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Honda Accord (1998-2002) Maintenance and Repair

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    georgew1georgew1 Member Posts: 31
    You can use any brand of oil as long as it is the correct wieght. It's best to check in the manual for the weight. I believe it calls for 5W30.
    George
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    dustinggggdustingggg Member Posts: 2
    Here's the story: I was getting a routine oil change. After looking at the car, guy said I needed a new upper ball joint/control arm. I got that replaced. After leaving the lot, I started hearing a noise whenever the car came to a stop. It sounded like something powering down (higher pitch to lower pitch), then the noise stops when the car is stopped.

    I took the car in and they said they couldn't find the problem, and said that it might be a transmission problem. That didn't make sense to me. They couldn't find anything with a diagnostic. What is going on? Anyone have any idea what could be making this noise right after the upper ball joint/control arm is replaced in a 2002 Honda Accord 6 cylinder?
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    mitchfloridamitchflorida Member Posts: 420
    All I know is that the service advisors at Honda Dealerships work on commission and the more "repairs" they can get you to pay for , the more money in their pocket. It is definitely a racket. I don't have any work done unless I get a second opinion and price quote.
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    the_feesherthe_feesher Member Posts: 1
    Could be anything in the suspension, I'm guessing that either you need to get the suspension regreased, but mainly when you hear the car winding down, it's your wheel bearings going out. Which could be possible because with a worn ball joint it'll put more force on the lower CA which in turn wears your wheel bearings more. It may have been worn for a while but now that everything is sitting how it should the noise showed up
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    dustinggggdustingggg Member Posts: 2
    Mitchflorida, thank you for the response. It wasn't a Honda dealership, but it was a place where every time you go something is 'going to fall off and you are going to die on the highway tomorrow!' type of place. So, yes, I think I will get a second opinion.

    the feesher, maybe I'll get my wheel bearings and suspension checked out. I hope it is just there because everything is finally sitting right. That's what it seems like since I got the noise immediately after it was fixed. I will definitely need a second opinion. Thank you!
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    dcman19dcman19 Member Posts: 4
    I have been experiencing the same problem with my '01 accord (automatic). I have 208k miles on it and after about 2000 miles into an oil change I noticed I was a quart low. I hadn't noticed any leaks or that I was burning oil up to that point, I took it back to the Jiffy Lube where I had it serviced in the first place (I work in the building next door so I know them all fairly well) and they said I had a very small gasket leak and that I was likely burning oil because of the age of the vehicle. He suggested to just let it run because it wouldn't be worth paying to get the gasket fixed yet.

    I went into Auto zone to check out my options to help it last longer and they suggested to switch to a high-mileage synthetic (something I'm already using, Pennzoil 5w-20 according to the ) and to try plugging the leak with an engine oil stop-leak (Lucas-Oil brand). My worry is after talking to a friend of mine who is a mechanic is that stop-leaks will sometimes plug holes that need to be open. Is there any chance of that happening with my engine or should I not worry about it?
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    mrbill1957mrbill1957 Member Posts: 823
    Unlike radiator stop leak which some are full of particles that plug holes,my understanding of oil stop-leak additatives is they soften/swell gaskets so they seal better. I'm not aware of an oil addative that could plug up things.
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    Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Stop leak and switching to synthetic are two pieces of not-so-good advice.

    Best thing to do is:

    1. Get the car on a lift and determine exactly what is leaking and how much.

    2. If #1 is insignificant, then just keep an eye on it, and keep adding oil every 2000 miles. That level of oil consumption for a 200K engine is quite acceptable.
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    bajajoesbajajoes Member Posts: 48
    edited January 2013
    My '01 Accord Ex, 4cyl, with Manual Trans uses an excessive amount of oil if I allow High RPM's.
    Compression Test shows 180 across all 4 cyl. Mileage is 155,000
    The Engine uses NO OIL when I keep it below 3000 RPM.
    If I go to RED LINE getting on the freeway I can use a quart per 500 miles.
    The engine is fine, no issues. I plan on continuing to drive as I wish and just add the oil.
    The Spark Plugs are getting used up about every 25,000 as a result of excess oil use.
    Could this be a Valve Sleeve issue?
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    blufz1blufz1 Member Posts: 2,045
    It's no problem. Just top up the oil and keep rollin'.
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    Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    don't let high compression fool you. An engine can show excellent compression on a gauge and still have worn oil rings because it is the top compression ring that gives you the reading, not the lower oil rings.

    You could have worn valve guides or valve stem seals, yes--an easy test for that is to take along a passenger and have them looking at the rear of the car while you rev it up on a freeway ramp, and then, making sure NO ONE IS BEHIND YOU, let off the gas, in gear, so that the car 'brakes" by compression alone (don't touch the brakes), and then...once the car has slowed down, PUNCH the gas again---if you have worn valve guides or seals, you will see a substantial puff of blue smoke out the back of the car, because you have created a high vacuum situation when you let off the gas. The high engine vacuum would suck oil through the worn valve guides into the combustion chamber.
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    bajajoesbajajoes Member Posts: 48
    Thank you for the tip. I tried what you suggested by punching it in 2nd gear to 5000 rpm and then let off to 2500 rpm to allow comprsession to brake the car, then re-accelerated to 4500 rpm and saw NO Smoke or even visible exhaust.
    On first start in am there is no exhaust visible only a small amount of water out the tailpipe which clears up shortly.
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    Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    so I think we can rule out valve guides or stem seals.
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    dcman19dcman19 Member Posts: 4
    OK, thanks for the help, hopefully I can get this figured out sooner rather than later.
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    ronald58ronald58 Member Posts: 1
    My 1999 Accord has the Check Engine Light with code P401, EGR flow insufficient.
    I replaced the valve. Light came back.. I opened the valve with direct voltage and engine idle was a little rough. MAP went up from 28 to 35 %. I removed the valve and started engine. I have vacuum at the inlet port and exhaust blowing from the exhaust port.
    Does anyone know how the computer detects low EGR flow ?
    and how do I clean the EGR ports if that is what is needed ?
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    hondalove4lifehondalove4life Member Posts: 1
    I have a 99 accord that would randomly stall on the highway, very dangerous if this happens, anyways took it to a honda dealer and there was a recall on the ignition switch. They replaced it for free.
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    lll3lll3 Member Posts: 10
    Does the recall apply to the 2000 Honda Accord LX ?
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    mitchfloridamitchflorida Member Posts: 420
    Probably. Call up your Honda dealer and give him your VIN number so he can check it.
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    kobiewankobiewan Member Posts: 1
    I know this blog is old. However, I have an I4 99 Honda Accord and recently had a p1456 code. Problem is that there is an extra vacuum port on this plastic "Y" shaped vacuum that has nowhere to go but inside the 2 way valve cover. What does this extra port go into? Or is it capped off?
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    tcain1966tcain1966 Member Posts: 2
    98 Accord is cutting out intermittently when warmed up. EGR new & ports clean in intake, no vacuum leaks found, happens at low end runs great above 2500 RPM's never dies just drops off to just below normal idle range then back to wherever it was. 2000 RPM down to 400 or so then right back to 2000. Just replaced the Main Relay and no change. It does this about half the time when the car gets to operating temps. Injection system just cleaned.
    Also, I cant hear the fuel pump run when I turn the switch but would it run at all if the fuel pump wasn't working??
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    rhubertyrhuberty Member Posts: 18
    I have a 98 as well - Try the idle air control valve. I'd say w/ 95% certainty that's it. It's a PIA to get at and is located between the firewall and near the throttle body. I believe 2 or 3 screws to remove...you have to really feel for them. The IAC has a few coolant lines attached. I would suggest just removing the screws and leaving the coolant lines in tact. That should give you enough clearance to lift the IAC high enough up to spray with some heavy duty carb cleaner. You have to work it over good and get all the carbon and crud gone. When you screw it back on you should be able to use the same rubber gasket but you might want to put a little blue rtv sealant on to hold the gasket in place. Your other option is to replace the IAC with a new one but they are a bit spendy. My accord has 215K and I did this 15K ago with no issues since. Good luck!
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    bashful928bashful928 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1998 Accord Ex with approximately 163,000. I have noticed lately that it feels like it is going to stall when I approach a stop light or stop sign. About two months ago it stalled on me 6 times on my way home from work. The next day it started perfectly and when I came up on a stop sign it was fine. However, when I drove it for a while, I came up to another stop sign and it stalled on me again, and then a while later as I came upon another stop sign it sputtered like it wanted to stall but didn't. On my way home form work, it was fine and had been for a couple of weeks and now it is starting all over again. However, it hasn't actually stalled...yet. Maybe on my way home tonight? Ha! BUT, this morning when I got in my car, the CHECK ENGINE light went on. My car still feels like it wants to stall. Any ideas? Anyone??? It has been a while since my last tune up. I had the oil changed about a month ago.
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    tcain1966tcain1966 Member Posts: 2
    First step would be visit one of the parts stores close by (AutoZone, Advance, etc...) and have them read the P code from your CEL indicator. This should indicate if it is in your Catalytic convertor, EGR Valve, O2 Sensor, etc..
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    isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342

    @bashful928 said:
    I have a 1998 Accord Ex with approximately 163,000. I have noticed lately that it feels like it is going to stall when I approach a stop light or stop sign. About two months ago it stalled on me 6 times on my way home from work. The next day it started perfectly and when I came up on a stop sign it was fine. However, when I drove it for a while, I came up to another stop sign and it stalled on me again, and then a while later as I came upon another stop sign it sputtered like it wanted to stall but didn't. On my way home form work, it was fine and had been for a couple of weeks and now it is starting all over again. However, it hasn't actually stalled...yet. Maybe on my way home tonight? Ha! BUT, this morning when I got in my car, the CHECK ENGINE light went on. My car still feels like it wants to stall. Any ideas? Anyone??? It has been a while since my last tune up. I had the oil changed about a month ago.

    You have a sixteen year old car with a ton of miles on it. All any of us can do here would be to guess and guessing can get expensive. It could be a number of things and continuing to drive the car in this condition isn't a good thing to do.

    I would take it to a dealer or a TRUSTED independent and have them take a look. You don't want it stalling out on you at the worst possible time!

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