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Honda Accord (1998-2002) Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Different strokes, as they say. :) I prefer to let my car to get into as high a gear possible when puttering around the burbs -- it makes coasting much easier, using less of my right foot to keep it moving.
  • hybrid93hatchhybrid93hatch Member Posts: 35
    My father was telling me about a sticky center console in his LX. When I rode in the car the other night I could not believe it! My parents never drink or eat in their cars and it feels as if someone has spilled a large coke all over the center console and into the pocket. Part of the steering wheel is also beginning to feel sticky.

    My brother has gone to the junk yard to look for another center console, but all are sticky! :(
  • vdiddyvdiddy Member Posts: 1
    To whom it may concern:
    i have a 2000 Honda Accord EX and i have a problem with the car...Since last year when the car run hot and i try to start it,it wouldn't start but when the car cools down it would start...So replaced the EGR valve and sprayed it with fuel injector cleaner and that seem to work...but this year i got the same problem and i sprayed some fuel injector cleaner but this time it doesn't seem to be working. What do you think i should do?
  • propwash49propwash49 Member Posts: 38
    You might want to check your fuel pump relay. Hondas have been known to have these things go bad, making hot starts difficult.
  • lll3lll3 Member Posts: 10
    Honda 2000 Accord Paint/Clearcoat Peeling and nasty. Anyone have any info/suggestions on how to address.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Nothing you can do except sand it down and repaint that entire panel, or the entire car if need be. There's no way to touch it up or patch it, sorry.
  • lll3lll3 Member Posts: 10
    The Malfunction Indicator Lamp recently lit up on the dashboard of my 2000 Accord EX. According to owner's manual, check for loose or missing fuel cap and wait for 3 trips to see if it goes out. Unfortunately, it hasn't. Anyone have any additional suggestions.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    You should have the codes read to give you further hints. Very often, it can be something simple like loose or leaking vacuum lines in the Evaporative Emissions Control system. Or the cap could be bad.
  • upengan78upengan78 Member Posts: 21
    edited November 2010
    I own accord 2000 EX v6 and had same issue when in TN for vacation. I took it to auto parts and asked them to check reading. He found some numbers related to engine. At first the guy suggested http://www.lucasoil.com/products/display_products.sd?catid=2&iid=26 . So we bought and used it. Then after driving for 15-20 miles and 2-3 engine stop/start in between suddenly at one start that Malfunction light didn't come on and never came back on later. You can try adv auto parts free checkup.
  • sanchez0561sanchez0561 Member Posts: 9
    I replaced the gas cap on my '98 LX, 3 days later it was gone. Hasn't come back.
  • lll3lll3 Member Posts: 10
    follow up= I had the codes pulled.
    1) P1167-Manufacturer Control Fuel air metering
    2) P0700-Transmission control system malfunction
    3) P1739-Manufacturer control transmission
    Does anyone have any comments on whether ...
    1) these codes necessitate a trip to the dealer for specific Honda repair/parts?
    2) any idea as to estimate on repair cost.
    [note: I usually add Red Line fuel injector to the gas each tank but ran out the past two fill-ups]
    Any help is appreciated. Thanks to All.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    I usually add Red Line fuel injector to the gas each tank

    Why?
  • lll3lll3 Member Posts: 10
    to keep the engine running clean...
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Good, regular unleaded top-tier gasoline with detergents in it will do that. I suspect the additives may have messed up your car.

    TOP TIER Gasoline Retailers:

    76 Petro-Canada
    Aloha Petroleum Phillips 66
    Chevron QuikTrip
    Chevron Canada Rebel Oil
    Conoco Road Ranger
    CountryMark Severson Oil
    Entec Stations Shell
    Esso Shell Canada
    Exxon Sunoco Canada
    Kwik Trip / Kwik Star Texaco
    MFA Oil Co. The Somerset Refinery, Inc.
    Mileage Stations Tri-Par Oil Co.
    Mobil Turkey Hill Minit Markets
    U.S. Oil
  • silviodsilviod Member Posts: 13
    edited December 2010
    I have a 2001 accord and i would like to know how the heck to i adjust the headlights?
    I replaced the bulbs with HID KIT and i just need to adjust the left light just a touch.

    I read on here that tranny is an issue. Yes some had problems and it were the ones made in japan. The ones made in the states are great. Mine was made in the states and i have no issue. Do a drain and fill with HOnda Syntech every 40000km and you will be fine. DO NOT add any additives, its bad for the car.

    This statement came from honda!

    Please send any ideas to Silvio@rogers.com

    thank you
  • sistarsistar Member Posts: 19
    edited December 2010
    1998 accord 5-speed with <150k and half-tank gas. Was going down hill about 45 and saw yellow signal, so I braked hard and the car shuddered, jerked then died. Tried at least a dozen times to re-start - it started for a millisecond then jerked and died, even with attempts to floor the pedal on ignition. Finally by some miracle I was able to catch it in action and let it shoots to redline. Afterwards, i did pedal to metal a dozen more times, now the car runs like new as if nothing ever happened.
    I thought I need to replace clogged fuel filter, but learned in my model there is none to replace.
    Please help me analyze this puzzle, so the freaked-out wife can have her peace back. Thank you and merry xmas!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    You might do a computer scan to see if anything was recorded as a trouble code. Your symptoms are really too vague to identify anything specific. Sometimes old cars just "burp" and that's it
  • rservicerservice Member Posts: 1
    This will be easy question for anyone who owns a 6th generation Accord. My 2001 four cyl EX sedan has rubber bushings called cushions in the top radiator mounts. They are easily visible with the hood open. Plastic posts project up from each side of the radiator through these cushions or grommets, which are held to the front cross member in metal brackets.

    On my car (126,000miles), the posts can slop around in the cushion holes, allowing the radiator to bounce fore and aft by 2 or 3 mm. Doesn't sound like much, but it makes a noticeable thump.

    When I removed one of the cushions, I noted that the hole in it shows no wear, and is in perfect condition, so it hasn't been hogged out. When I bought a pair of new cushions from a dealer, they were just as large, and also allowed the fore-aft slop on acceleration and braking.

    Is this the way they are supposed to be? Could someone take a look the next time they have the hood open. I would just construct tighter cushions myself, but worry that they might be too restrictive and break off the radiator top mounting posts.

    Thanks.
  • bajajoesbajajoes Member Posts: 48
    My interior rear view mirror keeps coming off and while it is easily reattched it is loose and the
    view is shaky. I would like it to stay in place.
    I'd like to know if it requires an adhesive to hold it? How did it come from the factory?
    Anyone? :shades:
  • iangeniusiangenius Member Posts: 6
    Are you sure its not a cracked front motor mount that is causing the thump? This is one of the major issues that plagues our generation of Accords (eg. clogged EGR port, transmission, crappy alternator, etc.)

    Mine has a bit of play too FWIW.
  • bajajoesbajajoes Member Posts: 48
    How does one decide whether to replace or rebuild an engine? Assume the car will be kept indefiniotely as I am very happy with it.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    edited February 2011
    It rather depends on the condition of the engine you have. Sometimes, it's just too expensive to rebuild one, if say you have a flat crankshaft or egg-shaped cylinders.

    On the other hand, if all you need is an "overhaul", meaning replacing internal parts, re-machining the cylinder head and valves, but leaving the crankshaft stock size and not re-boring the cylinders, then it makes perfect sense to keep the engine you have.

    The most rational approach is to disassemble the engine and "mic it" (measure all the critical parts) all out carefully and see what you have. Naturally this plan requires some pre-thought as to a backup plan. You also need to inspect it for cracks.
  • bajajoesbajajoes Member Posts: 48
    IIF the present engine's internal condition is unknown and it has close to 200K on it is the cost/benefit anaysis still favorable or should that money be applied to a known replacement?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Again, I'd have to know the clearances in the cylinder bores and the measurements of the crankshaft throws to answer that.

    If you have to bore, and you have to re-machine the crankshaft and thus need oversize bearings and oversize pistons, that starts to get expensive.

    If you're asking which way to bet *without* examining the old engine at all, and you want an engine to run another 200K, then I'd get a new short block installed. Without VTEC, that's about $2500 bucks + at least 20 hours labor.

    So unless you go with a low miles used engine, you're looking at $5000 or so if a professional shop does a short block for you.

    If you "overhaul" the engine yourself in your garage, and only need to send the head out for machining, and you don't have to touch the bores or the crankshaft--just rings and bearings and gaskets----then you'd get away a lot cheaper.

    I suppose a shop could also do an overhaul for you for considerably less than $5000, since they wouldn't be boring or messing with the crank----but you know, when you open up an unknown engine, you have to be prepared for bad news.

    So what do you do when the shop calls and says "okay, your engine needs everything, it's all in pieces, what do you want to do?"
  • bajajoesbajajoes Member Posts: 48
    I can get a replacement Long block for $2900 and an install for $750. I think I'll put the money in that rather than expend $$$$ checking out an existing one with close to 200K.
    What is your opinion of the prices I have been quoted? I really like the car and plan on keeeping it indefinitely. It is a Coupe, 4 cyl with MT and gets 33+mpg on fwy. 25 in town
  • bajajoesbajajoes Member Posts: 48
    I have written to the NHTSA and gotten a letter of approval to have a switch installed for the airbag in my '01 Accord to protect my very petite wife from injury from the airbag.
    She has been driving another car w/o airbags but its in sad shape so she will need to drive the Accord.
    I have been unable to find anyone to do this.
    Any suggesstions? I could use some help.
  • lll3lll3 Member Posts: 10
    2000 Honda Accord LX-Replaced clock light bulb about 6 weeks ago but it seems to go in and out at night so it's hard to read at times in the night. Clock works fine.
  • mowens564mowens564 Member Posts: 1
    I know this is an old post, and I don't know how your situation turned out, but I've got the same problem, and I'm the wife! I was making duplicate keys for all of the cars, and the guy making the keys said he couldn't do one for the Aveo I just bought, but didn't say anything about the GMC truck or the Honda Accord. So I go out today to test them all and it's stuck. Same as your situation, my husband had to take his main key off of the key ring to get it close enough to turn the car over, but the key won't come out. So at least we won't have to pay for a towing bill. It has an anti-theft thing in there, so there is a key flashing on his dashboard. So I tried the suggestion of disconnecting the battery and it didn't work. Hopefully this won't be an expensive mistake, but I guess I'm going to pay for my stupidity. I think the man making the key should've known better.
  • johnd22johnd22 Member Posts: 1
    edited April 2011
    I had the exact same problem. I discovered it because my 1998 Honda Accord wouldn't shift out of park and i was stuck in a parking for 45 min until i discovered the shift lock release button which is hidden underneath the plastic rectangular ring that goes around the shift console. It's directly left about 3 inches from the shifter, again, underneath the plastic rectangular ring. You just use your key to depress the shift lock release and shift into neutral, start the car, then shift into drive. To fix the brake lights not coming i started by checking all the fuses; there are 3 fuse boxes(that i found) 1) left of the steering wheel between the door and the dashboard 2) Same place as the first but on the passenger side 3) under the hood close to the windshield on the passenger side. Supposedly the fuse for the brake lights is in the fuse box under the hood labeled "stop" on the case of the fuse box. All of my fuses were still in tact (burnt fuses will literally be burnt and the metal connection in the middle will be broken). The brake lights flashed when i unlocked the car and they also turned on when i turned the lights on so i knew the bulbs were good. I then moved to the brake light switch which is located under the dash, next to the brake pedal. You'll have to get up underneath the steering column and literally be on your back with your head next to the brake pedal. You'll notice the metal arm connected to the brake pedal comes in contact with a plastic cylinder about 1 inch in diameter, 3 inches long and that has a 1.5 inch metal bolt coming out it with a small button at the end of the bold that is depressed when the brake is in resting position. There should be some wires connected to the brake light switch. Unplug the wires and unscrew the brake light switch. I went to Auto Zone and had the switch tested and it did not conduct a charge so i bought a new one for $40, put it in and everything worked. So start with the fuses, then the bulbs, then the brake switch. After that you'll probably need to get a wiring diagram of your car and hunt down all the connections and check all the wiring. That's way out of my league and i would've just taken it to a mechanic after that.
  • wingman39wingman39 Member Posts: 2
    jimmy1943 I recently purchessed a 2000 Accord SE from my inlaws an i have the same problem on the passanger rear light panel did you ever receive any solutions to this problem
  • jngnycjngnyc Member Posts: 1
    Thanks so much for this step by step post. This was super helpful!
  • 42scooter42scooter Member Posts: 1
    I have read many posts on the Internet regarding '98-2002 model with the 2.3 L ULEV-VTEC engine and its stalling or dying problem(s). Here is a little history on the engine/electrical problems that I've encountered with my car.
    I purchased this 4dr Accord L model new in late 98 from a local dealer. I had some engine stalling issues early on, but this was after it came off fast idle and usually on cold winter mornings when, it would stumble and stall. After chasing this problem with the dealer for about 30-45 days, including changing out the computer module, a factory rep came to the dealership and raised hell with the service manager and staff there and did a little tune-up training claiming that they were not correctly setting the "base idle" properly. After he adjusted same, I encountered no further dying but it would still have a slight stumble at times if the weather was cold and just for the first few minutes after it came off of fast idle.
    In late 2002 at around 63k miles on the engine, I would sometimes have difficulty with the ignition switch getting sort of stuck and the horn would not blow if the key was in the ignition.

    I was told there was an electrical ground issue in the steering column and it cost me $557 to replace it. After that was done I had no further problems with the car until I started having some problems with the shifter sort of getting stuck when the car was parked or on a slope. The key would also be sort of sticky. I took the car in to be checked in Sept '07 with 106k miles on it and they replaced the ignition switch which had been a recall item. After that, the car ran fine until just recently.

    At just about 120k miles, I started getting intermittant engine shut down while driving at speeds under 20-25mph and usually just slowing for traffic. It might happen once, then I could get the car started w/o any problems and it would drive fine for a couple of weeks and then it would do it again...one time, it died 4x on me in about a 2 hr period. I did some research on the Internet and found where this problem was plaguing a lot of Honda owners within the above model years.

    I contacted a couple of local Honda specialty maintenance people, including the independant mechanic that did my regular service and they all seemed familiar with this problem as being electrical and not really engine related and most of them pointed to the faulty design or parts of the ignition switch. So, I contacted the local dealer again and told them what I had found out. I said that my car only had 14k miles on it since they did the ignition switch recall, plus it appeared that I may have also paid for an electrial problem in that steering column that I shouldn't have. The service manager saw my point and pulled the car in again for the ignition recall. He called me and said that they were able to duplicate the engine fail when giggling the switch and so they replaced it again at no cost to me. So this appears to be a reoccurring problem.

    I just had the 120k engine service on this car, replacing the plugs, rotor and cap and now the car is running better than ever. So if any of you have this sudden dying of your 98-2002 Accord with this engine, you might see if you can get your dealer to to that ignition recall again. It's worth a try.
  • sanchez0561sanchez0561 Member Posts: 9
    I posted this message 5 years ago and have run into this problem again. The air conditioner blows hot air when the car is idling when stopped at a light. I got no replies back then and was wondering if anyone else has run into this problem. Please help.
  • selvaselva Member Posts: 2
  • selvaselva Member Posts: 2
    I have this funny problem with my Honda Accord 99 4Dr LX. (Automatic)
    My car drives normally when taken out of the garage in the morning and its braking performance good. However, when I drive it for an extended duration without braking, (such as highway driving), the brake pedal becomes soft as rubber and I have to push it all the way down to the floor to make the brakes grip. However, the braking performance is normal. That is, the car stops within a reasonable distance once the brake grips.
    This does not occur when I am in city driving, when I have to brake often and the brake feels as firm as ever and behaves normally.
    I have checked the brake fluid level and it has remained well within the limits and I have not seen any oil drips on the garage floor ever.
    Can any one help diagnose this situation?
    Thanks!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well definitely a loss of hydraulic pressure. What would happen if you start the car up in the morning, and just press down as hard as you can on the pedal? Would it sink toward the floor if you maintained hard pressure on it? Don't pump it, just one good slam, and keep it there (of course, I mean idling in park when doing this).
  • yusuf1yusuf1 Member Posts: 17
    Greetings Edmunds community, I have a 1999 Accord LX with 260K MILES, a/c has been out for the past 3 years (no funds to fix yet), now just discovered bad oil leak. Advice? Will finally be getting some funds to fix the a/c next week but now this too? Fix up or trade up? Thanks for any advice.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well a bad oil leak can occur from a bad .25 cent part. it's not necessarily a catastrophe.

    Best way to locate an oil leak is putting the car on a lift.

    As for the AC fix, make sure the compressor is not seized. If it IS seized, you may incur more expense than you think, since a seized compressor might have contaminated the entire system.
  • mldd2003mldd2003 Member Posts: 5
    I got exactly the same issue on my 99 accord? any help?

    I recently replaced ignition switch myself (second time after 2002 recall), touched some wires under, wonder if it is a contacting problemm...
  • mldd2003mldd2003 Member Posts: 5
    And did this problem affect you afterwords? is your D4 light still off?
  • madvibesmadvibes Member Posts: 1
    I am having the same issue Scooter.
    I have a 02 EX 4dr and boy oh boy, when i got it new took it to the dealer about 5 times after experiencing the problems on the road but "like always" the problem never occurred when it was brought to the dealer.

    im at 78K and the issue is starting to reoccur.
    Its driving me nuttssssssss!
    i will call the dealer and inform them on what i am aware of.
  • jabh12jabh12 Member Posts: 1
    hi, i bought a used 1999 accord and when i went to inspection i failed because of codes p0505 and p1457. Can anyone explain and help or more details please thanks
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    505 is a malfunction in the Idle Air Control System---could be the IAC valve, or perhaps a good cleaning of the throttle body might fix this, or also an idle adjustment might work

    1457 is a malfunction in the EVAP (Evaporative Emissions Control System) and has to be tested with a smoke machine for vacuum leaks (could also be a bad gas cap).
  • riffraffriffraff Member Posts: 6
    edited November 2011
    Car started overheating at idle or in traffic this past Spring and I can't figure out how to get it to stop. Replaced the stock Honda thermostat with an autoparts store thermostat. Also replaced the thermostat sensor with an autoparts store sensor. Basically, as far as the sensor and thermostat goes, I used local autoparts store parts, instead of Honda parts.

    The fans don't come on. The drivers side fan will come on, but more often than not, you have to push the AC button to get it to come on. The passenger side fan doesn't come on at all it seems. I plugged it into the drivers side plug and it works, so I don't know why it's not coming on when plugged into it's own plug.

    The top radiator hose gets hot, but the lower hose only gets warm. The dash guage sometimes goes from 3/4 to fully hot at idle. The problem is becoming more and more common as the months go by. Only thing buying me time for the moment are the cold temps. Please help.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    If the overheating is only at low speed or idle than you have an AIR circulation problem, not a coolant circulation problem--so it seems like this is about the cooling fans, not the thermostat, radiator, water pump, etc.
  • zaffo1zaffo1 Member Posts: 3
    I am driving the 2000 Accord I bought new for my mother. Only had 66,000 miles, so you can see it is not driven too much. Some specific issues I have had that I thought I would share:

    Won't idle / Check Engine Light / stalls

    This symptom started popping up at about 59,000 miles and 10 years of age. The idle became suddenly very rough and would even stall. It ran fine once over 20 MPH or so.

    This is typical of an air leak in the intake some place that I used to experience with my Fords. I looked and looked, but could not find a cracked hose. The Ford hoses would crack and your idle would go bad. The other culprit is the IAC Idle Air Control valve. In my Fords it never went bad, I just cleaned it every couple of years. Looking for the obvious answer, I went looking for the IAC on the Accord. It is in between the throttle body and the intake and has cooling lines routed to it. It is also held in place by tamper proof 5 pointed star security bits. These I ordered from Amazon for $15. When I got the valve out, it was obvious this was the problem. A can of Gumout was needed to clean the oil and carbon build up that was blocking the valve from functioning normally. The part was $110, so I cleaned it up really well rather than replacing. It worked well and the car has been perfect since.

    I had the timing belt done at 10 years at a local indy shop.

    Just recently I replaced all 4 rotors and front calipers. The rotors and calipers are original. Front rotors had been machined once at the dealer years ago with prior pad replacement. When I went to replace pads recently, The caliper started to leak when I pushed the piston in. 2 rebuilt loaded Nissin calipers went on along with new rotors - rear got new pads and rotors - for $320. Flushed and bled the fluid, and the braked feel and act 100%. I am very happy.

    This car looks and feels better than any bought new and kept 10 years or longer. My Fords were just as reliable and trouble free, but did not hold up cosmetic ally.

    My 2006 EX-L V-6 is holding up very nicely with 60,000 miles. It just got 4 new rotors and pads and feels good as new - for $200. Just keeping up with oil, coolant and transmission fluid changes is enough.

    Brakes pads and parts are cheap enought that I just replace and buy remanufactured rather than try and machine or rebuild. It is easier too.
  • truckie4lifetruckie4life Member Posts: 56
    Ok, so I have a 98 Accord EX, 4 cylinder, 5 speed. When I turn on the A/C to "1" or "2" setting for A/C or heat, you hear a ticking noise. When you turn it up to "3" or "4", the noise seems to quiet down a little but you can still hear it.

    So what can it be? The blower? The compressor? Trash?
  • royalrooterroyalrooter Member Posts: 1
    2002 ex 4 cyl - went for sticker and 2 readiness codes are showing up, cat converter and evap failure. The only engine light code I get is the 420 for the cat converter. I put in an after market converter a year ago and the tester says if I can clear the evap failure I can get a sticker. Question is, the code for evap doesn't show up when I put the OBD II on it only during the readiness scan. Some have suggested this could be due to the battery being low, which it is, but not sure if I want to invest in a new one yet without knowing how much more I will need to do before getting a sticker. Would low battery power cause an evap failure?
  • therivertheriver Member Posts: 70
    02 with about 110K. Lately, the car seems to hesitate when I step on the gas, then sort of "wakes up". Automatic

    Generally, it is when I hit the pedal the hardest - i.e. stop, then turn in front of cars to a side street. On a highway, the car seems to do fine on the highway and even locally - just that sometimes if I take a turn and hit the gas, it takes a split second to react, then surges, then fine. My mechanic said it may be a accelerator cable that is sticking.
  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Member Posts: 823
    If the accelerometer cable is sticking, then you should feel the sticking when you push on the accelerometer pedal. Also, if the cable is sticking as you push the pedal, then the cable might stick when you release the pedal as well. That could get dangerous!

    Mrbill
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