ideas where I should start troubleshooting?

    thanks for your help
  • beetoy61beetoy61 Member Posts: 8
    hi,
    my problem is about the jerking and hesitation of the engine, even though you floor the accelerator the engine hesitates and the idle is too low up to the point of stalling, the engine check is light on, what is the problem. pls. help
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    the engine check is light on, what is the problem

    I suggest going to Autozone or some other parts store, and see if they can read the codes for you. That might at least narrow the possibilities.
  • lucas123lucas123 Member Posts: 7
    Ok, I don't know what the hell is wrong with my car...I've changed plugs, battery, cables, alternator, emission parts, etc but the other day I was sitting in traffic on the way to work when my car just shut off...couldn't start it for 10 minutes...the car just didn't have enough juice to kick over. It's happened a few times in the past 6 months, I know it's telling me something but my mechanic can't tell since it happens so infrequently. Sound like a starter/solenoid issue? It's a 1999 accord V6 with 165,000. I've done lots of work to it, so it runs very, very well. When my car shuts off, the there are no signs...just happens. I can only think of the starter/solenoid being the problem...anything else to look for? Thanks much. Trying to avoid buying another car.
  • beetoy61beetoy61 Member Posts: 8
    hi,
    thanks for the reply, the error codes are 45 and 72, do you have any idea to solve this problem.
    thanks
  • mwoods1mwoods1 Member Posts: 1
    I recently took my 2002 Accord in to the dealer for some warranty work. They came back and told that they did a free maintenance checkup for me and found that my timing belt was worn and showed cracks. The recommended that I replace it for $800. I thought it was odd, being that the car only has 56,000 miles on it and Honda recommends that it be changed at 105000. So I called my local mechanic to ask him about it. He said that he doubs that the dealer checked it, because it requires a lot of labor to get to the belt. I asked if i could bring it to him to check, and he said if he goes to that much trouble, he would replace it anyway. How easy would it be for the dealer to "check" my timing belt?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    It doesn't require a lot of labor but you do have to take off the valve cover on the 4 cylinder and the throttle body cover and intake cover on the V-6. It's not a big deal to check it. You'd better have it checked because if it is cracked you have to have it replaced ASAP. I agree, that would be quite unusual.

    If your mechanic checks it and finds it okay, I would never go back to the dealer again for out of pocket repairs. In fact, I might report them to your local DAs office. This could be regarded as out and out fraud, if in fact the belt is fine.

    I have to say though I am equally troubled by your mechanic's response.
  • skywatcher_88skywatcher_88 Member Posts: 3
    While your mileage is low for a 2002 vehicle, timing belt replacement is NOT solely based on miles. Honda recommends to replace the TB at 105000 miles or 7 years whichever comes first. Whether your dealer had actually taken off the valve cover to inspect the belt or not is another discussion.
  • synaisynai Member Posts: 2
    HELLO,
    I HAVE A 99 HONDA ACCORD 4CYL LX MI 274 AND IVE HAD MAINTENANCE DONE ON HER BE IT THE BELT ,REPLACED COILS,NEW SPARK PLUGS FLUSHES...THE PROBLEM IS ABOUT OVER A YEAR AGO EVERY SO OFTEN LIKE ONCE EVERY SIX MONTHS SHE WOULD JUST SHUT OFF AT A REDLIGHT OR NOT TURN OVER IN THE PARKINGLOT...THEN IN THE BEGINING OF THIS YEAR IT HPPND MORE FREQUENTLY AS WELL AS SHE WOULD LIKE STUTTER WHEN SHE CUTS ON THEN SHUT RIGHT BACK OFF AND THIS WOULD GO ON ALMOST EVERYDAY FOR ABOUT 5MIN BEFORE SHED STAY ON,ALSO NOW WHILE DRIVING SHELL JUST SHUT DOWN...CAN SOMEONE PLZ HELP....CAN THIS BE FIXED OR SHOULD I PREPARE FOR HER FUNNERAL
  • synaisynai Member Posts: 2
    HELLO,IM HAVING THE SAME PROBLEM WITH MY 99 4CLY LX ACCORD...SO HAVE U HAD ANY RESPONSE SOLUTIONS YET
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    My first guess would be the ignition switch. If you can get the car to die, just by wiggling the key switch (still turned on), it would be confirmed. It could be other things too, like igniter, distributor, coil, etc. Good luck solving the problem.
  • lt0521lt0521 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 honda accord V6 i just recently installed a new battery in it but every time i hook it up the panic alarm goes off wat do i do???
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Can't you push the un-lock button on the remote, to turn it off?
  • antoinetantoinet Member Posts: 3
    freddie,
    I also have a 1998 accord, it is a 4cyl LX. Over the past year i too have had the same problem, the engine just dies even when driving along at a constant speed. My mechanic is hesitant to replace anything he is not sure of being the problem. So far he has replaced the fuel injectors because the pressure was low and has replaced the distributer cap which had a hole in it. Unfortunately it died again this week. Have you found the cause to this problem? If you have i would appreciate some advice.
    Thanks,
    Tom
  • bradmazbradmaz Member Posts: 1
    '01 ACCORD COUPE EX. The alarm randomly goes on and can be turned off with the keyless remote. If I try to lock the doors with the keyless remote the car won't honk and the lights won't turn on like normal. I try to lock the doors manually but the alarm still goes off when it wants. The dealership said there is a relay that resets when you turn the car on, this works sometimes. What should I do? Thanks!
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Tom,
    Try giggling the key, while the engine is running. If you can get the engine to shut off, without changing the switch position, you've found your problem. Do the dash lights go out when this happens (another indication of ignition switch)?
  • hbund216hbund216 Member Posts: 162
    I have a 2000 Accord with a manual transmission. Once in a while when I try to shift into 1st gear while stopped the sifter will not go into gear or goes in partially. There is no grinding at all. I can shift into other gears. Trying to see if anyone else has had this issue and what the fix was. The clutch seems to be fine. I'm thinking it's the synchros or the master/slave cylinder.
  • pdavenportpdavenport Member Posts: 1
    Did you ever find out what was causing the car to die? Mine has been doing this off and on for several months, only getting worse.
  • antoinetantoinet Member Posts: 3
    no i have not, i tried jiggling the keys while the car was running as elroy instructed me to do in a post like 3 above this one but i could not get the motor to turn off. The dash lights do go out when it does die which he said was an indication of an ignition problem. If i remember correctly there was a recall for the ignition several years ago and im pretty sure my dad took it in to be replaced, if you did not do that maybe you should start there. I will keep you posted.
    Tom
  • mitchfloridamitchflorida Member Posts: 420
    Does your car start right back up? My alternator went bad a couple of years ago, and that would cause the car to come to a halt.
  • marharmarhar Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1999 Accord. I had the same problem. I took it to the dealer to get the tune up. I told them the problem of the car dieing with out warning. They told me it was a bad part that was under a recall and fixed it for free. After they fixed the part it has run like new. Call your local dealer and tell them the problem and they should fix it for free. It was a factory recalled part.
    Mark
  • mitchfloridamitchflorida Member Posts: 420
    Gee, thanks. Does the part have a name? Or is it just a thing-a-ma-jig?
  • rlserlse Member Posts: 1
    I also have had this problem. I do know there was a recall on the ignition switch, which is what my problem was. I believe you will find that if this happens again just simply reach down to your key and turn it to the start position very slightly and your car will come back on. You may have to hold the key in this position. If you are short on cash you can wrap tape around key and up to the gauge panel for a short time until the ignition switch wears out further.
  • antoinetantoinet Member Posts: 3
    It does start right back up every time which is a good thing, but it is still dangerous to drive if its going to quit, got to be careful pulling out into traffic and would not want to be on the highway. Will let you guys know what i can find out.
    Tom
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