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Ford Bronco Problems

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Comments

  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Glad you got that fixed and thanks for the follow up!

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • brocoboy08brocoboy08 Member Posts: 2
    how much force can the leaf springs on my ford broco 2 4x4 withstand
  • brocoboy08brocoboy08 Member Posts: 2
    how much force can the leaf springs on my ford broco 2 4x4 withstand the reason way i was in a car wreck and the person that hit me was supost to be only go 30 and hit me in the side and broke my leaf springs and i realy need to know
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    The leaf springs are designed to support the weight of the vehicle but that would be a vertical force on them. Being hit from the side or rear is a different matter altogether. When you say your leaf springs are broken, do you mean the metal was sheared, torn or otherwise physically split (hard to do) or simply deformed or displaced (relatively easy to do)?

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • miesk5miesk5 Member Posts: 35
    SETER,
    For the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (ECT) - Not the coolant sensor for the TEMPERATURE Gauge...
    See Ryan's Info & Specs
    http://fordfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=28
    -----------
    Ford part Number; in Vehicle Emission Control Information (VECI) for 88 and up, PUK (49 States) Decal, PGP (Canada) Decal, Vacuum Diagrams & Calibration Parts List for 88 & UP - if hot Link does not take you direct; CLICK Quick Guides Scroll to bottom; Provides Vehicle Emission Control Information (VECI) and a related calibration parts list. Enter applicable info (need to know your Calibration number from your B-pillar sticker)
    Source: by Ford motorcraftservice.com
    http://www.motorcraftservice.com/vdirs/retail/default.asp?pageid=&gutsid=

    see my broncolinks.com site for more ECT LINKS incl. location/troubleshooting, DTCs etc.

    Hopefully the Admin won't delete this reply because I posted my site's URL, but there is no way I'd use a lot of bandwidth here to list all possible ECT Info.
    be well!
    Al
  • seterseter Member Posts: 5
    right on
  • jiptwoojiptwoo Member Posts: 1
    motor has no power runs 10-15 mph and oil is pumping out the top of the oil dipstick
  • cthullnercthullner Member Posts: 6
    So, my 78 Bronco's starter, solenoid, battery, clutch and flywheel are less than a year old. When I try to start it, the solenoid clicks, and there's no juice to the starter. Positve battery cable was very hot. Changed the solenoid, and still the same result. Battery has a good charge, and the ignition switch appears to be ok.

    Anbody have a clue?

    Thanks...
  • dannitdannit Member Posts: 1
    I'm looking for a 89" Ford Bronco II Cab Visor. I can't find one locally and I am stuck on getting one. Does anyone know where one can be found; and how I could buy one over the internet from a private seller without getting ripped off. I'm up for any suggestions? Thanks.
  • bigdog16bigdog16 Member Posts: 1
    try changing the gas filter
  • 96eddiebauer96eddiebauer Member Posts: 1
    My parking lights will not shut off, they came on today without turning the lights on.... HELP PLEASE!!!!!!!!!!
  • jeversolljeversoll Member Posts: 17
    My daughters Bronco, the gauge doesnt work and am thinking that the sensor has gone south...

    Where in gods green earth is it located!!! I have no probem finding the one on my Big Block Chevy!!! But can't seem to locate the fords
    sensor.. Please help me insted of going to the dealer and bending over!!! :confuse:
  • jeversolljeversoll Member Posts: 17
    Hey there96 eddie..looks like a new switch is in order...

    That is a fairly easy replacement :)
  • jeversolljeversoll Member Posts: 17
    Daughters 86 Bronco Fuel injected has just started having a high idel

    Any one out there have a clues as to what I should do
    John ;)
  • 92bronconitetx92bronconitetx Member Posts: 4
    I have a 1992 EB 5.0 and the rpm gauge stopped working,now it will idle fine but if I give it gas it seems like it want to die,but doesnt. Any clues?
  • jeversolljeversoll Member Posts: 17
    Have you checked the distributor cap for a crack???
    try and replace the cap and rotor first that is the least expensive
    route. Then we can go on from there. John :)
  • 92bronconitetx92bronconitetx Member Posts: 4
    When the rpm gauge starts working the truck runs fine, could this still be related to the cap and rotor?
  • jeversolljeversoll Member Posts: 17
    In your msg you stated that when the rpms increased the engine would run bad,
    and I suggested to change the cap and rotor. I myself have done this and found a very small crack in the cap.if there is a crack in the cap the electricity will find it's way out of the cap caussing a disturbance in the flow to the other spark plug wires. If this doesn't workI am sorry But it didn't cost you $20.00 :)
  • 92bronconitetx92bronconitetx Member Posts: 4
    Only when the gauge doesn't work does the engine not perform properly, when my gauge is working I can drive it no problem. when the gauge is out if I try and exellerate it shudders and seems like it is going to die(but doesn't) I will try the cap and rotor tomorrow if you think it will help. Like you said 20 bucks no harm no foul.
  • jeversolljeversoll Member Posts: 17
    Hi guys!!!!
    I know that someone out theree in Bronco Land has had this problem....

    My daughters Bronco cuts out after it has been running for ten minuets

    on aceleration... We have replaced the coil thinking it was on the way out
    a fuel sensor thinking the same thing... and a host of other parts..

    Does anyone have that magic answer before I go BROKE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    Thanks John E. in Anaheim Ca :(:D :mad: :cry: :confuse:
  • cthullnercthullner Member Posts: 6
    So, I've got a 78 Bronco Custom, and can't find a gas cap to fit? Have tried both the regular cap as called for, and the California emission cap..no luck with either. Have also tried caps for the 1975- 1980 F-150's....they don't fit either. Have also tried many generic locking caps.....

    ANY SUGGESTIONS?

    Thanks.
  • jeversolljeversoll Member Posts: 17
    My daughter had the same problem with her 86 Bronco, left it at the gas station. We went to Auto Zone and stayed there till they found one that would fit......26 minuets!!!!! she is now having problems with the back window.. New motor for the window and it still doesnt work. I finally checked the wires and have found " No power To the motor" I have new fues s so that is not the problem got a clue
    Strange, I have been answering the questions for a lot of guys out there and no body can answer any of mine
    John
  • jeversolljeversoll Member Posts: 17
    Where in god Green earth, do I find the vacume sensors--

    Ford No Longer makes them and I was thinking that someone
    out there still makes them........... But who and where

    Does anyone have the answer?????

    John in Anaheim
  • 92bronconitetx92bronconitetx Member Posts: 4
    Turns out it was a faulty wire from the tach to the fuze box causing the computer to miss read the rpms..
  • jeversolljeversoll Member Posts: 17
    water temp gauge doesn't work----

    We replaced the temp sending unit

    and still nothing..... Got an idea......Help

    :)
  • deacon2deacon2 Member Posts: 8
    My tailgate window on my 1990 XLT Bronco is stuck up. I've tried pushing in on the gate then lowering, no luck. Any ideas how I can lower the glass to drop the gate and make some of the necessary repairs, ie motor change of test the safety latch. Thanks
  • gtrevinogtrevino Member Posts: 1
    What happens when my gears dont "catch" anymore. I cant put the truck in reverse. What is the fix for this problem. Please help
  • cthullnercthullner Member Posts: 6
    Same thing happened with my 78 Bronco. If it's the same set up as mine, the glass is raised and lowered with an x-beam (arm) inside the tailgate. I can get to this x-beam by removing the 12 or so screws that hold the covering panel on the inside of the tail gate. Not certain if the later model Bronco's have this option?
  • cthullnercthullner Member Posts: 6
    Not much info from you here. Is your Bronco a standard or auto transmission? Your shifter may be done. I'd also check the transmission and then the differentials. Sounds like some gear issues somewhere? Perhaps even a drive-shaft issue?
  • travis12travis12 Member Posts: 2
    i have a 94 bronco and i am getting a code for the airbag the code is 32 i have checked everything that i can think of what could be the problem does anybody know
  • travis12travis12 Member Posts: 2
    sounds like the sinc. rings went out if it is a standerd with the 2.9 and the trans is an fm146 they had an issue with them i had to find another one to fix mine
  • korpinkykorpinky Member Posts: 1
    there's a switch in the locking mech in the driver's side of the tail gate, more than likely that switch went bad. the switch is to keep the window in the tail gate when the gate is down. what you can do is jump the motor, use a 12v power supply, the motor works by reversing the polarity : -+ goes up +- goes down i'm not sure what colors the wires are off hand. if you haven't already remove the carpet, and the pannel, the motor is almost center in the gate find the leads follow them to the conector and pull the conector. with 12v power supply jump the motor if it goes up switch your leads and it should go down. once the window is down open the tail gate, and roll the window out and everything will be able to be serviced. i bypassed the safety switch on bronco, if you do that the only thing you have to worry about is rolling the window out when the tail gate is down.
  • jeversolljeversoll Member Posts: 17
    the switch is a bugger to replace, not as bad as the power
    window motor. I have replaced the motor and it worked great
    Now it stopped working again . The motor works but The lock out switch stopped working. I was told by Ford that they no longer make the switch... I would have to wire it directly ..
    Doesn't sound right//// and as far as rolling the window out when the tail gate is down...It will not happen . that is part of a saftey system
    the tail gate has to be in the closed position for the window to rise.
    :):)
  • jeversolljeversoll Member Posts: 17
    OK,How do you get the back window up. motor is gone south I have tried to jump it --no help= No workie

    I went to ford and they had no answer, other than break the window"

    Get real......

    John E.
  • cthullnercthullner Member Posts: 6
    I have a 1978 Bronco, and just had the same problem. Don't know if your Bronco has the same back window set up as mine? I left the tailgate closed and in the up position, and then removed the interior panel on the tail gate (easy access, and about 12 screws). Inside the gate, the rear window is moved up and down with a metal x-beam. One of these 2 beams was slightly bent, and would not let the window move up or down either manualy or electronically. Straightend out the beam by bending with some pliers. All good now. You should be able to lift and lower the window manualy if you have an acess panel to the gate on the interior portion of the gate.
  • droplever1droplever1 Member Posts: 5
    I had a 93 XLT and had several problems with the back window. The first was just a matter of removing the access panel and putting the nut-bolt-grommet configuration back through the mounting holes at the base of the window and reattaching the x beam track. The second was the motor. It wasn't any fun but I disconnected the glass from the x beam track, lowered the tail gate and slid the glass out far enough to get to the motor. I used a padded chair to support the glass while I replaced the motor. Reconnected the glass and it worked. Eventually the rod at the bottom of the tailgate that actuates the safety switch broke and it would go up with the tailgate down. Before I
    would do ANY of it again I would try to find a replacement tailgate. That's just me though.
    Good luck
  • jeversolljeversoll Member Posts: 17
    I understand Developer.. I have no access to what you are alking about.There is an access pannel but with the window in the down position. ..I have no access to anything.

    Everything is behind the glass, I am almost thinking
    of cutting a hole on the outside. And I don't know wheer you are located but Ecology Auto wrecking in Santa Fe springs always have Bronco s.
    Like I said , The Ford dealer told me to break the window
    and just replace it after fixing the motor. John
  • art20art20 Member Posts: 2
    Did you reach the two wires that are connected to the motor?. There is a connector close to the motor at the bottom of the gate. Try to supply 12 V to them. I´ve got bad contact in this connector. Never failed since I changed it. Find a boy with a thin arm so he can reach the wires and pull them out. Good luck.
  • jeversolljeversoll Member Posts: 17
    Yup,! got the wires and did the 12 volt jump....Nothing...

    I am really thinking of breaking the window" or just buying another rear gate. :(
  • quippianquippian Member Posts: 2
    a friend of mine has a 90 eddie baur edition of the bronco and his real tailgate window wouldnt go back up, he found out that the wiring harness was being pinched by the cable wire not being pushed aside before closing the tailgate, that harness located in the tailgate with the cable leading into the taillightnot only controls the tailgate window, but also controls the power locks and power windows in the vehicle, id check your wire coming out of that harnes into that cable from the tailgate into the taillight to see if any of the wires are damaged.
  • emallory81emallory81 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 78' Bronco with a 460 4speed. Everything other than the brake lights, turn signals and hazards work. I have gone through every fuse with no results. Can someone please help?????
  • outlawnoraoutlawnora Member Posts: 1
    computer says system pass but will not crank...tries just want crank. newly rebuilt motor replaced plug plug wires coil pack distributer, replace throttle body also new battery.new rotor button. getting fuel checked. timing in check. please someone give my husband and son ideas before i put a stick of dynomite in this truck..lol :mad: :cry:
  • jeversolljeversoll Member Posts: 17
    Check the solenoid....

    Check to see if while cranking it is getting spark...

    If it has a module, that might be bad....I just replaced

    the module on my dodge and it starts now.

    John
  • bigdogdaddy1bigdogdaddy1 Member Posts: 1
    I have owned my 89' Bronco XLt for 10 years and it has stopped running on many occasions and at the most inconveniece times. After checking everything, everytime it stopped I replaced the ignition module( attached to stem of Distributor, and installed one from Napa, I have replaced the module form Autozone and other discount places and found that the jello in the back and the tube of mayonnaise given in the box can not handle the heat from the distributor. So the heat will cause the module to short out and when the module is cooled, it will start again... :
  • jeversolljeversoll Member Posts: 17
    93 Bronco Problems.....

    Lat year I attened the bronco meet or Ford car show at Knotts Berry Farm... Funny you should be talking about the problem you are having!!
    I ran into a guy there that had the same prob.

    He made a heat shield for the problem and has never had it happen again.. 1. take a soup can.. 2. cut in half
    3. cut a round hole in it the will fit around and below the Modual. tighten it up and Viola--- heat shiel installed and should have no more problems... Funny what a soup can can do.
  • bigdogdaddybigdogdaddy Member Posts: 7
    You might want to check to lever under the hood to the right behind th ehood hindge. i had the same problem and it could also be th elever switch under the dash , behind the a/c Heater actuater.
  • bigdogdaddybigdogdaddy Member Posts: 7
    The shaking you are refering to is in the fron, where in the front, and does it do this at all speeds, or at different times. It has been a directive of mine that all problems must be taken to at least three shops. If 2 of the shops say the same thing, then you have narrowed it to the problem. But the shaking can also be from having the tires be out of balance, thats why it is important to understand where and when for the vibration.
  • bigdogdaddybigdogdaddy Member Posts: 7
    The is a website called LMC.com. Go through and look through the brochure for your particular truck you will find th epage that has the sensors and vacuum sensors. Any questions , let me know .
  • bigdogdaddybigdogdaddy Member Posts: 7
    Jevelsoll;
    I read your response and Intrigued, now let us adjust this, how do we cut the can, like a half empty can, or top to bottom like a sideways barbecue(55 gal drum laying sideways). then you say to cut a whole in it, is the hole for what reason, and then do you wrap it around the distributor where the module would be place as to have the module not touch the distributor. please advis me,,,Thanks
  • bigdogdaddybigdogdaddy Member Posts: 7
    Apparently from you diagnosis the tires are spread farther out at the bottom farther than the top. This has to do with the alignment. It seems the camber adjustme is out of alignment. So ge the alignment..
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