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Honda Accord (2003-2007) Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • bav_fan07bav_fan07 Member Posts: 68
    Yes you are right. To be honest the 2003-2006 was a type...you probably don't believe me :P
  • bav_fan07bav_fan07 Member Posts: 68
    Did you manage to get this fixed?

    Was the issue related to the battery?
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    We have no idea what your mileage is, though.

    Take account of your miles driven, then divide by your gallons pumped. That'll help determine what mileage you're getting. You can't go by "a full tank" since you aren't running it dry every time.
  • bav_fan07bav_fan07 Member Posts: 68
    True. but after filling up and driving, I'm getting about 310 miles/500 kms (barely) before I need to fill'er up again. (indicator is near are almost at E)

    Does that seem normal for a 2003 Accord?

    That's what I'm really asking.

    thanks.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    The light comes on with close to 4 gallons of gas left. I've driven the car to actually one position below E and it still only took 15.4 gallons (the tank holds 17.1). If you are driving to the light and getting 310 miles, that's a smidge under 24 MPG. Not particularly good if you have a lot of steady-speed highway (assuming that speed is reasonable - under 80 MPH), but for considerable in-town driving, or more aggressive starts/stops, it isn't out-of-the ordinary. EPA listings put the car at 21/31 under the new system. At 80 MPH with my moonroof open, I garnered 33 mpg last weekend (I have a 2006 EX 4-cylinder, same basic model as yours).
  • tallman1tallman1 Member Posts: 1,874
    Well its just an opinion, relatively speaking.

    You picked out one year (2003) but the generation, as a whole, is pretty solid. And from 2003, transmissions were the biggest issue so that skews things a bit.
  • tallman1tallman1 Member Posts: 1,874
    I am barely getting 500km (approx 310.7 miles) on a full tank.

    I agree with thegrad... figure out your true mileage and compare that to what you were getting a few years ago.

    One thing that I noticed recently, with the onset of colder weather, I hadn't checked my tire pressure lately. I barely got 30 mpg combined. Once I added some air, I was back up to around 32 combined.

    06 EX-L I4 Manual.
  • chucko3chucko3 Member Posts: 793
    So it's about 14.5 gallons for 310 miles.
    Avg is under 22 mpg.
    A bit low for EX-4L even in cold weather.
    Have you replaced the PCV yet?
    I would check the tire pressure. Do you have defrost mode on all
    the time?
    My 03EXV6 with city driving & A/C on still gives 22 mpg.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    I'm not sure how you figure that, since we don't even know how much gas they've used when they fill up again...

    For the record, there is a thread specifically for Accord MPG, if the original poster would like to check it out as well. I've linked it right here.
  • bav_fan07bav_fan07 Member Posts: 68
    Then I stand corrected. My lesson here is never to buy a car in the first year of the new generation!!!
  • bav_fan07bav_fan07 Member Posts: 68
    Will check the tire pressure again. We just put on new tires by the way. We stepped down to "H" rated tires. I didn't think it was necessary to stick with V rated tires, but I guess that's debateably topic...

    defrost mode is not on all the time. yes it gets cold where we live, but it also can get very warm. and very hot in the summer.

    The one thing I wanted to ask, and it maybe a stupid question, but the accord has A/C off, and you can press that after you put on the air system. so the question is the A/C on by default?
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    so the question is the A/C on by default?

    Yes. Overall, it prevents window-fogging and humidity buildup, and simply regulates temperature by how much heat it puts in the system. In full automatic mode, the A/C is on, and is only off when specifically indicated.
  • chucko3chucko3 Member Posts: 793
    A conservative guesstimate based on his 310 miles & 'E' indicator info.
    Tank holds about 17gals. Light comes on when there are about 2 1/2 gals left.
  • Honda30Honda30 Member Posts: 16
    The dealers love you folks who like to run your tanks low. Its hard on the in tank electric fuel pump, especially in hot weather. To save an unnecessary expensive replacement of the pump, do not run below 1/4 tank.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    you folks who like to run your tanks low. Its hard on the in tank electric fuel pump, especially in hot weather.

    True.
  • lbirunnerlbirunner Member Posts: 8
    Where did you hear this? Do you have any articles or anything that talks about it? It would be greatly appreciated.
    I commute in a rather remote area and it would be real inconvenient to fill up that often. I'm on my third honda and have never had a problem with the fuel pump.
  • chucko3chucko3 Member Posts: 793
    Want the pump to submerge in the gas as much as possible.
    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fuel_pump#Mechanical_pump
  • tankbeanstankbeans Member Posts: 585
    Hello -

    It's been a while since I've been out here and I was wondering if the PCV is something that would create symptoms when in need of replacement or is it advisable to just replace it at a given mileage? I'm only asking since I have been getting lowish mileage, but my car hasn't been exhibiting any tell-tale signs of anything. Although I do need another alignment. I'm glad I bought the 3 year alignment package because it seems it pops itself out of alignment every 6 months which is kind of weird. If so how much should it run to replace it? My car is an 03 LX with a smidge under 70k. So far I've hovered around 24-25 mpg with a good deal of in town driving. I've been training myself to rely more on CC than ankle control since I admit that I have a heavy foot. :)

    Since I've been using CC I've pushed it up to 26ish. Of course my results may be skewed since I fill up at slightly under "half" tank most of the time. I rarely let it get much past that point. I guess I'm overly picky or my mom says I'm a tad anal about my car.

    I don't mean to butt in to the conversation.
  • scruby4scruby4 Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2003 honda accord ex 2.4 engine i just had the idle control motor change and now its has a higher than normal idle, its low enough that it still shifts but its a honda (my 4th) it is supposed to be very smooth and quiet. how can i fix this problem

    note :the new motor has tamper proof screws
  • pprboypprboy Member Posts: 4
    Your vehicle is equipped with front passenger weight sensors for the 2nd or 3rd generation front passenger airbags. If the rear passenger mat is obstructing the rail underneath the front passenger seat, the sensor may not work properly. :)
  • chucko3chucko3 Member Posts: 793
    If you have around 24-25 mpg in city in last couple months (colder weather), it is not that
    bad.
    I replaced PCV valve at given mileages for my Accord89, Acura94, Camry88.
    It was an easy job. Haven't done it for my 03EXV6 yet though.

    Looking at the picture for your 03LX from
    http://www.bernardiparts.com/searchoptions.aspx
    select ENGINE>breather tube to see the parts' cost. It should be easy to replace it.

    For PCV reading:
    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PCV_valve
  • nepalnepal Member Posts: 5
    My brother has a 2003 Accord. When should he change the TIMING BELT on that car?
    Thanks
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    If your brother has a V6 engine, it's replacement is scheduled for 105k miles. If it's a 4 cylinder, it has a chain, which should last the normal life of the engine (no change necessary).
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    elroy5 is exactly right in post 4948. 105k for V6 engines, never for 4-cylinder models.
  • dudleyrdudleyr Member Posts: 3,469
    Just replaced the battery in my key FOB - what a pain. I read that the screw was hard to get out so I took it to a jeweler so I would not strip the head. He could not get it loose and said he ruined a couple of tools trying. I wound up having to drill out the screw head, and then prying out the stub with pliers. Fortunately I did not strip the threads in the housing and found the exact size screw in the hardware store. So after two days I have my remote access back.

    Kind of surprised the battery only lasted 2.5 years. Never had one go bad before. I suppose that holding down the button for several seconds to roll the windows down uses a lot of juice compared to a quick lock or unlock.

    Also had a headlight go out - replaced it with the John Deere tractor headlight that other sites rave about (Toshiba HIR). It is brighter than stock. That was quite a chore as well. Lots of fiddling around to get access to the bulb. Makes me miss the old sealed beams.
  • scruby4scruby4 Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2003 honda accord ex 2.4 engine i just had the idle control motor change and now its has a higher than normal idle, its low enough that it still shifts but its a honda (my 4th) it is supposed to be very smooth and quiet. how can i fix this problem note :the new motor has tamper proof screws
  • wise1wise1 Member Posts: 91
    My 07 Se has several rattles that I've complained about with the usual we don't hear any rattles response. The purge control valve has been changed but it is still loud at red lights and stop signs. Any bulletins on drivers door handle rattles?? Also there is a rattle in the drivers seat belt harness at the post where it comes out and a windshield or perhaps a passenger window/door rattle. Any service bulletins???Thanks1
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    There is an "Idle learn" procedure that probably should have been done after the change. I would check on that. I might be able to find it for you, in the service manual, if you want.
  • lilengineerboylilengineerboy Member Posts: 4,116
    Also there is a rattle in the drivers seat belt harness at the post where it comes out and a windshield or perhaps a passenger window/door rattle.

    My windows rattle in the weather stripping. Its a Honda. Hondas seem to have a few rattles. My '07 Accord windows rattle, my '93 Accord rattled, my '93 Civic rattled, my '89 Civic rattled. I have lubricated the weather stripping for the door and the window and that seemed to help a little bit. I think at this point I have just gotten used to it.

    I guess I am saying there are actions to take to mitigate the rattle, but don't hold your breath.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    D'oh!

    I've been silently stewing that my mileage on my '06 2.4L auto has dropped recently. I can't get my normal 30mpg mixed anymore (26-27ish), and my highway mileage has dropped to old EPA estimates (34) where I used to get 37+ easily at 70-75mph. I chalked it up to my new tires, but forgot I replaced the battery. I should the do the ILP, right? :)

    Elroy, if you don't mind, can you share that for me?
  • stickguystickguy Member Posts: 50,435
    is that why my '05 seems to idle a little threadier since I got a new battery a couple of weeks back?

    Might have to give that a try too, whatever it is!

    2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.

  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    I'll try to find it in the manual, sometime tonight.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    I assume disconnecting the battery, will reset the ECM/PCM. It's upside down, but I was in a hurry.

    image
  • stickguystickguy Member Posts: 50,435
    Unfortuneately, I have no idea what "resetting the ECM with the HDS means, or how to do it! Well, I do know what the ECM is. Just not the HDS.

    although if all you need to do is disconnect the battery to reset the ECM, I got that covered.

    2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.

  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    HDS is Honda's diagnostic system, but I think disconnecting the battery will also reset the ECM. The service manual says to do EVERYTHING with the HDS, because it's written for factory techs.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Thanks for posting;

    That's a very different ILP than I've read for the Fit, the Pilot, etc. I wonder how precise you have to be with that 3,000 RPM deal.
  • stickguystickguy Member Posts: 50,435
    that makes more sense. Last night for some reason I only saw steps 1-2!

    Anyway, what is the problem caused that the ILP is "fixing"? idling at the wrong speed, or not idling smoothly?

    I doubt this ever gets done when the battery i sreplaced, even by a Honda dealer, and certainly not elsewhere.

    I am guessing that just disconnecting the battery doesn't wipe of the ECM, requiring the procedure?

    2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.

  • tallman1tallman1 Member Posts: 1,874
    Two things:

    1. I'm surprised that you had to replace your battery so soon, grad.
    2. I've never heard of having to do anything when you simply replace a battery. Except reset your radio code, of course.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    I'm hoping it'll improve my fuel mileage, which dropped around the time I replaced the battery, by a solid 3 MPG or so.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Well, the car was purchased in November of 05. The battery didnt just "up-and-die" one morning. I have a habit of walking my GF to the door, illuminating our way with my car headlights - normal time left on is usually 5 minutes or so. The last time I did that with my old battery, the lights grew dimmer, and it wouldnt crank.

    Once it was jumped off, I drove it home. It cranked fine the next day. I didn't trust it beyond that though, and went ahead and bought a new battery, with more juice to it.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    2. I've never heard of having to do anything when you simply replace a battery. Except reset your radio code, of course.

    It might depend on how long the battery is disconnected, not sure. Some people have had to re-learn the auto up/down windows after the battery was changed. I replaced my battery pretty quickly, so I don't think the ECM was reset.

    What kind of battery did you get grad? I was thinking about Optima for my next battery, but for what those suckers cost, it would have to last 15 years. My oem battery lasted almost 4 years, and the replacement (Sams club $45 battery) is about 2 1/2 years old. I can tell the starter is not turning as fast anymore, so I would not give it another year. The original battery never failed to start the engine, but it was so weak under load, it was causing communication errors from the MICU.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    I bought it at Wal-Mart; but don't remember how much it was or what brand it was. I feel like it was close to $90 before I got the battery recycle "trade-in" money.
  • stickguystickguy Member Posts: 50,435
    got mine last month at walmart. It is an Everstart (their house brand). Also top rated by CR. Only $65, installled.

    I wanted to get the Maxx version (higher output) but they didnt have that model in the Accord size. Got a Maxx in our Odyssey, and I think it would crank over a peterbuilt.

    I replaced mine when the dealer tested and it failed the load test, before it had a chance to strand me when it got cold.

    only had to reload the radio code. Everything else worked like it was supposed to.

    2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.

  • bav_fan07bav_fan07 Member Posts: 68
    I've had the same stock OEM battery on my '03 Accord for almost 7 years.....
  • dudleyrdudleyr Member Posts: 3,469
    Couple of notes on batteries.
    Stock batteries tend to have low CCA's My Integra had under 400. Not sure about the Accord. They sell you on more CCA's in the store, but it is usually overkill. Often times the batteries with really high CCA's don't last as long. They have more lead plates that are thinner to fit in the same space, but this makes them less durable.

    My OEM battery in the Integra lasted 7 years and I only replaced it because it was old - it still worked fine (started the car in -35 actulc temp one night when it was 4 years old). It actually needed distilled water added every few years. The replacement batteries only lasted about 4 years each even though they were all super fancy with long warrenties and tons of CCA's. The warrenty means nothing because it is prorated and just guaranties that you will buy the same model again to take advantage of the warranty.

    As far as mpg goes. I would strongly suspect the tire change is a major factor. Tires can vary by 3 to 4 mpg because of their rolling resistance. And tires are at their most efficient when they are old and bald for two reasons. They are quite a bit lighter with all that tread gone and that reduces rotational mass. They smooth tread also has less drag than a new tire.

    A brand new tire that still has the nubs on it and had lots off tread and may not be super efficient to begin with will use more fuel. Also a higher speed rating usually means worse mpg because the reinforcing needed for the rating adds weight. CR tested tires recently and V rated tires were all significantly worse than the H rated tires for rolling resistance.

    What tires did you get grad?
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Stock batteries tend to have low CCA's My Integra had under 400. Not sure about the Accord. They sell you on more CCA's in the store, but it is usually overkill. Often times the batteries with really high CCA's don't last as long. They have more lead plates that are thinner to fit in the same space, but this makes them less durable.

    Mine was 400 or 410 I think, and what I bought was somewhere in the 420-430 range. I remember it being an increase of 20 or so.

    What tires did you get grad?

    Well, I put Bridgestone Potenza G009 on my '96 Accord, like them so much that I put the "new model" of the same tire on my '06 - Potenza G019. They're listed as a "high-performance all-season." They were $94.99 a tire. Could've gone cheaper, but they're great in the handling/ride compromise, if they are a little noisy on pebbly-concrete surfaces. The old Michelin Energy tires lasted 51k. I still had tread-life, but had lots of cracks in the sidewalls, and was really noticing traction issues in heavy rain, at speeds that my '96 wouldn't have had a problem on the same stretch of road.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    My stock Michelins had plenty of tread left at 47k miles too. They were prone to damage (bulges from potholes, and punctures from pointed rocks :sick: ) and also had cracks all over the sidewalls. I replaced them with Bridgestone LS (now called Serenity) tires. The Bridgestones are heavier, and slightly larger in diameter, so I lost about 2mpg. The Bridgestones have 23k miles on them now, and are holding up very well. The wet traction is much improved over the MXV4s, and they seem to be a much more durable tire. They were about the same price as the Michelins, but imo are worth more.
  • dudleyrdudleyr Member Posts: 3,469
    "Potenza G019"

    There is the reason.

    I just checked on Consumer Reports and that tire has a solid black mark for rolling resistance (it handles well and has excellent braking traction). The Michelin primacy MXV4 is tied with the Goodyear fuelmax for the lowest rolling resistance with a sold red circle. That is a slightly different Michelin than what you had but probably close for rolling resistance. The Bridgestone is also V rated while the Michelin is H rated (making it lighter).

    Just for grins I checked on tire rack and the Bridgestone weighs 27 lbs per tire to 24 for the Michelin.

    I woulk link to the article but you need a subscription to read it. Local library should have a copy though.

    The good news is the mpg will gradually get a little better as the tire wears.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    I'll gladly give up 2 or 3 mpg for a safer, imo tire. Of course I also gave a couple mpg for V6 power and smoothness, so I'm easy. :surprise:
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    I hate to sound like I'm complaining (I knew I'd lose a fraction of my mileage when changing tires, its just been more than I anticipated), because I do love the tires. My mileage is also quite good, its just not the amazing mileage it used to be (I could pull upper 30s at 70+ mph with no effort). It now resides right around the sticker estimates of 24/34 (old EPA estimates, not new). I should be happy with meeting those I suppose.

    On another note, I'm approaching 60k miles (55k now, with 40% oil life); I wonder what will need to be taken care of at this next service? Its time for another air filter (last done at 28K), and also to get my transmission fluid changed (never done it). Anything else I'm forgetting? I know the MM will tell me things, but just looking to know what to expect here.
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