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Comments
The other day I noticed that the black paint on the metal part of the roof rack was peeling off. It seems like it starts off in the track and works its way outward where it is visible. Anyone else notice this?
Another item I noticed is that the driver's side folding rear seat feels loose if you sit in it and push down on the floor with your feet. I'm really never in the back so I don't know if it was like that since day one or if my 60 lb. 5-year old was too much for it. I tried tightening the floor bolts but they were not the problem. It seems like it is in the folding mechanism, and I see nothing that I can tighten. Anybody have any input?
When closing the glass liftgate about 1/4 the time it makes a loud pop just before it reaches the closed position. I've looked all over and can't seem to find the cause, but the bolts are showing rust. The noise is just not consistent. (nope not the wire to the defroster)
As far as door rattles, don't get me started. I've got mine in the passenger door. I've brought mine to the dealer 5 times already and they have been unable to fix it. On mine its not the door latch post but something internal to the door mechanism (I know I've tried adjusting the post). The best that the dealer's done is stop the rattle for a few weeks; then it comes back. The bad part is each time it take it in, the truck comes back worse then it went in with scratches in the paint and plastic and the door liner not tightly attached. I think I'll give another dealer (maybe a Lincoln/Mercury dealer) one more shot at fixing it before my warranty expires. Another thing about the front doors is if you pull the inside door handles more that half way to open the door, when you let them return back to normal they make a Pop noise. It doesn't seem like it affects the latch operation, but it is just something you hate to hear and don't know how it will affect the latch in the long run. By the way the dealer couldn't solve this noise either. But of course changed some parts and charged Ford for it.
Overall the truck has run well; no problems with the V8. At first I'd be about 1/2 quart down when time for an oil change, but as it ages it seems like it might be buring less oil per change interval, maybe 1/4 quart. In my assessment the weak parts of the truck might be: 1) the suspension which is starting to make some noise when turning over bumps and 2) the hoor and hatch hardware. The strong suits include: 1) the engine, great pickup on the highway, tows my boat with ease and 2) the breaks, good stopping power, but very loud and grabby right before stoping. I also find that the 16" tires improve the ride and handling. BTW - I changed the Deathstones for Michelin LTX M/S and think the handling and wet road traction improved, but haven't noticed any reductin in traction pulling a trailer out of the water. Can't tell you about snow because it just don't snow in south Louisiana.
Mazman I've seen you've posted some good ideas, do you have any of these same issues? How about anybody else?
Thanks to everyone for the comments on the oil usage for my in-laws Mountaineer. I am waiting to hear from Ford for the specs that show this and why it "uses" so much but I think the prize patrol will show up first.
The roof rack is made of painted aluminum. The rust usually makes the black paint fall off first, then you get a white powder. The quick solution is to get the rack replaced while it is under warranty.
As far as the door rattles, apart from the pathetic dealer service departments, there are many parts insde the door that can come loose. The problem with the door on my 2000 was that the door lock post was too far out, so that the mechanism closed around it before the door was properly sealed in the opening, making the whole thing rattle. I would have another mechanic look at it and maybe speak with the dealer's shop foreman... to show your concern for the problem and that you want this to be resolved. Also, you may want to bring up the other "collateral" damage to your vehicle.
Good luck.
Enjoy.
The strange part about this noise (and it is a very definite popping or clucking sound) is that it only occurs when the vehicle has been warmed by the sun. I haven't heard anything in the past few weeks since the weather has turned, and prior to that, I would never hear anything on my drive to work in the morning, only on the way home after the vehicle had sat in the sun all or part of the day.
To my way of thinking, this is strange, as parts should generally expand as they are heated, decreasing the likelihood of rattles and pops, no?
From the outside of the vehicle, I can press down on the corner of the plastic tray enclosing the wiper fluid sprays, and sometimes get the noise to happen. This tray looks to be slightly misaligned, but I had the dealer take it off and check the seating of the windshield, and they indicated all was good.
If I open the passenger door all the way, with a slight jarring movement at the end of it's extension, I can also sometimes get the sound to happen.
It really sounds like it's coming from the dash when you're inside the vehicle though.
Any bright ideas from past posters would be helpful, although it seems as though I probably won't be hearing this (very irritating) noise again until Spring...
Thanks.
Thanks
Thanks,
02 Discovery
Anyway, on with the story. I have a 97 4x4 XLT with the 4.0 SOHC with 55,000 miles. A few weeks ago it finally became cold enough outside to turn the heater on for the first time of the year... and not a hint of warm air came out the vents. Not even slightly warm.
First I thought the thermostat might have failed, but the temp gauge was reporting that the engine temperature was in the normal range. I took it to the Ford dealer who was so busy he couldn't look at it for several days. I asked if he could recommend anyone who might be able to look at it that day and he said, "Sure, the Lincoln-Mercury dealer down the street can probably look at it right now."
Off I went to the Lincoln dealer, and sure enough they had were able to get it in right away. The service writer called me at work about an hour later and said that he had some bad news. He said the plastic heater blend door had cracked and although the part required to fix it was only $150.00, it required the complete removal of the dash and with the labor it would cost $1,000.00!!!
They said that they had seen a couple of Mountaineers with this problem in the last year. I told them NOT to fix it, (I can buy a hell of a nice down parka for less than a grand) and that I would pick it up after I got off work.
All this after the cam-chain tensioner problem I went through, the tire fiasco, and the fact that my vehicle has fallen about SIX GRAND in value over the last year. I was livid. I decided that I would tear the dash apart myself over Thanksgiving week and see if I could fix it.
Then about an hour later the Lincoln service writer called me back and told me that they had some kind of program called the "non warranty assistance program". He told me that while Ford was not covering this problem under a warranty extension (like the cam-chain tensioner problem) he had judged that my problem could be covered by this "new" program. He added that I would be responsible for a co-pay (or a kind of deductable) of $150.00. "Would I be interested?", he asked.
Of course I'm interested. $1,000.00 or $150.00. SIGN ME UP!!! I even told him to change the tranny fluid, the oil, and some other maintenence items. Yaaa hoooooo!!! After 20 years of Hondas I swore that the Exploder would be the last time I wandered from the big "H", but now since Ford sent me a check to pay for my Michelins and stepped up to the plate on this blend door, I might (emphasis on "might") consider another Ford.
(Or a Lincoln-Mercury... good thing my Ford dealer was so busy that day. They're complete jerks and would have never taken the time to use this program). Anyway... picked it up two days later...paid my $150.00 co-pay... heater works like a champ... and I'm happy again. For now.
Hope this helps anyone with a similar problem.
$1,000?? Man, talk about woes!
tidester
Host
SUVs
it's probably the same song with olds/caddy dealer service vs chevy service... the customer paid the extra X thousand for the car on the same chassis, and the dealer has upgraded their operation to hold the customers and make them loyal. if your ford dealer is not satisfactory, try the other guy.
Has anyone else experienced this? Was it resolved?
Thanks!
I checked with the dealer today, and they said they called Ford and Ford has had some reports of the noise on other trucks. Ford instructed the dealer to do some spot welding in specific locations to eliminate the noise. I may have the truck back by end of week. I'll let you know how it goes.
In the meantime, I am driving a '00 Taurus SE loaner. I am getting used to it. Hated it at first, but it has grown on me. Maybe if the truck doesn't get fixed I will just trade it for a Taurus or Sable (or try the lemon law; a lemon law lawyer told me I have a case should I decide to go that route, but it could take 5 weeks to 6 months to get it returned as a lemon).
Does anyone know how the lemon law works? I assume should the truck be found to be a lemon, Ford would take the truck back and refund a prorated value of the truck. Does that value get applied against my loan balance, with the difference applied to a new vehicle of my choice (any Ford product, I guess)? Just curious how that works..
The question is this bmwk75 - did they make you fill out a form? Are there any phone numbers you can call to get help -
What;s the name of the dealership where they gave you this information.
Thanks
I do not personally have experience with lemon law vehicles in NY state, but i do know that it can take a while to process, and does go to arbitration rather than the courts. In NY state, there is a 2 year time limit on discovering the problem, and another limit (I am not sure) for attempts at resolution.
Good luck, either way you decide.
Check out the NY Lemon Law info below. There is a lot of info about the law on the WWW. I had this info on my computer so I'm passing it on to you
Bioman
WHAT IS THE MANUFACTURER'S DUTY TO REPAIR?
With respect to those covered cars sold and registered in New York, the law imposes a duty upon the manufacturer to repair, free of charge and without any deductible, any defect covered by warranty, if the consumer notifies the manufacturer or its authorized dealer of such defect within the first 18,000 miles of operation or two years from the original delivery date, whichever comes first. Once timely notice of the defect is given, the manufacturer may not charge for the repairs, regardless of when the repairs are performed. Any consumer who has been charged for such repairs or a deductible during such period should contact the Attorney General's office.
WHAT SHOULD CONSUMERS DO IF THEY BECOME AWARE OF A PROBLEM WITH THEIR CAR?
The consumer should immediately report any defect or "condition" either directly to the manufacturer or to its authorized dealer. A "condition" is a general problem, such as a difficulty in starting, repeated stalling, or a malfunctioning transmission, that can result from a defect of one or more parts. If the consumer reports the problem to the dealer, the law requires the dealer to forward written notice to the manufacturer within seven days. Under the law, notice to the dealer is considered notice to the manufacturer. Unless otherwise advised by their lawyer, consumers should continue to make their monthly payments if the car is financed or leased. Failure to do so may result in a repossession which may adversely affect a consumer's lemon law rights.
WHAT SHOULD A CONSUMER DO IF THE DEALER REFUSES TO MAKE REPAIRS?
If the dealer refuses to make repairs within seven days of receiving notice from the consumer, the consumer should immediately notify the manufacturer in writing, by certified mail, return receipt requested, of the car's problem and that the dealer has refused to make repairs. A sample notice to the manufacturer may be found in this book.
WHAT MUST THE MANUFACTURER DO UPON RECEIPT OF THE CONSUMER'S NOTICE OF THE DEALER'S REFUSAL TO MAKE REPAIRS?
The manufacturer or its authorized dealer must commence repairs within 20 days from receipt of the consumer's notice of the dealer's refusal to make repairs.
WHAT ARE A CONSUMER'S RIGHTS IF THE MANUFACTURER DOES NOT MEET ITS DUTY TO REPAIR?
If the problem is not repaired after a reasonable number of attempts, or the manufacturer or the dealer refuses to commence repairs within 20 days from the manufacturer's receipt of the "refusal to repair" notice from the consumer, and if the problem substantially impairs the value of the car to the consumer, the manufac- turer, at the consumer's option, must either refund the full purchase or lease price, or offer a comparable replacement car.
DOES THE LAW SPECIFY THE NUMBER OF REQUIRED REPAIR ATTEMPTS?
It is presumed that there have been a reasonable number of attempts to repair a problem if, during the first 18,000 miles of operation or two years from the original delivery date, whichever comes first, either: (1) the same problem has been subject to repair four or more times and the problem continues to exist; or (2) the car is out of service by reason of repair of one or more problems for a cumulative total of 30 or more calendar days and the problem continues to exist.
WHAT SPECIAL NOTIFICATION REQUIREMENTS EXIST FOR MOTOR HOME OWNERS?
The law imposes special notification requirements for motor homes which are designed to afford motor home manufacturers one final chance to repair the defect before consumers can take advantage of the remedies offered by the lemon law. If the motor home was subject to three repair attempts or was out of service by reason of repair for 21 days, whichever occurs first, the consumer must report such fact to the manufacturer or its authorized dealer by certified mail, return receipt requested, before seeking arbitration or commencing a lawsuit under the lemon law.
Thanks for the responses re: the Lemon Law. In my state, you have the first 12 months or 12,000 miles to report and attempt to get a problem fixed. Unfortunately I didn't report my problem until 13,011 miles (it was only the 9th month ownership) so I am not eligible for the lemon law
However, the dealer still has my truck. Tomorrow will be day 14. If I do not get it back by end of the week, I am going to go talk with my salesperson about some kind of "deal". Maybe ask for fair MARKET value for the Explorer and trade for an '02 Taurus or other Ford product. Maybe the dealership could contact Ford and get approval for some kind of adjustment in lieu of getting a vehicle labeled as a "lemon". It's worth a shot and I have heard of dealers/manufacturers making such arrangements for customers.
Thanks!
ryster
that would look real good on the sales brochures and window stickers...
"... the 2003 Ford Evacuation, with room enough for the whole town and power enough to tow it all along behind you, comes with color-coordinated freakin' endless black holes for all your money on both front and rear..."
I'd rather just have a big ol' piece of railroad iron hanging out there 5 inches or so from the sheet metal, and let everybody else beware. but maybe it's only my personal religion, and nobody else thinks twice about a royal ripoff over "bumpers."
Besides, a high-end Taurus or Mustang GT would be okay to me.
They said the body seams in the B-Pillar were loose. They said they fixed them such that they will never be loose again. When asked why this happened, they said most likely the seams were not properly assembled at the factory and loosened up. That's real confidence inspiring.
I am picking it up tomorrow morning, so I am anxious to see if it truly is resolved.
it would seem that a flappy body support pillar without enough reinforcement (provided by welding the bent pieces on that go the other way) might be a safety cage issue. maybe those ought to be reported to NHTSA.
Also, has anyone had support problems with their seats? I have a '96 and it seems that the support around the left leg gave out. I have owned this Explorer for a year + & like it alot. It has 108K on it (previous rental). If anyone has had similar problems, I would appreciate any input.
Thanks
Tom
My guess would be that if you were to make this swap, you would want to do an engine/tranny swap, as one unit and then just cut the tail shaft to fit. I can tell you that the exhaust system, especially the exhaust manifolds on the 5.0 Explorers appears to be a plumbers nightmare. (That could be further complicated because I have an AWD unit.) I'm certain you could make it fit, but I suspect that it would be helpful if you had a brother that was proficient with a cutting torch and a welding rig. That 5.0 unit does fill up the engine compartment of the Explorer. If I were to guess, I'd say you would be money ahead just buying a late model V-8 Explorer, rather than trying to cobble one together. I also suspect that the front suspension system is probably beefier for a V-8 than it is for a V-6, which would necessiate further change.
>>>>>Also, has anyone had support problems with their seats? I have a '96 and it seems that the support around the left leg gave out. <<<<<
Power or manual seat? Driver or passengers side? I haven't had any problem with mine (which is a power operated unit).
However the v8s caused further change to the metal body frame around the transmission hump, because a bigger transmission from the thunderbird had to be adopted to handle the v8 torque. (so you really need the tbird tranny) I do not know if all explorers were modified to the bigger hump, but they probably all were for easier building. Next, the v8 was not available with the control trac 4wd because it was larger than the smaller awd transfer case. I don't know if you have 2wd or 4wd, but as you can see the 4wd would have to be switched to awd. Next the venerable v8 had to have special headers that have a special angle to fit. Also the radiator had to get a slim "pancake" clutch to fit. Overall, it is a tight fit. I wouldn't recommend the swap. I would try to trade.
BTW, you can program your own extra keys once you have the dealer cut them (they cost $20 to $25 each). Don't let the dealer tell you that they have to do the programming for a mere $70!
I noticed that you had an earlier thread regarding the high cost of the Explorer bumpers in the low speed impact tests. I just heard today that the Insurance Institute awarded the 2002 Explorer their highest rating for crash worthiness. Sounds like Ford got that part right.
Good luck!
dohc32v - the seat is a manual slide & on the driver side. use to be a rental, i suppose a lotta cheeks have smiled on this one. checked out salvage yards - best price $75
thanks
tom