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Honda Accord (2003-2007) Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • georgedengeorgeden Member Posts: 3
    The Graduate,
    Thanks for your reply. What iam talking about is the sensitivty of the contact mechanism. When someone bumps the car the horn alarm goes off and if it's adjusted improperly t he wind can even make the alarm active. What I need to know is how is this alarm adjusted for sensitivity so I can roll it back to where it used to be. It only started after my final vehicle check while under three year warranty which expired on December 1st 08.
    GeorgeDen :(
  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Member Posts: 823
    Sounds like your describing an after-market alarm system. I'm unaware of any motion detection in the factory alarm system.

    Mrbill
  • tallman1tallman1 Member Posts: 1,874
    Bingo. You are going to have to find what kind of alarm was installed, George. Then either ask an installer to help or maybe you can find a manual online to see how to adjust the sensitivity.
  • tankbeanstankbeans Member Posts: 585
    That's not too bad. I have to pay more for the extra gas from having to drive on crappy roads and through snow. Maybe when I get my next set, probably in a week or so I'll grab a bottle, and maybe like another suggested grab a bottle of alcohol to clean off the muck.

    Sorry other guy I haven't looked in a while and don't remember your name. :blush:
  • georgedengeorgeden Member Posts: 3
    Would the fact that I have Lo Jack installed have anything to do with my problem or are they a seperate issue?
  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Member Posts: 823
    Lo Jack should be separate from the alarm system.

    What model Accord is yours? LX, EX, EXL? I don't think the LX came with a factory alarm system. Did you take a look around under the hood? Anything along the firewall or inner fender liners that may have been added? Do you see any added switches that sence if the hood is opened?

    Mrbill
  • hondalovahondalova Member Posts: 189
    Mine's an '04 EX-V6 Manual Coupe. As good as it is - t'ain't nuthin' compared to the 1991 Accord EX-4 Manual Sedan I had two cars before it. Bought it new for $15,750 - traded it in for $4,000 eight years later with 130,000 hard miles and the original battery, brakes, clutch, wires, etc. Couldn't kill the damn thing and I should've never let it go.

    Ahhhh...hindsight. Always 20-20, is it not?!

    Happy Holidays!

    -FS
  • packer3packer3 Member Posts: 277
    The adjustments for each action should be in your manual, if you cant find it go on line to the company, if it all of a sudden became more sensitive then there is a short somewhere, did you recently change your battery or didi it die out and you had to get it jump started.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    My 03 EX V6 sedan is at 60,350 miles, and I changed the front pads today (along with oil and filter). The rear pads were changed at 47,000 miles. I wish there was an easy way to adjust the brake bias, but it's not a big deal. I haven't had to have the rotors turned, and there are no problems with the brakes, so it's hard to complain. Transmission fluid (and maybe filter) is next, since I'm off work until the 5th of next year. I may take pictures, and do a how-to on that, since there is nothing in the service manual about changing the filter. :confuse:

    Happy Holidays :D
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    I did the transmission fluid & filter. Everything turned out great in that department (sorry no how-to). However, when I was re-assembling everything I noticed the air flow tube (from air filter box to throttle body) was split next to the clamp on the throttle body. I don't know if it was split before, from all the times I wrestled with that sucker, while checking/changing the air filter, or it happened that day. So I checked the part # for it on Majestic Honda website, and printed out the page. The shipping was almost $10, so I decided to see what the dealership would charge. I hand the printout to the parts guy, and ask what they charge for that part. He walks over with a dejected look on his face, and says "I have to charge you the Majestic price" :surprise: . I didn't ask him why, but I assume they have some "price match" guarantee or something. Since the Honda list price was $23.72, and the Majestic price was $16.60, I saved quite a bit, just because I handed him the paper with Majestic's price on it :D . Something you might want to try, when buying parts at your local dealership. I will be more careful with the tube, when checking the air filter from now on :blush: .
  • srizvi1srizvi1 Member Posts: 263
    thanks for the heads up about this elroy5, I didn't know dealers might match online prices. My 2004 Honda Accord EX Sedan w/ Navi is now at 125348 miles and I'm overdue on a lot of major items (transmission, spark plugs, coolant... Not sure what else). I will prob be getting these items done at the dealer and wanted to soften the blow by buying my own parts wherever possible. This might make it easier for me.
  • srizvi1srizvi1 Member Posts: 263
    i'm really not handy at all, but would love to soften the blow by getting my own parts for all these major services that I have to get done now. I'm at 125476 miles.

    For the spark plugs, you said you said $65 for them? Can you suggest which ones to get and where to get them from?

    Also, anyone know what transmission fluid to get? Coolant? I think the air filters i need for the 120k service should be easy to figure out.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    I always use Honda parts and fluids. Why buy a Honda if you're not going to keep it Honda? I used to order all my parts from these two web-sites
    http://www.handa-accessories.com/accord.html
    http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/
    because even paying shipping, it was cheaper than the dealership prices. Now, I will be printing out the on-line prices from these sites, and seeing if Barker Honda (the local dealership) will match the prices. That way, I get a great price, and don't pay for shipping. The best of both worlds. :D

    As far as spark plugs, you can get them at any auto parts store. Most of them have NGK (IZFR6K-11) Iridium tipped.
  • srizvi1srizvi1 Member Posts: 263
    Thanks for the advice elroy5. I had a hard time finding things w/ Majestic Honda so I focused on handa-accessories.com. I Logged into Ownerlink and matched the 120k and previous services with the parts on http://www.handa-accessories.com/accmaint03.html, looks I have to get:

    1) the "air cleaner element":
    ( Air Filter / Genuine Factory Honda Accord engine air filter - $20.49) (crap, I should have apparently replaced this at 105,000 miles too - I don't think I've done this since 90k)
    2) Replace automatic transmission fluid
    ( Automatic Transmission Fluid ATF-Z1 - $6.11)
    3) Replace dust and pollen filter
    (Micron Air brand Pollen Filter - Also called A/C or Cabin filters.
    Fits Years 2003-2005, for other years - $15.95)
    4) Replace engine coolant
    (Genuine Factory Honda long life antifreeze/coolant type2 - 1 Gallon Container 50/50 prediluted. - $11.73)

    The big question is how many to get of each. For the "air cleaner element - I assume air filter?)" filters maybe I'll do two of these since I have to do this every 15k miles. But for the antifreeze and transmission fluid, would one of each be sufficient.

    I'll go check out my local autozone for the spark plugs

    I've also been told a number of times now that I need to flush the power steering fluid. So maybe I should grab that from here as well:
    Power Steering Fluid
    Genuine Factory Honda Power Steering Fluid, 12 fl. oz container. $2.90

    I should probably go ahead and grab an oil filter too - Honda Oil Filter
    Note: part# 15400-PLM-A02 - $5.15. I always grab my own mobil 1 oil from somewhere, but never get the filter. I might as well grab it now, even though I'm not due for an oil change for a while.

    With the spark plugs, I'll check out my local Autozone. I should make sure it is NGK (IZFR6K-11) Iridium tipped? Any brand/pricing suggestions? Seems $65 is a good price from the earlier post I replied to.
  • srizvi1srizvi1 Member Posts: 263
    hmm.. scratch the comment on the replacing of the air cleaner element at 105k miles from my last reply. I think I accidentally looked at the severe part of the guide - all the increments are 10k miles. So, I think I am ok changing this every 30k miles?
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    If this work is going to be done at a dealership, I would just shop around for the total price (parts and labor). The problem with buying parts ahead of time is, many of these items should be visually checked, to see if they need changing. Things like brake fluid, power steering fluid, coolant, brake pads, and air filters need to be changed at different times IMO, depending on how and where you drive. It's hard to know for sure, without checking the condition first. Unless you can do all of this yourself, you could be buying parts/fluids you don't need. This price matching stuff is only really helpful, if you do your own maintenance.
  • tankbeanstankbeans Member Posts: 585
    I was wondering if there is a way to thaw frozen windshield washer fluid in the car. I don't have a garage and the washer fluid in my mom's car has gotten frozen. Can I put rubbing alcohol in it to thaw it out or do I have to take a hair dryer out there and try it that way?

    Thanks for any help you can provide.
  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Member Posts: 823
    I doubt the alcohol will do much. Alcohol will absorb water, but it has to be in a liquid form. I don't think it will do much if all the water is frozen.

    Rubbing alcohol is usually 70% alcohol, 30% water, if I remember right, that's about all the water it can absorb. You need to find the 90% alcohol for it to do anything.

    Mrbill
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Then it may take a warm day to purge the thin tubing going up to the windshield sprayers
  • tankbeanstankbeans Member Posts: 585
    I doubt I'll have one of those for a while. Thank you as well as MrBill for the replies though. I will try and find the 90% alc. and figure out a way to thaw the stuff.
  • blufz1blufz1 Member Posts: 2,045
    I got the oem NGK PZFR5F-11 laser platinum plugs for my 02 V6. They were about $10 each at Autozone. Always use Honda brand fluids in your car. I use the oem Honda air filters. I use a socket wrench with a 5 inch extension to remove the air filter housing on my 02.. The AF housing bolts are 8 mm on my 02. Your 04 V6 is not exactly the same as my 02. You could check with the dealer re the size of AF housing bolts and exact NGK plug for your 04 or Autozone can also look up the plug number.
  • bvdj84bvdj84 Member Posts: 1,724
    I am wondering about tire pressures in the winter, is it better to keep less air in them than I normally put in the summer. The summer I normally up the level a bit, because it feels and handles better, but I am wondering in the winter if it is better to keep it on the lower side or just keep it as normal. Which for me, would be the few over the recommended amount, if it says 30, the dealer said it was okay to put 35. Because it does drop down a few days later to a level 33 or so.

    About the Michelins cracking on the side walls, I have had those on an 06, but they always looked new, but I always had tire shine on them from the car wash. They literally looked new at 34k. no cracking. I had them rotated all the time too.
  • babbittdbabbittd Member Posts: 25
    2007 Accord Coupe - V6 automatic

    At first I was convinced it was a problem with the brakes. It doesn't happen all of the time. When I press the brake lightly the rapping sound starts and it is always perfectly in tune with the rotation of the wheel (one rap per rotation). Sounds as if it is the front, left. Pressing the brake a little more, the sound gets louder, but always in tune with the rotation. Brake a little more and the sound stops (as if crossing a line of some kind). It is not the brake though, it is something else. Outside air temp. doesn't seem to be factor. However, I only hear this problem while driving before the engine fully 'warms up'.

    The CV Joint? A wheel bearing? It is definitely not the ABS engaging.
  • bjjarmbjjarm Member Posts: 4
    Repost, as told this is more appropriate thread:

    Hello,

    I have a 2006 Honda Accord EX V6 with the OEM Tires (Michelin Pilot MXM4 93V - 215/50/17). The owners manual recommends the following tire pressures:
    Front: 32psi
    Rear: 29psi

    The problem is, when the front tires are inflated to 32psi, they still look flat. The tire is visibly bent quite a bit at the point of impact with the ground. I didn't think much of this, since they are inflated to the "proper" pressure.

    However, I just had all 4 tires replaced due to sidewall cracking (only three had cracking - 2 front, 1 rear). I am wondering if this bend is causing excessive strain on the side wall of the front tires which may cause this cracking (or at least enhance this?). The tires had about 20k miles on them and were original to the car. As I live in CA and don't have really bad weather, this seemed strange to me to see cracking. I'm just wondering if others have had this problem and what they set their front/rear tire pressure to? Thanks!

    Do other peoples front tires show similar bending? I'm not sure pumping up the psi to 35-37 would completely fix the problem, and I'm worried about putting the tire pressure up too close to max in the winter (@ 40 degrees here - not super cold).
  • tallman1tallman1 Member Posts: 1,874
    You really can't tell how much pressure is in a tire by looking at it. Several folks have posted that their Michelin OEMs have shown cracking so I'm guessing that yours is not an unusual case.

    Many of use go beyond the recommended tire pressures to increase fuel economy. My 06 EX-L I4 is supposed to be 32/30 but I usually run around 35/33 year round.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    I will usually put 2 pounds extra in each tire, just for future leakage, and colder days. It keeps me from having to add air as often. Not so much for mileage.
  • srizvi1srizvi1 Member Posts: 263
    I hear you, but if the dealership discounts anyways for bringing in your own parts, and I have to order the air filters anyways (I'm pretty sure I can do those on my own - I did them on my dad's CR-V on my own), I might as well order the rest of the stuff I feel. I just want to order the stuff I know I'll need. Since my car is past 120k miles, the Coolant definitely has to be flushed. I've been told by them that the power steering fluid has to be flushed. So, there's probably no need for another visible inspection to check, no? I have to do all these things so if I can save a few bucks on all the items I think the savings could be significant.
  • srizvi1srizvi1 Member Posts: 263
    Thanks for the info on the NGK PZFR5F-11 spark plugs. I'll head to my local autozone and confirm with them if I can use these for my 2004 Accord 4 cylinder.

    Hmm.. I wonder if I need a socket wrench for changing the air filter in my 2004 Accord? On my 2007 CRV, I don't think I needed any tools for changing either of its two filters.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Any maintenance you can do yourself, will help with the bill. The timing belt, done at a dealership, will probably cost $7-800 :surprise: , so you don't want to add much to that. Have the brake pads been checked or changed recently?
  • babbittdbabbittd Member Posts: 25
    Hi bvdj84,

    I have the '07 Coupe EX-V6 and had to replace those crappy OEM Michelin tires after 13k miles. And it wasn't due to my driving like an a-hole.

    Replaced them with Goodyear's Eagle RS-A (made in the USA or so they say). They seem to be a great match with the car. 19k miles and zero complaints.

    And I'm also in California.
  • srizvi1srizvi1 Member Posts: 263
    I'm not really handy so I think engine Air filter & Cabin air filter is all I can handle.

    The timing belt's something I didn't know anything about - I don't think I saw anything about that mentioned in the manual - when does that have to be done on a 2004 Accord 4 cylinder EXL Sedan?

    As far as the brake pads go, firestone had told me a litlle while ago that something needed to be done with the rear rotors, but when Honda did their visual inspection more recently (included in my $29 oil change w/ battery test and tire rotation), they didn't comment on the brakes.

    I should really get more handy. Maybe my new car will inspire me to do it? (I bought a new 2008 Lexus IS 350 today - details over in the Lexus IS 250 / IS 350 Prices Paid and Buying Experiencethread in case anyone's interested. I'll still be here in these threads since my '04 Accord will be handed off to my family and my wife still will be driving her 2007 Accord.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Oh, if it's a 4 cylinder, you're good. No timing belt for you (chain). :D
  • deliciousbassdeliciousbass Member Posts: 18
    I posted about this a few months ago, and thank you to those who responded (elroy5 and chucko3). When I unplug the connector to the master cylinder, it goes out. Anyone have a suggestion on how I should proceed? I assume there is a short in one of the wires, but would like some guidance from someone who knows.

    2003 Accord LX - 152,000 otherwise trouble free miles!

    Thanks!
  • bvdj84bvdj84 Member Posts: 1,724
    I had the 16's tires on the 4cyl, not 17's on the 6cyl. I could see how the 6cyl tires would have some trouble. Mine looked new all the way up to when I traded it.

    I lease my cars, so putting different tires on a leased car wouldn't be very appealing to me and would not happen at my expense. If you could prove the Michelins to be malfunctioning way before their warranty, then I believe they would have to replace them right. I know I had some kind of replacement warranty on mine.

    I am glad your tires are better. I did notice a bend in the V6 tires on the Accords, that would eventually break them down. not good. Mine did sorta did that, but not to where it caused excessive wear.

    The new Accords now use the same tire and size on the EX model and up trims.
    Looks to be a better fit. Looks like they hug the rim evenly.
  • f0rl0rnf0rl0rn Member Posts: 71
    I would follow the directions in the manual. I have an 07 4cyl. EX Manual. When checking/filling tires I do so as early/cold in the morning as I can when the car has been sitting over night. The air in the tires and in my compressor is cold and more dense. When driving or in warmer tempreartue the air will expand and have a different tire pressure. I believe the 32/30 or 32/29 is filling pressure. If you have been driving or fill in the day time during warmer temperature you will not be driving on the same pressure as my car tires would be. Filling at 35/33 for example during warm conditions may be the same as cold filling 32/30.

    My tires also exhibit the "low" looking bulge. I rotate my tires every oil change and I am at about 53K right now. I haven't measure the tread lately but visually they still look great all the way around. I think their are a lot of variable with tire pressure and it isn't as simple as just filling to a certain number in order to get the best life/performance out of the tire.
  • langjahrlangjahr Member Posts: 3
    I was wondering if sparks plugs are different. I read here somewhere, but can't find it again that a certain spark plug will give you aprox 5 hp throught all ranges, if this is true i would gladly pay double or triple for this, wouldn't eyeryone? , if it is also safe for the engine that is. Thanks for any responces. Charlie
  • f0rl0rnf0rl0rn Member Posts: 71
    07 EX 4cyl. Manual: 53K mileage.

    I just started getting my first brake squeal. It is the back right brake (drivers rear). I'll probably change them out soon. I know I should do both rear brakes at the same time. I haven't gotten down and measured the pads all the way around yet but I will.

    I have heard the rear brakes need changing before the front. Is anyone aware of that trend? How long on average after the rear do the front ones go out? Should I just replace brakes all the way around while I am at it? I may try tackling my first brake job ever this time around. What are the common pitfalls to pay special attention to? Should I go ahead and swap out the Brake fluid while down there?

    Also, some have told me that turning the rotors every time you swap pads lengthens future pad life and maintains best braking performance. I am told this is because it eliminates friction loss between rotor and pads by removing the grooving from the original brakes.

    I am sure there are other questions I should be asking but I don;'t know to ask. Any input at all is appreciated.

    Also, I will be ordering the Maintenance manual soon. Is it still only available through the website at the back of the Honda glove box Owners Manual?
  • f0rl0rnf0rl0rn Member Posts: 71
    I would stick with the OEM plugs. 1st reason is that horsepower and/or fuel mileage increases has not yet been proven to come from Spark Plugs in a lab setting. 2nd reason is that the Spark Plugs are part of the ignition system. It is possible to see HP gains by upgrading the system. But this is more than just swapping out plugs. Some cars have shown weaker performances by switching to a "higher quality" plug. It has something to do with heat and temperature fluctuations throughout the ignition system and how that relates to the rest of the engine.

    If you are going to be tuning your car then you would be fine. However, if you are ready to tune things out you should already be familiar with this.

    I would stick to OEM and save the money and potential damage by using a plug that was not engineered for your engine.

    Also, if you are looking for 5hp gains you should be driving a different car. Accords are not meant for "performance" like that. You probably would never noticed 5hp, the only advantage would be engine life through ease of moving the vehicle. Once you start passing 25-30hp you should start to feel the difference because of the power to weight ratio. The Accord is not a drivers car. Buy something that is small and light. Then small HP gains would be noticeable.

    Those are my two-cents. I am sure there are others who can correct anything I have said or provide a different perspective on plugs.

    Good luck!
  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Member Posts: 823
    One thing I found out the hard way, those tire pressure gauges can fail. or at least can be way off. I have a gauge in each vehicle, and one in the garage. The last time I checked the pressure, the tires were showing 10 psi low. Wow, that seems alot, but it's 20 deg. outside, and the last time I checked the pressure, it was 70 out. I filled the tires, and took my truck for a ride to get gas. The thing rode like a lumber wagon. I got back home and re checked with another gauge, now the tires are 15 psi high. Needless to say, the one gauge hit the trash can. The rest tested within 2 psi of each other. I just went out and got a new digital gauge, I'm going to bring all of them into work and verify with calibrated equipment.

    Mrbill
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    When I unplug the connector to the master cylinder, it goes out. Anyone have a suggestion on how I should proceed?

    One thing you may want to check. Take the cover off the master cylinder, and check to see if the rubber boot is hanging down. If it is, push it back into the cover. This has been known to cause the Brake light to come on, on older Accords. It may still apply.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    I have heard the rear brakes need changing before the front. Is anyone aware of that trend? How long on average after the rear do the front ones go out? Should I just replace brakes all the way around while I am at it? I may try tackling my first brake job ever this time around. What are the common pitfalls to pay special attention to? Should I go ahead and swap out the Brake fluid while down there?

    Yes, the rear brakes do wear faster than the front (on many 7th gen Accords). My rear brakes were changed at 47k miles, and the front were just changed at 60k miles. When you push the calliper piston back in (rear only) you have to turn it clockwise, while pushing. Then line up the groves in the piston with the tab on the inner pad backing plate (should be square with the calliper). There is a paste that comes with the oem pads, that is to be applied between the pad backing and the shims. This paste is supposed to keep the brakes from squealing. If the new pads don't come with shims, use the old ones. There are different opinions on wether or not you should have the rotors turned when replacing the pads. IMO if the brakes are working fine, and there are no deep grooves (1/8") in the rotor, I would not have them turned. It will only make the rotors thinner, and weaker. You just have to break the new pads in carefully. I have a link explaining this, if you want to read it.
  • tankbeanstankbeans Member Posts: 585
    For what it's worth, I have had an 03 4-cylinder since 36000 miles and am now just under 59000. I had the front pads replaced at around 42000 a little over a year ago. I don't think the rear drums have been serviced yet and I haven't had any problems. I'm getting an intermittent squeal, but it isn't constant.

    I'm going to wait until 60k when I take it in for its check-up and have them check it along with my alignment and all that fun stuff. I'm not handy at all. I can change pads and filters that's about it.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    I was wondering if sparks plugs are different. I read here somewhere, but can't find it again that a certain spark plug will give you aprox 5 hp throught all ranges, if this is true i would gladly pay double or triple for this, wouldn't eyeryone? , if it is also safe for the engine that is. Thanks for any responces. Charlie

    All any plug can do, is burn the gas injected into the cylinder. If the plug is not burning all the fuel, you will smell fuel coming out of the exhaust. As long as the oem plugs are in good condition, I don't see any other type of plug adding HP. A lot of people like to buy higher resistance plug wires, and not matching up the rest of the ignition system. The way I hear it, if the spark plug wires are stronger, they will only put more pressure on the coil and other ignition parts. I say keep everything OEM.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    I don't think the rear drums have been serviced yet and I haven't had any problems.

    Sorry, but I was talking about rear disk brakes only. Should have made that clear, I guess. :blush: My old truck had rear drums, and at 60k miles they still looked brand new.
  • tankbeanstankbeans Member Posts: 585
    I'm sorry, I'm kind of dumb. I keep forgetting that you have an EX (SE?). Either way I haven't had the drums checked, I've heard that they're a B---- and a half to fix. Pardon my french. ;)
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Yes, drum brakes have a lot more small parts, reassembly can get complicated, and are a dirty job compared to disks. The best way to make sure everything is put back together correctly, is to do one side at a time, so you can take a look at the other side for reference. Of course to do this, you have to jack up the entire rear end, and remove both wheels and drums.
  • mfish99mfish99 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2003 EX 4cyl. with 72K Miles. In the first snow storm of the year, my ABS light went on and my wheels would lock up, making my car just about undriveable. I was able to make it home and brought to my mechanic the next day. They replaced the calipers on my rear brakes, and the light went off. The next snow storm, the light went on again, and my wheels locked up. This time I had the car towed to my work parking lot. The next day, I drove the car and the light went off after about 5 monutes, and drives fine. My mechanic couldn't find anything else wrong. It sounds to me like a sensor problem when it snows, but I don't understand why the wheels are locking up? Has anyone experienced this??
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Can you describe what you mean by "my wheels locked up".

    Does that mean that while you were driving and then applied the brakes, that one or more of the wheels locked up and began to slide on the slippery surface, and if so, which wheel(s)?

    Or, do you mean, that the brakes applied themselves and locked all four wheels, preventing you from driving the car?

    Or, do you mean something totally different from those scenarios?
  • mfish99mfish99 Member Posts: 2
    The light comes on before I apply the brakes. I'm not even 100% sure if it it the actual wheels that are locking, but when I apply the accelerator, the engine will rev, bu the car won't move, it'll just spin.. Thanks for replying
  • avalanche2xavalanche2x Member Posts: 17
    I have an squeal/grinding noise that appears to be coming from the pulley. Does anyone happen to know if it is possible to replace the belt tensioner pulley without having to R&R the tensioner assembly? Thank you.
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