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Honda Accord (1998-2002) Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • mitchfloridamitchflorida Member Posts: 420
    If your car stalls even when you are driving at around 30 mph, it probably is the ignition switch. There is a recall on the ignition switch and Honda will fix it for free after the dealer diagnoses that that is the problem.
  • cannell3cannell3 Member Posts: 45
    My driver's side rear door (exterior) is not working-you pull on it, but it doesn't activate the latch. I have to open the door from the inside latch. Can anyone tell me where to find the instructions to replace/repair the handle? I assume that I buy the parts at my Honda dealer? Thanks in advance.
  • rhubertyrhuberty Member Posts: 18
    I have $50.00 for someone that can help me troubleshoot this issue (honestly I will drop the check in the mail if I eliminate the problem for 30 days straight). '98 Accord EX w/ 4 cylinder & auto transmission. History: Currently 180,000 miles, ignition switch replaced 2 times (can rule this out as problem). At 109K transmission was replaced under warranty (thanks Honda), at 110K timing belt and water pump replaced, at 160K plugs, wires, cap, rotor and thermostat replaced. Just replaced 2nd clutch pressure swith (loose, caused oil leak and code p1738). Other than that nothing done mechanically other than normal oil, filter, plug changes, etc. Currently have codes p0172, p0420 and p1457 (converter, evap leak, o2 sensor, etc. - and yes I am cheap) - these codes have been hanging around for thousands of miles and I'm of the opinion all emissions related and not that relavant to my problem - I'm sure some will say take care of them and that might help with the issue. Here is the issue - car runs great 98% of the time. Occasionally, I can be going down the highway and I will get a slight hesitation - sometimes won't happen for days - comes and goes. Just occurs for a second, may happen 2-3 times over 5 miles then may go away for a week or so. It does appear that the tach drops at hesitation but it's so quick it's hard to tell for sure. Always starts well, idles well and accelerates well. This has been going on for 40-50K+ miles. Any help would be appreciated and yes I can take some good ribbing for entertainment purposes.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Don't know if this would apply to your engine, or symptoms, but you might want to check it out.
    http://home.comcast.net/~em-engineering/T2T013.pdf
  • corkscrewcorkscrew Member Posts: 254
    Hello rhuberty,
    First' follow elroy's link to port cleaning and check it out.
    Second, replace the O2 sensor before the cat: http://www.obd-codes.com/p0172,
    with a litle luck this will erase code P040 http://www.obd-codes.com/p0420
    Third, look for a vacuum leak in the evap system (canister system) and last, did you replace the spark plugs with Honda recomended plugs? There should be a sticker under the hood with the plug type and gap. Also look for a leak in the exhaust system.
    Corkscrew
  • zpaconzpacon Member Posts: 1
    Did you get any suggestions about your speedometer needle? I have the same problem after removing the battery and I had not been able to get it to go back to its correct position.

    ..Another thing that happened was that the needle on the speedometer fell past the little rubber stopper it usually rests on and now I cant tell how fast I am going, the needle still moves so I know its working
  • teddybearneilteddybearneil Member Posts: 15
    One of the brake lights is not working after I had my car serviced and the BRAKE light is on. This happened once earlier and the brake light started working by itself without me doing anything and the BRAKE light disappeared. It looks to me like there is a loose connection or short in the wiring of that Brake Light. Has anyone faced this problem and how did you resolve it?
  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Member Posts: 823
    Have you verified that the bulbs are good? I would take the dead one out and see if the filament is broken inside. If your not sure if it's good or bad, get a new bulb, they are not that expensive.

    Mrbill
  • soldier1139soldier1139 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1998 Honda Accord EX. It has about 120,000 miles on it. I started having electrical problems with it about a year ago. The cars electrical compents will completely shut off in stop and go traffic. It is usually whent the A/C is on. The RPMs and the MPH will dip way down, but i'm guessing they have to do with the electric in the car. Any suggestions?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I would have the battery load-tested, the cables cleaned and checked (especially the ground cable where it attaches not only to battery but to the frame) AND I would have the alternator output tested as well.
  • teddybearneilteddybearneil Member Posts: 15
    I also have a 1998 Accord V6, it has 198K miles on it, but I have never experienced the problems that u have mentioned. I would say have the Alternator checked out.
  • georgew1georgew1 Member Posts: 31
    The 1998 Accord had a recall on the ignition switch for what sounds like the very thing you are dealing with. Stalling intermittenly. Some have had the switch fail more than once. If you haven't had it done on the recall, that might be your problem.
    Any Honda dealer should have a record if it was replaced in the past.
    Worth a try to check it out.
    Good luck.
    George
  • teddybearneilteddybearneil Member Posts: 15
    edited November 2011
    My 98 Accord has 196K miles on it and the Check Engine Light has been on since it was 180K miles. I got the Catalyctic converter changed, the light disappeared for a month or so and lit up again. From what I have read on the internet, there could be multiple parts and reasons for this problem and we could end up spending a **** load of money trying to fix this issue. Any one faced and fixed this problem?
  • beetoy61beetoy61 Member Posts: 8
    did you check your oxygen sensor,or the v-tech sensor,these parts are the reason for that annoying check engine.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    AutoZone will have the check-engine-light code read for free.
  • teddybearneilteddybearneil Member Posts: 15
    I did go to the Autozone the first time around and the print out only gives you ALL the POSSIBLE reasons for the problem apparently and as I mentioned, we would need to try fixing one by one and the bill could tote up to a grand eventually. For a 98 Accord with 198K miles on it..that is too much to spend I think..
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    My first instinct is the O2 sensor. I have a '96, and it is the only chronic problem; I'm on the 4th sensor in 6 years. I think it snacks on them. :shades:
  • kevman3kevman3 Member Posts: 30
    I would think its the O2 sensor as well, as I have changed a few. 198K, now thats a great run. Let us know when you go over 200.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    I'm now at 211k, check engine light on on my '96, and once again it is an O2 sensor. Since I'm still averaging 27-30 MPG depending on driving style and route, I'm not spending the money to fix it right now.

    These are great cars!
  • beetoy61beetoy61 Member Posts: 8
    try the fuel pressure regulator,it might solve your problem,the part is 50 bucks and it's easy to do it.i hope this will help you.good luck.
  • teddybearneilteddybearneil Member Posts: 15
    It was the O2 Sensor. I got it changed just now and the CEL is gone!! It cost me just $ 150 bucks. While the Mechanic was test driving it, he noticed that the bearings were worn out and it was making a wheezing noise..actually it was always making that sound and I thought it was normal..had a few complaints when I was talking on the phone..but never thought it was a problem..so now I have to get the bearings changed.
  • gohomeandcrygohomeandcry Member Posts: 3
    does anyone know what code 1399 means. i know it is for the transmission, but it says propriety code.
  • octoberbd1octoberbd1 Member Posts: 1
    I've taken my car to the dealer and thye hav etried to replace the multiplex units
    to solve the no dash instrument panel lights and that hasn't worked.

    Now, they think it must be in the electrical system.

    What do I do? '

    Octoberbd
  • puck1943puck1943 Member Posts: 3
    The rubber seal keeps dirt and water away from the caliper slide so the brakes will work properly. Like many contemporary disk brakes, the Accord has a single piston caliper and it works by allowing the caliper on the side opposite the piston to slide when applying the brake. You should rebuild the calper and apply a new seal (if you have good mechanical skills) or buy and install a rebuilt caliper. But don't delay because a rusted slide will not move and that will destroy the caliper, the pads and possibly overheat and warp the rotor.
  • jeanettebjeanetteb Member Posts: 3
    I have been told by the service dept that I should change ALL the fluids in my car (transmission, brake, power steering and coolant) due to the age of the vehicle even though it only has 14,000 miles and runs great. Does anyone have any feedback? I am a woman and am afraid that I may be taken advantage of. "If it ain't broke, don't fix it?" Can't they visually look at the fluids to see if they are dirty and need to be flushed??
  • jodar96jodar96 Member Posts: 400
    Believe it or not...They are right. Those mentioned fluids age and loose their property after 2-3 years.

    Leaving them in your car will BREAK your car. Exceptionally low mile car like yours with no fluid flush in 9 years is more likley to fail than a similar car with 80K miles with good maintenance record.

    Find a decent independent garage to do the work rather than going to the dealer.

    Joe
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    While I've never changed the power steering fluid in the 15 years my car has been in existence, the other three should be changed, as jodar says. Especially the brake fluid; it will absorb water over time, whether or not it has many miles of use on it. Water will break down the seals and eventually cause a master-cylinder failure (a $300-$400 repair). I'd change them in order of brake, trans, coolant, and power-steering, if you'd like to have them done at seperate intervals to prevent having one big bill, or maybe you can ask your mechanic how much they'll cost individually to be changed, and then ask if they'll cut you a deal to do several at a time.

    Just a thought, from a guy with three Accords ('96, '02, '06) in his driveway. :)
  • jeanettebjeanetteb Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for the info...I live in AZ and the dealership is doing the transmission, brake and power steering flush for $299, changing the oil for $30 and doing a coolant flush for $70...so all for around $400 and incl a tire rotation. Does this seem reasonable?
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    I honestly don't know how good of a price that is; personally it seems high, but I can't know that for sure. If it were me, I'd talk to a friend or three, maybe some coworkers, or a relative, find out from them what mechanic they may have used, and is reputable. Then call those mechanics, see how much they'll charge to do those changes.

    An example; my dealer wanted $850 to change the timing belt and water pump on my '96 Accord. I called two mechanics my grandparents have used and been happy with, including one who did body-work after I was rear-ended. One quoted me $720, the other quoted $478. I spent $478 and am very happy. :)

    A side-note; make sure you have the transmission fluid drained-and-filled, not flushed. Because you can't change all of the fluid at one time simply by drain-and-fill (much of the fluid is left in the transmission itself), it takes "drain, fill, drive a short distance" being done three times or so to get a good full transmission fluid change. Having it power-flushed can cause you more problems than they're worth; dislodging small particles that could be an expensive headache later on.
  • brig7brig7 Member Posts: 5
    Well i just bought 2001 Honda accord ex manual with 168k miles. The car runs perfect (when someone that knows how to drive manual drives it). I have driven it for about 3weeks now and I had oil filled 1/8 from the max line. A day ago I checked and the oil was half way under the minimum mark.
    I was wondering if my bad driving had an effect on it.
    (i checked for leaks and it's clean, I also checked the exhaust has very little black in it)
  • julianfjulianf Member Posts: 3
    There are a couple of possibilities I can think off - best guesses really. 1 is the potential that the head gasket may leak allowing a small loss of oil to be forced into the cooling / water system. Unlikely but if your radiator has oil appearing in the water then it suggests this. BUT you would normal see a loss of power and your temperarue would be running higher. The next suggestion is the valve stem seals beginning to wear. The would allow oil to burn off while th engine is cold but as the temp rises the re-seal so the evidence in the exhaust is burned off. When they are more worn then you would see smoke from cold starts and under acceloration. I suggest you have someone hold a clean while rag over the exhaust and cold start the engine... see if you are geting oil into the exhaust at 2000rpm then once the engine is warm test again and compare. Normally rings would burn oil constantly - but vlave stem seals are more likely to re-seal at running temp. Hope it helps...good luck
  • bajajoesbajajoes Member Posts: 48
    edited July 2010
    I have a 2001 Accord with manual transmission and it also uses more oil
    than is considered normal. I have had Honda and my own Independent mechanic check it out and they both say that they can find nothing wrong without tearing the
    engine apart. My Accord runs fine other than the oil use and presently has 130,000
    miles. I have noticed that the lower I keep the rpm's(5th rather han 4th gear) the less oil is used. My personal mechanic's guess is that one cylinder is responsible.
    I should get a pressure check on all of them and see if that will discover more
    but it runs so great that I haven't had it done. Regardless if one cylinder is bad
    I won't spend the money because it would take a decade or more to recover the
    relatively small amount of money spent on oil. :shades:
    I should note it has been this way for over 50,000 miles without other issues.
  • rslanzarslanza Member Posts: 1
    I have a 98 v-6. Just replaced the ignition switch a year ago for the 2nd time, new destributer a year ago also. Car just started wanting to not start here and there, but then about 30 secounds later starts and runs like a top. Any suggestions what could be causing it to do this. It may not do it for 10 starts then do it 2 or 3 times in a row. Thanks for any help

    Ron
  • demoman61demoman61 Member Posts: 2
    can any one help me with the electrical wiring. i put a steering column in a 1998 accord. now i need to by pass the security. im using car as race car and dont need security. if i can locate the relay i can bypass.
  • demoman61demoman61 Member Posts: 2
    could be crank sensor. just put one on my 98
  • the_schlepperthe_schlepper Member Posts: 14
    I think I need a Brake Light Switch for my 2001 Accord V6.
    I did the diagnostic that was in the manual and this is what is wrong.
    How much should this cost approximately at an independent shop? At the dealer?
  • the_schlepperthe_schlepper Member Posts: 14
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    I'm pretty sure it's #3 in this illustration. The dealership price will be closer to the list price.
    http://www.bkhondaparts.com/billkay/jsp/prddisplay.jsp?catcgry1=ACCORD&catcgry2=- 2001&catcgry3=4DR+EXV6&catcgry4=KA4AT&catcgry5=PEDAL&ListAll=All&vinsrch=no&syst- emcomp=Chassis&prdrefno=&quantity=0&act=&count=0&hidSwitch=Switch&hidIrno=%7C003-
  • sierra1995sierra1995 Member Posts: 1
    Where is the physical location of this connector? I've looked all over the engine comparment but nothing looks like a cannister with hoses and valve. Sure appreciate the help.

    Sierra1995
  • KettyKetty Member Posts: 14
    Hello, I have a 2002 Accord Special Edition with 84,000 miles and just had the radiator replaced for $840 - Our family has had an 89 & 2000 Civic, 87 Accord, 2000 CRV - we pass them around to college students. None of them needed a radiator replaced and the 87 Accord and 89 Civic had almost 200,000 miles. Has anyone else with the model had the same issue? The dealer told me it wasn't a defect but he did say it was leaking at the seam. I was thinking of turning this car over to a family member and getting another Honda but now I am rethinking that idea. I already replaced the ball joints shortly after the warrently ran out - those are two big repairs and the car has a lot less miles than the other Honda's in our family.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    $840 for a radiator seems like an obscene amount of money. I think mine cost between $300 and $400 installed by my dealer on my '96 several years ago.

    My grandmother has an '02 LX 2.3L Automatic with no mechanical issues at all. The only thing that's been replaced is wiper blades and tires! 100k miles thus-far. It even has original brakes front and rear.
  • KettyKetty Member Posts: 14
    My daughter took her Honda CRV to have brakes replaced as regular maintenance. The mechanic told her the recent Hondas are not as good as they were. He said he had a 2006 and recently sold it due to repairs. Are the newer models not standing up as the previous Hondas
  • gohomeandcrygohomeandcry Member Posts: 3
    My daughter had a 06 civic. She had trouble with the doors not opening and closing properly. The dealer told her that the hinges were the problem, and honda was working on a fix. After six months and no fix, issues getting the door open and closed. She sold it. Not saying honda has slipped, but it is enough to make me think twice. Especially when honda's tend to cost a premium over other makes.
  • therivertheriver Member Posts: 70
    I have a 2002 accord with 85 K. After I saw the recent updated recalls for the ignition interlock I went an tested my 2002 and the key can be removed when the car is in drive.

    I happened to be at the dealer for another Honda service and made an appointment to fix. They checked my records and said the recall had already been done on the car, although they did not have the date.

    Does anyone know when the original recall came out for 2002 cars? I presume Honda will have the date when it was allegedly done.

    Also, is it possible the clip could have broken again or is it more likely they did not fix it?

    I intend to call Honda to ask them to fix it again - anyone know what happens when a recalled item is fixed (i presume it was), then fails again.

    Honestly, considering how little i use this car, it was probably never done.

    Any thoughts
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    recall on shift interlock -- 03/02/2005
  • therivertheriver Member Posts: 70
    Thanks - called Honda today.They said it was done in 2006, but if it is the same issue they will cover it again.

    I sort of remember about 2 years ago, I came inside the house and I heard a small crash outside (although crash is really overstating it). I went outside and saw my car had moved a few feet and hit a rake and a trash barrel - no damage - barely heard it. I saw the shift in drive. At that time I thought it was odd it had rolled, but just assumed I hit the gear shift as I was coming out of the car or something. Anyway, it was definitely after 2006.

    Ironically, I have another Honda that had a recall related to the ignition at about the same time - different issue, but I must have assumed the recall notice related to the other car and not thought about it and did not even know there was a recall on this until I started reading the paper about 03 recalls and thought I would check mine..

    Anyway, they are covering it again but I still believe it must not have been done.
  • grega3grega3 Member Posts: 2
    I bought my son a 2001 Honda Accord Ex from a private party. By the vin, it is supposed to be equipped with keyless entry. The private party wasn't the original owner but said they never had a remote for the car. So I bought a remote and followed the programming sequence published in several places on the web.... close all doors and trunk, turn key from off to on, hit lock button on remote turn key off, repeat three more times without allowing 5 seconds to expire between steps. Anyway, nothing ever happens. Maybe the keyless entry is broken... but everything else seems to work electrically with the car so I'm wondering how to tell if the car does in fact have the keyless entry option. I thought: well maybe the transmitter I bought is not working... but the led comes on so it appears to be transmitting. Any suggestions?
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    It was standard equipment on the Accord EX for 2001.
  • lletournlletourn Member Posts: 19
    I have a Honda Accord 2000 and I'm a bit confused about air filters. :confuse: Do I have both a cabin air filter (the one behind the glove compartment) and an air conditioning filter? If so, where is the ac filter and is it fairly easy to replace (ie, no harder than the cabin filter). Thanks!
  • jodar96jodar96 Member Posts: 400
    There is only one filter that is servicable and that is the cabin filter behind the glove compartment. A/C evap or condenser may have some type of an in- line filter that that do not require ever replacing. Your filters are cabin, air, oil, and transmission ( if it is automatic). The old canister fuel filters are now a little screen in pick up tube inside the gas tank which is not considered servicable.

    Joe
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