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Comments
by Ford in your Owner's Guide;
"Electronic Compass
Factors affecting compass accuracy
The compass reading can be affected when you
drive near a number of things — such as large
buildings, bridges, power lines, and powerful
antennas.
Your compass can also be affected by magnetic
or metallic objects placed in or on the vehicle. If
the compass is giving inaccurate readings,
perform the following compass adjustments.
Compass adjustments
There are two possible adjustments to the
compass: Zone and Calibration.
Zone adjustment
1. Determine which zone of the country you
are in by referring to the following zone
map.
Zone map
2. Press and hold the “MODE” button until the
“VAR” indicator appears in the display
(approximately 4 seconds).
3. Release the “MODE” button. The display
will now show the current zone number that
is stored in the compass.
4. Press the “MODE” button repeatedly (or
press and hold in) until the desired zone
number appears in the display (once it
reaches 15, the next press of the button will
set it to 1).
5. Release the “MODE” button when the
desired zone number is displayed.
After approximately three seconds the display
will flash all segments and then return to normal
operation. Zone is now updated.
Calibration adjustment
1. Find an open area that is free from steel
structures and high voltage lines. An open
parking lot is a good example.
2. Press and hold the “MODE” button until the
“CAL” indicator appears in the display
(approximately 8 seconds).
NOTE: You cannot perform calibration unless
the display reads “CAL.”
3. Release the “MODE” button.
4. Once the “CAL” indicator has appeared,
drive the vehicle slowly (less than 3 mph /
5 km/h) in 360° circles until the “CAL”
indicator turns off. This will happen within 2
to 3 complete circles."
by Steve83 and Ford; Test it's sensor. If it's good, replace the module inside the console. But it has a built-in error. Read this
TSB 96-8-15 Erratic Compass & Map Lamp Operation - Vehicles Built Through 2/1/96
Publication Date: APRIL 8, 1996
LIGHT TRUCK:
1993-96 EXPLORER
1994-96 BRONCO
ISSUE: Map lamp switch and/or overhead compass function operation is irregular, and/or map lamp bulbs may burn out on some vehicles. Installation of revised parts should resolve this issue.
ACTION: Replace the map lamp, switch, compass and wiring harness with a revised Overhead Console Kit (F67Z-78519C42-AA). Refer to Instruction Sheet #7151, included with the kit, for service procedure.
The Overhead Console Kit (F67Z-78519C42-AA) includes the following:
One (1) Map Lamp Assembly
One (1) Map Lamp Button
One (1) Compass
One (1) Wiring Harness
One (1) Modification Label
One (1) Instruction Sheet (I.S. #7151)
PART NUMBER PART NAME
F67Z-78519C42-AA Overhead Console Kit
OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: NONE
WARRANTY STATUS: Eligible Under The Provisions Of Bumper To Bumper Warranty Coverage
OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME
960815A Replace Map Lamp And Console Assembly 0.3 Hr.
Many things to ck;
Battery posts, connectors; and cables/connectors to starter relay, starter, Ground cables from batty to engine, firewall and frame
suspect a weak battery or a bad ignition switch, a wiring problem, or...
Hard to guess at from here, some some suggestions;
ez stuff first
Could be just the belt(s);
can you get a helper to listen for location of the sound using a piece of graden hose or cardboard tube (gift wrap, etc.)? Be careful of fan! and hot radiator, etc.
Belt worn or stretched to maximum take-up length of system.
Tension force not sufficient.
next is the pulley
pulley has been marred in belt tracking area.
Pulley or tensioner are worn.
Pulley does not rotate smoothly or has a
sticky feel to it when spun
Worn bearing
GL
Meanwhile, I don't see a '90 2.9l, just a 2.3L, a 3.0L and a 4.0L engine. I'll email you a pdf file of the 3.0 L one that has a wiring diagram. Hopefully you can make heads or tails of it!
check positive and negative cables & connectors at the battery -look at wire strands u\for corrosion here and all cited below; cable/connector may look good, but a lot of times, corrosion is within strands creeping up into connectors
NEG (ground cables) to the engine (pass side below intake manifold (ck ground "bar" (metal ) there for rust, corrosion and tightness) and then down to engine block/frame' also from "bar" to firewall wire
Pos (+) to the starter relay, to starter (sometimes they loosen/corrode). Check all the connectors too. Ck alternator wires to batty
GL!
See our NEW Big Bronco Technical/Mods, Parts Sources, Technical Service Bulletins, & Vehicle Classified/General Info Links site
http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=1
Thanks
deb34
http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/images/selftest02.gif
http://www.supermotors.net/vehicles/registry/media/441108_1
see parts #23 Gearshift Selector Tube Spring 7379 (Automatic Only)
24 Gearshift Lever Pin 7G357 (Automatic Only)
25 Transmission Column Shift Selector Tube 7212 (Automatic Only)
26 Screws N806584 (Automatic Only)
27 Gearshift Tube Bushing Clamp 7E400 (Automatic Only)
28 Gearshift Lever Socket Bushing 7335 (Automatic Only)
29 Transmission Shift Selector Position Insert 7A216 (Automatic Only)
30 Screw N806584 (Automatic Only)
31 Shift Lock Actuator 3Z719 (Automatic Only)
32 Shift Cable and Bracket 7E395 (Automatic Only)
etc, try a junk yard for parts.
Shift Cable Adjustment for 92-96
Source: by Steve83 http://www.supermotors.net/vehicles/registry/media/434182
for now;
Those hubs, auto or manual do not like a lot of grease
Ck for broken parts on da wheel that does not spin;
Dana 44 Parts Break-Out Diagrams w/ auto & manual locking hubs & BoM
Source: by Dana 2.dana.com BIG PDF FILE!http://www2.dana.com/pdf/X510-2CVSP.PDF
and
"How to test Ford Auto locking hubs on all TTB aplications.
1. Place transfercase in 2HI or Neutrall.
2. Lying under vehicle, turn front drive shaft (one direction only).
3. Automatic hubs should lock after 1 to 5 turns of driveshaft (one direction only).
After step 3 the hubs should lock, youll know they are locked becouse you will hear a click from both hubs and you will no longer be able to turn the front drive shaft (in the same direction). If this is not the case then continue to step 4. If you can no longer turn the drive shaft (in the same direction) then skip to step 7.
4. If you can still turn the drive shaft (one direction only) then one or more of your Auto hubs is not working.
5. Continuing to turn the Drive shaft (one direction only).
6. Look at the u-joints for the front stub axles, if both are turning then both front hubs are malfunctioning, if only one is turning then the one that is not turning is locked and the one turning is malfuctioning.
Replace as necosary (preferably with manual hubs, Auto hubs have Yams in them)
7. To unlock the hubs, turn drive shaft in opisat direction untill you hear a click from the hubs.
To check for transfercase engagement.
1. Place pushbutton transfercase in either 4 HI or 4LO.
2. lie under vehicle.
3. You should not be able to turn front drive-shaft in either direction." by Gacknar!
GL!
You prob. have this type of Hub;
Flange-style Manual Hub Parts Break-Out Diagram, used only on 87 & early 88 F150s & Broncos by Steve83
http://www.supermotors.net/clubs/superford/vehicles/registry/media/470240
This was a change by Ford that didn't last long; so you may have prob.s finding new parts.
Some info for you:
11.3 How come the hubs on my 87-88 Bronco are different than other Broncos?
This was another of Ford's better ideas. For '87 and '88 Ford used a one-piece locking hub assembly. This hub simply sits between the wheel and brake rotor and is held in place by the wheel studs. This type of hub is very easy to remove (simply remove the wheel), but it is different from all other Broncos and therefore parts and replacement hubs are expensive and hard to find.
To convert your 87-88 Bronco to the "standard" hubs you'll need to swap all the parts from the spindle out from a Bronco or F-150. It may even be possible to take these parts from any vehicle with a Dana 44 front axle and the same wheel bolt pattern as the Bronco (5 on 5.5"). If you are considering this swap it would be a good time to consider the 8 lug axle swap you've always wanted (see section 10.2).
10.2 Can I put 8 lug rotors on the front of my Bronco?
8 lug rotors (and larger axles and hubs) can be installed in 78-79 Broncos. The axle housing on 78-79 Bronco and F-150 Dana 44's are similar to the Dana 44's used on F-250's. To install the 8 lug rotors from an F-250, you need to swap everything from the knuckle out as well as the axle shafts themselves. This is a super strength upgrade from the stock axles, and also gives you bigger brakes.
The jury is still out on 8 lug upgrades for TTB axles from 80-96 Broncos. Some people have done the swap, but it required making spacers for the ball joints because the 5 lug TTB Dana 44 knuckles are smaller than the "regular" Dana 44.
It's a good idea to do the rear axle at the same time and upgrade the master cylinder to match your new brakes.
GL!
our New Bronco Tech Links Site;
http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=1
Thanks
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
Is there spark @ the plugs?
-------------
The module and pickup (Hall Effect (Stator (RPM)) in the distr are common problems and can be tested.
Ford TFI; "the Hall Effect Signal is called the “Profile Ignition Pick-up” (PIP) signal. Corroded connectors between the Hall Effect PIP unit in the distributor and the TFI module on the distributor housing are common. Replacing the sensor isn’t as easy on these applications because you have to R&R the distributor shaft."
Source: by Wells Manufacturing
Testing (for stangs, but similar)
Source: by P B at onr.com via web.archive.org
http://web.archive.org/web/19981202220123/http://www.onr.com/user/pbooth/mustang- /tfi.html
---------------------------------
try this first;
SELF TEST - & DTCs; COMPREHENSIVE; Includes Steps to Clear Continuous Memory & Keep Alive Memory (KAM)Codes; & a list of reasons why a technician may see the MIL lamp lit with no accompanying Continuous Memory Self-Test codes
Source: by Steve83
http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=44736
since it won't start, just do the KOEO test
if you get any codes; post em here or look them up in my site for possible causes
also, some codes are in here; + the TFI Module test; btw, there was a Recall on these modules:
TFI Module Diagnostics Manual
Source: by broncoii.org
http://www.broncoii.org/techpages/eeciv/index.htm
my ignition Links page:
http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=638
GL!
Back to driving my bronco.
Deb
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
Yes this does happen. Get another one from a local yard.
or...
Try an upgrage to a Saginaw Pump; some install LINKS in my Bronco site for you to look at & decide;
http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=343
Try Swap in a 96 by bossind good pics!
http://www.4x4preservation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=156
GL!
our New Bronco Tech Links Site;
http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=1
My bronco II 1988 i change the transmissiom(automatic) because the old one don't want to change on Overdrive,the second one don't change speed it stay on first gear, the kick dowm cable and oil trans it's ok.
It is possible it's electric problem,because mi cruise control,head light,dont work
Some info for you;
"..My AOD works fine in Park, Reverse, and Neutral, and will move forward in OD, D, and Low, but is always in first gear, what could cause this?
There are a few common causes for this. The first is a disconnected or missing TV linkage. If the TV linkage is disconnected the transmission should default to full TV pressure which will make the transmission shift as if it were at Wide Open Throttle all the time. It is also possible that the TV valve in the valve body is stuck in the high pressure position. The easiest way to see if this is the case is to perform a TV pressure test as shown on our TV Linkage Adjustment Page.
Keep in mind when installing the Lokar TV cable with a carburetor, or when making your own TV linkage it is possible to push the TV valve in further than the factory cable allowed. If you are using a valve body with some mileage on it there may be enough of a ridge from the original range of travel to cause the TV valve to get stuck when it travels past the ridge.
You could also have a stuck governor, or a stuck 1-2 shift valve. If the governor is sticking it will cause a delayed, or no upshift, depending on how bad the condition causing the sticking is. If the 1-2 shift valve is stuck, and will not stroke, the transmission will not shift out of first gear.
To top
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
&
I just put an 85 AOD transmission in a 1995 F150. My linkage is correct and I have Park, Reverse, and Neutral, but when I go to Drive, 2, or 1, it wont shift out of first gear. What should I do? There was a plug on top of the transmission when I pulled it out of the 85 Ford, what does that do?
The plug on the top of the transmission is the backup lamp and neutral safety switch. It sounds like you don't have a TV cable hooked to the transmission. If the TV cable is not connected the transmission will default to full TV pressure. If TV pressure is full shifts will only occur at the wide open throttle shift point, which is usually around 4900 RPM. This means that even at light throttle you would have to get to 4900 RPM to get a 1-2 shift. If you do have the TV linkage connected, you will need to put a pressure gauge on the TV port to make sure the TV pressure varies properly with throttle position..."
by Baumann Electronic Controls, LLC becontrols.com
--------
TV Linkage Adjustment
Source: by Baumann Electronic Controls, LLC becontrols.com
http://www.becontrols.com/tech/tvlinkage.htm
GL!
our New Bronco Tech Links Site;
http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=1
You need a manufacturer or the unit?
one source;
Powerdyne™
http://www.powerdyne.com/
F-Series Pickup, Full-size Bronco 1988-96 5.OL/5.8L V8, 6PSI K10183-101 K10183-201
Details:
Includes FMU (fuel management unit), larger fuel pump, Powerchip or by-pass valve NOT required; easy bolt-on 3 hr install.
see some pics/install article Links in my site under ENGINE, SUPEPERCHARGER
GL!
our New Bronco Tech Links Site;
http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=1
btw:
a fuse link is installed in the wiring between the battery and the alternator. If the battery is shorted, the fuse link is melted, protecting the alternator.
i have had that clock spring problem and have had t fixed 1-3 years ago but not my airbag light is flashing again
around 4-5 times
and when i shut off the ignition after driving there is an audible alarm that beeps several times then repeates itseld like 3 times or so. it is a different sounding alarm than door ajar or seat belt unfastented...
what do you think friend?
You need to get a good count of the flashes and beeps
Here ya go on the test;
The air bag diagnostic monitor illuminates the air bag indicator for approximately six seconds when the key is in RUN and then turns the indicator off. This shows that the air bag indicator is operational. If the air bag indicator does not illuminate or the indicator stays on or flashes at any time, a fault has been detected by the air bag diagnostic monitor.
* Diagnostic trouble codes may not be displayed for approximately 30 seconds after the key is placed in RUN. This is the amount of time the air bag diagnostic monitor requires to perform all tests and verify system faults, if present.
* Each diagnostic trouble code (a series of flashes and pauses of the air bag indicator) represents a two-digit number. Each diagnostic trouble code is always displayed at least twice. For example, a diagnostic trouble code 32 is displayed as three flashes, followed by a one-second pause, then two flashes, followed by a three-second pause.
* If a system fault is present and the air bag indicator is malfunctioning, an audible tone will be heard, indicating that system service is required. The tone is a series of five sets of five beeps. This does not indicate a diagnostic trouble code 55. If the tone is heard, the air bag indicator is inoperative and a system fault that requires service is present.
CAUTION: The thermal fuse does not blow (open) because of excessive current flowing through it. DO NOT attempt to jumper out the thermal fuse with a circuit breaker or any other type of fuse.
* If a fault exists that makes unwanted air bag deployment possible, the air bag diagnostic monitor has an internal thermal fuse that will blow (open) automatically. This removes all power to the air bag deployment circuit.
* The air bag indicator will flash the appropriate diagnostic trouble code to indicate the suspect circuit. If the indicator is malfunctioning the tone will be heard.
* Diagnostic trouble codes are prioritized numerically so if two or more different faults occur at the same time, the fault having the highest priority will be displayed first. After that fault has been corrected, the next highest priority fault will be displayed.
* The air bag diagnostic monitor includes an internal backup power supply. This feature provides sufficient backup power to deploy the air bag in the event the battery or battery cables are damaged in an accident before safing and primary crash sensors close. The backup power supply will deplete its stored energy approximately one minute after the positive battery cable is disconnected.
Airbag DIagnostic Monitor (ADM) Light Flash Code (LFC) Priority Table
Tone (5 Beeps Repeated 4 Times): Air Bag Indicator Open Circuit with Stored Fault Code(s)
No Air Bag Indicator (Dash Light Out): Inoperative Indicator Circuit or No Battery Voltage to ADM
Continuous Air Bag Indicator: ADM Disconnected or Inoperative
12: Low Battery Voltage
13: Air Bag Circuit Shorted to Ground
14: Front Air Bag Sensor and Bracket Circuit Shorted to Ground
21: Rear Air Bag Sensor and Bracket Not Mounted to Vehicle Properly
22: Rear Air Bag Sensor and Bracket Output Circuit Shorted to Battery Voltage
23: Rear Air Bag Sensor and Bracket Circuit Input Feed/Return Circuit Open
24: Rear Air Bag Sensor and Bracket Output Feed/Return Circuit Open
32: Driver Side Air Bag Circuit High Resistance or Open
34: Driver Side Air Bag Circuit Low Resistance or Shorted
41: RH Front Air Bag Sensor and Bracket Feed/Return Circuit Open
42: LH Front Air Bag Sensor and Bracket Feed/Return Circuit Open
44: RH Front Air Bag Sensor and Bracket Not Mounted to Vehicle Properly
45: LH Front Air Bag Sensor and Bracket Not Mounted to Vehicle Properly
51: ADM Internal Thermal Fuse Blown Due to Intermittent Short to Ground
52: Backup Power Supply Voltage Boost Fault
53: Front Air Bag Sensor and Bracket Circuits Resistance to Ground or ADM Fault
Rapid Continuous Flashing of Air Bag Indicator (No Fault Code): All Primary Air Bag Sensors Disconnected
I replied, but apparently the Admin here del my post ...
So, maybe he'll give you info.
btw, I did write that :
believe it is mostly due to the weight difference between the XL and XLT models; XLT has pw, console, running boards, more trim with more insulation, electr. Xfer case module & motor, etc. Even though the trim panels and headliner don't seem to weigh much, it all adds up.
We started with our 96 XL, bought new; & installed pw, pdl, mil/police style push bar, nerf bars, Tuffy console, etc and went from rural driving 15 mpg down to about 14.
Other than wt. check tire pressures monthly and try yo reduce cargo weight.
GL!
-------------------------------------------------
adios friends!
Russ
So please help! My dad's too busy to get a lot of work done, and I'm a seventeen year old girl. What do I know about cars!