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Honda Accord (2003-2007) Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • bobstbobst Member Posts: 1,776
    We have a manual and we always use the handbrake when we park.

    I don't like leaving the car in gear when we park because someone could bump the car and damage the transmission.

    With the car in gear, the transmission is, in effect, linked to the wheels. If the car is bumped and moved 6 inches, then the wheels will move, and that means the gears in the transmission will try to move. For the transmission gears to move, the engine will have to turn over a little.

    This could put a lot of stress on the geras in the transmission.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Manual transmission cars and trucks have been pushed much farther than 6 inches, or 60 feet for that matter. When a manual vehicle has a bad starter it can be pushed by another vehicle to start it. It's never happened to me, and even if it did, I don't think it would hurt a thing. If someone bumped my manual truck, I would be more worried about body damage than engine or transmission damage. I have been not applying the hand brake on my cars and trucks for 29 years, and I this bumping theory of yours is not going to change my mind. You'll have to come up with something better than that. ;)
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    i'm with you. i've owned both manuals and now automatics, and while on an incline (where if on a street i would position the wheels as recommended to avoid the vehicle moving further), i would put the brake on in addition to leaving the vehicle in gear (manual), or in park (automatic).

    if however on level ground, and specially if parking for several days, say in an airport parking lot, i will not engage the brake, leaving it instead in gear (if manual) and park (if automatic) only.
  • parvizparviz Member Posts: 484
    When pushing a manual car to get it started, you would need to have your clutch engaged up until the time that you are ready to get it started and you release the clutch. So when you have the clutch pushed while being pushed for 60 feet or so practically the car being pushed is in neutral.
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    Bobst! Where the heck have you been? Good to see you - happy new year! :)
  • jsmith1975jsmith1975 Member Posts: 22
    It's funny you mention that. I have a 2007 Accord with about 4,000 miles and the brake handle was loose by 1,000. It moves almost a half an inch before it engages. I haven't taken it in yet to have it tightened, but I think it is a little odd too.

    I set it when parking anywhere except in the garage at home.
  • tankbeanstankbeans Member Posts: 585
    I hope you guy all turn the wheels when on an incline. Tee hee.

    To give my vote, I've never applied the handbrake to park except when taking my driving test. I find it funny that some people refer to the handbrake and some people refer to it as the parking brake.

    I've also been told that with manuals you should park it in neutral with the handbrake engaged to avoid tearing up the transmission as was said about automatics in the previous posts.
  • stickguystickguy Member Posts: 50,539
    well, I use the HB all the time in my accord (stick) and Odyssey (AT of course).

    On a stick, I learned that way, and swear by it. I also leave the car in gear just to be safe!

    IMO, I don't want the weight of the car being held by the tranny (or the parking prawl on an AT). Just can't see how that could be good for it!

    It is such force of habit now that I doubt I could leave the brake off anyway.

    I am still amazed that people put their car in park on a slope and let it lurch back (or up!) until the trans catches the weight.

    Oh, and I thought the handbrake adjusted automatically (maybe when you abck up?) although that might just be the brake part, not the handle.

    2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.

  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    well, i'm not even consistent. w.r.t. what i wrote yesterday, this morning, i found myself disengaging the HB in my AT Accord before engaging R and leaving my level driveway, and also applying the HB when I reached the my place of work (level parking deck). Hmmmm.

    But, I would not have done either (and neither would my wife) if we had parked our AT Odyssey. I guess, using our foot is too unnatural. ;)

    But seriously, for extended stays on the level, i will not apply the HB or EB or PB in our ATs. Just won't do it unless I forget to avoid doing so. :shades:
  • bobstbobst Member Posts: 1,776
    HI Pat, thanks for the greeting.
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    Good to have you back - they've been asking about you over in Smart Shopper. :)
  • blaneblane Member Posts: 2,017
    I've been driving for about a half century. I can't think of any time during that period that I had a reason to leave my car parked without setting the hand/emergency/parking brake.

    To return to the original question in bobst's post #3249, and a couple of responses, if any of us has had our cars at the Honda dealer's shop for any kind of service, the tech may have adjusted the cable linkage and the owner may never have been made aware of it. I wouldn't be at all concerned about bobst's 26,000 mile adjustment.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    When pushing a manual car to get it started, you would need to have your clutch engaged up until the time that you are ready to get it started and you release the clutch. So when you have the clutch pushed while being pushed for 60 feet or so practically the car being pushed is in neutral.

    At some point the clutch is released, and the transmission and engine are forced to rotate by the push (usually quite a few yards before the engine starts), and I've never seen a manual transmission or engine damaged by this.
  • tallman1tallman1 Member Posts: 1,874
    I always use the handbrake and leave my manual transmission in gear. I don't see ever changing... it's a habit now.

    Now there was a time many years ago in my 95 that I used neither while visiting a friend who's street was on a very slight incline. A neighbor knocked on the door asking if that was my car a block down the street up against a curb. How it didn't hit a parked car, I'll never know. :sick: So much for sticking to my habits!
  • halescornershalescorners Member Posts: 6
    My power door locks won't lock with either the key fob or door switches. All four doors unlock fine, but none of them lock. With the fuse removed, I can hear a faint click (relay?) when using the unlock key fob button, but no sound when using the lock key fob button. Does this mean that the problem is a relay, rather than a wiring issue, and is this something that I can fix myself? Is this a stand alone relay or part of something that I can't really fix? Are there any other debugging tips? My dealer won't even begin to estimate the cost for repairs, and wants $105 just to give me a repair estimate.
  • alien2alien2 Member Posts: 33
    Maybe it's your key fob. If you have two (usually two come with each vehicle) try the other one.
  • blaneblane Member Posts: 2,017
    The $105 is, no doubt, the price of one hour of labor. If they diagnose the problem in five minutes and then fix it within that hour (very likely) your cost is still $105. That is, unless they need a part. In which case the cost of the part would be extra.
  • halescornershalescorners Member Posts: 6
    It's not the key fob, the door switches don't work either.
  • halescornershalescorners Member Posts: 6
    Yes, I understand that, but what I am looking for is technical advice.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    There are two ways to go about this. One is to get the trouble codes from the Multiplex Integrated Control System (MICS) or to test the individual switches. If you have a tool to test for continuity (test light, or multimeter) I can give you the testing instructions for the door lock switch. But if you aren't willing to take it apart and test it, why bother. If you really want to fix it yourself, and are willing to do the troubleshooting, let me know.
  • halescornershalescorners Member Posts: 6
    Yes, I am interested in fixing it myself. I have a DVM, etc. ANY ASSISTANCE YOU CAN PROVIDE WILL BE GREATLY APPRECIATED!
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Ok, I'll have to do some copying from the service manual, so it may take a little while.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    image

    Pry the panel up starting from the rear (closest to the arm rest) being careful not to break it. I didn't want to have to post too many pictures, if I don't have to. Let me know how it goes. Good luck
  • halescornershalescorners Member Posts: 6
    Thanks a lot for the assistance! The passenger side switch checks out, but I think it is more likely the driver's side switch as it is the only one that ever really gets used. When I take that one apart, it looks much different from the passenger side. Cold you please post that one as well?

    Mike
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Try testing the actuator. You may get lucky
    image
  • exshomanexshoman Member Posts: 109
    We have a 2005 Accord with abour 26000 miles. During that time, we have had the handbrake tightened two times and it now needs to be tightened again.

    Hmmm, we just had our 2006 accord at the dealer to replace a Mass Air Flow sensor, and asked them to tighten up the hand brake because we have to crank it up pretty high to hold on our driveway. I counted 12 clicks before it would hold.

    The dealer, said "sorry, the handbrake is not adjustable, it's designed to adjust automatically".
  • halescornershalescorners Member Posts: 6
    Thanks again. I will have to try this as well. Do you have the info on the passenger side door lock switch? I would like to try this first as it is pretty simple to do. I have the switch off the car, but I don't know what the terminals are that need to have continuity under the three different switch positions. I have an EX if that makes a difference.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    The dealer, said "sorry, the handbrake is not adjustable, it's designed to adjust automatically".


    He lied to you
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Do you have the info on the passenger side door lock switch?
    The passenger side is the one I posted earlier (by accident). I don't think there is only a switch on the driver side. It's the entire control unit for all doors. This is the pages for the control unit (I hope).
    image
    image
  • exshomanexshoman Member Posts: 109
    He lied to you

    Shocking...Car dealerships have always seemed so honest to me...

    Pffft. Sorry, it's hard for me to keep a straight face while saying that.
  • wtruebritewtruebrite Member Posts: 3
    Hey, I'm new here. Wondering if anyone has any experience or knowledge on the following issues with my '03 Accord EX-L:

    -A/C compressor clutch will not engage, was intermittent to begin with,system
    is full, i've confirmed power at the compressor lead

    -Sunroof opens fine, but shuts only after 5-10 min of repeatedly hitting the button,
    it does not move forward at all until that 100th ish push of the button

    -Drivers door lock actuator is dead on LOCK...unlocks fine.

    This car has 55,000 miles on it. I'm the second owner. Bought it at 33k in Jan of '06. I took it to a dealer for diagnosis and asked for some good will from Honda last fall. The answer was "pay for diagnostic and we'll decide after it's diagnosed" ..$400 to remove head liner for the sunroof...$200something to pull the A/C compressor. And a simple "NO" on the door lock actuator. This is amazing for a Honda...I've owned more than I can count on two hands. I've referred to it as my "Ford Accord" Starting to think that I should apologize to Ford for the slander.
  • blaneblane Member Posts: 2,017
    As described, you've driven 22,000 miles in the two years that you've owned your 2003 Accord. When did these three problems first manifest themselves? From the beginning? Or more recently? At first I thought that the vehicle might have, before you bought it, been improperly repaired after an accident or was possibly in a flood.
  • wtruebritewtruebrite Member Posts: 3
    They came about independently. Fall of '06 for the door lock actuator. Spring '07 on the sunroof. And, a nice balmy 97 degree July afternoon for the A/C. I had the same hunch. However, Carfax, at least, does now show any accidents or repairs. It was a one owner local lease.
  • bonaparte22bonaparte22 Member Posts: 1
    I would appreciate suggestions for dealing with a fuel door which fails to open when pushing down on relase mechanism next to driver's seat.
  • garrickgarrick Member Posts: 30
    When should my first oil change be - I'm at 4000 miles and the dealer has called tellling me i'm over due but the computer still shows 30% oil life. The manual shows the computer will indicate service needed at 5%. Any suggestions?
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Do not take the car early like your dealer is telling you. Your car comes with an oil in it with an additive made to collect the engine "shavings" from an engine breaking in, and this oil shouldn't be removed until your regular oil change interval, which is at 15% oil life (at this point, your car will tell you maintenance is required by illuminating a yellow wrench, and showing a code in the odometer area as to which service you need (A1 - Oil Change, B1 - Oil Change and Tire Rotation, etc...).

    Go by what the manual says, not the dealer. The dealer is out to make money.
  • according1according1 Member Posts: 1
    Most vehicles I have owned have a spring loaded metal flap under the gas cap that keeps fuel from sloshing out. I noticed on my 2007 Honda Accord that it does not have that flap. Did it fall in or is this the intentional design?
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    That is the intentional design (no metal flap).

    You shouldn't be filling so full as to have the fuel get that high in the filler neck anyway - you could damage your car's vapor canister (somebody who knows more can chime in here, I can't currently remember the exact wording for it).

    I fill up til it clicks, round up to the next quarter, then I'm done.
  • tankbeanstankbeans Member Posts: 585
    You go a little further than I do. I fill until the click and then shut off. Then again I'm a bit on the compulsive side of trying to track my mileage as best I can and although a few extra drops aren't going to throw the numbers off too much it's still slightly less accurate. :blush:

    With regards to the vapor canister, I don't know much, but I do know that overfilling can cause a car to go into vapor lock (I believe that's what it's called.) I know that because a friend of mine has a habit of filling the car with too much gas and then driving off. She did this once and got about 10 feet from the pump and the car just quit on her. Apparently there was too much gas and it couldn't vaporize effectively and therefore couldn't be burned off. These are my two cents. ;)
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Well, the extra 25 cents helps keep round numbers when paying the bills :) and its not enough to create too much disparity since I usually put in at least 12 gallons per fillup. As long as my mileage is consistent (28+ in my 2006, 26+ in my 1996) I don't log it or pay much attention to it, unless I'm on a trip. The in-town variables are too great to extrapolate much from a 1/2 MPG drop from one tank to the next.
  • tankbeanstankbeans Member Posts: 585
    I gotcha. My mom says I'm too concerned with the small stuff. My driving isn't conducive to getting very accurate numbers. I don't drive more in town or on the freeway. I think I'm more 50/50, but on the freeway usually the engine is barely warm before I shut it down.
  • tankbeanstankbeans Member Posts: 585
    Does anyone know if it would be easy to replace a front bumper on an 03 LX Coupe I4 auto? Reason I ask is because somebody hit my car in the parking lot at work and cracked up the passenger side. My insurance will cover it, but that'll leave with the $500 deductible :cry: and I can't afford that. The parts aren't really all that expensive, but the labor is the killer.

    I got a couple estimates so far and one was $698 and the other $793. I want to see if I can do it myself or have a friend who may know body work do it, but I also don't want to screw anything else up.

    To put it in perspective the crack is about 1.5 feet long and there are softball sized holes along the lower edge of the bumper, could ice have been driven under the car to create that sort of damage when it was hit?
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    I'm not sure how you'd do the paint/matching work yourself unless you're really skilled.
  • tankbeanstankbeans Member Posts: 585
    That's what I thought. I'm just bummed about having to come up with the money to do it especially since I'm coming due for some maintenance pretty quick. :mad:

    Anyway, I know that the color on mine is about as common as booger green or earwax cold was in the 70's which is to say it's everywhere. I have a silver coupe and honestly every coupe I've seen of the generation save maybe 6 has been silver.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    I hate to rub salt in the wound here, but silver can be pretty difficult to match. I think this is one you're gonna have to get fixed yourself. You don't know who hit your car?
  • tankbeanstankbeans Member Posts: 585
    Absolutely no idea. I just walked out and saw the crack. I was mad. Oh well I guess thank god it's tax time and I should get a decent amout back.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    I'd poke around the parking lot and look for any damaged vehicles, maybe you can match paint colors?

    Not sure where you work - if its a shopping center type of place, its anyone's guess. As far as where I work, its the same people every day.
  • tankbeanstankbeans Member Posts: 585
    I work at Wal-Mart and I'm telling you most of the people that come in are some of the most ignorant people around. I'm telling you there idiots. I don't know if it's different anywhere else.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    I've gotten a buggy in the side at Wal-Mart - made me so mad I could spit bullets.

    I've become a Target fan since then - more medians in their parking lot so you can park in an "end" parking spot, get half the chance at a door ding, and buggies are stopped from rolling all the way across because of the curbage there.
  • stickguystickguy Member Posts: 50,539
    Mine is cracked too, and ~$650 seems to be what i recall the repair estimate was. I elected to just leave it along (the hole isn't that bad looking!) since my son was just getting his permit, and why fix it so he can just bump into something?

    You best bet might be to find a used one in a wrecking yard. I really is pretty simple to pop on and off, so if you could find one cheaper, it might be the way to go.

    Depending on what the damage is like, it is also possible to patch it. My body shop offers that, but on my car, the bumper was too deformed to just patch the hole.\

    So that, or silver duct tape?

    2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.

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