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I just got a 2005 accord ex (81300 mile). Today, I found that I hear a squeak whenever I rotate temperature control dial. It seems like vent moving sounds but it's high sound which makes me uncomfortable. Did you have a same experience with mine and how did you fix that? The cost would be high????
The sounds is getting much bigger when the dial is heading at the most left or right.
Thanks in advance for your input!!
Thanks,
Paul
I have a 2005 Honda Accord Hybrid 3.0L V-6 auto with navigation system, 50k miles.
The problem is when I drive the car, fairly firm take-off, all of suddenly my engine light started to blink then continues to blink. then when I cruise, the light disappeared. Since I owned the car the check engine light pops on very occasionally though. One time the check engine light finally stayed on, then I went to O'reilly's quickly and scanned the codes. It said that my O2 sensors were malfunctioning. That was one code.Afterwards, I suspect that ANC that apparently got toggled off and that sound harmonic suppression aka humming sound. I resetted the ANC, now the car is working fantastic, using completely hybrid mode finally! So therefore I suspect that ANC that wa off for a while so might have caused my O2 sensors to mess up prematurely. ANC is a module that deactivates and activates the cylinders-for example the engine would be running on 6 cylinders at same time, when cruising down the road, the "ECO" will come on and the ANC will turn on and the engine will start to use 3 cylinders to save most mpg as much as possible. I love the car to death. Its fast, saves gas, pretty car. I baby the car so much. I use 5W 20 Valvoline full synthetic every 5k miles. I use shell gas since I owned the car, which I finally convinced my wife to start using shell gas instead of looking for cheapest gas around in town.
So do you think that my O2 sensors needs to be replaced?
I also noticed black soot around the exhaust tips, usually it's a sign that the engine is running rich.
Also how can I adjust the engine to prevent from running rich?
I hope y'all can help me out with that problem.
Thanks,
Daniel
DIdn't know that the Accord hybrid had that in 2005. My 2005 Odyssey does though.
An O2 sensor problem could cause it to run rich. Not sure if that would impact the VCM though (and I really have no idea how it would tie into hybrid mode!) Unless you think that the Eco light means it is running on battery? IIRC, it just means it is running effeciently, and does not mean for sure that it is running on 3 cylinders.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
Man, what a difference. I put on Yokohama Avid H4s. Like night and day. No more sliding all over an off ramp in the wet (not much better in the dry weather). Actually feel safe hitting the brakes now too in the wet. The OEM Michelins were horrible tires, and very expensive.
Also need rear brakes. Actually, need 1 (of 4) pads. The outer R one has some meat, but the inner R is almost to the wear bar. Will milk it for a few more K before I get that done.
I called around for some prices, and got one guy (at Tires Plus) that obviously knows Honda. Not only aware that this generation went through rear pads fast, but even guessed it was the inner right side pad!
brake jobs have also gone up quite a bit since the last time I had one done. Expecially on this car, where an experienced brake guy with a lift can probably swap out the pads in about 10 minutes.
I also plan to leave the rotors as is if they look to be clean and smooth. WOn't cut them, and would rather not spend extra to replace them.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
A moron with 2 jackstands and a $40 socket set from Sears can do it in 30 minutes. Ask me how I know :P
And you can get a brake pad that better meets your needs (more performance or less dust, or longer wear, or sometimes all of the above).
daniel
I could also buy the jackstands and download instructions I guess.
And 50/50 I end up dropping the car on my self. But to save a few bucks, probably worth the odds!
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
For the most part, it hasn't been as much about saving money for me, its had more to do with enjoying working on cars and the satisfaction of doing something well. I get to look around and pick out the best rotors (for my needs), the best pads (again, for my needs), the best fluid, etc, and then spending an hour putting it all together.
I find a lot of comfort in having at least a Haynes or Chiltons manual with me, if not the factory service manual. The $8 is worth it to have as a reference (and also because it lists out the torque specs for everything). It also lets me know when I am up for something challenging - the '93 Accord had front brake rotors that were pressed in-between the upright and the axle...it took a press to get the separated. Depending on the vehicle, I will also drop the $20 to get 4 "speed bleeders" so I can bleed the brakes by myself.
The rears probably had enough tread to push 50K, but the front inner edges were shot. But mostly, I did it now because the wet traction was scary bad.
My mechanic said that often when the rear pads where uneven (the inner pad is almost shot, the outer has about 60% left) it is a caliper adjustment issue, and they would grease up the knig in (?) because that sometiems sticks. In any case, 42K on a FWD 4 cyl, with a stick, is just ridiculous. THe fronts are probably good for 75K+, and for sure they do most of the work.
People in th ebusiness know all about certain model year Hondas doing this, so consider it a design flaw.
In better news, I finally put in a new cabin air filter. Man, was that easy. No directions, and it took about 30 seconds (25 of which was picking up the junk from the glove compartment that spilled on the floor!)
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
Thanks in advance!
I went to an independent mechanic for my 75k maintenance and they did a tranny fluid change (not flush). My tranny died (slipping like what you experienced) about 40 miles later. The mechanic checked the tranny fluid and he said it was new, but burnt.
I brought my Accord to my dealer (Steven's Creek) and they got Honda to give me 75% goodwill to replace the tranny. I paid ~$800 total and it took 2 days--brought it in Monday, picked it up on Wednesday. I have a brand new 3 yr/36k warranty with the new tranny so I figure it was worth it. I think Honda would have given me 100% goodwill if I hadn't had service at the independent.
Figures that the 1st time I don't have maintenance at the dealer my super reliable car breaks-down. :confuse:
One thing: my tranny had to be relatively hot (run it for a while) before it'd slip. I had to drive around for about 15 minutes before we could reproduce it.
My front rotors warped and I could feel some pulsing when braking at high speeds (>60mph). I didn't want the Honda OEM rotors and pads, through they're supposed to be some of the best available. I got Brembo blanks and Axxis Ultimates up front and Akebono ProACTs pads on the rear (rear rotors were fine).
Braking performance was awesome, but my front rotors were shot and down to the minimum after 25k miles. The Axxis Ultimates are designed for auto-cross so they weren't going to last, but I didn't expect them to eat the Brembos! I wound up replacing the Brembos with a set of Centric Premiums and Akebono ProACTs pads.
The Akebono ProACTs on the rear are holding up fine and they're not eating the rotors like the Axxis Ultimates.
The Honda manual says to only use Honda antifreeze. I don't believe this to be true, but what type does it take - the regular yellow green stuff or the long life red. I think I remember that they are not compatible.
Also has anybody had problems with the windows chattering when they are going up or down. Mostly in warmer weather for me. I took the car in twice for this and they claimed to fix everything and replaced plenty of parts, but the problem still happens. While the rattling is annoying, my main concern is long term durability. Has anybody had the windows fail?
Thanks
Honda coolant is formulated without one of the chemicals that is in most anti-freeze because it eats cooling systems. Many European vehicles that have dissimilar metals in their cooling systems also specify special coolant. The Honda antifreeze hasn't been any more expensive then Prestone from Murrays so I don't really understand the logic there.
Also has anybody had problems with the windows chattering when they are going up or down. Mostly in warmer weather for me.
My '93 did that, my '07 does that. The window motors on the '93 were all replaced between 8-10 years old. I thought that was fine. It does seem to be annoying though.
Yikes, never had a power window fail in 30 years of driving (including lots of "unreliable domestics"). Sorry to hear this may be in my future. How much does it cost to repair one.
Of course the whole window thing is made worse by that wonderful key fob that will roll all 4 windows down at once. I use this all the time in the summer and it really helps to cool the car as the windows are all down before I even get in. The problem is more up and down on all the windows since I would probably not roll them all down if it did not have this feature. I would have expected Honda to make the windows a little more durable.
Maybe that is why they only get average marks for that area in Consumer Reports.
Thanks for the advice.
Also, is there anything from Goodyear that's similar in quality, performance, and ride, but less expensive?
Thanks,
Kelly
What type of driving do you do? Mostly highway or mostly city? Is it a curvy area or mostly straight roads? Any snow or just rain to deal with?
Check out tire rack for reviews. THey tested them against the Bridgestone (G009 pole? something like that) as a "sporty" tire.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
I've only had them since February so I'm not sure how they are in heavy rain, but in light snow I noticed a significant decrease in my car's tendency to slide around. It takes minimal effort to correct the slipping car with these tires.
That seems steep for a highway tire. My other vehicle's Bridgestone RE960 PP A/S tires were $100 under that. Regional mounting fees and disposal fees in addition to taxes might be some of that, however.
Appreciate your addressing this tires noise profile (TireRack gives it high marks here)
best, ez....
1) No, I don't think you should worry. Accords are quite reliable, expecially one as new as yours, so the odds of anything major happening (certainly expensive enough to cost more than the price of the warrenty) are very, very low.
2) Buying an extended warrenty for a lease car makes no sense in the first place, since you will logically never get to use it. I suppose you might be able to cash in some of the value at the end? But it still makes little sense.
Either get a lease, or buy a car with an extneded warranty and keep it for 6/7 years.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
Thanks
Also, check the tires to make sure they aren't dry-rotting (check for small cracks along them). Stuff like air filters should be changed at 30,000 miles. Hopefully she has the owner's manual? If she does, it'll have all the details you need. Enjoy your (like) new Honda!
Also had the brake fluid done. I was having it flushed anyway, but they did a dip strip test (like checking pool water) that showed purple, meaning time to change! Doubt it was a scam, since I had already told them to do it.
With the new brakes (front pads have about 7mm on them, so good for a long time yet) and recent Yoko tires, roadholding and braking are light years better. I can even go around an off ramp at more than 10 MPH without plowing right off it!
For the brakes, it was the inner (right side) pad that was worn down. Mechincs felt it was a sticky caliper slide that caused the problem (making the pad drag slightly), although the rotors had penty of meat to cut still.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
I have an Accord, Odyssey and and Acura TL. The TL drives much differently than the Odyssey, even though they have essentially the same engine and tranny (the Accord doesn't really count since it is a stick).
You also tend to "feel" the drivetrain a little more in a Honda than in some other cars, especially a 4 cyl automatic.
I would say go back to the dealer and test drive another used one like yours to compare. If they are the same, then you can pretty much assume it is the way they are supposed to be.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
thanks in advance to any kind soul who'll tell me what the spec torque value is for this model.
i've heard from a couple respected tire dealers ( retail ) that with alloys to come back to have them retorqued after 50-100 miles. Question: do you back off the lugs a little before retorquing to spec or just torque 'em from where ever they are positioned at that time? dumb question i know but i want to do it right and to do it myself since a bad experience with local dealer who tightened them so much, come spring i had to stand and bounce on the lug wrench for all 20 nuts to break 'em free. i specifically asked them to set spec torque before they started.
they charged for this and i wasn't aware of their screwup til months later.
i was po'd and passed the word at all opportunity.
thanks for your patience.
Dennis
The tranny in the Accord should be very smooth and linear. In my 2004 V6 Accord, if I'm going very slow I can feel it when the tranny shifts from 1st to 2nd. If I'm accelerating, then it's seamless and I can't feel anything. I know when it's shifting only because of the sounds from the engine and tranny.
The Accord has a drive-by-wire throttle. Meaning that there isn't any direct hydraulic connection from the engine to the gas pedal which can provide feedback. So you shouldn't feel anything from the gas pedal.
Some other folks have commented that you should test drive another car to compare. I agree. My take is that salespeople and mechanics will always say there's nothing wrong even if there is something obviously wrong when there's an incentive. Likewise, they'll tell you your car is going to fall apart and you're going to die in it if they want to sell you something.
http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/tech/techpage.jsp?techid=107
I've heard the same thing from tire-dealers about coming back to get them re-torqued, but I've never heard the same thing after getting my tires rotated (regular service) by the dealer. I've never gone back and I've never had a wheel fall off.
The common complaint I've heard is that the tire shop guys generally use an impact wrench for tightening, even on alloys and when you tell them to do it by hand. A friend with an Audi A6 has some plastic part (?) on his wheels that the guys at Sears destroyed when they use the impact wrench. :mad:
The fact that they have your problem documented before the warranty was up is a good thing. The dealer gets paid whether or not the work is under warranty, so I doubt they were jerking you around (for that purpose anyway). You should take the car back to them if it is having the same issue, whether or not it is currently under the powertrain warranty shouldn't matter, since they didn't fix the issue the first time.