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I've aleady had the throttle stick a little on my 04 Accord which was due to the throttle plate sticking. A bit of cleaning solved my problem.
Mrbill
Mrbill
George
When it comes to a clutch I have two rules: one, use the best parts you can buy, and two, replace everything---every bushing, seal, spring, etc.
You don't want to have to be in there twice is my reasoning.
I wonder if your car has a little inspection plate where someone could peek in there?
I think the first starting problem is different from the other two, but for both issues I have taken the car to a shop and the mechanics have not been able to reproduce the problem so they haven't been able to figure out where the problem is. I have heard of someone else with the same year and make car with a similar issue, but again mechanics haven't been able to figure it out. Has anyone else out there had a similar problem? I am tired of trying to explain the problem to mechanics and only having the car not work for me.
Does that seem plausible? Or could this problem in fact be related to the work the mechanic did on the car?
Thanks for any feedback!
With the ignition switch off, turn your window wiper switch on, the intermittent speed about half way. Push the odometer button and hold it while you turn the key to ACC. That might fix it and save you some hard earned $$$$'s.
Good luck.
George in IL.
There is 99 Honda accord, when it is shifting at the take off, it makes a clunk noise. This also happens when you make a full stop. I showed it to mechanics and had different opinions. One told transmission should be replaced, inside is bad. Other told one of sensors is not working well, so it is not shifting properly.
Do you have an suggestion about what is going on, and what is the best way to detect what the real problem is?
Thanks.
I wish I knew if the remote entry problem could be related to the ignition switch so that I could decide whether to keep pressuring the original mechanic to fix it. It's frustrating to have the car come out of the shop with things broken that weren't broken before!
Amy
I'm sorry you are having such a mysterious problem. I can't help but think something is wrong with the remote. I know you replaced the battery but why not see if the dealer has some way to check the remote unit or is there a universal remote or something they have that can prove that your car system is good or bad. There must be some way to prove one or the other is bad. A HONDA dealer can't be that inefficient but many are.
Good luck.
George
Any clue?
Thanks!
Offhand, could be lots of things---bad 02 sensor might do that, leaking injectors, low compression, faulty timing....
You might check your oil and if the dipstick is way overfill, that would be a big hint for us.
But by all means, have a scan done. I think OReilly and Autozone still do them for free for you...and GET THE NUMBER of the code when you come back here.
With very low gas mileage, any educated guess on what goes wrong?
Thanks!
I can't say that the effect on MPG would be drastic, but it's a good first step. You might also want to check when you had your last tune-up and/or compression test.
also check your dip stick for signs of overfill--you could be leaking fuel into the crankcase from leaking/dripping injectors.
Entering the programming mode cancels all learned keyless remotes, so none of the previously programmed remotes will work. You must reprogram all of the keyless remotes once you are in the programming mode.
You must complete each step within 5 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from exiting the programming mode.
1. Turn ignition switch to ON (II)
2. Press the LOCK or UNOCK button on one of the remotes. (An unprogrammed remote can be used for this step.)
3. Turn ignition switch to LOCK (0)
4. Repeat steps 1, 2 and 3 two more times using the same keyless remote used in step 2
5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II)
6. Press the LOCK or UNLOCK button on the same remote. Make sure the power door locks cycle to confirm you are in programming mode.
7. Press the LOCK or UNLOCK button on each remote you want to program. Make sure door locks cycle after you push each remote button to confirm system has accepted the remote.
8. Turn the igniton switch to LOCK (0) to exit programming mode.
9. Test remote
I'm almost close to change transmission fluid, power steering fluid and brake fluid. I have a 2000 Honda Accord v6 sedan.
Today I called Honda dealership to know how much they will charge for the service shown above and the person who does that service told me the following prices:
Transmission fluid service - $99.50,
Brake fluid exchange - $147.20,
and power steering fluid exchange - $104.19
Also he said that those prices include fluid, labor, shop supplies, and tax.
I need advise. Is it to expensive to do it in dealership or it can be done more less in other places such as Jiffy Lube?
Thanks in advance.
On Tuesday my auto repair shop put on new bushing(s) and link(s) on the left front control arm (driver’s side) because of a squeaking noise in that area. On Friday afternoon I heard a strange new noise coming from the motor area of the car. I opened the hood and saw the alternator was not aligned correctly. I drove the car about 20 more miles on Friday and did not hear any more strange noises.
This morning (Saturday) my serpentine belt on the passenger side shredded when I started the car in the morning. I looked at the alternator and saw a loose bolt which caused the alternator to twist off center and the serpentine belt to shred.
I can come up with two possible causes for this situation.
First possibility: The shredded belt is a late result of the work of my brother (a very accomplished do-it-yourself mechanic who has a separate 2 stall garage for auto work) when he and I put on a new alternator over 6 months ago. Perhaps it took 6 months for the bolt to loosen and cause the problem.
Second possibility and my question: Is it possible the mechanic who put on the new bushing(s) and link(s) on the left front control arm needed to loosen the alternator located behind the radiator on the right front (passenger side) of my car to accomplish his work?
Your opinions and thoughts are greatly appreciated.
As for your brother--it's pretty hard to trace something like this back to a job done 6 months ago. More likely, just vibration worked it loose, or perhaps the threads on the bolt (or worse, the block itself) are damaged. I'd certainly inspect those things carefully before proceeding with a repair. It's also possible some bracket could have broken.
Condenser maybe? Is it worth it with 282000 miles on it? Just thinking of cutting my losses. Any opinion would be helpful..thanks.
Could be an expansion valve....you should perhaps go to an AC specialist and have the system tested.
As much as it might cost to fix the AC properly, it's still way cheaper than another car. Presuming yours runs well and looks good, it would be worth the investment. You should be able to run the car up to 225K--250K.
I've spoken with a friend of mine who is great with cars and he thinks it could just be a bad ground behind the dashboard. Problem is if he is right I have absolutely no experience with dashboards and those can be very complicated.
So question is if he is wrong what is the problem and if he is right where can I get reliable info. on how to remove the dash and fix it?
Thanks for the help.
thanks
Three questions -- any idea how I can fix the odometer display so that it always shows the miles driven? How much is it likely to cost? Can I fix it without making it look like I've played with the odometer?
Thanks for the help.
The newer model Honda mats are thin and cheap and cost the same!
Joe
Oh p.s I told him not to jump it because i did not want to cause more problems