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Comments
As for the bucking, change your fuel filter and make sure your buying premium diesel from a good source. Also have the dealer check your battery and charging system. Weak electrical systems will cause problems.
How were you able to find a 2.5 CRD?
For the growling noise I would check fluid level first, the tension of the serpentine belt and the power steering pump. On mine the dealership wanted to replace the power steering and I refused. That was 3 years ago already.
I added 4.5 gallons of fresh fuel. Pumped the primer. It started up and ran fine. I drove it to the fuel station and added 13.5 gallons more. That's 18 gallons total. So it should have had 2.5 gallons left in it when it died.
Anybody got a diagram of the fuel tank assembly?
I was wondering if you have ever got the check engine light solved. My light just came on about three weeks ago. The TECHs got two codes: 1. EGR Deviation Flow and 2. Turbo under boost code. My service TEch suggest us to replace two hoses (Charge Air cooler). After reading these forum I think they were wrong. My Jeep had about 38000 on it when the light came on.
It might be that the electric pump is somehow to high, and will not pick up that last 2.5 gallons. I would take it back to the dealer. Hope this helps.
Farout
Just curious, am I a rare case?
Jon
According to the owner's manual, on page 174, it states the low fuel light should come on "when there is 2.3 U.S. gallons". :confuse:
Is this your first diesel? I am amazed that DCX thought we could just jump in these CRD's and go. These CR's do need a lot more attention than a gas Liberty. It seems to me I am always learning more and seeing that these engines are real tough, but they need to be kept up in the right way.
Farout
I love the design, enjoy the decent mileage, hate the frequent breakdowns and despise the fact my "5-star" dealer appears to be incapable of repairing anything the first, second, or third time. I will say when the guys from our sub in the UK come to visit they are impressed by a yankee with a diesel though (some joys there).
According to the dealer, this came with a 3/36 warranty. Unfortunately for me, Illinois has nearly the weakest lemon laws in the USA and unless you have under 12k and are under 12 months since purchase, tough bananas. Bummer for a guy that drives 50k annually.
Regardless, I learned one thing from this whole ordeal: its not so much the model or make you buy, but the dealer makes the difference. Never ever buy a vehicle from Jack Wolf Jeep in Belvidere, IL!!!!!!
Farout
Let's try a meet the members discussion with the understanding that if a thread takes off, we'll set up a separate and easily searchable discussion for it. Here's the link:
Jeep Liberty Common Rail Diesel Jeep Liberty Common Rail Diesel Meet & Greet (maybe CRD would be less of a mouthful?)
LK
nescosmo....
Once you are familiar with the discussions here, the easiest way to keep up with new posts is to use the Tracking system. So for everything CRD, you'd want to track the Jeep Liberty and Jeep Liberty Diesel Group. If you don't care about CRD prices or leasing or non-diesel info, you could then untrack those discussion(s).
Any new discussions would show up on your tracking radar, and if the thread wasn't of interest you would turn off tracking for that discussion as well.
Hey, it's easier than keeping track of what additives you should put in the CRD at your next fill up. :shades:
If ya discounted the cost of the Micky's D used frying oil, and the cost per mile goes way down! (again a persons time in making the Bio fuel does not count either)
Just because the fuel pump, injector pump, injectors, and glow plugs, might only last only 10% of the time you would get if you used just plan diesel fuel. Now that's what some call saving the BIG money!
Farout
LK
Jeep/before sale to Kia Motors/older Liberty CRD from V.M. Motori/after fifth Ball joint recall/after # 17 ECU/PCM reflash/ with new 656 RFE retro fit Transmission/with new and improved seat covers.
Now that is getting right down to the little bitty nit-picken smallest Detail! I especially like the part about Kia Motors buying out Chrysler. That is what I call a nightmare strieght out of Ford's wish list drawer!
Farout
However, if you must keep it like this, please add a forum titled "whiners only" so I can ignore it
Actually, you're in a minority. We get TONS of complaints from people put off by having to navigate "general" topics containing thousands or even tens of thousands of messages.
please add a forum titled "whiners only"
Hmm!
tidester, host
Walker exhaust, owners of DynoMax has a cat back system for the CRD with a couple of different mufflers. I have the list of parts and their numbers somewhere. Go look here:
http://www.dynomax.com/
If you download the catalog, a pdf file, it is on page 140.
I have not modified the exhaust on my CRD as of yet. I am going to wait for this one to fall apart. I am pretty satisfied with how it works.
Hi! I put this on my CRD. Sounds great, quiet and low pitch. It's 2 1/2" straight through.
Cheers! LK
LK
Sorry to break it to you this way, Jrpeterson75, but your relationship (and anyone else for that matter) with you CRD should be love-hate-fear. The front lower ball joint set up on Jeep Liberty was designed by a D-student. DC used tension ball joints to support the front of the vehicle rather than pressure ball joints!?
My opinion is that this stupid design defect falls in the same catagory as Ralf Nader's "unsafe at any speed" VW Beetle and the exploding gas tank Pintos. At least the Beetle and the Pinto had to be involved in an particular kind of accident to be dangerous.
These Liberty ball joints are not just likely to fail. It is inevitable that uninspected and ignored all existing Libertys will eventually pop their ball joints and fall to the ground. :mad: :sick:
Going by what you said "all existing Liberty's will eventually pop their ball joints". Those words as I put then can be said for every moving part on the Liberty. That's why Ralf Nader destroyed a pretty good vehicle (Corvair) with too wide a general statement. They were safer than most VW bugs, and most early made vehicles from Japan. You remember the country...Japan, we use to get most of our imports from there a long time ago?
Farout
Since the Forum is free I find it hard to complain too much, but I did like it better before the change. I agree with you about the Corvair. GM dropped the model just when it was becoming a much better car and it was not in the same category as the VW Bug
I want to thank you for mentioning Moog ball joints some time back. I now have Moog ball joints installed and filled with synthetic grease. The Moogs are visibly better constructed than the OEM units and heavier to the extent possible given the installation restrictions. The steering is now light and precise going down the highway – all steering numbness is gone.
http://www.moogproblemsolver.com/library.aspx
True every moving part will eventually fail, but not too many moving parts are designed so that when they fail the vehicle drops to the pavement. I wrote a lot about this over on the Jeep Liberty: Ball Joint / Rear End Clunk section and I don’t want to repeat it here. Pressure ball joints support the vehicle by pushing the ball joint ball into the cup. A pressure ball joint can become very loose before it becomes dangerous since the load of the vehicle is still trying to push ball joint ball into the cup.
A tension ball joint, like on the Liberty, works just the opposite. The weight of the vehicle is trying to pull the ball joint apart. It is only the portion of the cup that partially wraps around the ball that carries the load and when that wears far enough the joint pops apart dropping the vehicle. In some of the cases when one side popped the additional load on the other side popped that side also. When you look at the drawing on the Moog site realize that the vehicle is hanging from the ball joints and look at the small area under the ball that is supporting the vehicle.
I will be inspecting my ball joints at each oil change until I find out how the Moogs are holding up. I was at the 1.5mm limit on the OEM at just 28k miles. Thanks again for the tip, Farout.
I bought an 03' Jeep Liberty Sport, it was a leftover on the lot with only 40 miles on it. Loved it at first. Then I had problems with the rotors and brakes, then I had the same exact problem you had, the grinding/clunking noise when I turned left and right. Brought it to my dealer, twice, first time they said it was normal, second time they replaced my driveshaft. It was quiet for a couple of weeks and then the noise came back. Switched dealers, finally after the third try, the new dealer located the problem and I haven't had a problem with that since. It was the rear differentials in the drive shaft, they said the weights were missing. Since then I've had the ball joint recall (wondering what happened to the first recall). Good luck with this. I was getting quite discouraged but I got a paid rental jeep to take on vacation while my first dealer tried to figure out the problem, to no avail. I've had way too many problems with my jeep and I didn't even tow or do any serious 4 wheeling with it. I'm trading it in and going with a new dodge car, 4 cyl - tired of the gas guzzling with the 6 cycl. Good Luck with your jeep, I'm gonna miss mine, I loved the thing but I don't think it will stick with me for the long run so I'm gettin out while I can still get a decent trade in. Don't forget - ask the service technicians to look at the rear differntials! Best of luck to you - Collen
As to water in the fuel, the additives I use regularly gather up any moisture and allow it to pass through the injection system harmlessly.
You do not need to wait for the recall notice. I did not wait for a recall notice and made an appointment at the local Jeep dealer. They did the repair sans notice.
nescosmo
Have had only one problem. The fan clutch had to be replaced twice and a reflash.
We drive the Jeep like a truck. Using the trans. as a clutch to slow. We pull a travel trailer (2800#) and get 19mpg. Yesterday I tested the mpg on the hwy got 26 driving 68mph.
So far the Jeep has preformed as advertised.
We always let the engine warm up for 2 min. when cold b/4 putting it into gear. I don't think there is another vehicle on the market now that would give us the towing capacity hi clearance and mpg that the Liberty does. So far we're satisfied.
The original diesel engine built by Rudolf used coal dust and then peanut or some vegetable oil.
Farout
Farout