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So is there an Auto setting on the light stem (the post that comes off the steering wheel)?
Lambanlaa
Perhaps a host will move these posts to an existing thread that might have someone more mechanical than me. Something is not working with the auto-off feature.
Was the dealer's service dept. able to tell you anything?
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Lambanlaa
Once you have parts inside that have worn out (for whatever reason), no liquid will restore them to working condition. These parts need replacement.
The previous reply could be "right-on", however, you owe it to yourself to try something else--B4 a rebuild job! You're no worse off--right? Besides, it might buy you a little time! However, I would try a Lube Guard transmission additive, B4, Lucas. I've tried both--and I've gotten better results w/ Lube Guard. Also, Lucas additive, will also swell and eventually dissolve your seals, over a sustained period of time. Also, Lube Guard is the only product I've seen in transmission shops. What does that tell you? Good luck!!
Any idea what might cause that?
At light to moderate acceleration, at what speed (MPH) does the transmission shift into 5th gear?
Please state the year of your Accord when answering.
Often it's the people who carry passengers or heavy items in the trunk that notice strut degradation first.
I guess the only caveat to that is if you need to make an evasive maneuver on the highway or some such thing like that, the car may not react the way the driver expects. Age & mileage take a toll on the shocks and while driving in a straight line at moderate speeds, it may not be noticeable but when attempting to quickly change direction, issues can arise.
I have a 2007 Honda Accord EX (V6). It has 26,000 miles and runs very well.
One problem: The climate control system(AC or heat) makes a odd rumbling sound when I'm at a red light or whenever the car isn't moving for at least 5-10 seconds and the car is in drive.
I also feel a vibration in the brake pedal whenever this rumbling sounds occurs. The vibration and the rumbling disppear when I turn the air off.
It doesn't occur every time I stop the car. It does happen every time I drive.
The service techs have not been able to hear the sound or feel the vibration - I'm going to have to drive with them in the future.
I did have the hepa air filter replaced in November and the rumbling and vibration went away for about two months.
Does anyone have any idea what may be causing this rumbling and vibration?
I'd appreciate any help.
Thank you.
Oil changes every 5-7k - Quaker State 5W20 since new.
Drain and fill transmission (3qts Honda ATF) every 15k.
Drain and fill radiator coolant every 50k (1.3 gal. Honda Coolant).
Changed spark plugs at 97k, but they still looked great, and could have waited much longer. Plan to change again at around 220k.
Air filter changes at 20k.
Front brake pads at 70k, 100k, and 156k. Also replaced front rotors at 100k.
Drive belt at 110k.
Have not changed any suspension parts yet, as I have not experienced any handling, tire wear issues, etc.
I am no expert in auto maintenance, but maintaining a Honda is very simple. This may not be the schedule, type of oil, etc. that everyone will follow, but it has certainly worked for me. We currently have four Hondas, and I maintain them all similarly.
Regards,
Derek
The reply by "deliciousbass" is right-on w/maintenance. As far as struts, that depends on your vehicle & the strut wear; meaning that some struts wear indefinitely w/o replacement needed. Symptoms of struts needing replacement are slight bouncing or a slight pulling when you change lanes or try an evasive maneuver, and their is to much give on one side or the other. This is what happened on our 2004 Accord EX, 4dr w/ 200,000 miles. I went to the dealer and picked-up 2 complete strut packages for about $300, and installed them myself and got an alignment at the dealer for about $65 or $75. They were running a special. You need 2 jackstands, rubber gloves, 3/8" breaker bar and 12, 14, & 16mm sockets. Looosen the pinching nuts below, lubricate w/silicone spray, hit it w/a rubber mallet, so you don't damage any metal parts, lower arm should drop. Topside, you'll see 3 nuts, looosen & remove, and the strut assy. will drop and you shoud be able to wriggle free the assy and put in the replacement strut assy. Reverse order of removal, and wallah, you completed a strut R&R job, and saved yourself $200-$350 labor, in the process. Remember work safe and clean, plenty of light--and you will like the results, and put another feather in your cap!!! Hope this helps!
I tried several times to reprogram the thing,and finally took it to the dealer. Of course they had no problem re-setting it.
When i tried to do it i just had the key in the on position,Dealer Tech started the engine to program it. Does the engine have to be on and running?
I got bum info from a friend
Thanks for your reply
called Honda customer care, they claim the car was bought at the dealership so it is their car and not Honda's. They do not want to warranty the factory trained mechanics work and claim they would not allow other dealership to fix the issue either. My dealership simply does not know how to fix the issue and is now lying about not being able to replicate problem.
any suggestion, how I deal with the dealership to get the problem they created resolved, or Honda to allow me to get another dealership to fix my car.
Was any other work performed (tire rotation maybe?) when you had the throttle body cleaned?
Mrbill
1) I remembered the dealer service advisor had me change my brake pads probably once ever 1.5 years--and I drive about 11,000 miles per year; the independent service shop i go to did not recommend changing my brake pads that fast.
2) In August 2010, out of nowhere, I had my Accord in at the dealership to do a routine 5K mile maintenance, the service advisor said my Accord's front shocks were leaking fluid and would cost $700 to replace--and he stated it must be done soon because it would be a safety issue. I was shocked at this so I took my accord to an independent repair shop (they only service Hondas and Toyotas) and they found nothing wrong with my shocks--I now use them for my Accord's service & repair.
3) I remembered doing an alignment on my Accord after I ran over a big pothole in 2008, the service department advisor said they could not fix my alignment issue and my Accord would drift to the right and recommended me to get it fixed by a body shop (which the dealership is affiliated with). I refused to do it. Later, in Sept 2010, when I changed all 4 of my tires (using tirerack.com) at an independent shop (affiliated with tirerack.com), I had an alignment done and my Accord drives straight!
overall, I think the dealership service department have to charge much higher than independents because of the licensing fees they have to pay to Honda and admittedly the dealership's waiting lounge is definitely much better than most independent shops--but you have pay through the nose for it by either high service prices or hidden costs--like more frequent unnecessary maintenance procedures (brakes, shocks, etc).
I am also looking at new tires, feeling comfortable with the 60k from the 205/60R16 Bridgestone Turanza EL41s. They were reasonably quiet and offered decent all season traction but were disappointing in dry weather handling. I am still planning to do the 17" upgrade to 215 or 225 17s so I can get something of a performance tire. After putting true snow tires on our other car, I am looking forward to having those on this vehicle as well next winter on the original wheels.
Lastly I have the Acura TL rear sway bar waiting to be installed with updated brackets, bushings and end links. For an hour of work and $40, I will see if that helps with the front end plow the Accord exhibits on corners.
http://www.bgprod.com/products/products.html
I haven't used any BG products with my '07 Accord but have had good luck with their products in my '89 Galant.
I'm over 90k on my OEM EL41s. I still have a fair amount of tread left but I've been looking as well. I sure read a lot of good reviews on the Michelin Primacy MXV4s.
I'm still on my original brakes too. It's getting close to the time I have to replace those as well.
I also have all original brakes - and they have plenty of life left.
Yeah I am going to put W409s or similar on the original wheels. Our Subaru on snows was amazing last winter, and those were WinterSport D3s, which aren't a super-hard-core snow tire at all (before that it had used W404s that had worn funny and out of balance). My commute is almost all highway so I expect the tires to last a long time.
I am looking at the Primacy MXV4 this summer - Michelin has a $70 rebate that comes and goes so I will probably get in on the next one.
Yeah, I think I am going to get something more aggressive for the summer tires, like a Dunlop DZ101. I really have never been a huge fan of Michelin, although I've never had a problem with them, either.
When I read the ratings on Tire Rack and elsewhere, the Primacy MXV4 really shines so we'll see.
Costco has $70 off on Michelin now so I'll probably go with the V rated tires soon. They are $145 each and with install, state fees and taxes, they are $633.48 out the door. Discount Tire is a buck cheaper per tire but install is more. Plus they don't have the $70 discount right now. Tire Rack would be much more with local install.
The way things are working out, brakes, tires, and 100k tune-up are going to be close together so getting the tires now will help with evening out the expenses.
The 4 cylinders don't have a timing belt anymore, right? So is it just spark plugs, fuel filter, air filter, and oil change? And some inspections? Or do you have to replace the water pump and chain tensioners as well?
Water pump is just listed as an inspect item (even on the 6 cyl. where you have to replace the timing belt). So most likely you just ignore it unless it fails.
the chain tensioners are also ignored I think.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
Good question. I'll have to check when it pops up on the maintenance minder. I'm too lazy to go down and see what the owner's manual says right now.
It just says something about taking it in when the wrench goes on, and does not include the schedule.
I actually look at the manual for my Accord (using the V6 chart) to figure out what to do when for the van!
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
Here's a TIRE SIZE CALCULATORto help you.
My Accord came originally with Michelin tires and they lasted me well into the 70k mile range, but occasionally I noticed that sometimes when I accelerate from a stop in rain, I could lose traction (which can be kind of scary and have to hold tight on the steering wheel).
The Michelin Primacy MXV4 I currently have performs similarly to the original Michelin's but it doesn't have that traction problem. I live in the Los Angeles area so I have never driven in snow. Also, with my original Michelins it would squeak when I turn right or left too fast, with the new Primacy MXV4's they don't do that.
Overall, I am quite satisfied with the Primacy MXV4s. My mom's 2007 Camry OEM Bridgestone Turanza tires lasted only about 40k miles before needing to be replaced (because they have a lower thread life rating than the Michelins).
The treadwear rating is kind of a joke. Its an index number based on each tire manufacturer's own testing against a "standard" tire. It basically means treadware ratings are only comparable with in a brand, not really between tires or brands.
Its also slightly harder to tell when someone feels a tire handles better or corners better than another tire because the tire's performance changes as it wears and its hard to get a baseline.
The nice thing is, most drivers don't care. They want something that will provide a cushy ride and last a long time, and maybe good fuel economy. Unfortunately, I want a tire that feels responsive, offers good turn in, good lateral grip, and good performance in wet conditions. I am willing to trade off some treadware and even some fuel economy for that. I am not willing to accept error states like tramlining or rubbing.
I also drained the coolant and refilled it with Honda blessed coolant for the 2nd time (1st at 30k, this time at 60k).
Since the back was in the air anyway, I started to install the Acura TL rear sway bar. The end links are the worst part. I tried the allen key in the back of the bolt while trying to unscrew the nut and it didn't really get me anywhere (I think it was a 5mm allen key that fit). Anyone else have any luck with that? Everything else was easy as pie. Right now, I think i am just going to get the old ones out by any means necessary and get new ones ($60/pr). Any thoughts?
I know that in going from 2005 to 2006, Honda slightly changed the engine and reworked the suspension a bit, plus the nicer tail lights (gauges, too, right?) Looking at Edmunds pricing, there seems to be about an $1,800 gap between the two. I'd be inclined to go with the 2006, but it seems very hard to find this particular combination of EX, manual, 4 cyl, 4 doors. So if I came across a 2005 priced right, it might be tempting. Are there any mechanical issues that I should be aware of that would affect my decision? Most likely I would hold onto the car for several years. No other really distinguishing driving needs.
My 04 EXL I4 has side curtain air bags, I just don't know about the DX/LX models since I don't have the sales literature for 04.
Mrbill