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Ford Bronco Problems

13567

Comments

  • miesk5miesk5 Member Posts: 35
    fordmangt350,
    by Ford in your Owner's Guide;
    "Electronic Compass
    Factors affecting compass accuracy
    The compass reading can be affected when you
    drive near a number of things — such as large
    buildings, bridges, power lines, and powerful
    antennas.
    Your compass can also be affected by magnetic
    or metallic objects placed in or on the vehicle. If
    the compass is giving inaccurate readings,
    perform the following compass adjustments.
    Compass adjustments
    There are two possible adjustments to the
    compass: Zone and Calibration.
    Zone adjustment
    1. Determine which zone of the country you
    are in by referring to the following zone
    map.
    Zone map
    2. Press and hold the “MODE” button until the
    “VAR” indicator appears in the display
    (approximately 4 seconds).
    3. Release the “MODE” button. The display
    will now show the current zone number that
    is stored in the compass.
    4. Press the “MODE” button repeatedly (or
    press and hold in) until the desired zone
    number appears in the display (once it
    reaches 15, the next press of the button will
    set it to 1).
    5. Release the “MODE” button when the
    desired zone number is displayed.
    After approximately three seconds the display
    will flash all segments and then return to normal
    operation. Zone is now updated.
    Calibration adjustment
    1. Find an open area that is free from steel
    structures and high voltage lines. An open
    parking lot is a good example.
    2. Press and hold the “MODE” button until the
    “CAL” indicator appears in the display
    (approximately 8 seconds).
    NOTE: You cannot perform calibration unless
    the display reads “CAL.”
    3. Release the “MODE” button.
    4. Once the “CAL” indicator has appeared,
    drive the vehicle slowly (less than 3 mph /
    5 km/h) in 360° circles until the “CAL”
    indicator turns off. This will happen within 2
    to 3 complete circles."

    by Steve83 and Ford; Test it's sensor. If it's good, replace the module inside the console. But it has a built-in error. Read this
    TSB 96-8-15 Erratic Compass & Map Lamp Operation - Vehicles Built Through 2/1/96

    Publication Date: APRIL 8, 1996

    LIGHT TRUCK:
    1993-96 EXPLORER
    1994-96 BRONCO

    ISSUE: Map lamp switch and/or overhead compass function operation is irregular, and/or map lamp bulbs may burn out on some vehicles. Installation of revised parts should resolve this issue.

    ACTION: Replace the map lamp, switch, compass and wiring harness with a revised Overhead Console Kit (F67Z-78519C42-AA). Refer to Instruction Sheet #7151, included with the kit, for service procedure.

    The Overhead Console Kit (F67Z-78519C42-AA) includes the following:
    One (1) Map Lamp Assembly
    One (1) Map Lamp Button
    One (1) Compass
    One (1) Wiring Harness
    One (1) Modification Label
    One (1) Instruction Sheet (I.S. #7151)

    PART NUMBER PART NAME
    F67Z-78519C42-AA Overhead Console Kit

    OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: NONE
    WARRANTY STATUS: Eligible Under The Provisions Of Bumper To Bumper Warranty Coverage

    OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME
    960815A Replace Map Lamp And Console Assembly 0.3 Hr.
  • labroncolabronco Member Posts: 2
    i turn key and truck power clicks off and wont start everty thing comes back in 5 min what do i do truck was running great help
  • miesk5miesk5 Member Posts: 35
    labronco

    Many things to ck;
    Battery posts, connectors; and cables/connectors to starter relay, starter, Ground cables from batty to engine, firewall and frame

    suspect a weak battery or a bad ignition switch, a wiring problem, or...
  • jmoney11jmoney11 Member Posts: 1
    I have an 85 bronco XLT, inline 6, 4 speed, and it seems like once I drive it and get it warm, 5- 10 minutes, it starts making this sqealing sound almost like a belt is loose. It goes aways once I come off the clutch and am on the gas from about 1200 rpm 2200 rpm, anyone have any ideas to what it is?
  • miesk5miesk5 Member Posts: 35
    Jmoney

    Hard to guess at from here, some some suggestions;
    ez stuff first

    Could be just the belt(s);
    can you get a helper to listen for location of the sound using a piece of graden hose or cardboard tube (gift wrap, etc.)? Be careful of fan! and hot radiator, etc.
    Belt worn or stretched to maximum take-up length of system.
    Tension force not sufficient.
    next is the pulley
    pulley has been marred in belt tracking area.
    Pulley or tensioner are worn.
    Pulley does not rotate smoothly or has a
    sticky feel to it when spun
    Worn bearing

    GL
  • jmctaguejmctague Member Posts: 1
    my son bought as is not running for $400.00 1990 Bronco11 xlt, 2.9litre. he had to buy a new battery, fuel filter and a new fuel pump. with sending unit for fuel gage. $139. + the plug for the fuel pump relay was bad. this is the help we need to find out where the color coded wires go to a differant pig tail. which of course are a differant color. i did'nt write down the poistion of the wires. (not wise) anyway the wires on the Bronco is blk-yel / org-blu / brn-grn /red - org-lite blu. the other plugs colors are three in a row are blk-red-brn. on the other side across from the black wire is a yellow wire. we need this information to get this vehicle running we hope. his work site is 16 miles twice a day it's killing me on the gas i have to use. i'm on a fixed income. so if some one could take the time to do some research or knows some one that has this model find out the code's? on this Bronco the fuel relay is on the passinger side. Please help us (JERRY) :confuse:
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Hi Jerry, I found some wiring diagrams at the Automotive Repair Reference Center database online via my public library (you may be able to access something similar - check the Online Repair Manuals guide for links).

    Meanwhile, I don't see a '90 2.9l, just a 2.3L, a 3.0L and a 4.0L engine. I'll email you a pdf file of the 3.0 L one that has a wiring diagram. Hopefully you can make heads or tails of it!
  • 96xlt96xlt Member Posts: 6
    I have a 96 Bronco with the 5.8. At times the engine turns over very slow. Timing is good, starter is new, battery is new & and alternator good any ideas ?
  • miesk5miesk5 Member Posts: 35
    yo!

    check positive and negative cables & connectors at the battery -look at wire strands u\for corrosion here and all cited below; cable/connector may look good, but a lot of times, corrosion is within strands creeping up into connectors

    NEG (ground cables) to the engine (pass side below intake manifold (ck ground "bar" (metal ) there for rust, corrosion and tightness) and then down to engine block/frame' also from "bar" to firewall wire

    Pos (+) to the starter relay, to starter (sometimes they loosen/corrode). Check all the connectors too. Ck alternator wires to batty

    GL!
    See our NEW Big Bronco Technical/Mods, Parts Sources, Technical Service Bulletins, & Vehicle Classified/General Info Links site
    http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=1
  • fighterguy211fighterguy211 Member Posts: 3
    i was out playing in the mud and now my four wheel drive doesnt work. i took the hubs apart regreased them and still have the same problem. when i have it in two wheel it goes as if nothing is wrong. when i put it in four wheel high it starts to bang in the front end and when i hit the brakes it starts to pop again. when in four high only one wheel will spin.
  • labroncolabronco Member Posts: 2
    auto stick shift om colum broke still can shift but handle is real loose does any one know what part I need thanks
  • 96xlt96xlt Member Posts: 6
    Thanks for the help, turned out the new battery had a dead cell.
  • deb32deb32 Member Posts: 3
    I have replace the coil,starter,solenodid,spark plugs,cap and rotar, fuel filters.Checked both fuel pumps and it will not start.I have spark,fuel,compression but the car turns over but will not start what did I miss please help.
    Thanks
    deb34
  • bavingtonbavington Member Posts: 6
    Should there be one or two spout conn. on my 93'.There is one by the fenderwell and one about halfway to the dist. on the wiring harness?thanks
  • miesk5miesk5 Member Posts: 35
    One, @ driver side fender
    http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/images/selftest02.gif
  • miesk5miesk5 Member Posts: 35
    yo, some info here:
    http://www.supermotors.net/vehicles/registry/media/441108_1
    see parts #23 Gearshift Selector Tube Spring 7379 (Automatic Only)
    24 Gearshift Lever Pin 7G357 (Automatic Only)
    25 Transmission Column Shift Selector Tube 7212 (Automatic Only)
    26 Screws N806584 (Automatic Only)
    27 Gearshift Tube Bushing Clamp 7E400 (Automatic Only)
    28 Gearshift Lever Socket Bushing 7335 (Automatic Only)
    29 Transmission Shift Selector Position Insert 7A216 (Automatic Only)
    30 Screw N806584 (Automatic Only)
    31 Shift Lock Actuator 3Z719 (Automatic Only)
    32 Shift Cable and Bracket 7E395 (Automatic Only)
    etc, try a junk yard for parts.

    Shift Cable Adjustment for 92-96
    Source: by Steve83 http://www.supermotors.net/vehicles/registry/media/434182
  • miesk5miesk5 Member Posts: 35
    yo, What year is your bronco and does it have manual or auto hubs; does it have man Xfer case shift or electr.?
    for now;
    Those hubs, auto or manual do not like a lot of grease
    Ck for broken parts on da wheel that does not spin;
    Dana 44 Parts Break-Out Diagrams w/ auto & manual locking hubs & BoM
    Source: by Dana 2.dana.com BIG PDF FILE!http://www2.dana.com/pdf/X510-2CVSP.PDF
    and

    "How to test Ford Auto locking hubs on all TTB aplications.

    1. Place transfercase in 2HI or Neutrall.

    2. Lying under vehicle, turn front drive shaft (one direction only).

    3. Automatic hubs should lock after 1 to 5 turns of driveshaft (one direction only).

    After step 3 the hubs should lock, youll know they are locked becouse you will hear a click from both hubs and you will no longer be able to turn the front drive shaft (in the same direction). If this is not the case then continue to step 4. If you can no longer turn the drive shaft (in the same direction) then skip to step 7.

    4. If you can still turn the drive shaft (one direction only) then one or more of your Auto hubs is not working.

    5. Continuing to turn the Drive shaft (one direction only).

    6. Look at the u-joints for the front stub axles, if both are turning then both front hubs are malfunctioning, if only one is turning then the one that is not turning is locked and the one turning is malfuctioning.

    Replace as necosary (preferably with manual hubs, Auto hubs have Yams in them)

    7. To unlock the hubs, turn drive shaft in opisat direction untill you hear a click from the hubs.

    To check for transfercase engagement.

    1. Place pushbutton transfercase in either 4 HI or 4LO.

    2. lie under vehicle.

    3. You should not be able to turn front drive-shaft in either direction." by Gacknar!
    GL!
  • fighterguy211fighterguy211 Member Posts: 3
    88 bronco manual hubs and manual xfer case shift
  • miesk5miesk5 Member Posts: 35
    ok,
    You prob. have this type of Hub;
    Flange-style Manual Hub Parts Break-Out Diagram, used only on 87 & early 88 F150s & Broncos by Steve83
    http://www.supermotors.net/clubs/superford/vehicles/registry/media/470240
    This was a change by Ford that didn't last long; so you may have prob.s finding new parts.
    Some info for you:
    11.3 How come the hubs on my 87-88 Bronco are different than other Broncos?
    This was another of Ford's better ideas. For '87 and '88 Ford used a one-piece locking hub assembly. This hub simply sits between the wheel and brake rotor and is held in place by the wheel studs. This type of hub is very easy to remove (simply remove the wheel), but it is different from all other Broncos and therefore parts and replacement hubs are expensive and hard to find.

    To convert your 87-88 Bronco to the "standard" hubs you'll need to swap all the parts from the spindle out from a Bronco or F-150. It may even be possible to take these parts from any vehicle with a Dana 44 front axle and the same wheel bolt pattern as the Bronco (5 on 5.5"). If you are considering this swap it would be a good time to consider the 8 lug axle swap you've always wanted (see section 10.2).

    10.2 Can I put 8 lug rotors on the front of my Bronco?
    8 lug rotors (and larger axles and hubs) can be installed in 78-79 Broncos. The axle housing on 78-79 Bronco and F-150 Dana 44's are similar to the Dana 44's used on F-250's. To install the 8 lug rotors from an F-250, you need to swap everything from the knuckle out as well as the axle shafts themselves. This is a super strength upgrade from the stock axles, and also gives you bigger brakes.

    The jury is still out on 8 lug upgrades for TTB axles from 80-96 Broncos. Some people have done the swap, but it required making spacers for the ball joints because the 5 lug TTB Dana 44 knuckles are smaller than the "regular" Dana 44.
    It's a good idea to do the rear axle at the same time and upgrade the master cylinder to match your new brakes.

    GL!
    our New Bronco Tech Links Site;
    http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=1
  • miesk5miesk5 Member Posts: 35
    Deb, What year, engine and tranny?
  • broncowomanbroncowoman Member Posts: 4
    I have an 1980 Ford Bronco. The battery will not stay charged. I have put a new altanator on it and a new voltage regulator on it. After doing this I found a short in the wiring and fixed the problem. But the battery still wont stay charged. I have done the test of pulling the battery off to see if it will still stay running without the battery but it won't. It runs great until the battery runs out of juice. I need help! If anyone has any ideas for me to try please let me know.
  • deb32deb32 Member Posts: 3
    The engine was replace with an 89 I think at least that is what I was told. I am assuming that the tranny is an 87. Counld the problem be the ignition module??
    Thanks
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    How old is the battery?

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • miesk5miesk5 Member Posts: 35
    YO!
    Is there spark @ the plugs?
    -------------
    The module and pickup (Hall Effect (Stator (RPM)) in the distr are common problems and can be tested.
    Ford TFI; "the Hall Effect Signal is called the “Profile Ignition Pick-up” (PIP) signal. Corroded connectors between the Hall Effect PIP unit in the distributor and the TFI module on the distributor housing are common. Replacing the sensor isn’t as easy on these applications because you have to R&R the distributor shaft."
    Source: by Wells Manufacturing
    Testing (for stangs, but similar)
    Source: by P B at onr.com via web.archive.org
    http://web.archive.org/web/19981202220123/http://www.onr.com/user/pbooth/mustang- /tfi.html
    ---------------------------------
    try this first;
    SELF TEST - & DTCs; COMPREHENSIVE; Includes Steps to Clear Continuous Memory & Keep Alive Memory (KAM)Codes; & a list of reasons why a technician may see the MIL lamp lit with no accompanying Continuous Memory Self-Test codes
    Source: by Steve83
    http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=44736
    since it won't start, just do the KOEO test

    if you get any codes; post em here or look them up in my site for possible causes
    also, some codes are in here; + the TFI Module test; btw, there was a Recall on these modules:

    TFI Module Diagnostics Manual
    Source: by broncoii.org
    http://www.broncoii.org/techpages/eeciv/index.htm

    my ignition Links page:
    http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=638

    GL!
  • broncowomanbroncowoman Member Posts: 4
    its about 2 weeks old now..
  • deb32deb32 Member Posts: 3
    To all of you thanks for all the help and TFI it was and things are good again.
    Back to driving my bronco.
    Deb
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    That pretty much rules out a defective battery! It sounds like you still have some kind of drain on the battery. One way to test it is to place a test light between the battery and ground. If it lights up, the battery is drawing current.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • broncowomanbroncowoman Member Posts: 4
    Yep tried that too. I've tested every cable and wire that is connected to the alt, battery, and voltage regulator. And still nothing.
  • bigblackbroncobigblackbronco Member Posts: 2
    i have 1995 bronco and the steering gear box on the frame is wore out at 166000 miles have any of you hade this prob?
  • bigblackbroncobigblackbronco Member Posts: 2
    when the bronc is running and you take off the negitive terminal will it keep running or die??
  • broncowomanbroncowoman Member Posts: 4
    it dies.
  • miesk5miesk5 Member Posts: 35
    yo
    Yes this does happen. Get another one from a local yard.
    or...
    Try an upgrage to a Saginaw Pump; some install LINKS in my Bronco site for you to look at & decide;
    http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=343

    Try Swap in a 96 by bossind good pics!
    http://www.4x4preservation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=156
    GL!
    our New Bronco Tech Links Site;
    http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=1
  • hotpighotpig Member Posts: 1
    ">Hello

    My bronco II 1988 i change the transmissiom(automatic) because the old one don't want to change on Overdrive,the second one don't change speed it stay on first gear, the kick dowm cable and oil trans it's ok.

    It is possible it's electric problem,because mi cruise control,head light,dont work
  • arizonabillarizonabill Member Posts: 2
    can anybody help me run down a supercharger for an '89 '-351c bronco?...just working on a never ending project....any help would be appreciated......thx
  • miesk5miesk5 Member Posts: 35
    yo!
    Some info for you;
    "..My AOD works fine in Park, Reverse, and Neutral, and will move forward in OD, D, and Low, but is always in first gear, what could cause this?

    There are a few common causes for this. The first is a disconnected or missing TV linkage. If the TV linkage is disconnected the transmission should default to full TV pressure which will make the transmission shift as if it were at Wide Open Throttle all the time. It is also possible that the TV valve in the valve body is stuck in the high pressure position. The easiest way to see if this is the case is to perform a TV pressure test as shown on our TV Linkage Adjustment Page.
    Keep in mind when installing the Lokar TV cable with a carburetor, or when making your own TV linkage it is possible to push the TV valve in further than the factory cable allowed. If you are using a valve body with some mileage on it there may be enough of a ridge from the original range of travel to cause the TV valve to get stuck when it travels past the ridge.

    You could also have a stuck governor, or a stuck 1-2 shift valve. If the governor is sticking it will cause a delayed, or no upshift, depending on how bad the condition causing the sticking is. If the 1-2 shift valve is stuck, and will not stroke, the transmission will not shift out of first gear.
    To top

    ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    &

    I just put an 85 AOD transmission in a 1995 F150. My linkage is correct and I have Park, Reverse, and Neutral, but when I go to Drive, 2, or 1, it wont shift out of first gear. What should I do? There was a plug on top of the transmission when I pulled it out of the 85 Ford, what does that do?

    The plug on the top of the transmission is the backup lamp and neutral safety switch. It sounds like you don't have a TV cable hooked to the transmission. If the TV cable is not connected the transmission will default to full TV pressure. If TV pressure is full shifts will only occur at the wide open throttle shift point, which is usually around 4900 RPM. This means that even at light throttle you would have to get to 4900 RPM to get a 1-2 shift. If you do have the TV linkage connected, you will need to put a pressure gauge on the TV port to make sure the TV pressure varies properly with throttle position..."

    by Baumann Electronic Controls, LLC becontrols.com
    --------
    TV Linkage Adjustment
    Source: by Baumann Electronic Controls, LLC becontrols.com
    http://www.becontrols.com/tech/tvlinkage.htm

    GL!
    our New Bronco Tech Links Site;
    http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=1
  • miesk5miesk5 Member Posts: 35
    yo!
    You need a manufacturer or the unit?
    one source;
    Powerdyne™
    http://www.powerdyne.com/
    F-Series Pickup, Full-size Bronco 1988-96 5.OL/5.8L V8, 6PSI K10183-101 K10183-201

    Details:
    Includes FMU (fuel management unit), larger fuel pump, Powerchip or by-pass valve NOT required; easy bolt-on 3 hr install.

    see some pics/install article Links in my site under ENGINE, SUPEPERCHARGER

    GL!
    our New Bronco Tech Links Site;
    http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=1
  • miesk5miesk5 Member Posts: 35
    what Voltage do you read @ batty w/engine running? from your posts, you appear to be knowledgeable about testing, so pls forgive me for asking, but am cur about how this turns out...I have info Links on testing Ford/etc charging/batty systems in my site
    btw:
    a fuse link is installed in the wiring between the battery and the alternator. If the battery is shorted, the fuse link is melted, protecting the alternator.
  • djmeltdown65djmeltdown65 Member Posts: 1
    hey miesk5,

    i have had that clock spring problem and have had t fixed 1-3 years ago but not my airbag light is flashing again
    around 4-5 times

    and when i shut off the ignition after driving there is an audible alarm that beeps several times then repeates itseld like 3 times or so. it is a different sounding alarm than door ajar or seat belt unfastented...

    what do you think friend?
  • miesk5miesk5 Member Posts: 35
    YO!
    You need to get a good count of the flashes and beeps
    Here ya go on the test;
    The air bag diagnostic monitor illuminates the air bag indicator for approximately six seconds when the key is in RUN and then turns the indicator off. This shows that the air bag indicator is operational. If the air bag indicator does not illuminate or the indicator stays on or flashes at any time, a fault has been detected by the air bag diagnostic monitor.
    * Diagnostic trouble codes may not be displayed for approximately 30 seconds after the key is placed in RUN. This is the amount of time the air bag diagnostic monitor requires to perform all tests and verify system faults, if present.
    * Each diagnostic trouble code (a series of flashes and pauses of the air bag indicator) represents a two-digit number. Each diagnostic trouble code is always displayed at least twice. For example, a diagnostic trouble code 32 is displayed as three flashes, followed by a one-second pause, then two flashes, followed by a three-second pause.
    * If a system fault is present and the air bag indicator is malfunctioning, an audible tone will be heard, indicating that system service is required. The tone is a series of five sets of five beeps. This does not indicate a diagnostic trouble code 55. If the tone is heard, the air bag indicator is inoperative and a system fault that requires service is present.

    CAUTION: The thermal fuse does not blow (open) because of excessive current flowing through it. DO NOT attempt to jumper out the thermal fuse with a circuit breaker or any other type of fuse.
    * If a fault exists that makes unwanted air bag deployment possible, the air bag diagnostic monitor has an internal thermal fuse that will blow (open) automatically. This removes all power to the air bag deployment circuit.
    * The air bag indicator will flash the appropriate diagnostic trouble code to indicate the suspect circuit. If the indicator is malfunctioning the tone will be heard.
    * Diagnostic trouble codes are prioritized numerically so if two or more different faults occur at the same time, the fault having the highest priority will be displayed first. After that fault has been corrected, the next highest priority fault will be displayed.
    * The air bag diagnostic monitor includes an internal backup power supply. This feature provides sufficient backup power to deploy the air bag in the event the battery or battery cables are damaged in an accident before safing and primary crash sensors close. The backup power supply will deplete its stored energy approximately one minute after the positive battery cable is disconnected.

    Airbag DIagnostic Monitor (ADM) Light Flash Code (LFC) Priority Table

    Tone (5 Beeps Repeated 4 Times): Air Bag Indicator Open Circuit with Stored Fault Code(s)
    No Air Bag Indicator (Dash Light Out): Inoperative Indicator Circuit or No Battery Voltage to ADM
    Continuous Air Bag Indicator: ADM Disconnected or Inoperative
    12: Low Battery Voltage
    13: Air Bag Circuit Shorted to Ground
    14: Front Air Bag Sensor and Bracket Circuit Shorted to Ground
    21: Rear Air Bag Sensor and Bracket Not Mounted to Vehicle Properly
    22: Rear Air Bag Sensor and Bracket Output Circuit Shorted to Battery Voltage
    23: Rear Air Bag Sensor and Bracket Circuit Input Feed/Return Circuit Open
    24: Rear Air Bag Sensor and Bracket Output Feed/Return Circuit Open
    32: Driver Side Air Bag Circuit High Resistance or Open
    34: Driver Side Air Bag Circuit Low Resistance or Shorted
    41: RH Front Air Bag Sensor and Bracket Feed/Return Circuit Open
    42: LH Front Air Bag Sensor and Bracket Feed/Return Circuit Open
    44: RH Front Air Bag Sensor and Bracket Not Mounted to Vehicle Properly
    45: LH Front Air Bag Sensor and Bracket Not Mounted to Vehicle Properly
    51: ADM Internal Thermal Fuse Blown Due to Intermittent Short to Ground
    52: Backup Power Supply Voltage Boost Fault
    53: Front Air Bag Sensor and Bracket Circuits Resistance to Ground or ADM Fault
    Rapid Continuous Flashing of Air Bag Indicator (No Fault Code): All Primary Air Bag Sensors Disconnected
  • 96xlt96xlt Member Posts: 6
    Anyone have some advice. I have a 95 Bronco XL (125,000 miles)with a 351 consistantly gets 15 to 16 MPG. I have a 96 XLT (115,000 miles) with a 351 that will not get over 13 MPG, new irridium plugs, new wires, cap and rotor, timing is dead on, new egr. no trouble codes, starts first crank everytime. Any ideas ?
  • miesk5miesk5 Member Posts: 35
    yo!
    I replied, but apparently the Admin here del my post ...
    So, maybe he'll give you info.

    btw, I did write that :
    believe it is mostly due to the weight difference between the XL and XLT models; XLT has pw, console, running boards, more trim with more insulation, electr. Xfer case module & motor, etc. Even though the trim panels and headliner don't seem to weigh much, it all adds up.
    We started with our 96 XL, bought new; & installed pw, pdl, mil/police style push bar, nerf bars, Tuffy console, etc and went from rural driving 15 mpg down to about 14.

    Other than wt. check tire pressures monthly and try yo reduce cargo weight.

    GL!
    -------------------------------------------------

    adios friends!
  • driver321driver321 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 94 Ford Bronco and i am thinking about going from factory single exhaust to a flow master dual exhaust system. thenking about having it installed by midas or meineke who i am sure will cut the pipe and not run it from the manifold. will i still get better MPG and a little extra power is what i am concerned about if it is done this way, or should i go about doing this a different way. i love my bronco and have decided to put a little money into it to help it useful life. it is the easiest truck i have ever parked or driven for that matter. i am also having trouble with the ac unit. when turn it on the truck overheats do i need a new water bottle or what should i be looking for. any help will be appreciated. thankx
  • arizonabillarizonabill Member Posts: 2
    thankx alot on the rapid response on the supergharger query... (powerdyne)...looks like they got what i want.......(What's the difference between a HUMMER and a BRONCO..??......bronco's go off road........for $50,000 less.....lol
  • fighterguy211fighterguy211 Member Posts: 3
    i was going to weld my gears together in the front diff so i dont have to get lockers. i heard that you can not turn your vehicle in four wheel drive if you do this is that true?
  • 96xlt96xlt Member Posts: 6
    Thanks for the info, I hadn't thought about weight difference. Still frustrating in that I have a 96 Class C Motorhome with the 460 and it actually out does the Bronco on MPG, it gets 14-15 on the road.
  • grayhair2grayhair2 Member Posts: 1
    Hello, I have a problem, I just installed a rebuilt 302 engine, but it show to be getting hot according to the gauge in the dash, I have already replaced the temp sender unit, dash temp gauge, replace all hoses, and had the rad cleaned and vatted out. I had a 185 thermostat, and changed it to a 160, it helped. I dont really think it is over heating, because it has never has boiled over. I have checked it with a lazer temp gun, and it shows to be running at 160 degrees at the block, heads, and intake manifold. I have also check the wiring to make sure it is not grounding out anywhere. The temp needle will show below the half way mark, then after I turn on the A/C, the gauge start to go to the far right side , but still will be in the normal range. I have also ck the cooling fins to make sure the air flow is ok. The rad is a two row core rad. I could sure use some help. Thanks :)
  • storrsstorrs Member Posts: 5
    I have a Bronco ll that starts bucking at about 2grand in any gear.It seems to run good till that point,after driving more it gets worse and worse so that it will buck no matter the rpms and then keep dying.I have changed the filters and can hear both pumps working.It seems to me like its electric problem.So I changed the coil,02 senser,throttle control senser.I am at a lose,can anyone help?PEASE.

    Russ
  • storrsstorrs Member Posts: 5
    It sounds to me like the vacume mod. is not working or the vacume hose is off.
  • meaganjoy90meaganjoy90 Member Posts: 1
    So I have a 1990 Ford Bronco II Eddie Bauer Edition. I haven't had many problems, until last week. There was a piece of metal in the middle of the road when my dad was driving so he pulled over to get it and turned on the emergency flashers. They flashed three times and then turned off. Since then, neither the brake lights or the emergency flashers are working, but the turn signals still work. He tried replacing the brake light switch and the turn signal switch, and neither of them worked. Just today, the flashers started working, but the brake lights still do not work.
    So please help! My dad's too busy to get a lot of work done, and I'm a seventeen year old girl. What do I know about cars!
  • 89blackntan89blackntan Member Posts: 3
    i have an 89 ford bronco with a 5.0l. the idle stays at 2k rpms until i shift it into gear. i have replace the iac motor and checked all linkage, cleaned the throttle body, tuned the motor, checked the egr, im about to pull my hair out. the transmission is also slipping in overdrive and the tranny mechanic that i took it to said the aod tranny is controlled by the computer. can any one help.
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