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Comments
I don't know what year Explorer you have, but mine (1997) has a button on the end of the gear shift lever that I push in to engage or disengage over drive. The computer is programed to always engage the O/D feature when you first start the vehicle and I make it a point to disengage the O/D feature when I'm driving around town. (I don't care to have to rebuild the tranny at 70,000 miles like a lot of people do. I figure gas is a lot cheaper than a tranny rebuild.) I have a light on the dash board, lower right hand corner, that comes on that says O/D disengaged. Otherwise I have the 1-2-D selection on the column, like you do. Only time I use O/D is when I get on the Freeway or Interstate and start clocking 70 or 80 MPH. I wish Ford had reversed the O/D logic in the Explorer and had the vehicle start with the O/D feature disengaged to start with. But I suppose this was Ford playing games with the EPA on vehicle mileage ratings. (So I just have to remember to punch the button each time I start the vehicle.)
Ace
the way I read the manual for my 2000 Exploder, any two working keys can be used to program a third one. the instructions for programming a new key fob looked so formidable that I haven't tried that.
There are a lot more V-6 Ford Explorers out there than there are V-8's, so someone should be responding to you shortly that has a V-6, I would hope.
SOLD !!!!!
PS...My brother in law just got rid of his 1992 Sport, it was a gem up until about a year ago and then a lot of different things started to go on it.
While out on the highway yesterday tried to get some readings...
55mph ~2,000rpm
60mph ~2,250rpm
70mph ~2,500rpm
75mph ~2,600rpm
I did not disengage overdrive to see what effect that had.
BTW about 5000 miles ago he just had a used motor put in after he drove though a huge water hole and ruined the motor he had in it.
The dealer worked on it 5 times, the fifth appointment had them keeping the truck for 17 days. They finally realigned the B-Pillar, refinished the B-Pillar, and welded the body seams. This eliminated my noise. However, it is gradually loosening up again and I have a sinking feeling it is going to come back.
I may just trade the truck by year end to take advantage of the special financing that is available for the rest of the year. It is sad to see a vehicle's integrity deteriorate as much as my Explorer's has over the past few months. My truck only has ~17,000 miles on it, but when going over a bump you would think it had more like 57,000. For what these things cost they should have better structural integrity and build quality. I guess my relationship with my Explorer has been love/hate. No in-between.
I love the vehicle. About the only thing bad about the Explorer is the gas mileage but I expected that when I bought it. I have experienced any rattles or shakes, no transmission problems or engine problems. I am due for a tune-up and some other maintenance. Kind of hesistating to do it since the vehicle is running so well. Also had a 1991 Explorer that we traded in with 110,000 miles on it. Only trouble with that one was A/C O-rings and arm rest.
thanks
Tom
Firestone tires with about 24 lbs of pressure I'm told ~ LOL. Suggest you install a roll cage first however.
Thanks
Tom
thanks
tom
I bought my bilsteins on the internet, from PerformanceProducts.com in California. You might be able to get another reseller closer to your home (lower shipping costs and quicker) from www.bilstein.com website.
The Explorer rides tremendously better and much firmer with the new shocks. If you like a mushy "caddy" ride, Bilsteins are not for you.
Good luck!
The Edelbrocks are great. It dosnt feel very stiff at all but totally controls the bouncing, the leaning in turns and the rocking horse action associated with hard breaking and acceleration. It was a little more then I wanted to pay...$70 each. OUCH.
My Explorer will jolt/bump sometimes as well. I have a '00 Explorer XLS with 4.0L OHV engine and the 5-speed automatic. It has only done it a handful of times in the 13 months I have owned the truck so I haven't bothered the dealer about it. My truck has spent 20+ days at the dealer in the last 13 months, so I feel your pain. I keep threatening to trade mine but I can't find anything I like significantly better to replace it with.
If your lease is up in July, I would stick with it and just give it back to Ford at the end. Terminating a lease early can be rough unless there are some huge incentives to absorb the costs. Besides, winter time is here and the Explorer would really come in handy in any nasty weather
Seems like a lot of the gripes come from the ohc engine, which was not available in 95 when I bought mine.
Jason
Sorry to hear about your misfortune.
tidester
Host
SUVs
The one thing I really can't stand about my Explorer is the way the rear end kicks out if you go around a bend that has uneven pavement. Would it be better to get a stiffer or softer shock to eliminate this problem. PS...I think the thing rides pretty stiff as it is.
Thanks.
No idea as to who Ford uses as a OEM supplier for shocks.
Never had the rearend kick out on me in my Explorer, but I have AWD which may account for this. I also drive my Explorer very conservatively, especially around corners and bends in the road. A Cobra it is not ~ LOL.
Ok. Here is the question. What mpg do you average on highway, city and overall mixed? I get about 17.5mpg on pure freeway and about 13mpg pure city with 13.5 to 14 mixed. This is even with a drop in K@N and a 3.73 rear. If you fair much better than I then please let me know whats different. If the full synthetics work in those other areas then I am sold on it. (poor mpg or not I love that 302)
Bingo, we are both running about the same mileage. I also run a K & N drop in air filter. I will note however, I keep my Explorer out of overdrive around town. A good mechanic friend of mine told me that is what chews up a transmission, constantly shifting into and out of overdrive between lights. So most of my in town driving is done without the benifit of the taller gear. As soon as I hit the freeway, I let the final drive gear kick in. (I also have a 3.73 Rear end, trailer towing package.)
I would suspect a timing problem may be present. Your computer gets a lot of source input data from engine and exhaust sensors to adjust the timing for clean burn under various engine load conditions. It may be one of the sensors is sending slightly erroneous data to your computer in the higher rev range. Has your check engine light ever flashed on? Another source could be spark plug wires starting to break down or presenting high resistance and finally a possible vacumn leak somewhere in the intake system. I trust you take the vehicle out on the highway and blow it out at high speed now and again, so the engine isn't all coked up with carbon. ( You might want to try another can of stronger fuel injector cleaner, for good measure. Also I trust you have changed fuel filters, since you bought the vehicle.) As a quick check on your gasoline source, if you only buy gas at one location, I would try a differnent station for the next fill up, just to be sure you are not encountering contaminated fuel. You have a rather unique problem, that requires patience and the checking of various items. I wouldn't just go to a higher octane fuel and ignore the problem. Good luck and let us know what you find.
1. Chevron techron fuel system cleaner every 6,000 miles. Get the big bottle and drive the tank to less than 1/4.
2. You may want to pull the plugs to see if there is anything gumming up the spark plugs. FYI: the manifold gasket upgrade that Ford is now pushing in the M00012 warranty extension fixes a problem where the #3 plug gets gummed up. While you are there, check the wires for burn marks. Some of my wires were actually touching the engine.. a sure way to ruin them.
3. Check air filter
4. Check o2 sensor.
Good luck
ace