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Honda Accord (1998-2002) Maintenance and Repair

1568101145

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    normkolnormkol Member Posts: 135
    I believe Honda recommends 90k. I did mine at 75k, along with the water pump, which is usually the recommended way.

    I wish you better luck than I had. The mechanic cracked the timing belt cover and knocked over the oil dipstick tube, which is right next to it. Oil all over the engine compartment. He repaired it and cleaned the engine compartment, but what a mess.
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    dleghofdleghof Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2000 Honda EX that I just took to the shop recently. It's making a noise-can't really explain it, I'm just WAY more aware of engine noise these days. The mechanic said that it was coming from the differential/transmission area. He drained the transmission fluid, but couldn't find anything wrong. It only has 62,000 miles on it-way too early for the transmission to go out, but now I'm stuck with a noisy car that I can barely stand to drive anymore. I'm afraid if it can't be fixed, I'm done with Honda, which is the ONLY make of car that I buy. I'm really disappointed, dleghof
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    jaedleejaedlee Member Posts: 59
    Thanks Normkol. Did you get it serviced at Honda dealer? I'm to the point where since i know i'll get ripped off anyways, i'd rather get ripped off from a big company, like the dealerships. I never feel good after i get charged an arm and a leg for a service on the car. Now i know why people lease. How much did it run you?
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    everett1959neverett1959n Member Posts: 1
    I own a 98 Honda Accord 4 cylinder Vtec engine and it is stated in the owners manual under the Maintenance Schedule section (At 105,000 miles or 7 years to replace the timing belt,timing balancer belt,and inspect the water pump).
    However i feel it is better to replace the water pump as you are there at it when the timing belts are replaced.
    Check your owners manual and you may save some costly maintenance and money.i am looking at my manual as i am telling you this.This manual is for both 6 and 4 cylinders.
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    moore0012moore0012 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Accord and I am looking for the procedures for changing the cabin filter. Would you send me the pdf file that you obtained? If would be greatly appreciated.
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    normkolnormkol Member Posts: 135
    No, I used a private mechanic. This was in January and I haven't used him again.

    Besides the problems I mentioned, I told him to use Honda antifreeze, and even offered to get it for him. He admitted later that he used a regular aftermarket. I then gave him a gallon of Honda antifreeze and insisted he redo it.

    I think I paid about $450, but that included changing some hoses and the thermostat. He only changed the upper and lower radiator hoses, even though I asked him to change them all, heater and bypass. The car has 80k miles, and I thought that while changing the water pump, this would be a good time to overhaul the entire cooling system.
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    nvaidyanvaidya Member Posts: 1
    hi, i have an accord ex-v6 1998 that as of 3 days ago has begun having a problem. the power locks don't work, either from the remote or the thing on the door; the alarm system is off and non functional, and lastly, the passenger side windows cannot be opened or closed from the driver's door panel, but can be opened and closed from the door that the window is on. any diagnosis? we tried changing fuse #12 and did a visual inspection of all the others and they were all fine. help!!!
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    tylerwm94tylerwm94 Member Posts: 26
    I also paid about $450 to have the timing belt and water pump replaced on my 98 Accord about 6 months ago. I did not have the work done at the dealer.
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    vicktoryvicktory Member Posts: 7
    I have the same problem. I have a 2001 EX V6 accord coupe. I just had my timing belt and water pump replace in late May. I went to attempt to use the cruise control over the weekend and it does not work.

    the light on the dashboard lights up and the light in the display lights up but the cruise control does not engage.
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    normkolnormkol Member Posts: 135
    Has anyone changed the O2 sensors on a 2000 vintage I4?

    I got the code for the front sensor, the same as I got a year ago. I reset the code then and it didn't come back for a year. I reset it again now, and it hasn't come back yet, but I think it's time to change the sensors. The gas mileage is dropping, probably due to the sensors being out of range.

    Is it hard to break them free, after six years? What do you use, WD-40 or is there something better?

    Thanks.
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    fazzerfazzer Member Posts: 3
    I had the same problem, with a 99 accord Lx(4cyl). It may be the struts or the bushings for the struts. Honda dealer wanted $300.00, but we went to Meineke with their coupon paid about $175.00. Good Luck! Mark...........
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    fazzerfazzer Member Posts: 3
    I have a 99 Accord 4cyl with a noise we cant stand also. When you accelerate it has a whistle sound. Only does it when steady on the gas pedal, not when you punch it. It goes away when in neutral (auto trans). If this is your case, please email me back. Thanks, Mark........
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    djlumendjlumen Member Posts: 1
    having a problem with my 99 accord. its a manual 5 speed trans with a 4cyl 4door. right now the car will not shift into 1st, 3rd or 5th; but will shift into 2nd, 4th and reverse while the car is running. it will shift into 1,3,5 will the car is not running. if anyone has a clue on what could be wrong i would greatly appriciate it. I took it to one shop and he had been working on Hondas for nearly 20 years and he had never even heard of anything like that although he isn't a trannsmission guy. thank you
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    c8znoogiec8znoogie Member Posts: 1
    hi,

    what a coincident. i was looking for instructions myself. took me a few hours to find it. but, here it is

    http://cgenterprises.com/cabinairfilters/cabin%20air%208603.htm

    i went into so many sites listing and selling the filters. but, this is the only site that actually has the instructions. i can't wait to try it out myself.

    good luck!!
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    bigassfrobigassfro Member Posts: 1
    Mark,

    I have a similar issue with my 98 Accord LX. Can you please elaborate on what the issue was and how you resolved it. Thanks.
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    cards_200cards_200 Member Posts: 44
    '99 LX w/120K - What is typical life of alternator? I assume brushes wear at some point. Is it wise to replace it before it fails? Also rear drum brakes are original. What is typical for drum brakes? Are they easy to inspect wear? Should I assume they probably need replacement at 120K? Thanks.
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    thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    I have 163,000 miles on my 1996 Accord, and have the original alternator AND rear brakes, although my fronts lasted until 131,000 miles (lots of highway use for the first 100k miles or so).
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    nlsnls Member Posts: 65
    This is another link for the instructions. It was not as straight forward as it seemed to be when I tried it on my 98 Accord EX, so I ended up getting it done by my mechanic. Many things needed to come off before the filters could be accessed.
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    mrbill1957mrbill1957 Member Posts: 823
    Many alternators last the life of the car. I've driven cars for 200k+ with the same alternator.

    As far as the drum brakes, although they can last for a long time, I would inspect them since you have 120k on the car.

    If you are going to do it yourself, it's usually easy to do.

    Remove the tire. If the drums have never been removed since new, there is probably 1 or 2 metal clips on the studs, remove them and discard, they are only there to hold the drums on at the factory. At this point, the drum should just pull off, if not, you may need to help it along with a hammer by tapping on the back edge and on the side of the drum, alternating back-side back. What happens over time is the center area of the drum rusts up where it fits over the hub.

    Once off, inspect both shoes, top to bottom. I would replace them if they have less then 1/8" of material left.

    Mrbill
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    redilsredils Member Posts: 1
    Freddie2,

    I've had the same issue with a '98 accord with (new to my daughter) 106,000 mile car. Have you been able to determine if it was the switch, the main relay or maybe the key being too old and therefore too worn? :confuse:
    TIA
    DZ
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    boomer11boomer11 Member Posts: 2
    My wife's 2K Accord has started acting up a bit. The gear selector on the floor will not move from time to time. She can't push the button. Her foot is on the brake etc but it just won't push in. Doesn't happen all the time. The only other tranny "problem" has been a strange stall where the car is in gear but doesn't engage right away.

    Any ideas....

    Thanks in adavance.
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    thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Is it a V6 model? If it is, didn't this V6 transmission have some osort of recall/extended warranty? Anyone, please respond. I can't remember, and I'm headed to the beach for the weekend, so I won't be here to respond...

    Have you tried using the "Shiftlock" release?
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    austexaustex Member Posts: 62
    I ran into the exact same problem. Mine is a 98 Accord LX sedan 4 cy. But in my case the battery is good. All other problems are same. This happened 4 days ago and i am still searching for answers. If you hear anything please let me know as well. Thanks
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    austexaustex Member Posts: 62
    I found some info on this. Hope this helps you.
    http://groups.google.com/group/rec.autos.makers.honda/browse_thread/thread/7422f- a8b4c956654/ad47d87ea0ea3943?lnk=st&q=power+locks+dont+work+on+98+accord&rnum=1#- ad47d87ea0ea3943">link title
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    timmysgotaguntimmysgotagun Member Posts: 2
    I just bought this '98 Honda Accord LX from a private dealer near where I live. It is now having problems and I have only owned the friggin thing for 3 days. When I accelerate sometimes the car won't "catch". Meaning, when I reach 20 mph, it feels like the engine isn't accelerating, like it has just stopped, then the rpms go crazy, and all of a sudden it jolts forward and then it moves. Then it does it again when I reach about 40 mph. I can't figure it out. When I switch the car into 2nd gear, it works great. But then when I switch it back to Drive, it bugs out again. I am at a loss as to what the problem is. Somebody please help me. Also, when I am standing still, and I switch the car into reverse, or drive, the car jolts quickly. Anyone know what that's about? Thanks alot.

    Jake :confuse: :mad:
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    defrankonddefrankond Member Posts: 3
    hello Htran, i have a 98 honda accord LX 4Cyl and I have noticed the same problem. I took it in and had it checked out. Turns out that it was a stabilizer linkage pin which only cost 60 bucks to fix. It is caused when pot holes are hit it fatigues the metal and causes it to snap. mine was on the passenger right side and it sounded like someone had two metal bars they were banging together. i could also feel it in the break pedal and gas pedal. but at highway speeds i did not feel it. easy fix for a not so dangerous problem.
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    defrankonddefrankond Member Posts: 3
    if you are still below 100,000k miles you should be elgible for a replacement transmission. there were some transmissions that were affected with faulty parts and honda has issued a extended warranty for them to be fixed. you should take it to a honda dealer and have it checked out.
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    timmysgotaguntimmysgotagun Member Posts: 2
    Unfortunately, my car is over by about 28,000 miles. So, there is no luck for that...The dealer said he would refund us, so we'll see what happens.
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    j4brugj4brug Member Posts: 1
    Have an 01 Accord with 5 speed standard transmission. Started noticing drops of oil under the tranny. Took it to my local mechanic and he told me that it was fluid from the hydraulic clutch and that the transmission would need to be rebuilt. Clutch pack and various other parts. Anyone have any problems with the standard tranny. The car has about 95000 miles. Did Honda extend the warranty on standard transmissions also?
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    dsbroylesdsbroyles Member Posts: 1
    98 Honda Accord LX, 6-cyl, 84,401 miles...went to store tonight. On the way home, the automatic transmission wouldn't shift to the next gear while driving down the street. Once I let off of the gas, it finally shifted. But then, the ABS indicator light came on. As I turned on the turn signal, nothing happened. Then I noticed that none of the dash indicators was functioning. Then I noticed that it was getting warm, but no air coming from the a/c. It was on, so I turned it off. When I did, the dash indicators started working. I limped home, not sure what had just happened. I waited a couple of hours, then took it around the block. Everything malfunctioned as mentioned above. It's as if the transmission was in neutral, but the car was still traveling. However, the car died as I pulled into the driveway. I shut it off, then tried to start it. It made the clicking sound as if the battery was weak. However, the battery was just replaced by AAA during an on-site repair on the 28th of June. Any ideas?????
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    bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    I'm not a whiz on manual transmissions, but a leak in a hydrolic clutch does not mean the tranny needs to be rebuilt. Or even that a clutch plate, etc is needed.

    You car may truly need all this stuff, but I would be very suspious of this when all that was initially seen was a leaky hydralic line or cylinder.

    I time it would be time for a second opinion.
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    lletournlletourn Member Posts: 19
    I have a 2000 Accord SE with 89K, and at an express oil change place they recommended I have my spark plug wires replaced because they are the originals. I don't see this is the owner's manual, and am hesitant to replace something just because it is original.

    Do you think it is time to replace the spark plug wires? How will I know when it is time to replace them? Thanks!
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    lletournlletourn Member Posts: 19
    After going through my service records today I saw some service comments from my last oil change. They recommend:
    transmission service,
    radiator service,
    new air filter,
    an engine flush.

    I've followed the car's maintenance schedule but don't recall any of these having been done before. The car runs fine, so I'm wondering if these are good maintenance suggestions (I'm not always convinced suggestions from quick lube places are legit).

    Any advice on how freq. to have these done and how to tell if you need them would be great! Thanks.
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    user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    If you consult your owners manual, if you adhere to the normal or severe service depending on the driving you do and location you live in, you should be OK. Edmunds also has recommended maintenance interval informatin for your vehicle.

    I would be very of having transmission service done at a quick lube location. Honda recommends only Honda AT fluid. We are talking an automatic right?

    Personally, I had my '02 AT 4speed transmission flushed at a dealer at 30K and noticed appreciable shift improvement. Some say this is early. How many miles on your car?

    At somepoint, it is advisable to get the brake fluid changed, and also the engine coolant changed.

    If you can use a screwdriver, you can replace your engine air filter quite easily and cheaply.
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    lletournlletourn Member Posts: 19
    Yes, the car is an automatic and it has 89000 miles. Thanks for the advice about the Honda AT fluid. I typically take my car to the dealer for maintenance and repairs, but the local one has horrible service so I'm looking for a new place.
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    user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    a place dealing specifically with Hondas / Acuras might be an option - Point is they should be using Honda ATF. I think they should be using Honda's Antifreeze formulation as well, but am not sure.
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    normkolnormkol Member Posts: 135
    Spark plug wires get changed for either high resistance or arcing caused by insulation breakdown.

    If your car is running well, you can wait until the 105k recommended time to change the spark plugs.

    At that time, I would change the plugs, wires, cap and rotor.

    BTW, I did all this at 60k on the same car, 2000 SE. It is really easy on this engine.
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    bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    I got a 2002 V6 Accord. With low milage.

    But does this car actually have a 'cap and rotor'?

    I figgered it would have totally electronic ignition with individual coils on each plug fired by a black box, or at least a coil pack, still controlled electronically. No cap and rotor.
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    mrbill1957mrbill1957 Member Posts: 823
    I don't know what your 02 has on it, but if it does have a cap and high voltage wires, you can do a quick check for cracking of the wires and cap.

    Take a spray bottle filled with water and mist the wires and cap. If they are cracked, you usually will hear (and see of you wait till its dark) arcing.

    This will not verify if the resistance of the wires is OK, but it's something you can easily check.

    Mrbill
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    normkolnormkol Member Posts: 135
    No, the V-6 has no distributor, only the I4 of that vintage.
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    daylldayll Member Posts: 26
    I bought a 98 V6 Accord new and at 80,000 miles the tranny went out. I had Ammco replace it (still working better than new now at 125,000 miles). My local dealer was reluctant to assist me in any capacity regarding the transmission. (Last new Honda I shall ever buy.)My question is - Do I have any recouse with Honda to recover the money I spent with Ammco for the transmission?
    Some comments on my 8 year old Accord: Great power and handling, brakes, roomy, junk trannmission and [non-permissible content removed] paint (black).
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    honda00honda00 Member Posts: 29
    In 11 months my 2000 EX 4cyl will be 7 years old. At that time it will likely only have 72K miles on it.

    Does the timing belt need to be replaced at that point? It is at 7 years but it has very low miles. I plan on getting rid of the car when it is a maximum of 7.5 years old. How big of risk am I taking driving that extra 6 months?
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    thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    If you will only have the car another 6 months, you will be fine. I think as long as you stay under the mileage cap, you should be safe. I replaced my timing belt at 88k miles on my old 1996 LX Accord...so at less than 80k miles, you should be safe.
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    kwietstorm6kwietstorm6 Member Posts: 11
    My '00 Cpe has started to do the same thing (in regards to the gearshift not working) So I use the shift lock release to get it out of park (with Ebrake on and foot on reg brake). I have 2 questions

    1. How long can you drive while having to use the shift lock release to get car out of park. I cannot get to the dealer until next week but I don't drive my car that much (use Pubic trans for work) only on weekends. I don't want to do further damage by having to use this all the time (just started last friday and hadn't driven it for a about 5 days but was fine). Once i get past that she drives fine no issues until I put her in park again.

    2. If my solenoid has gone what is the av price for replacement? I am in Eastern PA
    3.If your brake light is out will that affect shifting out of park as well?

    Thanks much
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    jolpotjolpot Member Posts: 19
    I have Michelin MXV4 plus(46k) and cannot afford $112 per tire.I expected more out of the OEM tires since I am very safe driver, although, it has been on the road for close to 5.5 years.

    I am NOT an aggressive driver, just want to get from work to home(sometimes in extreme nor-eastern winter conditions). Something safe, long lasting and not pricey - can you please advise? I got the spiel from townfair guy about buying toyo's and almost every review on tirerack says this is good that is bad...tough to make a decision.

    Please help,
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    thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    I use Goodyear Integrities [sp?] (Integrity singular) on my Accord LX (1996 I-4 model). The size on my car is 185/65/15", but I'd assume they make a size to accomodate your car...They do fine, and rarely hydroplane even in heavy rain. I believe I spent between $300 and $400 for them, and that includes labor costs.

    PS, my girlfriend's Corolla came with Goodyear Integrity tires.
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    mrbill1957mrbill1957 Member Posts: 823
    Did you look at the Kumho tires?

    I've seen a few comments about them, and all were positive.

    Can't beat the price.

    Mrbill
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    jolpotjolpot Member Posts: 19
    300-400, a little expensive for me...I doubt if it can be cheaper than that. I am looking at KUMHO Solus KH16(Grand Touring) and Kumho Ecsta(Ultra high performance), both are in the price range of $45-50. Although, I dont know what is the real difference between Grand Touring and (ultra) High performance tires and whether it suits my style of driving...
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    chestnutchestnut Member Posts: 19
    I recently replaced the michelins (only got 37,000 miles out of them) on my 2000 Accord SE with the Kumho KH16. I like them. The ride is quieter than the michelins and just a little more harsh in the ride than the michelins were but the traction is much better. I am in south florida so snow was not an issue but they are great in the rain.
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    mrbill1957mrbill1957 Member Posts: 823
    Glad to hear that they seem to be good tires!

    Now you have to do a long term test report LOL.

    Mrbill
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