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Honda Accord (2003-2007) Maintenance and Repair

18990929495117

Comments

  • dudleyrdudleyr Member Posts: 3,469
    Don't want to beat a dead horse about the antifreeze thing, but I did not get a chance to go to the Honda dealer over the weekend like I had hoped, and now still find myself needing some antifreeze.

    I just went to the prestone web site and they claim their extended life antifreeze is ok for all makes and all models. They specifically list Honda and specifically say that it does not cause premature water pump wear. They say compatible with all aluminum engines etc. etc. Outlined in the following video.

    http://www.prestone.com/hero/pop.php

    Are they really lying?

    I want what is best for the car, but if best means 1 or 2% (or even 10%) better I don't really care. If it means the difference between normal water pump life and failing in a year or two then I certainly want in. BTW I used Prestone in my Acura Integra (1990 model) from 1992 until present. Never had a water pump fail, but did replace it as a precaution in 1999 when the timing belt was changed the first time.

    Why would Prestone Ignore Honda and not make it compatible? Of course I can be my own devils advocate and say that by the time your car has had the water pump fail you may not even own it, or think about Prestone, and they are counting on that. Does seem a little cynical though.
  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Member Posts: 823
    Water pump components on Hondas are not unique to Honda.

    My guess the issue is with the compatibility of the coolant itself. If your going to do a total replacement, then I doubt using any extended use coolant would be wrong.

    Just my opinion.

    Mrbill
  • chucko3chucko3 Member Posts: 793
    The original battery in my Accord 03EXV6 went dead last week.
    No power on the dash.
    Just might be the battery.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    I think your problem is an O-ring at one of the power steering hose ends. I'm trying to find the TSB for you.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Here's a copy of it. From what I hear, there is a new improved o-ring. If they change it, using the same o-ring, the problem may come back. Good luck

    image
  • mookie14mookie14 Member Posts: 252
    Ok just left the dealer and the are keeping it i raised you know what with them they heard 2 things. They are putting a new pump on check this out right where the timing chain is at next to the pump as it was running you heard a sound like chuckle. Imagine a chain and its enclosed and it got backed up thats what i heard Also they heard the whine also when drove in and they said whats that. Now i was not techincal in high school but having a ford, gm, autos i would be a tech myself with all the problems i had but honda but i went to them earlier this morning rather yesterday and we cannot hear it it was BS. What really pissed me was it it was the same thing hell worse. Anyway getting off course here if they do a new pump will that fix it also & what's the chuckle coming form timing chain enclosure which they said they put a new shim kit on to align all the pulleys. To me made a situation worse what you guys think. thank alot for all the help now and in the future.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    I've never heard anything about any "shim kit" to align pulleys. :confuse: I've also heard of dealerships changing the power steering pump (not cheap) only to have the problem return. Have no idea what could be making that sound under the timing belt cover. I would have the o-ring and fluid changed, and hope for the best. Frankly, it sounds like you need to find a new dealership to bring the car to. From the very little experience I have with my local dealership, they are total dufuses too. Luckily I have only needed their service once in 18 years.
  • mookie14mookie14 Member Posts: 252
    They put a new pump on just thinking they lied about putting a shim kit on see these techs AT ALL MAKES i know they do not use the info they went to school for. The tsb above whole nine they put on now i have not heard nothing not looking for it neither. Its pain going to get your auto fixed under warranty. Got to do brakes the rear though i got like 36k on it.Is it time to change tranny fluid? ps terring got changed yesterday in march im trading out for a 09. As far as maintenance what will i have to do between now and then thanks guys.
  • michael704michael704 Member Posts: 1
    I had 75k mi service done to my 03 Accord EXL-V4 at the dealer including a transmission fluid change and was told the trans. is leaking fluid and needs a new Torque Converter Seal. I have not noticed any fluid in my garage and have not had any recurrent shifting problems. They advised that the fluid was blown back all over the transmission so finding the leak was difficult and that was the explanation as to why I haven't seen any evidence of a leak.

    The dealer wants over $700 to replace the seal. The seal is only about $15, but it's an all day job.

    I found a Tech. Svc. Bulletin about this problem but no evidence of a recall.

    This repair seems quite significant for a Honda with 76k mi. What are your thoughts?

    Given the problems with the V6 transmissions and the TSB, do you think Honda will supplement the cost of this repair?
  • ezshift5ezshift5 Member Posts: 858

    .....Given the problems with the V6 transmissions and the TSB, do you think Honda will supplement the cost of this repair?


    Looking at the Honda TSB (08-020 04/12/2008) currently atop my desk, we see:

    ".....OUT OF WARRANTY: any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office........"

    You have a real point (given the history here). It's a start............

    best, ez....
  • blufz1blufz1 Member Posts: 2,045
    Try for a 50/50 split of the costs. Good luck.
  • chasb19chasb19 Member Posts: 1
    Nothing really happened. The power windows just won't work. The Driver's window works fine. The other three just click and do nothing, they will not work from the driver door or the actual door. If i put the window lock on, I hear no click. With the lock off, i hear the click but no movement. no motor sound or anything, just a click. they were working fine an hour before, when I got back in the car, this started. No noises or anything....is there a code or something that I might have triggered on accident? I can't see all 3 going out simultaneously.
    When I use the remote to roll the windows down, only the driver window goes down.
  • srizvi1srizvi1 Member Posts: 263
    Well I was trying to stick w/ 5w-30 now that my car is at a higher mileage (as per carzzz's suggestion back on July 5th 2008 - the reply to the reply I'm replying to if anyone's interested). But at walmart all they had were Mobil 1 5w-20s. To make things worse, I had to buy them as 5 separate quarts at $6.xx each because the 5 quart bottle was sold out (and on sale for $22). Hopefully it's not a big deal to jump around between these two oil weights
  • srizvi1srizvi1 Member Posts: 263
    I'm replying to my last post I made in this thread regarding tire activity on my 2004 Honda Accord EX 4 cylinder. It was made on 9/14/08 when my car was almost at 118k miles. I had went with a band-aid fix at the time to replace two tires and am now at a point where I need to replace all four tires. My car is now at just a little over 135k miles. I have 4 Bridgestone Potenza G009s on my car.

    Back when I first posted, pastatie suggested Mastercraft. I just went to their website (mastercrafttires.com) and saw that I would be needing 4 of the Avenger Touring LSR (V/H-Rated) 205/60R16 92 V. I gave the closest mastercraft dealer (Gillette Tire Distributors Inc, Glen Burnie, MD, (410)766-2190) a call and he said that it would cost (w/ tax) $400.75 for four of the "T-rated" ones, but he would order the proper V/H ones I need and give them to me for the same price (normally, they are $4-5 more a tire).

    However, since then it seems there has been some other suggestions on tires from others. Looking through these recent posts in this thread, this is a summary of what my options are:
    Primacy MXV4 (215/50-17s) - $800ish/175.99 per tire (good for tire noise)
    Toyo Versado LX (used in an '05 EX 4 - I assume ok in w/ my car) - $150 a tire
    Bridgestone Potenza G019 Grid tires (used in '03 LX Coupe - assume ok w/ my car) - $100 each (better w/ light snow and cornering than republic ensigns)
    Yokohama Avid H4s (used w/ 2005 4 cyl. EX, assume ok w/ my car)
    Bridgestone Serenity - smooth as OEM MIchelin, better wet traction, but heavier

    Whatever tires I go with, I would get them all mounted at walmart because it would only cost me $7.50 + $3.50 (<-- this one's the actual mounting fee) a tire to have lifetime balance and rotation.

    I think if there's no specials or deals (when I first bought my G009s, there was a Bridgestone rebate going on and I got price matches done which made the final price relatively low), I'll go with the mastercraft tires. But if there's something good out there, maybe I can get something else.

    Thoughts?
  • lilengineerboylilengineerboy Member Posts: 4,116
    I would lean towards the Bridgestone or Yokohama myself. I think the G009 is about the best all around tire they make in the grandma size (205/60R16 vs the much more popular/common 205/55R16) for the Accord EX 4 cylinder.

    Mastercraft sounds like more of a house brand tire. Michelin, Bridgestone, and Goodyear are kind of the tier 1 manufacturers. Hankook, Khumo, BFG, and maybe Cooper are tier 2, and then there are tier 3 and house brands. Futura is Pep Boys house brand for example (although its made by someone else for them).

    You might want to check out tirerack.com and see the ratings they provide on various tires. The can drop ship them to your house or the installer as well.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Mastercraft tires are cheap, and they perform that way. I would only buy Mastercraft tires for a car, if I was going to sell it soon, or if the car was worth less than the tires. ;) They were on my used truck when I bought it. They don't ride smooth, are not quiet, and not very good on wet surfaces either. People who think "A tire is a tire" buy Mastercraft.
  • blufz1blufz1 Member Posts: 2,045
    Check out Discount Tire. I've have good luck with them and they carry several different brands for your car.
  • carzzzcarzzz Member Posts: 282
    haha... you put 5W-30 in it yet?
    Again, Manufacturers are using 5W-20 or 0W-20 because they want slightly better fuel economy.
    Look at pennzoil website for Civic in Japan, they recommend 5W-30... but they recommend 5W-20 for the US.
  • 2006accord2006accord Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2006 Accord SE. when I put my lights on at night the light on my cluster knobs (i.e. radio and climate control ) goes very dim and the little map light doesn't work. I bought this to my local Honda dealer and they are not sure of the problem. they changed the cluster, but this didn't work. Now they want me to pay to check various electrical things. I was just wondering if any of you have this problem and if you have any suggestion to fix this? thanks.
  • stickguystickguy Member Posts: 50,490
    the most obvious thing to cehck is if you have the brightness switch turned down, although I have no idea what that would have to do with the map light!

    2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.

  • dudleyrdudleyr Member Posts: 3,469
    If it is under warranty then they have to pay.
  • 2006accord2006accord Member Posts: 2
    I tuned that switch many times and that is not the problem. Wondering if it could be related to the headlight switch?
  • cambr7cambr7 Member Posts: 1
    I was pulling into a parking space and my car suddenly lurched forward. The car seemed to want to accelerate suddenly. Everyone claims they did not have their foot on gas but I really don't think I did...
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    It is very possible to push the accelerator, while pushing the brake pedal. I've done it before myself in my 03. Luckily I wasn't close enough to anything to hit it. When this happens, you are putting so much more pressure on the brake pedal, than the Accelerator, that you don't really feel it. You just hear the engine rev, then quickly try to reposition your foot. From what I've heard (TV news and news papers) it happens all the time. Plenty of these instances have been investigated, and very very few instances reveal a problem with the car.
  • temj12temj12 Member Posts: 450
    I have done the same thing when I was interstate driving. I would go to brake and hit the accelerator by accident. It took me a minute to get my foot in the right place--on the brake. The pedals are small and close together.
  • grampy1grampy1 Member Posts: 140
    I use my left foot in all my vehicles
  • mookie14mookie14 Member Posts: 252
    Hey guys i have a issue i have a oil leak now i took to the dealer tuesday they did the light, dye and they said no leak. Get home its leaking again call the dealer back said bring it back thursday. Yesterday they fix it get home its leaking again they replaced the oil pan, gasket , hondabond. ITS STILL LEAKING! ANY any idea guys whats up. It have like 39k on it always changed the oil on time 5w20 extended performance mobil 1 its covered under powertrain 60k warranty so that helps help me out guys. ps smelled all they stuff they put on which it was still it was still leaking.
  • veesixman06veesixman06 Member Posts: 2
    Dealer found a fault code of "SRS DTC FN-10" diagnosis. What does this mean?

    SRS was reprogrammed and was supposed to be fixed but when I picked it up, light on instrument panel was still on.

    Car is still at the dealer.

    Light has been coming on when starting first time in the day. Stays on unless car is restarted. Several occasions, comes on when starting in the afternoon on the drive home.

    Thanks!
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Does the light come on every time you start the car? If it does, try this. Get in the car, put the seatbelt on first, then turn the key to start the car. If the light goes out, the seatbelt buckle is likely the problem. There is supposed to be a lifetime warranty on seatbelts (safety), so they should not charge you to fix this. I have an 03 service manual, and there is no code "10". The numbers start at 11. Maybe they gave you a bogus code.
  • veesixman06veesixman06 Member Posts: 2
    elroy5, thanks for your response. The light comes on when car is started first for the day. It's a habit that I turn the ignition on first before buckling up -- to warm up the vehicle while continuing to load stuff.

    I'll have the dealer try your recommendation if they haven't figured out what's causing it.

    So the 03 codes would carry over into later models? Maybe the tech was in a hurry, did a typo and actually meant an '11' instead of the '10'? They did mispell 'reprogramed'. ;)
  • accordionealaccordioneal Member Posts: 1
    How do you change a serpentinve belt on the 2004 Honda Accord 4 cyinder engine?
  • mookie14mookie14 Member Posts: 252
    Hey guys any help on post 4649? by the way they told me that i need a new engine is this normal? Hell a 2yr auto needing a new engine all i ever used was mobil one synthetic and a good filter. 39k miles hum?? help guys please its covered under powertrain this is very confusing they said its the engine block as it heats up the hole get larger and it leaks oil. Ive drove it with no problems and now a new engine? am i going to take a hit when i trade out? seeing it has a new engine in it? help me out guys plese.
  • arbysarbys Member Posts: 12
    Question on a 2007 Accord EX-L: I bought the car new in Sept. 2007, and I can't remember if I've had this issue since then, or just in the last several months. But basically, whenever I use my windshield washer, the fuild shoots not only onto the windshield, but also onto my sunroof and even all the way to my back window! And that's with the car stationary. Anyone else experience this? Would this be something covered by the warranty, if it's indeed a flaw? Thanks.
  • tallman1tallman1 Member Posts: 1,874
    whenever I use my windshield washer, the fuild shoots not only onto the windshield, but also onto my sunroof and even all the way to my back window!

    I haven't had to adjust them on my 06 but every car I've had allows you to do this. Sometimes you have to stick a pin or something similar in the nozzle to move it slightly. Other times you can reach the nozzle to adjust it from the outside.
  • tankbeanstankbeans Member Posts: 585
    My 03 does that. I don't think anything is the matter. The fun part is when I'm driving down the highway and having the people behind me needing to wipe their windshields after I've sprayed mine.
  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Member Posts: 823
    It sounds like there is a manufacturing defect if the engine has a hole. I've seen this on another car, it's nothing you did wrong, it just was a defect in the casting of the block (if this is what you have)

    As far as loosing anything on trade in, heck I'd rather buy a used car with a new/newer engine with less miles on it then an engine with higher miles. This is a mechanical repair, It won't change the value of your car. It wasn't in an accident, so there is nothing that will devalue your Accord.

    Mrbill
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    When driving at speed (when I normally use the washers) the spray blows right on the windshield. Not a problem really; like others have said, they may be adjustable.
  • stickguystickguy Member Posts: 50,490
    for you manual tranny people..

    I have an intermittent squeak in the clutch linkage. Recently started again. Mostly I notice it in 1-2 gear, lower speeds. Kind of like a squeak/squeal noise when releasing the clutch. I don't notice it at higher speeds (or gears).

    I did have something replaced for this issue when the car was 1-2 years old,(some TSB I found on line), even though they claimed it didn't apply to my car. Now, noise is back.

    WOnder if it is just a lubrication issue? Works fine, just annoying, and of course I want to head off any future expensive failures! Especially since it is no longer under warranty.

    2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.

  • dudleyrdudleyr Member Posts: 3,469
    Could be a worn throwout bearing. With a hydraulic clutch I doubt it is a matter of lube, but it could be possible.
  • avalanche2xavalanche2x Member Posts: 17
    I had the same issue. The dealer initially replaced the clutch master cylinder per TSB 02-002 (dated Mar 16,2004). The problem reoccurred a year later and they replaced the clutch master cylinder again but with a redesigned part. I have not had any issues since then. All of this was covered under my Certified Used warranty.

    The mechanical explanation I was given is that some fitting(s) were made of plastic which lead to the premature wear. The redesigned part uses brass.

    Good luck!
  • stickguystickguy Member Posts: 50,490
    I dug out my paperwork, and it was the master cylinder they replaced (probably per the same TSB). That was at 15K. I complained that the noise was coming back at 34K, and of course they didn't hear it, so they lubed the linkage pin to the MS and punted me.

    At least I have the paperwork to proved that it was a problem before the warranty expired. That and the 3 cars I bring to them for service should get me something.

    2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.

  • mookie14mookie14 Member Posts: 252
    Man you would not believe what has happened to my auto. About some wks ago i put a post about the p steering pump. If you go back you will see what typed anyway as they took my engine out they found that the SOB'S who worked on the auto to put the pump on and a clerking sound from the pulleys tapped the bolt near the engine And drilled a hole to far in so what did i have after the fact a OIL LEAK!!! this is not honda's defect its a incompatent DEALERSHIP. I am HOT!!! yes i do not have to pay but dam you trust folks to fix your auto and look what you get. Well the dealership that has it its like 10 miles away from the factory where they make them and i will only deal with them to fix ANYTHING wrong with this auto. And purchase the new honda what do you think of this man this is a 1ST! ps. the post about this is 4617,4624,4625,4626, thanks.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    This is the kind of incompetence I see at my local dealership. At least it was the last time I used them, in 1996. No one touches my car, but me now. So if something gets screwed up, I know who to blame. There is a recall on my car's wiper motor, but as long as the wipers work, they're not touching it. Hope everything turns out OK with your engine. :sick:
  • blufz1blufz1 Member Posts: 2,045
    I agree. As long as my car is running well I don't want them to touch it. Unfortunately,changing and torquing spark plugs is about the limit of my mechanical acumen. Hated to let them replace 2 motor mounts and change the timing belt. Offended by them using a compressed air torque wrench. But,there it is. So far,so good. Fingers crossed.
  • mookie14mookie14 Member Posts: 252
    Well got the auto back yep they replaced the WHOLE engine block. Like i said this is a 1st the dealersahip who replaced it they are close to the plant in marysville where they make mainly all the honda's. So to me i am satisfied with the service i got from them anyware else HE... TO THE KNOW. I like this auto but im giving it up in march 010 no extended warranty on the tranny so its a 2010 or a 09 or pilot or a accord.
  • brian1brian1 Member Posts: 29
    Took my car into NTB and they said I need all 4 rotors and all 4 pads replaced. Car has 43k miles mostly city driving. I asked if they could machine the rotors and they said no. Price quoted was $500. I called a Honda dealer and they said the rotors should not have to be replaced as they are built to last 150-200k miles. He said they would probably machine them and just replace the pads. Price quoted was $445. What am I better off doing? thanks for any advice
  • dudleyrdudleyr Member Posts: 3,469
    Honda is noted for brakes rotors that warp. Don't know why they can't fix it. My 2007 wobbled when braking and they replaced the front rotors under warranty and said they were too warped to machine. And if you follow the mpg thread you know I brake very gently and my brake pad last a long long time, so I am not overheating the brakes.

    The problem is if you machine a warped rotor you are removing more metal from the high parts and making a rotor of unequal thickness. This will make it warp again even faster. I would absolutely replace the rotors for only $55 more. Now if they were running an $89 per axle special as happens sometimes I might consider machining depending on how long I was going to keep the car and how hilly the area I live was.
  • texasgulfcoasttexasgulfcoast Member Posts: 2
    My 2007 Accord V6 has an Oil Filter about 1/2 the size of a Coke can. Does anyone make an Oil Filter adapter that would let me put a Full size filter on it? I cannot believe how small the filter is that came from the factory. It looks so small that I would change it once a week. Thanks in advance for the help.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    That filter hasn't given Honda any problems due to its size. I wouldn't change what isn't broken. I get an oil/filter change every 7,000-8,000 miles (whenever my maintenance minder is below 15%).
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