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Honda Accord (2003-2007) Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • tankbeanstankbeans Member Posts: 585
    Silver duct tape, poor mans body shop. My brother had a fender held on with duct tape once. LOL. Anyway, the crack is at the very edge of the bumper and it's flopping around. I need to get it fixed. If you like it's almost a tear if plastic bumpers can be torn.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Trying to find one in a junk yard sounds like a good idea. I had my rear bumper replaced by a body shop, and they did a good job, but no one can match the paint perfectly. If you could find one that color in a junk yard it would probably match better than a new one painted by hand at a shop. I would look reeeal hard. Good luck
  • tankbeanstankbeans Member Posts: 585
    Yeah silver's a dime a dozen. Unfortunately, I haven't found many junk yards that have vehicles as new as mine. Otherwise, the few that I have found don't have the part. Grr. Oh well. At some point I'm thinking about having the whole car painted as there are a couple other surface scratches and a dent in the hood that need to be done. However, all of that is very low on my priority list. Right now fixing the bumper is numero uno.

    Most of the junk yards around here have primarily 10 year old cars and older.
  • mamamia2mamamia2 Member Posts: 707
    This is still an issue.... The last I checked (My wife drives this car usually), at idle speed, when in gear, the RPM is at 600.... And the vibration (again, this is a V6) is quite noticeable.....
  • parvizparviz Member Posts: 484
    Another option to consider is what we are doing for a friend of mine whose son damaged the front bumper of her 528. We bought the bumper on line, had it painted at a body shop (in Sacramento, if you live close by and need info) and then the son put it back on. This way you save on the labor of R&R but have it professionaly painted.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Have you checked the engine mounts? I think 600rpm is about right for the idle speed in gear.
  • tankbeanstankbeans Member Posts: 585
    Just one more little thing to consider and I just thought of it today. If you engage the hand/emergency/parking brake and let somebody else drive your car you should tell them about it. Just about 10 minutes ago I let my mom's friend drive the car, I've been starting to try and use the handbrake because a lot of what everybody has said makes sense, and she didn't even look to make sure that the handbrake wasn't engaged. Long story short she was trying to get out of the driveway and spinning the tires because the rear tires weren't moving. I guess if one person uses the car once in a while they won't think to check. I was scared because once I disengaged the brake she left and almost "front-ended someone."

    That's a little phrase I just made up for hitting the front end of a parked car.
  • f0rl0rnf0rl0rn Member Posts: 71
    If you lend your belongings to someone be prepared to pay the price for their mistakes.
  • tankbeanstankbeans Member Posts: 585
    I know that's true. I was simply stating that if you're going to do something, apply the handbrake, that not everybody does you should warn them. I never gave it a thought until today.
  • twildtwild Member Posts: 5
    I need to replace the accessory power socket on my 2004 Accord. I have the new socket but don't know how to remove the surrounding hardware??? Any have a diagram?? Thanks.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Hope this helps
    image
  • twildtwild Member Posts: 5
    Thanks! This should solve my problem.
  • twildtwild Member Posts: 5
    Any diagram about removing the center console as it covers the other consoles I need to remove.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Any diagram about removing the center console as it covers the other consoles I need to remove.

    Still there? Still need it? If so, let me know, and I'll copy it for you.
  • shanna1017shanna1017 Member Posts: 1
    I have an 03 accord 4cyl manual with about 42K miles on it. The past month I've noticed three things that are alarming me.

    1) my brakes make a slight grinding noise when applying them but it doesn't happen all the time. it seems to happen mostly after a rain or when there's a lot of moisture in the air. And it isn't a loud grind, it's very subtle and sounds almost more like a rubbing noise. it's very low-frequency as well. And it always goes away after a few minutes of driving the car. is it time for new pads? any other ideas what could be wrong?

    2) when it's cold out the starter takes a couple extra seconds to start. it always starts (at least up til this point) but in real cold temperatures (below freezing) it sounds like it's about to die right before it starts. what could this be?

    3) in that same cold weather, i notice that sometimes the acceleration is a little choppy in 1st and 2nd gear (mostly 1st). i do let the car warm up for at least a minute before i drive. any ideas what this could be?

    thanks!
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    #1 - most likely pads, don't want to let it grind metal to metal or you'll ruin your rotors and have to have them replaced as well. Get it checked out.

    #2 - most likely your battery is at end of life. They normally last about 4 years. Take it to an autoparts chain (pepboys, autozone, etc), they do free battery and alternator load checks.

    #3 - not enough info, given engine performance could be a zillion things.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    1.) After rain, a thin layer of oxidation forms on the rotors, because of the moisture in the air. Braking for the first couple of times after the rain removes the oxidation, but is noisy in the process, making a rumbling/grinding noise. No problem. YOU DO NOT NEED NEW PADS until you hear the high pitched squeal coming from the brakes all the time when they are NOT applied. You'll know it when you hear it. Don't fret about the brakes, you do not need them replaced.

    2.) This is normal for most any car. I have a 2006 which takes longer to crank in cold weather. Any battery will have less charge in cold weather (by cold i mean Freezing or colder, typically). If it is WAY off from normal, you might get it looked at for free like Kiawah mentioned, but I ran into this the other day when the low was 17 degrees, and my car is much newer than yours.

    3.) This is normal as well, in every Honda we've ever had this has been the case. (2000 Odyssey, 1996 Accord, 2003 Accord, 2005 Accord, 2006 Accord). In fact, all of the symptons have applied to all of these vehicles, except the 1996 which seems immune from the oxidation on the brakes.

    To repeat, everything you've mentioned seems well within the range of normal operation. Also, you don't have to let your car warm up - drive moderately (keeping things under 3,000 RPM) until the car gets warm (check your temp gauge). This prevents excessive waste of fuel, and won't hurt anything at all. Just don't go redlining when the engine is cold.
  • stickguystickguy Member Posts: 50,547
    If that is the original battery, you might want to invest in a new one. You pretty much got the expected life out of it.

    Honda puts a real weak battery in the Accord. Mine just turned 2 years old, and in 40 degree weather, it sounds like it is almost dead.

    Last oil change, it tested fine, but that was 416CCA (off of a rated 440cca). Most replacement ones are rated at 600-700, which certainly could explain why it is lethargic in cold weather.

    THe brakes do sound like oxidation being scraped off (I get a lot of grinding like that too, and my pads checked out at almost new thickness). You didn't mention miles, but most tire places will do a free check, or just get it done with the next tire rotation.

    2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.

  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Have you guys ever listened to the engine starting on the 3.0L Accord vs. the 2.4L? It makes the 2.4L sound asthmatic and lethargic in comparison. The 3.0L cranks with rapid fires, almost machine-gun like. The 2.4L cranks with a slow coughing sound, not nearly as quick as my 2.2L 1996 does.

    I love my 2.4L, just thinking about some things that aren't quite pleasant about it (obviously I'm nitpicking to the nth degree here, just thinking out loud).
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    The 3.0L will crank for a long time, if you don't let the fuel pump prime up. If I turn the key all the way from off to start position, without giving the fuel pump relay time to pressure the system, it can crank for a while. Honda dealerships will usually change the pressure regulator when someone brings the car in for this, but it will not completely resolve it. If I take my time turning the key, it will crank right up. It also depends on how long the car has been sitting. If the car has only been sitting for a short time, all the pressure is not lost. The Accord's 3.0L engine must be pretty easy to turn over though, because my battery was almost dead, and it would still start the engine. My old Toyota truck (also a V6) would crank forever before it would start, and actually burned up the starter's brushes after a couple years.
  • mamamia2mamamia2 Member Posts: 707
    Have you checked the engine mounts? I think 600rpm is about right for the idle speed in gear.
    -- How can I check the engine mounts?! 600rpm maybe right, but I still insist that for a V6 this car vibrates execively at idle speed in gear... As I mentioned before, my '06 Sonata, a 4-banger, is a LOT smoother when idling in gear...

    I'm gonna bring it again to the dealership, have the service manager sit in the car but then also COMPARE it to another, comparable Accord. If that's the way the V6 Accord was designed, fine with me. But I want to check it out first.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    There is a TSB for adjusting the engine mounts. I will try to find it.
  • mamamia2mamamia2 Member Posts: 707
    Please, I'd appreciate if you check it for me, elroy. As much as I remember that TSB was NOT for my '05 V6 Accord...
  • twildtwild Member Posts: 5
    When I charge my cell phone from the accessory plug the 15A fuse blows. I thought it was the accessory plug which I changed out, but the fuse still continues to blow. The charger plug works on my other auto so I don't think that is the problem. Any suggestions in tracking down the short??? Thanks.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    The TSB was for the 4 cylinder models (sorry), and I can't find the explanation at this point. I do believe your problem also has something to do with the mounts though. My 03 V6 does not vibrate, in gear or not, so not all V6 Accords do this.
  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Member Posts: 823
    Is the fuse OK until you plug your cell phone charger into the accessory jack? Do you have another plug that you could try in the jack to see if the results are the same?

    Mrbill
  • chucko3chucko3 Member Posts: 793
    My 03EXV6 does not vibrate either.
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    ok, try this: insert the cell phone charger BEFORE you turn the key on the vehicle. turn the key and see if the fuse blows.

    my theory: you can blow a fuse easily if the charger plug / accessory port aren't aligned well in the process of plugging the charger or other accessory in. this causes the tip of the accessory to short the accessory port's contacts.

    if this fixes your problem, you'll know what to do going forward.
  • 2006accordex2006accordex Member Posts: 2
    I had problem with driver side door lock
    driver side door lock doesn't lock/unlock from control switch.
    so i went to dealer to fix it.
    it took five hours and they charge me $405.34.
    The problem is that part was $37.34 but labor fee was $362.95.
    Is it normal?
  • blaneblane Member Posts: 2,017
    Since your Member name indicates that you are driving a 2006 Accord, unless you do an awful lot of driving, I'd expect that your 36 month 36,000 mile warranty may still be in effect. If so, why was your door lock problem not fixed at no cost under warranty?
  • 2006accordex2006accordex Member Posts: 2
    My accord is 2005.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    What's the description for this part? If it's a wire harness (or something else that takes a while to replace) I can understand. But if it's just for the switch or actuator, 5 hours is too much IMO.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    You could pop open the inside of the door panel, and replace 'everything' in the door, in much less than 5 hours.....but they're probably using some suggested labor times. IMHO, you have paid for about a 3 hour coffee break.
  • roberts5roberts5 Member Posts: 35
    I have two mechanical sons telling me my engine valves are rattling and need adjustment. I have just broken the 60K mile mark. Is there a possibility of future problems? Is it OK to just let it go? How much does this usually cost to adjust?
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    A valve adjustment should cost less than $200, but just how mechanical are these boys? ;) 60k miles is pretty early to need a valve adjustment, but I guess it could happen.
  • mdx2008mdx2008 Member Posts: 13
    Hi All,

    I have a 2004 Honda Accord EX 4 door. which I rarely take to the dealership. I have recently replaced the brakes and tires but have done nothing else to the car besides change the oil approximately evrey 3,000 miles. The cars has about 75,000 miles today. I do have an extended warranty. Is there anything I should do to the car to prolong its life? Transmission fluid? As you see by name it inspired me to buy an MDX. Any help would be appreciated.

    Thomas
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Is there anything I should do to the car to prolong its life? Transmission fluid?

    I would change out 3 quarts. All the fluid does not drain out, so you can not totally replace it. Use only Honda ATF-Z1. The condition of the fluid that drains out will tell you how frequently to change it in the future.
  • channel121channel121 Member Posts: 19
    About three times a week I hear this high pitch whine/squeal from the rear of my Accord 2000 (100K). Now I am thinking it's the brakes of course. The weird thing is it only seems to happen at highway speed (70MPH) and when I am on a curve at the same time and for about 5-10 seconds. That makes me think it's something else. I am NOT applying the brakes when this happens. Ideas? It's been going on for a month.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Check to make sure your wheel lugs are tight.

    You may have a wheel bearing going bad.
  • channel121channel121 Member Posts: 19
    Ahhhh. That makes more sense. Will do. Thanks!
  • mal5mal5 Member Posts: 7
    I tried to open my 03 accord with the fob and the lights flickered and the button clicked but none of the doors unlocked. That was at-5 celcius. Could all the motors be frozen? It has worked before when the temp was alot colder.
  • tankbeanstankbeans Member Posts: 585
    Is 5 Celsius about 40 Fahrenheit? I'm sorry I'm used to the Fahrenheit scale. Anyway I've heard that sometimes even the locks on a remotely opened car can freeze. I'd try some WD-40, I found this works pretty well, or lock deicer to maybe get them unfrozen. It's the same scenario when you can't turn the key in a frozen lock. I know on mine there is only one exterior keyhole and sometimes I find myself using it, the keyhole, just to keep it working and keep it from sticking.

    Sorry about not being able to help more.

    Does your car have the remote windows, which can be opened from the transmitter? If so you can always open them and unlock it that way. I think if it's an LX or higher it should have them. I've been told that the DX's don't have some of the things like that. Sorry I'm rambling.
  • mal5mal5 Member Posts: 7
    Thanks I will give the wd40 a shot. Too bad the manual is in the glove box. What do I press with the fob to open the windows?
  • blaneblane Member Posts: 2,017
    This may be a dumb question, but what's the condition of the battery in your remote keyfob? Could it be time for replacement after five years of use?
  • tankbeanstankbeans Member Posts: 585
    Hit the unlock button twice and hold it down on the second pressing. The windows should start to go down within about 30 seconds.
  • mal5mal5 Member Posts: 7
    Thanks but the fob does open the trunk and the lights do flash so the signal is being sent. I tried the other fob and no luck there either.
  • mal5mal5 Member Posts: 7
    No luck, the light flashes on the first pressing and when I press the second time and hold, all I get is the lights flashing once more. If only I could fit throught the pass thru in the trunk.....
  • blaneblane Member Posts: 2,017
    "If only I could fit throught the pass thru in the trunk..... "

    It would probably be easier just inserting the key in the driver's door lock and twisting it.
  • mal5mal5 Member Posts: 7
    yes if only that worked
  • tankbeanstankbeans Member Posts: 585
    Your locks are frozen if even the key won't work, unless you've gone a long time without ever using the key hole in which case the thing might be rusted and immovable. I hope you can get into your car soon. Remember to try the WD-40. Just to restate that.

    If you have full comp, you could always brake glass, but there is probably a better way than that I hope.

    Good luck.
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