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Ford Bronco Problems

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Comments

  • 89blackntan89blackntan Member Posts: 3
    how can i test it
  • 96xlt96xlt Member Posts: 6
    96 Ford Bronco 351, I am on my 3rd EGR valve in three months. I have reset the code several times to verify code but it comes back on about a week after I put in new EGR. Code is EGR flow insufficient. P0401 it is the only code that comes up.
  • screwupscrewup Member Posts: 1
    mine did that,replaceed the thottle postion sencer
  • buddy25buddy25 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 88 bronco 11 going to do a bunch of work to it engine swap 5.0 lift kit big tires so on so on i have a 84 full size bronco for motor trans axels everything i need any suggestions on were to start full saize is everything there would it be easeier to cut full size frame down to match my wheel base and put my body on it or put everything under and in my frame
  • dameen6dameen6 Member Posts: 4
    well i had this beast for about 3 years, it was given to me as a present,now i did not know it was going to give me so many problems,i put in so much money i could of bought another truck it has new suspension,new fuel tank,sending unit,etc.I got it running last year in november 2007. I took it for a ride and it started leaking oil alot.,so i pulled the transmission off,it was a pita! fixed the leak bought new converter,flywheel,put it back together now it doesn't move forward or reverse,it has oil,what could it b,before i pull it of again this is my third time,different reasons the first two and it was fine and running everything looks fine,everything was connected correctly,maybe someone can help me with this problem or had this happen,i hope its something simple.
  • dameen6dameen6 Member Posts: 4
    how yu doing,i have and 88 bronco 4x4 i had that problem i replaced the transmission housing gasket and on that housing their a seal and pump seal that fixed my problem and on that pump theirs two seals on it they were also bad i hope it helps.
  • 96xlt96xlt Member Posts: 6
    From the message I posted above, I am on my 3rd EGR valve in 3 months. Could the catalytic converter cause the EGR code ?
  • dgiustidgiusti Member Posts: 3
    gator,

    did you ever get the problem solved and what was it? I may be having the same problem with my 95.
  • dgiustidgiusti Member Posts: 3
    driver321,
    I have a 95 with a 351 that has true duals, sounds goods and runs good but just remember that the mufflers (especially flowmasters) will be right under the back seats and you will definately get some internal noise.
    Be careful with Flowmasters, stay away from the 40 series.
  • dgiustidgiusti Member Posts: 3
    I have a 95 full size with a 351. It runs perfect for about 20-25 minutes then starts to run rough almost like a miss. I've changed plugs, wires, cap, rotor, o2 sensor, ignition module, fuel filter. Check engine light is not on. Prior to this starting I ran Lucas fuel injector cleaner through it and now am hearing bad things about that stuff in older vehicles. Has anyone experienced anything like this and if so what did you do??????
  • dameen6dameen6 Member Posts: 4
    does anyone respond to these or am i on the wrong
    forum. I am new at this. I need some help i can't afford to take it to the
    shop maybe someone has some ideas that they can share or tell me
    who i can talk to or maybe theirs a different forum i can go to. Yur help
    would be greatly appreciated. THANK YOU EVERYONE
  • nhernonnhernon Member Posts: 1
    I have a 95 ford bronco 5.8 L and the problem is i put it into low range and ever since then when i shift into reverse theres a big clunk and sometimes when i shift into drive theirs a big clunk also while im driving it will shift funny or sometimes wont even shift and i have to let off the gas would anybody maybe know the problem and if so maybe a solution to the problem? thanx
  • dameen6dameen6 Member Posts: 4
    how are you PHERNON,well i have a 88 bronco 11, i had similar problems with mine,here's a couple of things you might want to check, driveshaft,universal joints,gears in the rear end, I don't know if you have automatic locking hubs check em also,check yur radius arm on both sides check the insulator and washer they usually are wore out and is rubbing on the crossmember that is some of the things that were done to mine. I HOPE IT HELPS YOU, good luck and let me know if any of them were bad, hopefully it isn't yur tranny, thats were i am stuck for now.
  • dnolendnolen Member Posts: 2
    I have a '92 V8 5.0L Ford Bronco and I have a problem with the engine in the morning. The fuel pump needs to run for about 15 minutes before it has built up enough pressure to start.
    The mechanics think it might be either the connection on the fuel pump. They're going to connect all three tubes seperately instead of together with one clasp.
    If that doesn't help all they can do is replace the on board computer. My faith in mechanics is a little gone since I've spent more on repairs than on the initial amount I paid for the car.

    Has anyone had the same problem or does anyone have any suggestions on where the problem might really lie?

    :confuse: Any help is appreciated.

    Thank you! Danielle
  • bernie11bernie11 Member Posts: 1
    I had this problem before and all it was is a sensor in the engine. It only cost 85 dollars to replace. After that you won't get that jerking anymore. I thought it was the trans but it was only a sensor.
  • cohidecohide Member Posts: 1
    I have an 87 bronco that quit me today, it started twice but died each time after about 2 minutes or so, I'm thinking fuel filter but not real familiar with the fuel system yet, please help, my other truck is a diesel and diesel fuel prices are going through the roof, I have to get my "ol bronc" back on the road
  • droplever1droplever1 Member Posts: 5
    I have a '93 full size Bronco 351 motor Dana(?) drive train w/140k problem started with a "thump" when shifting into reverse, hard ("jerky") shifting, then a vibration/"shudder"(like I'm riding over small rumble strips) when accelerating at 40-55mph. First time to shop they reccomended a service (fluid,filters,etc.) and a product called "shudderstop" for the torque converter. The "thump" went away and it was better for about a month then the shudder started again. Second trip to shop they tried a "shift-pak"(?) and solenoid(s). The thump and hard shifting are gone but I still have a vibration/"shudder" between 40 and 55mph when I accelerate. Any suggestions before I research replacing??? I hope to keep my Bronco indefinitely so I'm not opposed to replacement, but if it's not necessary I'de like to keep my money.
    Thanks
  • buknbroncobuknbronco Member Posts: 1
    I would recommend checking your drive shaft as well as your tranz. You may need new universal joints. If at 40-55 mph you start to fell like it wont go any faster then i recommend doing as i suggested, if it stops as you accelerate past this operating speed i would recommend having the front end checked. good luck!
  • s2603s2603 Member Posts: 1
    Will a 1986 ford Bronco rear door fit a 1992 bronco? My stepson's bronco got hit by a school bus and the only door he can find is a 1986. If the 1986 will not work what years will fit.
    Thanks
  • droplever1droplever1 Member Posts: 5
    thanks for the reply!
    i have checked the drive shaft and there does not appear to be any "slop." the "vibration" has now migrated to other points on the speedo and happens when accelerating. if i turn the "overdrive" off it happens less frequently but continues.
    i am also considering replacing the front shock towers. it looks scary though. any tips?
  • droplever1droplever1 Member Posts: 5
    I have had some success by "googling" "ford replacement parts"
    if you don't find the exact door, you may still get an idea of what you can use instead. i'm not sure if i am supposed to do this or not, but i have used jeffs bronco graveyard.
  • nemises01nemises01 Member Posts: 1
    Hello,

    I have looked everywhere to find a diagram of the 1981 Ford Bronco Stereo wiring.. I can't find it in my schematics book, and i can't find any "free" diagrams over the net.. can someone help me out? It would be much appriciated..
    Thanks,
    nemi
  • hollarhollar Member Posts: 2
    My air conditioner works great while under idle but under acceleration it changes direction and blows warm from the dash I know it is a vacuum problem and I have allready changed the canister. Just wondering if anyone had any Ideas?
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
  • cadman5cadman5 Member Posts: 2
    im not sure if it will help but i have a 1981 bronco with the windsor 302 (but out of a mustang) and i had the same problem of it stoping on me (left me right in the crap) like yours there was no spark... the tow truck driver said it was the amp for the dizzy... as i was going to mexico i left it untill then to buy a new one and while i was there i did so... when i got home to england i fitted it but to no avail... a friend of mine said stop messin about finding fault and just replace the whole dizzy with a HDI unit... i did this for £120 and it works perfect, all it needs is one live wire and one for the taco, and it is a performance part too... im very happy with it... go to geffs bronco graveyard they have them on the shelf for like $105..

    hope it helps

    Neil (from England)
  • cadman5cadman5 Member Posts: 2
    hello

    i also have an 81 bronco and i had the problem of there being no radio at all and none of the wires being there to rig one up easy... so first of all i found a ford double din cd player to go in it... and i got the plugs for it from a scrap yard (i think you call them piggy backs there) and i was lucky enough to have mate who was able to rewire a new harness for the radio... aparently it was easy according to him... but i am sure you could find a spurious wireing diagram on the net or in an old chilton manual or haynes manual... it may be more simple and reliable than using the harness

    good look from england...
  • cdcdarbcdcdarb Member Posts: 4
    I have a 96 ford bronco, 5.8 automatic, runs and starts good, but when I turn on the headlights the engine dies, would seem to be a short, but does anyone know if it could be another known problem ?
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    One thought that comes to mind is that it may be your alternator. It may not be producing enough electricity to power your engine with the headlights on. Anyone else have any ideas?

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • dj7dj7 Member Posts: 2
    I keep getting a code 18. I have replaced the module and checked all the wirng . Any ideas???? I have an 88 Bronco 11 2.9 5 speed 4X4
  • dj7dj7 Member Posts: 2
    I have an 88 Bronco 2 5speed 4x4. My cruse control doesn't work and i am getting trouble codes 18 and 29 , i replaced the ign module and the speed sensor i still get the same codes , i replaced the ecm still no help. Anybody have any ideas??
  • supertoyotasupertoyota Member Posts: 5
    hello my friend put that same stuff in his ranager and a week later had to buy fuel injectors for me i had to do a fuel pump
  • supertoyotasupertoyota Member Posts: 5
    i find a good running 83 bronco for 2,000 and just wanting to know if this is a good deal has already been restored and looks great.
  • supertoyotasupertoyota Member Posts: 5
    if noting else tap in to a wire or fuse that cuts off when u turn the bronco off did that in a 85 ranager i had sumone cut all that out so i made my own
  • supertoyotasupertoyota Member Posts: 5
    my brother just bought one does the same thing we have not find the answer to this prolem yet are self but try ur shift linking in the tranny
  • redraider28redraider28 Member Posts: 9
    Did you ever find out what the cause of this was? I have a 94 Bronco that does the same thing.

    Can you email me at redraider28@yahoo.com

    Thanks
    Lance
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Can you email me at ...

    That would deprive other members of valuable information and defeat the purpose of a Forum. It's best to keep the discussion here. :)

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • robb14urobb14u Member Posts: 1
    I've got an 85 eddie bauer with P/L , P/W, and C/C that have issues,, a short time ago the P/L stopped working, and the P/W are not going up as fast as they use to.. but still work.. and a couple days ago the C/C stopped working,, have hayne's repair man,, but doesn't say much in the elec, chapter.. and electric diagram sucks.. any ideas as to where the relays are located, or what else I should check, and where it is located?? thanks
  • pcgeekpcgeek Member Posts: 6
    I pulled in my driveway and shut off my 90 Bronco (302). Now it will not run.
    It was 'huffing' when I shut it off.
    It has spark, fuel and cranks fine. It had a new coil several weeks before it quit.
    Any ideas? :confuse:
  • bcmammabcmamma Member Posts: 1
    Im writing this message for my husband. The bronco was revved to 4300 rpm, and as a result there seem to be no gears? It can be started, but not driveable. Help?
  • redraider28redraider28 Member Posts: 9
    You're right. Sorry about that. I was replying to a very old post and didn't know if the person was still looking at the forum.

    I had some sugggestions to change the entire distributor, change out the timing chain, change the fuel pump, etc. I had spark and fuel, but the truck wasn't firing enough to run. I ended up putting an MSD coil, distributor cap and rotor. The truck fired right up. I set the timing to 10 degrees and it starts every time now. It's running a little rough until it warms up, so I'm going to change out my thermostat next (cheap fix) and then put MSD plug wires and new plugs in it. Hopefully that will keep it going for a while.
  • bigd14bigd14 Member Posts: 1
    My 89 full size bronco (5.8 liter) will suddenly die with no warning what so ever. If i am at highway speed it will almost instantly restart its self. This only seems to happen on hot days. On cool days, i don' seem to have the problem. Any ideas as to the possible cause?
  • ladybronco89ladybronco89 Member Posts: 3
    :mad: :mad: i have a 89 fullsize 5.8 liter and my left break lights and my turn signal on the same side dosen't work. I tryed the fuses and changing the bulb. What eles can i do?
  • ladybronco89ladybronco89 Member Posts: 3
    hey my bronco started the same thing i replaced the motors for the windows and the lockes now everything works great :confuse:
  • ladybronco89ladybronco89 Member Posts: 3
    check and see you might have a vac leak
  • chris779chris779 Member Posts: 1
    im a 17 yr old kid, getting ready to start working on my dads 84' bronco 2, i have to put a new transmission in it, but ive never done it before, and all the sites i read instructions on, i cant seem to follow, can anyone help me with instructions?
  • hahshahs Member Posts: 1
    Im not to savy on working on trucks but i was looking for some info if someone could help please? Sometimes while im driving my AOD will come on by itself. I try and turn it off by pressing the button on the handel but it wont turn off. So when i give it gas it reacts very slow and then i will get a pretty forcefull jerk whrn it finally shifts. It does not do this all the time or every day. Just sometimes. The only way i can get the AOD to turn off is to pull over and turn the truck off. Sometimes it will start turning on by itself again and sometimes everything runs smoothly for a few days. I need to figure out what is wrong before i end up doing any damage that will cost me more money then this fix. Thanx in advance for any help.
  • cwtcrcwtcr Member Posts: 1
    I have a 96 bronco, 351W with auto tranny w O/D, the transmission when the motor is warm is stalling when i shift into reverse, once it stalls i can restart it and shift into reverse and it will not stall but the rpm's fluctuate quite a bit from very low to normal. When the engine is cold and rpms are up it operates as normal. It also has stalled on me when i come to a quick stop at a traffic light or something, rpm's just slowly die. But if i brake regularly it is fine, Also it is running fine in any forward gear and no hesitation at any speed. any ideas, thanks
  • flattop4x4flattop4x4 Member Posts: 2
    You might be on the right track, but the u-joints aren't the only thing "IN THE DRIVETRAIN" that will cause that type of vibration. The yoke that ties the trans output shaft to the driveshaft/u-joints has a plastic coating on the splines of the yoke itself. Find a driveshaft rebuild shop and have them get ya a NEW yoke. You wouldn't believe how much difference it makes having that teflon coating, filling in the slack, and dampening road noise!! ;)
  • flattop4x4flattop4x4 Member Posts: 2
    Well I haven't read down through any other possible replies, but I'll offer this question to you. Have you "EVER" replaced the fuel filter? :blush:
  • bronco96kidbronco96kid Member Posts: 1
    I am having the same exact problem, same symptoms and everything. I took it to a shop and the guy ran the codes and said it was an internal tranny problem. I also have a 96 bronco, 351 with auto tranny w O/D. Has anyone figured this problem out yet?
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