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Honda Accord (2003-2007) Maintenance and Repair

199100102104105117

Comments

  • I have the same problem :mad: . Also my passenger seat vibrates when the car is not moving. I have the warranty and I will go to the dealer and see what they going to do about it.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    There was a TSB on vibration for the 4cylinder models. I wonder if it was applied to these cars. The Technical Service Bulliten was about adjusting engine mounts, but I don't know if it actually worked to solve the problem.
  • Do these still have the "active" engine mounts like the 90-93 automatic ones did?
  • wise1wise1 Posts: 91
    If you can get any info on the tech serv bulletin I would appreciate it. They say vibration is a normal part of 4 cyc.Honda engines. I KNOW BETTER!!!! I've been driving Hondas for 26 years and haven't had a problem like this!!!! :sick: :sick: :sick:
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    I don't know how to attach this file, so. Click on the pdf attachment in post 6 (princess).
    http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=22342
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    Yes, and I think the mounts are getting more and more "active". Most Honda 4cylinder engines have this problem from what I know. My 92 Accord had a slight vibration at stop lights, some days more than others. It gets annoying to the point where you slip the transmission in neutral, if you are going to be sitting for a while. Back then, most information I got on the problem was on the ELD (Electric Load Detector), and the engine mounts. I never confirmed that either remedy actually worked. My V6 Accord doesn't do this at all, and I'm so glad.
  • ezshift5ezshift5 West coastPosts: 858
    My V6 Accord doesn't do this at all.............

    Were the truth be known, my 6M vibrates on startup. By the time I stick it in reverse, back out of the garage, get out and close the garage door et al........when I drive to my first stop sign (150 yards), it's gone. I don't recall this when new; hopefully it's not a precursor to bad news.

    all the best, ez............
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    A manual should vibrate much less at a stop light, since there is no load on the engine (clutch). My 92 was practically vibration free, if you slid the shift lever into neutral, rather than in drive. My v6 has no vibration at any point (start-up to shut down). :)
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    Not good. About two years ago I replaced my stock michelins with the Bridgestone Turanza grand touring tires. I've been noticing an increase in noise from these tires, at only 26k miles. They barely look worn at all, and probably still have 3/4 of the original tread left on them. It's starting to look like these tires will be replaced prematurely, just as the Michelins were. The noise is only loud on certain surfaces, so I will probably give them at least another year, before replacing them. The tires have performed great, and the treadwear looks good, but I don't like all this noise. Too bad.
  • You could remedy that with loud music. ;)

    Road noise doesn't bug me.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Just an update...

    Went by the dealer today to have my horn looked at (sounds personal, doesn't it? :shades: ). They told me the "high" horn is finished; not making a sound. What I'm hearing now is the low horn, and even that is growling - about to play out. The horns are $65 apiece, installation is $100 (one hour). The total estimate, after clips and tax was $264.45.

    Needless to say, I'm going to see what my local mechanic would charge for the install, and see if I can find horns at a pull-a-part place. Not going to have anything done to the other horn quits on me. Right now, it makes loud noise, its just a bit embarassing to honk it.
  • dudleyrdudleyr Posts: 3,469
    It is hard to tell my I4 is running when it is at idle, but I have a stick so it is always in neutral at a stop sign.
  • dudleyrdudleyr Posts: 3,469
    Just buy an air horn and roll down the window.

    I bet you could DIY the horn install - should be pretty easy (20 minutes). The 09 Accord horn ($15 below) is being put in the Fit by a lot of people who want more horn. It looks like it is just one piece and it should fit easily in your Accord.

    http://www.hondapartsnow.com/genuine/honda~horn~assy~38100-STK-A02.html
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Give that horn a good whack with a stick!
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    :) If only the illustrious elroy were here with his shop manual on a horn install...
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    The service manual simply says to remove the bulkhead cover (that plastic piece between the grill and the radiator, then remove the horns. You can test them just by connecting them to the battery. It says the connector is just one prong, so it must ground itself (no ground wire). Most of clips that hold the bulkhead cover are easy to remove. You just pull the center part up, then pull the entire clip out. Be gentle with them, or you could break a couple. The screw clips in the corner, by the headlight, can be tricky to remove. I destroyed those two, and replace them with new ones. The service manual doesn't even say what holds the horns in place (screw, bolt?), so you'll have to take a look on that. Shouldn't be hard at all.
    Any questions?

    Illustrious? I almost fell on the floor laughing at that one. :D
  • tallman1tallman1 Posts: 1,874
    The nice thing about it, grad, is that if Shifty's whack doesn't work and Elroy's advice about removal is a problem, the worst that you are out is a few clips and a horn that is already broken anyway. :shades:
  • I have an 03 Accord EXL that also had a horn problem. They sounded anemic. Found replacement on Amazon.com made by PIAA @ $40. Went to Walmart and bought some electrical connectors and wire in the auto section. Removed the plastic cover over the radiator (simply pry out the small tabs) and I also removed the small grille to better access the horns. They bolt on. There is a single wire to the horn and a honda attachment plug. Removed both horns, removed the connectors, stripped a bit of wire, attached new connectors and made 2 pig tail ground wires. Extremely easy to do, 20 min later, brand new horns. Sound great!!!! :shades:
  • aamixyaamixy Posts: 69
    The odo says 30,xxx miles and the service indicator is on with 15% oil life. I wonder how much the 30k service would cost. I understand dealers will add much work to jack up the price. Can I know (1) with the maintenace work only required by the manual, how much should it cost on average? (2) how much do dealer usually ask for? Thanks so much!
  • I really do not know what is up with my 03' Accord V4. Whenever stopped at a traffic light, with my foot on the brake, the car keeps kicking as if it is struggling to stay in place. I put the car in park and as soon as the kicking stops the car goes below 500 RPM and the engine shuts off. I then have to turn the keys in the ignition again to start the car up. Once turned on, the kicking begins and it seems the engine is only not struggling when my foot is on the accelerator or it is in park in which case it turns off. WHAT IS GOING ON?!
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    The code on the service indicator (B12, A1, B2, etc) will tell you exactly what you need to have done. Brake fluid should also be changed every three years, independent of the service light.

    At 28k my car hit me with a need for oil/filter change, tire rotation, air filter change, cabin filter change. I just had it all done again (minus the cabin filter) at Big Ten Tires (chain), for $51, with my 15% indicator once again showing a B 1,2 at 56,000 miles.

    I have a 2006 Accord EX 4-cylinder, automatic.
  • aamixyaamixy Posts: 69
    Hi thegraduate, thanks for the info. That's unbelieveably low cost. :) I think there is no way I can get that price at any Honda dealer. Even for A1, I was charged around 70 bucks.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    That's why I don't use the dealer, and don't plan to except for transmission service (I want them responsible should something happen - I still have a powertrain warranty). My breakdown:

    Oil Change - $19.99
    Oil Filter - $7.00
    Air Filter - $19.99
    Tire Rotation - Free, I bought my tires there. They also balance and align for free.

    The remainder was tax and disposal fee. I'm late on having my brake fluid done, but the dealer wanted $169 do it. For $350 I can have a new master cylinder done, with fresh brake fluid. I'll wait it out for that much $.
  • At the 30k I also did the brake fluid change, the inside air filter, and wiper blades. I think the brake fluid was $7 for the blessed Honda brake fluid, the inside air filter was $23, and the wiper refills were <$10 for both I think, but I can't find the receipt for that.
  • Sounds like a bad Idle Air Control valve and or low coolant to me.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    I'm late on having my brake fluid done, but the dealer wanted $169 do it. For $350 I can have a new master cylinder done, with fresh brake fluid. I'll wait it out for that much $.

    The moisture the brake fluid absorbs can also rust the calliper piston, and cause it to start leaking, so it's not just the master cylinder that could go out. I think you are safe for 4 years, but I would not go longer than that.
  • Speaking of brake fluid flushed would you guess Tires Plus would use the recommended fluid? I need to do mine since I'm not sure if it's been done yet. I certainly haven't yet and I've had the car almost 3 years.
  • Hello all -

    Would you guess it's time for me to do my air filter again? I last did it around 32k and now I'm at just under 72k. I just got an oil change and they pulled the filter. It looks pretty gnarly, but looks can be deceiving. They also did a fuel line cleaning and blew out some carbon that had built up over the 7 years since the car was born. Any ideas. I had them look at the spark plugs just in case and they said that the plugs are still in good shape.

    Thanks,
    tankbeans

    2003 Accord LX Coupe 71,850
  • Speaking of brake fluid flushed would you guess Tires Plus would use the recommended fluid? I need to do mine since I'm not sure if it's been done yet. I certainly haven't yet and I've had the car almost 3 years.

    I think whatever fluid they use will be fine. There is a DOT grade (3, 4, 5) and as long as they use the right one, it should be fine. I mockingly refer to Honda factory fluids as being blessed, but they all have to meet the same requirements to be qualified by DOT. Just like SAE requirements for motor oil.
  • tallman1tallman1 Posts: 1,874
    Would you guess it's time for me to do my air filter again?

    Depending on how you drive, changing the air filter every 30k is certainly reasonable... and recommended, IIRC.
  • temj12temj12 Posts: 450
    Yes, I would really appreciate the picture. Thanks for the reply.
  • Is there a remote oil filter relocation kit available for the 4 cylinder Accords? I know in the olden days, most domestic engines had an adapter that would attach where the oil filter goes and had two hoses going to a remote filter mount. It added about a quart of oil capacity, and it allowed the filter to me mounted in a convenient location.

    I have found changing the oil in the 03-07 Accord to be a totally miserable, messy, greasy experience. I think relocating the filter to somewhere easy to reach would help alot. Right now, it is the 2nd worst of any car I've changed the oil, the absolute worst being the early 90s Prelude (the best, incidentally, is our '05 Legacy - the filter is at the bottom of the engine, oriented vertically, so you don't need an anti-drain spring in the filter, and you don't get oil all down your arm or suspension or exhaust manifold when you take it off. They also used the same filter for just about every Subaru on the road, so its easy to find).

    An oil change is just a miserable job on this car.
  • stickguystickguy Posts: 33,815
    I never found it messy to change.

    Then again, Ihave the dealer do it. So maybe that's the reason!

    2019 Acura TLX A-spec 4 cyl. (mine), and 2013 Acura RDX AWD (wife's)

  • dudleyrdudleyr Posts: 3,469
    Changed the brake fluid once in my '90 Integra when it was 2 years old or so. Have not changed it in the last 18 years. Master cylinder and slaves are still working fine.

    Not recommending anybody go against what the dealer says, but I wonder if the intervals are akin to the old oil change intervals of 3k or less - overkill.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    How much moisture the brake fluid absorbs, I think, is relative to the humidity in your area. I live in Louisiana (high humidity winter and summer, and lots of rain), and my master cylinder, in my old Accord, gave up within 6 years. If you live in California or Arizona, for example, it may take much longer for the brake fluid to absorb moisture. Even if your brake fluid has little moisture in it, it's probably pretty dirty, and the contamination is probably affecting how well your brakes work. I changed mine, in the 03 at 3 years, and it was already pretty dirty. The master cylinder is not the only component the contaminated brake fluid can harm. There is the Master Cylinder, the Callipers, and the VERY EXPENSIVE ABS Modulator. I'd rather be safe, than sorry. Brake fluid is cheap, and a hand -held vacuum pump is a one-time purchase. Considering most people don't keep the same car for more than 6 years, they never have to worry about what contaminated brake fluid is doing to the braking system. I plan to have my car for 15 years or more.
  • dudleyrdudleyr Posts: 3,469
    It is very dry in SD.
  • I've never had it done on my accord, currently 35K miles, or my dozen or so other cars (over 100k miles). I personally think it's a waste of money unless you are actually experiencing some problems.
  • Hello experts... I have an awkward noise coming from the forward part of my Accord that I haven't been able to pinpoint. The noise sounds like a rubber ball being jiggled in a paper cup. The noise only occurs when driving at 30+ mph and is not rotational (it doesn't increase/decrease with changes in speed) and does not change when the engine RPM's increase/decrease. The noise is also not dependent on the climate control being on/off, the duct positioning (defrost, floor, vent, etc.) and/or blower speed (high, med, low).

    My assumption is that the noise coming from outside of the car. It sounds like the loose object (aka rubber ball) is being moved by the wind which causes it to make contact with an object (aka paper cup). Given that I can hear it clearly I'm also assuming that it is near the firewall.

    I have checked for any loose parts and foreign objects near the wiper area and firewall with no success. I would really appreciate any information that you may have.

    Thank you.
  • chucko3chucko3 Posts: 793
    Did you check underneath the car?
  • Yes. I also checked inside the front wheel wells for any loose body clips.
  • srizvi1srizvi1 Posts: 239
    Last time I posted about oil (the message I'm replying to) was back in August of last year. I'm not sure what mileage my old (now my sister's) 2004 Honda Accord was at. I just checked before my brother took it out to take care of the oil change and tire rotation and balance (to be discussed in another post) and it was at 152,107.

    Since he was heading to walmart for the rotation and balance, I told him to just grab the mobil 1 oil there. I'm still a little confused over 5w-30 or 5w-20 but carzzz had suggested going with 5w-30 if your powertrain has expired back in this post so I thought I would stick with that. If wal-mart doesn't have 5w-30, I told him to grab 5w-20. Hopefully he can get a 5qt jug as they are usually $22. If not, he'll have to buy individual quarts at I think $6ish each.

    I wasn't sure about walmart's filter so I told my brother to stop at the local Ourisman Honda dealer in Laurel and pick up the oil filters there. I gave him a printout from handa-accessories.com showing the filter price at $5.28 each. He just texted me telling me he got them at $5.63 each.

    I saw a deal over here on slickdeasl for 5 quarts Mobil 1 synthetic oil + Mobil 1 oil filter for $27.99 from autozone. I wasn't sure about Mobil 1's filter either though.
  • I, personally, would stick with the recommended 5W-20. I just got mine changed at Tires Plus with a 5W-20 synthetic blend and it seems to be running great. Then again I'm only at 72k miles.
  • If the car says to use 5w20, I would use 5w20 until it started burning it excessively or something. Cars are designed to run at a certain optimal oil pressure, and increasing the viscosity may increase the oil pressure (think of it like blood thickeners and blood pressure). In some cars, useing 10w40 instead of 5w30 can result in blowing oil filters off the engine.
  • srizvi1srizvi1 Posts: 239
    I posted back on May 18, 2009 about tires I Was considering on my 2004 Accord. I put up a few suggestions and got some feedback from elroy5, lilengineerboy, and blufz1 (see the message I'm replying and look below to in order to see the other replies). At the time, my car was at 135k miles. Well sometime in the next few months I found out my dad just had all four tires replaced through somewhere. All 4 tires now are Goodyear P205/55R16 89H Eagle RSA. I think the original tire size is supposed to be P205/60z1691v.

    Anyone familiar with these tires?

    I'm not sure what milage the G009s were replaced with these but I know my sister (now the driver of that car since I got my IS 350 last year) told me details about the tires when the car was at 147,301 miles. So somewhere between 135k and that is when the swap occurred. Unfortunately, my dad's not really good at keeping paperwork. I'm not even sure if these tires are new or not.

    We did take the car to walmart on Saturday and had the tire rotation and balance and oil change done there. The thread life is 6/32 all around. The car was a 152124 miles at the time of service.

    I'm not sure how much life is left in the tires but once the tires get low again, I'm handling them this time.
  • srizvi1srizvi1 Posts: 239
    Thanks for the comments lilengineerboy and tankbeans. I Guess on the next oil change I'll just go back to 5w-20 then and play it safe (hmm.. I'm assuming that's the right weight. I haven't looked in a while).

    One thing that's got me a little worried is that walmart forgot to use the genuine honda oil filter that my brother picked up from the dealer right before (the part# was 15400-PLM-A02, and they matched handa-accessories.com's price down to $5.63). Instead they used theirs. a PRO 7317 oil filter as per the walmart receipt. I know the honda oil filter can go 20k miles (the manual says to swap out the oil every 10k miles, but oil and filter every 20k miles). I just swap out every 10k miles though because I don't do the oil changes myself so it would be hard to keep track of myself w/ someone else doing it. I hope this PRO 7317 filter can at least go 10k miles - the mileage at the walmart oil change from last Saturday was 152,124 so I have to take care of the next oil change at 162k miles.
  • I learned something about why the various weights are chosen by lilengineerboy, I'm learning something new all the time. And yes 5w-20 is the correct weight. I remember being kind of taken aback when I learned that on this car, and as such remembered it. I have a tendency to remember seemingly small things that are out of the ordinary (for me). I remember when I was younger, I'm still not old (21), and the standards were 5w-30 and 10w-30. I'm still not sure what the difference there is.
  • Hello all -

    I've recently noticed that my driver's side key hole, the only one available on my car, is recessed more than normal. It doesn't look like anybody tried to break in, but there is a noticeable gap between the keyhole slot and the panel that the handle sits in. Is it fairly easy to get in there and fix it?

    I'm not overly worried about it because I barely use the valet key and always unlock from the fob, but I want to make sure somebody can get in without the fob. Thanks in advance for the help.
  • All 4 tires now are Goodyear P205/55R16 89H Eagle RSA. I think the original tire size is supposed to be P205/60z1691v.

    The 205/55 tires are much smaller. That is making the speedometer read fast, the odometer run fast (accumulating more miles than you are really driving), and lowering the final drive (so the engine runs a higher RPM at a given speed). Miata.net had a tire size calculator that will show the difference in height and circumference between various sizes so you can see how far off your speedometer and odometer are, at the least.

    Next time, I would get the correct size.

    That said, 205/60R16 is not that fun a size and there are very few performance oriented options. I think the 17" wheels and tires offer more size opportunities.
  • chucko3chucko3 Posts: 793
    Looks like the tires were downgraded in both: speed rating & load index.
    That's probably why the tires wear out faster.
    At 6/32, you still can get another 10k miles out of them.
    If the car is driven a lot on snow, I would replace them at 5/32.
  • he8833he8833 Posts: 52
    As many of you have commented...The dealers prices for brakes are high very high
    My dealer wants to charge after telling me the rear brakes are shot
    273 for new pads and re-surface
    458 for new pads and new rotors

    Of course he says that I should only use Honda genuine pads etc

    Local shop is 300 for new pads and rotors, but says I should always replace the rotors as 9/10 they will pulsate if dont

    Where as to my surprise the DEALER says depending on the condition I may be able to simply have the re-surfaced.

    So question is what are the drawback of NOT using Honda brake pads. Local shop says they are most likely made by Raybestos or some other major manufacture and simply re-branded as Honda

    Any advice appreciated
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