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Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • smily1smily1 Member Posts: 104
    I own a 98 explorer with the V8. I change the oil every 5k miles. I loose maybe 1/4 of a quart during these intervals. I agree with mazman. There has to be something wrong.
  • swschradswschrad Member Posts: 2,171
    I have the 5.0 V8 in a 2000 explorer, and have never had to add between oil changes on 3000 mile intervals. I have never seen the oil level more than a half quart below full, either, in almost 20,000 miles. that swn1-relative's engine was either not broken in per manual (which is actually rather generous), or it's leaking internally or externally. for that matter, the only engine I've ever had that used oil like that was before I traded my 1990 Ranger 2.3L-four, with a leaky rear seal that darned near sprayed bystanders.
  • gasburnergasburner Member Posts: 31
    I have a 99 XLT that is just over 2 yrs. old. I have a couple minor things I've noticed and was wondering if anybody was in the same boat. I also wanted to prvide some general impressions after two years of ownership.

    The other day I noticed that the black paint on the metal part of the roof rack was peeling off. It seems like it starts off in the track and works its way outward where it is visible. Anyone else notice this?

    Another item I noticed is that the driver's side folding rear seat feels loose if you sit in it and push down on the floor with your feet. I'm really never in the back so I don't know if it was like that since day one or if my 60 lb. 5-year old was too much for it. I tried tightening the floor bolts but they were not the problem. It seems like it is in the folding mechanism, and I see nothing that I can tighten. Anybody have any input?

    When closing the glass liftgate about 1/4 the time it makes a loud pop just before it reaches the closed position. I've looked all over and can't seem to find the cause, but the bolts are showing rust. The noise is just not consistent. (nope not the wire to the defroster)

    As far as door rattles, don't get me started. I've got mine in the passenger door. I've brought mine to the dealer 5 times already and they have been unable to fix it. On mine its not the door latch post but something internal to the door mechanism (I know I've tried adjusting the post). The best that the dealer's done is stop the rattle for a few weeks; then it comes back. The bad part is each time it take it in, the truck comes back worse then it went in with scratches in the paint and plastic and the door liner not tightly attached. I think I'll give another dealer (maybe a Lincoln/Mercury dealer) one more shot at fixing it before my warranty expires. Another thing about the front doors is if you pull the inside door handles more that half way to open the door, when you let them return back to normal they make a Pop noise. It doesn't seem like it affects the latch operation, but it is just something you hate to hear and don't know how it will affect the latch in the long run. By the way the dealer couldn't solve this noise either. But of course changed some parts and charged Ford for it.

    Overall the truck has run well; no problems with the V8. At first I'd be about 1/2 quart down when time for an oil change, but as it ages it seems like it might be buring less oil per change interval, maybe 1/4 quart. In my assessment the weak parts of the truck might be: 1) the suspension which is starting to make some noise when turning over bumps and 2) the hoor and hatch hardware. The strong suits include: 1) the engine, great pickup on the highway, tows my boat with ease and 2) the breaks, good stopping power, but very loud and grabby right before stoping. I also find that the 16" tires improve the ride and handling. BTW - I changed the Deathstones for Michelin LTX M/S and think the handling and wet road traction improved, but haven't noticed any reductin in traction pulling a trailer out of the water. Can't tell you about snow because it just don't snow in south Louisiana.

    Mazman I've seen you've posted some good ideas, do you have any of these same issues? How about anybody else?
  • swschradswschrad Member Posts: 2,171
    sounds about right, except I don't have any door noises in my 2000 limited. there have been posts in the past about the seat frame having some sour rivets in it... I have a little click there, but the seat is motored up almost to the top, and it is intermittent and has not gotten worse in the two years. that engine dates to the 1970s and is solid indeed. I always seem to get (or hear) suspension squeaks that respond nicely to a little heavy spray grease or heavy silicone in the bushings, and that includes GMs as well as Fords. no sign of paint problems on the roof rack, either.
  • swn1swn1 Member Posts: 27
    I have a '99 XLT and had my roof rack replaced for the exact same thing you are seeing. Don't let them talk you out of it, of course by the sounds of your dealer you may end up with a couple of extra holes in the roof. I'm lucky to have a great dealer but they can only do so much. I'd rather have a lousy dealer and good vehicle but you can't win them all. I have many squeaks, rattles, pops and the like and have given up on fixing them. Keep a check on your differental seals. My front one went and learned this is not uncommon.

    Thanks to everyone for the comments on the oil usage for my in-laws Mountaineer. I am waiting to hear from Ford for the specs that show this and why it "uses" so much but I think the prize patrol will show up first.
  • mazman1mazman1 Member Posts: 229
    A lot of the noises that you hear from the doors or hatches either opening or closing can be relieved by proper lubrication of the parts. Any decent mechanic should be able to do that.

    The roof rack is made of painted aluminum. The rust usually makes the black paint fall off first, then you get a white powder. The quick solution is to get the rack replaced while it is under warranty.

    As far as the door rattles, apart from the pathetic dealer service departments, there are many parts insde the door that can come loose. The problem with the door on my 2000 was that the door lock post was too far out, so that the mechanism closed around it before the door was properly sealed in the opening, making the whole thing rattle. I would have another mechanic look at it and maybe speak with the dealer's shop foreman... to show your concern for the problem and that you want this to be resolved. Also, you may want to bring up the other "collateral" damage to your vehicle.

    Good luck.
  • bioman3bioman3 Member Posts: 37
    My 99 XLT has given me pretty good service. My roof rack is scratched from use, but I do not have a paint peeling problem. As other have suggested, get the dealer to replace it before the warrenty runs out. Regarding the noise you get when you open & close the glass liftgate, try some WD 40 at the ball & Socket joints of the support cylinders. If the cylinders are not bent or out of alignment, this should do the job. I had this problem and the WD 40 provided an effective cure. What probably happens is that the cylinder support is binding in the ball mounted on the liftgate and/or the glass. The clicking noise is what you hear when the ball finally begins to move when enough energy is applied. After you apply the WD 40 make sure you wipe off any excess spray from the liftgate and the glass. Yes, the Explorer has problems, but compared to the Blazer/Jimmy it is a masterpiece. I know I had a 95 Jimmy, Truck of the Year, and I could write volumes about sloppy workmanship, poor design, cheap parts, etc.
  • njdevilsrnnjdevilsrn Member Posts: 185
    I know I read in one of the boards a few weeks ago some questions about waxes. Just to let you know, I recently switched from Meguiar's Gold Class to 3M Cleaner Wax. What a difference! The 3M product removed all the swirl marks off my truck, it looks new! I will let you all know how it holds up in terms of durability, but the shine is amazing.
  • mazman1mazman1 Member Posts: 229
    Yes, the 3M product is far superior to Meguiars. Actually, I think saliva is better than Meguiars. In 20 years of car ownership, I have used turtlewax, raindance, Meguiars, zipwax, Gliptone, and I prefer the Mother's 3 step with an added 4th step of the 3M glaze. It adds a great smooth finish with no swirls, and although it is a lot to apply, it lasts the entire summer.

    Enjoy.
  • dixaronedixarone Member Posts: 21
    Hi guys, been looking at the past posts, especially from mazman and ryster regarding the noises coming from their vehicles. My '97 Explorer developed a popping noise coming from the front passenger dash corner/front passenger door area.

    The strange part about this noise (and it is a very definite popping or clucking sound) is that it only occurs when the vehicle has been warmed by the sun. I haven't heard anything in the past few weeks since the weather has turned, and prior to that, I would never hear anything on my drive to work in the morning, only on the way home after the vehicle had sat in the sun all or part of the day.

    To my way of thinking, this is strange, as parts should generally expand as they are heated, decreasing the likelihood of rattles and pops, no?

    From the outside of the vehicle, I can press down on the corner of the plastic tray enclosing the wiper fluid sprays, and sometimes get the noise to happen. This tray looks to be slightly misaligned, but I had the dealer take it off and check the seating of the windshield, and they indicated all was good.

    If I open the passenger door all the way, with a slight jarring movement at the end of it's extension, I can also sometimes get the sound to happen.

    It really sounds like it's coming from the dash when you're inside the vehicle though.

    Any bright ideas from past posters would be helpful, although it seems as though I probably won't be hearing this (very irritating) noise again until Spring...

    Thanks.
  • fsujayfsujay Member Posts: 1
    Anyone having a problem with the information panel on the EB stereo? I have a 98 EB and have a problem with the information lights on the stereo head (track #, radio station, etc) fading in and out. It's and intermitant problem and sometimes they don't come on at all.

    Thanks
  • smily1smily1 Member Posts: 104
    Just had my stereo display black out on me last week on my 98 XLT. The next day I drove it to the dealership and within 50ft of parking the display came back on. Rather annoyed I complained anyway. The service advisor told me that its a known problem and they just send the entire stereo in for replacement or repair. Three days later and a $50 deductible from my extended warranty I received my stereo in good working order.
  • tigerjon1tigerjon1 Member Posts: 26
    We recently had a local dealership order the model we want and are looking forward to receiving it. Can anyone give us their thoughts on this model if they have one. Thanks.
  • 02discovery02discovery Member Posts: 47
    A dear friend and neighbor of ours just bought a black, 1996 Ford Explorer. She was not given the code for the keyless entry. If someone could please tell me where the little black box is, the one that operates the keyless entry, the one that has the sticker with the codes on it, we would appreciate it greatly. I know about this method of securing the codes because I have purchased a couple of other Ford vehicles and have been in the same situation.
    Thanks,
    02 Discovery
  • intenseriderintenserider Member Posts: 1
    I have a 99 Eddie Bauer with the V8 and about 68K miles. We recently began experiencing difficulty when starting the vehicle. The engine will turn over, but will not idle. It is not a consistent problem, so I initially thought the fuel line might be clogged. After having all filters replaced and the fuel-injector cleaned, it is only getting worse. Oddly enough, my parents own a 2000 Windstar which began having similar problems. After calling a tow truck today to haul it to the local Ford dealer, the driver informed them that theirs was the 19th Ford that he has towed recently with the same problem. Talk about serendipity! Additionally, I have read on this site that other owners have experienced the radio blacking out. Ours went out a few weeks ago, and after checking the fuses, I still have not been able to pinpoint the problem. To top things off, we went to the dealer today to look at a 2002 Explorer and they offered us a stellar $11,700 for ours. Keep in mind that this is a loaded 99 EB w/V8. With a resale value like that, what is the incentive to purchase another Ford?! Any thoughts on the idling problem or my other rants would be greatly appreciated.
  • swschradswschrad Member Posts: 2,171
    smells like almost certainly a sensor (crank position?) or the computer box. being intermittent, I would take apart all the inline cable connectors, clean 'em up, and put a little dielectric grease on the contacts and gasket before putting them back together.
  • mlayton694mlayton694 Member Posts: 45
    I had the same EXACT problem, except with me it was with my 00 XLT , 6 Cyl SOHC. I ended up selling the POS (took a beating like you might). Never diagnosed what the problem was, but i only had 40k miles. I wasn;t about to pay any dealer one red cent to fix this. Besides this, I had the ball joint seal lubed about 5 times because of a wretched squealing since 5k, rear wiper never worked after 5k miles, and of course the Firestone tire debacle and 2 other recalls for different things. The Explorer to me was truly an Exploder. If you can afford it, sit yourself in a another vehicle not a Ford.
  • bmwk75bmwk75 Member Posts: 1
    I've gone back through this discussion and have not found any comments on broken heater blend- doors. This is rather unusual as I saw several posts on Google about this and the dealer said that this problem is showing up a lot more often.

    Anyway, on with the story. I have a 97 4x4 XLT with the 4.0 SOHC with 55,000 miles. A few weeks ago it finally became cold enough outside to turn the heater on for the first time of the year... and not a hint of warm air came out the vents. Not even slightly warm.

    First I thought the thermostat might have failed, but the temp gauge was reporting that the engine temperature was in the normal range. I took it to the Ford dealer who was so busy he couldn't look at it for several days. I asked if he could recommend anyone who might be able to look at it that day and he said, "Sure, the Lincoln-Mercury dealer down the street can probably look at it right now."

    Off I went to the Lincoln dealer, and sure enough they had were able to get it in right away. The service writer called me at work about an hour later and said that he had some bad news. He said the plastic heater blend door had cracked and although the part required to fix it was only $150.00, it required the complete removal of the dash and with the labor it would cost $1,000.00!!!

    They said that they had seen a couple of Mountaineers with this problem in the last year. I told them NOT to fix it, (I can buy a hell of a nice down parka for less than a grand) and that I would pick it up after I got off work.

    All this after the cam-chain tensioner problem I went through, the tire fiasco, and the fact that my vehicle has fallen about SIX GRAND in value over the last year. I was livid. I decided that I would tear the dash apart myself over Thanksgiving week and see if I could fix it.

    Then about an hour later the Lincoln service writer called me back and told me that they had some kind of program called the "non warranty assistance program". He told me that while Ford was not covering this problem under a warranty extension (like the cam-chain tensioner problem) he had judged that my problem could be covered by this "new" program. He added that I would be responsible for a co-pay (or a kind of deductable) of $150.00. "Would I be interested?", he asked.

    Of course I'm interested. $1,000.00 or $150.00. SIGN ME UP!!! I even told him to change the tranny fluid, the oil, and some other maintenence items. Yaaa hoooooo!!! After 20 years of Hondas I swore that the Exploder would be the last time I wandered from the big "H", but now since Ford sent me a check to pay for my Michelins and stepped up to the plate on this blend door, I might (emphasis on "might") consider another Ford.
    (Or a Lincoln-Mercury... good thing my Ford dealer was so busy that day. They're complete jerks and would have never taken the time to use this program). Anyway... picked it up two days later...paid my $150.00 co-pay... heater works like a champ... and I'm happy again. For now.

    Hope this helps anyone with a similar problem.
  • nellcoopnellcoop Member Posts: 30
    Thanks Steve for the post about the legal letter I received. And regarding the tire maker themselves. After owning a Explorer in CT with "THE" deathstone's on it and visible tread separation, we just bought our second Suburban and they come standard with Firestone Wilderness LE's. They are the WORST performing tires, set aside the fact that we had the separation on them on our old Explorer here in the Northeast. We wanted no part of their products. I live in Northwest CT and needed a better tire. With this Suburban purchase we refused the Firestone tires as part of the deal and switched them out for Michellin's. There is a huge difference in how the car corners, handles, and it will do so much better in the snow. Very happy not to have Firestones.
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    bmwk,

    $1,000?? Man, talk about woes!

    tidester
    Host
    SUVs
  • swschradswschrad Member Posts: 2,171
    I have heard the same song before... the l/m dealer has a time slot in the shop and got the repair done cleanly and with no muss or fuss... when the ford dealer couldn't. I have not had any issues with my ford dealer service myself, so haven't taken that route.

    it's probably the same song with olds/caddy dealer service vs chevy service... the customer paid the extra X thousand for the car on the same chassis, and the dealer has upgraded their operation to hold the customers and make them loyal. if your ford dealer is not satisfactory, try the other guy.
  • mazman1mazman1 Member Posts: 229
    Hi Guys. I had to have the timing chain tensioners changed again on my 2000 Explorer because the first upgrade under warranty did not last. The dieseling sound is gone, but I notice that the accelleration is gone as well. The truck can still get up to 75mph, but not as quickly as before. Merging onto highways is not as easy as before... in fact it is downright scary.

    Has anyone else experienced this? Was it resolved?
    Thanks!
  • rysterryster Member Posts: 571
    Well, my Explorer has been at the dealer for a week now having the popping noise in the driver's door repaired.

    I checked with the dealer today, and they said they called Ford and Ford has had some reports of the noise on other trucks. Ford instructed the dealer to do some spot welding in specific locations to eliminate the noise. I may have the truck back by end of week. I'll let you know how it goes.

    In the meantime, I am driving a '00 Taurus SE loaner. I am getting used to it. Hated it at first, but it has grown on me. Maybe if the truck doesn't get fixed I will just trade it for a Taurus or Sable (or try the lemon law; a lemon law lawyer told me I have a case should I decide to go that route, but it could take 5 weeks to 6 months to get it returned as a lemon).

    Does anyone know how the lemon law works? I assume should the truck be found to be a lemon, Ford would take the truck back and refund a prorated value of the truck. Does that value get applied against my loan balance, with the difference applied to a new vehicle of my choice (any Ford product, I guess)? Just curious how that works..
  • jazzy8jazzy8 Member Posts: 11
    This same problem happened to my father's 96 EB. He had it fixed for around $900 at the Ford Dealer. They mentioned nothing about the warranty assistance program, and he has called Ford since then...to no avail.
    The question is this bmwk75 - did they make you fill out a form? Are there any phone numbers you can call to get help -
    What;s the name of the dealership where they gave you this information.

    Thanks
  • mazman1mazman1 Member Posts: 229
    The "lemon law" is different for each state.. the best way to find out your rights is to talk with an attorney. If you are not at that stage yet, but still want to research it, I bet the place to start is at your state's attorney general's website.

    I do not personally have experience with lemon law vehicles in NY state, but i do know that it can take a while to process, and does go to arbitration rather than the courts. In NY state, there is a 2 year time limit on discovering the problem, and another limit (I am not sure) for attempts at resolution.

    Good luck, either way you decide.
  • bioman3bioman3 Member Posts: 37
    Hi Ryster,

    Check out the NY Lemon Law info below. There is a lot of info about the law on the WWW. I had this info on my computer so I'm passing it on to you

    Bioman

    WHAT IS THE MANUFACTURER'S DUTY TO REPAIR?

    With respect to those covered cars sold and registered in New York, the law imposes a duty upon the manufacturer to repair, free of charge and without any deductible, any defect covered by warranty, if the consumer notifies the manufacturer or its authorized dealer of such defect within the first 18,000 miles of operation or two years from the original delivery date, whichever comes first. Once timely notice of the defect is given, the manufacturer may not charge for the repairs, regardless of when the repairs are performed. Any consumer who has been charged for such repairs or a deductible during such period should contact the Attorney General's office.
    WHAT SHOULD CONSUMERS DO IF THEY BECOME AWARE OF A PROBLEM WITH THEIR CAR?

    The consumer should immediately report any defect or "condition" either directly to the manufacturer or to its authorized dealer. A "condition" is a general problem, such as a difficulty in starting, repeated stalling, or a malfunctioning transmission, that can result from a defect of one or more parts. If the consumer reports the problem to the dealer, the law requires the dealer to forward written notice to the manufacturer within seven days. Under the law, notice to the dealer is considered notice to the manufacturer. Unless otherwise advised by their lawyer, consumers should continue to make their monthly payments if the car is financed or leased. Failure to do so may result in a repossession which may adversely affect a consumer's lemon law rights.
    WHAT SHOULD A CONSUMER DO IF THE DEALER REFUSES TO MAKE REPAIRS?
    If the dealer refuses to make repairs within seven days of receiving notice from the consumer, the consumer should immediately notify the manufacturer in writing, by certified mail, return receipt requested, of the car's problem and that the dealer has refused to make repairs. A sample notice to the manufacturer may be found in this book.
    WHAT MUST THE MANUFACTURER DO UPON RECEIPT OF THE CONSUMER'S NOTICE OF THE DEALER'S REFUSAL TO MAKE REPAIRS?

    The manufacturer or its authorized dealer must commence repairs within 20 days from receipt of the consumer's notice of the dealer's refusal to make repairs.
    WHAT ARE A CONSUMER'S RIGHTS IF THE MANUFACTURER DOES NOT MEET ITS DUTY TO REPAIR?

    If the problem is not repaired after a reasonable number of attempts, or the manufacturer or the dealer refuses to commence repairs within 20 days from the manufacturer's receipt of the "refusal to repair" notice from the consumer, and if the problem substantially impairs the value of the car to the consumer, the manufac- turer, at the consumer's option, must either refund the full purchase or lease price, or offer a comparable replacement car.
    DOES THE LAW SPECIFY THE NUMBER OF REQUIRED REPAIR ATTEMPTS?

    It is presumed that there have been a reasonable number of attempts to repair a problem if, during the first 18,000 miles of operation or two years from the original delivery date, whichever comes first, either: (1) the same problem has been subject to repair four or more times and the problem continues to exist; or (2) the car is out of service by reason of repair of one or more problems for a cumulative total of 30 or more calendar days and the problem continues to exist.
    WHAT SPECIAL NOTIFICATION REQUIREMENTS EXIST FOR MOTOR HOME OWNERS?

    The law imposes special notification requirements for motor homes which are designed to afford motor home manufacturers one final chance to repair the defect before consumers can take advantage of the remedies offered by the lemon law. If the motor home was subject to three repair attempts or was out of service by reason of repair for 21 days, whichever occurs first, the consumer must report such fact to the manufacturer or its authorized dealer by certified mail, return receipt requested, before seeking arbitration or commencing a lawsuit under the lemon law.
  • rysterryster Member Posts: 571
    Hi!

    Thanks for the responses re: the Lemon Law. In my state, you have the first 12 months or 12,000 miles to report and attempt to get a problem fixed. Unfortunately I didn't report my problem until 13,011 miles (it was only the 9th month ownership) so I am not eligible for the lemon law :(

    However, the dealer still has my truck. Tomorrow will be day 14. If I do not get it back by end of the week, I am going to go talk with my salesperson about some kind of "deal". Maybe ask for fair MARKET value for the Explorer and trade for an '02 Taurus or other Ford product. Maybe the dealership could contact Ford and get approval for some kind of adjustment in lieu of getting a vehicle labeled as a "lemon". It's worth a shot and I have heard of dealers/manufacturers making such arrangements for customers.

    Thanks!
    ryster
  • teoteo Member Posts: 2,508
    Why would you go for another Ford product?
  • swschradswschrad Member Posts: 2,171
    he wants one that squeaks in HIS key, so he can sing along?
  • tigerjon1tigerjon1 Member Posts: 26
    I recently saw the crash test results for the 2002. Not pretty. I may have read it wrong but from what I could understand, any accident over 5 mph will result in roughly $6000 in repairs. Sounds hard to beleive but the way car makers jack up prices on parts, not to mention the cost for labor, it could be true.
  • swschradswschrad Member Posts: 2,171
    there should be a federal law that you can't call it a "bumper" if it can't stand being bumped. the alternative would be, IMHO, to call it a "freakin' endless black hole for all your money."

    that would look real good on the sales brochures and window stickers...

    "... the 2003 Ford Evacuation, with room enough for the whole town and power enough to tow it all along behind you, comes with color-coordinated freakin' endless black holes for all your money on both front and rear..."

    I'd rather just have a big ol' piece of railroad iron hanging out there 5 inches or so from the sheet metal, and let everybody else beware. but maybe it's only my personal religion, and nobody else thinks twice about a royal ripoff over "bumpers."
  • smily1smily1 Member Posts: 104
    I agree. I have a 68 firebird that has gone through 2 accidents inflicting major damage to other vehicles but sustaining zero! Nada! Not so much as a dent! Wish they could build them the way they used to.
  • tigerjon1tigerjon1 Member Posts: 26
    Swschrad, After reading your posting I'm rolling on the floor. That is great! I agree brother.
  • rysterryster Member Posts: 571
    It's not that I actually want another Ford product, it just that I am sure they would stipulate a condition that they would buy the truck back provided I get another Ford product. I can understand that. If it is financed through Ford credit, then they would be paying off the loan and getting their truck back. If I turn around and spend the money at Ford, they end up benefiting from the situation.

    Besides, a high-end Taurus or Mustang GT would be okay to me.
  • rysterryster Member Posts: 571
    Well, the dealer informed me my truck is ready and has been completely fixed (the popping noise in the door is supposedly gone).

    They said the body seams in the B-Pillar were loose. They said they fixed them such that they will never be loose again. When asked why this happened, they said most likely the seams were not properly assembled at the factory and loosened up. That's real confidence inspiring.

    I am picking it up tomorrow morning, so I am anxious to see if it truly is resolved.
  • swschradswschrad Member Posts: 2,171
    be interesting to have reposts on here from the rattlin' gang saying again which vehicle and which plant (maybe even which production date if known) turned 'em out. if the whole run of trucks was no darned good, that would be one thing, and we'd all know about it already, it would have driven the anthrax off the evening news, if not Bin Looney himself. if all the issues are around the pillar on the drivers side, I'm betting one plant had a sour welding robot for a few weeks while the main robot wrangler was off on vacation or something.
  • rysterryster Member Posts: 571
    Got my Explorer back yesterday, and the popping noise has been eliminated. The dealer "welded and repositioned B pillar, refinished B pillar, resecured two body seams at B pillar, and road tested several times." This seems to have done the trick. My truck was built 5/16/00, and I bought it 11/21/00; it had 27 miles on it when I picked it up. I will see which plant built it and respond later this weekend. It is a loaded '00 XLS 4x4. It would be interesting to see if our trucks were built at the same factory within a specific time frame...
  • rysterryster Member Posts: 571
    was built in St. Louis (as a follow up to my previous post).
  • newxmannewxman Member Posts: 3
    I just purchased a 2000 Explorer Limited. I am new to the SUV market and therefore not sure if what I am experiencing is normal or not. It has the 4.0L SOHC V6 with Auto O/D tranny. The question is is it normal for the RPM to be about 2600 @ 70MPH, 2800 @ 75, and 3000 @ 80? That seems very high at least compared to my wife car, a 1997 Buick Park Ave w/3.8L auto which shows only 2300RPM @ 80MPH. Thanks. NewXman
  • swschradswschrad Member Posts: 2,171
    I have what I have assumed is a seat squeak in my mid-February St. Louis built explorer limited, after I have that attended to I will know if it's really the seat rivet issue or if there are weld problems on the body pillar. probably be a couple months or so, however, as I have some other issues I have to work on first.

    it would seem that a flappy body support pillar without enough reinforcement (provided by welding the bent pieces on that go the other way) might be a safety cage issue. maybe those ought to be reported to NHTSA.
  • rysterryster Member Posts: 571
    Best of luck with your Explorer. I don't know if reporting my B-Pillar problem to NHTSA is necessary. If anything, the safety cage is stronger now than it was when new. But, if there were some quality control issues at the factory there is a potential for other Explorers with body seam/welding issues.I was certainly glad to get my truck back. The dealer had it for 17 days. Hopefully your dealer can resolve your problem quicker than that.
  • lmacmillmacmil Member Posts: 1,758
    That's about the same as my 1996 with the old V6. The SUV has a higher (lower numeric) axle ratio than your typical pass car. My Old Intrigue runs about 2000 rpm @70 mph.
  • gregb882gregb882 Member Posts: 75
    I have a 2002 Explorer with V-6, 5-Spd auto 4X4 and the 3.73 rear end (came with the optional trailer towing pkg.) At 80 MPH I am at 2600RPM. If I drop it out of overdrive, I get about 3200 RPM. I don't know if the 2002 drivetrain is the same as yours, but I hope this helps. Perhaps (with the standard rear end) your higher RPM indicates a problem with the overdrive kicking in? I hope not!
  • brophbroph Member Posts: 85
    I was curious if anyone knew how difficult it would be to swap the 4.0L v6 OHC (pre '96) for 5.0L v8. Does the tranny & rearend match up? or would they have to be changed too.

    Also, has anyone had support problems with their seats? I have a '96 and it seems that the support around the left leg gave out. I have owned this Explorer for a year + & like it alot. It has 108K on it (previous rental). If anyone has had similar problems, I would appreciate any input.

    Thanks

    Tom
  • dohc32vdohc32v Member Posts: 60
    >>>>I was curious if anyone knew how difficult it would be to swap the 4.0L v6 OHC (pre '96) for 5.0L v8. Does the tranny & rearend match up? or would they have to be changed too.<<<<<

    My guess would be that if you were to make this swap, you would want to do an engine/tranny swap, as one unit and then just cut the tail shaft to fit. I can tell you that the exhaust system, especially the exhaust manifolds on the 5.0 Explorers appears to be a plumbers nightmare. (That could be further complicated because I have an AWD unit.) I'm certain you could make it fit, but I suspect that it would be helpful if you had a brother that was proficient with a cutting torch and a welding rig. That 5.0 unit does fill up the engine compartment of the Explorer. If I were to guess, I'd say you would be money ahead just buying a late model V-8 Explorer, rather than trying to cobble one together. I also suspect that the front suspension system is probably beefier for a V-8 than it is for a V-6, which would necessiate further change.

    >>>>>Also, has anyone had support problems with their seats? I have a '96 and it seems that the support around the left leg gave out. <<<<<

    Power or manual seat? Driver or passengers side? I haven't had any problem with mine (which is a power operated unit).
  • g159g159 Member Posts: 23
    V8 become optional in 1996, first only in rwd, then in awd. The switch to the sla suspension in 1995 made the first part of this change possible.
    However the v8s caused further change to the metal body frame around the transmission hump, because a bigger transmission from the thunderbird had to be adopted to handle the v8 torque. (so you really need the tbird tranny) I do not know if all explorers were modified to the bigger hump, but they probably all were for easier building. Next, the v8 was not available with the control trac 4wd because it was larger than the smaller awd transfer case. I don't know if you have 2wd or 4wd, but as you can see the 4wd would have to be switched to awd. Next the venerable v8 had to have special headers that have a special angle to fit. Also the radiator had to get a slim "pancake" clutch to fit. Overall, it is a tight fit. I wouldn't recommend the swap. I would try to trade.
  • tigerjon1tigerjon1 Member Posts: 26
    gregb882, Your the first I've seen here with a 2002 XLT. How do you like it? Ours is expected to arrive in about a week. Nothing fancy. V-6 w/trailer/tow, premium sound, and boards. I understand the independent rear suspension is great.
  • gregb882gregb882 Member Posts: 75
    This is my first Ford and I have to admit I'm impressed so far. If your's is an XLT, it sounds like the same equipment that I got. My other vehicle is a 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee which I liked a lot until I got the Explorer. It's very stable, has good power (not a hot-rod, but good) and very comfortable - for an SUV. I only have 2400 miles on it so I can't speak to the reliability, but so far it's great. I read on another board where the off-road crowd is upset at Ford for using the independent rear suspension - they say it won't be a good off-road vehicle anymore. The joke in my family is that my wife won't let her JGC on dirt roads let alone off-roads!

    BTW, you can program your own extra keys once you have the dealer cut them (they cost $20 to $25 each). Don't let the dealer tell you that they have to do the programming for a mere $70!

    I noticed that you had an earlier thread regarding the high cost of the Explorer bumpers in the low speed impact tests. I just heard today that the Insurance Institute awarded the 2002 Explorer their highest rating for crash worthiness. Sounds like Ford got that part right.

    Good luck!
  • newxmannewxman Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for the reply. My 4x4 SOHC V6 may have the 3.55 axle. It is in Overdrive. I'll have to check it without O/D on. Do you know if there is any difference in the shift selector between 4 Speed auto and 5 speed auto? My selector has D 2 1.
  • brophbroph Member Posts: 85
    Thanks for the input. it would be wiser to get a v8 already put together rather than try and make one. cheaper too.

    dohc32v - the seat is a manual slide & on the driver side. use to be a rental, i suppose a lotta cheeks have smiled on this one. checked out salvage yards - best price $75

    thanks

    tom
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