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Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • dohc32vdohc32v Member Posts: 60
    >>>>>Do you know if there is any difference in the shift selector between 4 Speed auto and 5 speed auto? My selector has D 2 1. <<<<<

    I don't know what year Explorer you have, but mine (1997) has a button on the end of the gear shift lever that I push in to engage or disengage over drive. The computer is programed to always engage the O/D feature when you first start the vehicle and I make it a point to disengage the O/D feature when I'm driving around town. (I don't care to have to rebuild the tranny at 70,000 miles like a lot of people do. I figure gas is a lot cheaper than a tranny rebuild.) I have a light on the dash board, lower right hand corner, that comes on that says O/D disengaged. Otherwise I have the 1-2-D selection on the column, like you do. Only time I use O/D is when I get on the Freeway or Interstate and start clocking 70 or 80 MPH. I wish Ford had reversed the O/D logic in the Explorer and had the vehicle start with the O/D feature disengaged to start with. But I suppose this was Ford playing games with the EPA on vehicle mileage ratings. (So I just have to remember to punch the button each time I start the vehicle.)
  • tigerjon1tigerjon1 Member Posts: 26
    Will a dealer do them for $20-$25 if I mention that price or will I need to go to a locksmith? Thanks for the info. Also, I did watch dateline last night. The 2002 performed like a champ along with the Acura MDX in the head-on collision test.
  • ace10ace10 Member Posts: 137
    head on collision test a game of chicken, if so, did either the MDX driver or the Exploder driver flinch, at all?

    Ace
  • gregb882gregb882 Member Posts: 75
    tigerjon1: Sorry, I wasn't very clear on the key. You have to buy the key blank from Ford because it has the security chip in it. They also cut the key for the $20 to $25 (price depends on the dealer - I paid $20). Then it has to be programmed. The 2002 Explorer has the ability to program them for you as long as you have the two original keys that come with the vehicle. The operator manual describes the procedure well. I bought 2 new keys, programmed them myself, and put the 2 originals away for save keeping. The dealer can also program them, as they have for earlier model Fords, but they charge $70. The salesman I dealt with told me about the self-programming feature, but the parts guy at the same dealer tried to convince me they needed to do it.
  • swschradswschrad Member Posts: 2,171
    my Ford dealer made another key for me, and the blank is a Curtis blank, one of the big "get keys here!" operators. No doubt they all come from the same factory, but which one is OEM and the other guys pay 'em to stamp their name in the plastic is not known. By far the biggest OEM auto lock outfit a few years ago was Briggs & Stratton, but Mom sold the stock and we don't get the annual reports any more to know market share, etc.

    the way I read the manual for my 2000 Exploder, any two working keys can be used to program a third one. the instructions for programming a new key fob looked so formidable that I haven't tried that.
  • newxmannewxman Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2000 4x4 Limited w/4.0L SOHC V6 with Auto & O/D. It too has the disengage O/D button on the shift selector. Most of my driving is highway at 70-80MPH and I thought the RPMs for 70MPH of 2600rpm, 75=2800, & 80=3000 with O/D engaged was rather high. With O/D off 70=3500 and 75=3800. I first posted looking for Explorer owners with the same engine/tranny to see if this is normal. So far only V8 owners with 3.73 axle have responded. Hopefully someone with a simlar configuration with also respond. Thanks for yours.
  • dohc32vdohc32v Member Posts: 60
    OK, I was out banging down the Freeway yesterday and here are the readings I got for my Explorer. (1997, V-8, AWD, 3.73 rearend) With O/D engaged at 60 Mph, about 2,100RPM, at 70 Mph about 2,400RPM and at 80Mph about 2,600RPM. Without O/D engaged at 80Mph, I was at 3,600RPM.
    There are a lot more V-6 Ford Explorers out there than there are V-8's, so someone should be responding to you shortly that has a V-6, I would hope.
  • mlayton694mlayton694 Member Posts: 45
    Hey, I had a 2000 XLT 6cyl SOHC . I would tell what the RPM were but the piece of junk wouldnt idle after 40k miles, so I couldnt get it out of the driveway,
    SOLD !!!!!
  • maccmacc Member Posts: 11
    My niece wants to buy a 1991 ford explorer 4wd sport with 100,000 miles (asking $3200). What is the typical life of explorer transmission?? She can't afford to get stuck with a car with alot of repairs needed. Thanks!
  • maccmacc Member Posts: 11
    my niece wants to buy a 1991 explorer4wd sport with 100,00 miles for $3200. What's the typical life of an explorer transmission? She can't afford alot of repair bills.
  • smily1smily1 Member Posts: 104
    Dont let her. 91 was a bad transmission year. Unless it has already been done I would stay away from it. The ohv v6 motors seem to be good and last a long time if taken care of. But still, there is potential for problems with this year such as brakes, bairings and the like. Have her spend a little extra and have a mechanic look it over if she has to have it.
  • njdevilsrnnjdevilsrn Member Posts: 185
    A soon to be 11 year old 2 door truck for $3200? That is a steep price. I bet if you shopped around and haggled you could get a "Generation II" (1995?) Sport for not much more money.

    PS...My brother in law just got rid of his 1992 Sport, it was a gem up until about a year ago and then a lot of different things started to go on it.
  • rysterryster Member Posts: 571
    '00 Explorer with 4.0L OHV V6, 5-speed auto...

    While out on the highway yesterday tried to get some readings...
    55mph ~2,000rpm
    60mph ~2,250rpm
    70mph ~2,500rpm
    75mph ~2,600rpm

    I did not disengage overdrive to see what effect that had.
  • matrixfrogmatrixfrog Member Posts: 180
    My friend has a 95(I think) Ford Explorer Limited Edition. It has just recently developed a problem with the idling when it starts up. The problem is when you just start it up it idles to about 3500rpm. After a while it will drop down to normal but that is about 5-10 mintues later. It will do it every time he starts it up even if it has been running all day. Since it is idling so high, when he shifts it out of park it sort of snaps and jerks which cant be good for his tranny. Any idea's as to what the problem is?

    BTW about 5000 miles ago he just had a used motor put in after he drove though a huge water hole and ruined the motor he had in it.
  • bcollisonbcollison Member Posts: 24
    My 1998 Explorer has a noise in the front end on the drivers side everytime you go over something rough. It's a dull popping noise. Had it in the shop and they replaced the rack and pinion which took care of the slopiness in the steering wheel but I still have the popping noise. When I bring it in they say everything is tight and of course can't duplicate the problem. HELP!
  • rysterryster Member Posts: 571
    Hi...I also went through a nightmare with a popping noise on my '00 Explorer. Mine was more in the vicinity of my driver's door latch, though.

    The dealer worked on it 5 times, the fifth appointment had them keeping the truck for 17 days. They finally realigned the B-Pillar, refinished the B-Pillar, and welded the body seams. This eliminated my noise. However, it is gradually loosening up again and I have a sinking feeling it is going to come back.

    I may just trade the truck by year end to take advantage of the special financing that is available for the rest of the year. It is sad to see a vehicle's integrity deteriorate as much as my Explorer's has over the past few months. My truck only has ~17,000 miles on it, but when going over a bump you would think it had more like 57,000. For what these things cost they should have better structural integrity and build quality. I guess my relationship with my Explorer has been love/hate. No in-between.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    I have a 1996 V8 Explorer. I have over 121,000 miles on the vehicle. The problems I have had with the vehicle are: bad throttle body plate (recall item for V6 but not V8, still don't understand that one), bad oxygen sensor at 50,000 miles and cupping of the tires. I'm convinced now that the Goodyear tires are the reason for the cupping. Will replace those after Xmas. The other problem I've had (not really a problem) is accidently hitting the fuel cutoff switch in the passenger wheel well.

    I love the vehicle. About the only thing bad about the Explorer is the gas mileage but I expected that when I bought it. I have experienced any rattles or shakes, no transmission problems or engine problems. I am due for a tune-up and some other maintenance. Kind of hesistating to do it since the vehicle is running so well. Also had a 1991 Explorer that we traded in with 110,000 miles on it. Only trouble with that one was A/C O-rings and arm rest.
  • sanandtonsanandton Member Posts: 342
    The 1996 Explorers were head and shoulders above subsequent year Explorers. We had a 1996 on lease and loved it. We subsequently bought a 1997 and 1998. They were junk from day one. The build quality and number of rattles we experienced made me wonder if it was pieced together with bubble gum. Those of you with a 96 model year hold on to them. It was a vintage year for explorers.
  • brophbroph Member Posts: 85
    & have a dull popping noise when going over something hard also, which seems to be in the front. I have replaced the front shocks, but still have the problem. I wonder if it actually is in the rear (air shocks)or the pillars that i've been reading about. Outside of it riding really hard, it runs pretty good for a vehicle with 108K on it. Wouldn't mind getting a newer one, but from what I'm hearing, the 96 is a good year. I'll probably just keep this one, especially after soaking $1,000 over the last year (regular maint & bearings). Anyone have any ideas on how to soften the ride a little??

    thanks

    Tom
  • dohc32vdohc32v Member Posts: 60
    >>>>Anyone have any ideas on how to soften the ride a little??<<<<

    Firestone tires with about 24 lbs of pressure I'm told ~ LOL. Suggest you install a roll cage first however.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    has anyone replaced their shocks in the V8 Explorer? What kind di you use and how much were they? I don't want to get the Bilsteins only because I don't feel like dropping that much money on a vehicle with 121k miles on it. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
  • mazman1mazman1 Member Posts: 229
    I replaced my stock Ford shocks with Bilsteins. Yes they are expensive, i paid $65 each, and that was on sale, but the improvement in the ride is tremendous. If you dont want to pay for bilstein, then try Edelbrock or Rancho.
  • brophbroph Member Posts: 85
    Thanks for the info on the shocks. As for the roll cage, I'll just fold back the roof, drop one in & super glue the seams back together or should I use epoxy?

    Thanks

    Tom
  • swschradswschrad Member Posts: 2,171
    just bolt it on the outside, tell everybody it's an expedition-rated roof rack. put some 13-inch tires on the top and you can tell 'em that you have an extreme explorer that rides well on any two pair of tires. if all 8 are Firestones they'll believe it.
  • brophbroph Member Posts: 85
    did you install the shocks yourself? or did you have them installed. if you installed them yourself, how hard was it to install the rear. the front gave me no problem. also did you buy your shocks online? the best price that i got was $65 plus s/h of $10. probably order the bilsteins in mid january, unless i can find an automotive place that sells them. hate to pay someone to do it, especially if it is not that difficult to do.

    thanks

    tom
  • mazman1mazman1 Member Posts: 229
    If you have replaced the front shocks yourself, the rear shock installation will be a piece of cake. You have to lower the spare out of the way, but you do not need to remove the tires. Just use jackstands to support the body. You have to re use the lower bolt, but the upper bolts are included in the kit.

    I bought my bilsteins on the internet, from PerformanceProducts.com in California. You might be able to get another reseller closer to your home (lower shipping costs and quicker) from www.bilstein.com website.

    The Explorer rides tremendously better and much firmer with the new shocks. If you like a mushy "caddy" ride, Bilsteins are not for you.

    Good luck!
  • brophbroph Member Posts: 85
    They have to ride better than the air shocks that I have now. Do they make the vehicle bounce around or handle the road better. As you can see I'm not that experienced about shocks. I put monroe sensa-trak on the fronts this past spring. I'll just change all four. If it makes it handle better, I'm all for that. Thanks for the info.
  • mazman1mazman1 Member Posts: 229
    The Explorer's ride with the Bilsteins is stiffer. Almost no bounce... but it is much stiffer than the factory Ford shocks... so that you have very little body roll.. The tires stay well planted and even the braking is improved. If you dont mind a stiff ride, the Bilsteins are great. (Bilstien shocks are factory for Posrche.) You may also wish to consider Edelbrock or Rancho. If you want it to feel like a caddy, Bilsteins are not for you.
  • smily1smily1 Member Posts: 104
    I have a 98 V8 AWD that I put Edelbrocks on. Installed them myself. Rear shocks were easy to install but the front was another story. I would still have done it myself rather than pay someone.

    The Edelbrocks are great. It dosnt feel very stiff at all but totally controls the bouncing, the leaning in turns and the rocking horse action associated with hard breaking and acceleration. It was a little more then I wanted to pay...$70 each. OUCH.
  • jrc346jrc346 Member Posts: 337
    As someone who has been Ford loyal for a number of years I am getting very frustrated over my 2000 Ford Explorer with 23,000 Miles. I have the 4.0l SOHC V6 engine and that has been a problem since 10,000 miles and now I think I may be having problems with the Transmition. I have had the Explorer in to the Dealer 3 times for the ratteling in the Engine. They have replaced the timing chain tensioners one time which didn't solve the problem. I took it in again and they thought that the timing cassette was bad but they weren't sure because they couldn't really pinpoint where the noise was comming from. They also said that they couldn't do anything to the engine because there was a TSB out on this noise and FORD was looking into a solution to the problem. They also assured me that the noise wouldn't cause any damage to the Engine. Now I have a new problem. I'll be going down any road or expressway and all of the sudden the car will jolt or sort of bump. It almost feels like I was hit from behind. Sometimes more aggressivly that others. The vehicle is a lease and the lease is up in July. However I don't want this ratteling, jolting Explorer anymore. On the plus side it has held together very well and I love the way it drives and handles in rough weather, but I no longer feel safe in it with this new jolting thing. I also have a 1996 Explorer and that has been a great and reliable vehicle. When I got the 2000 I was hoping for the same reliable transportation and instead was given a true FORD DUD.
  • njdevilsrnnjdevilsrn Member Posts: 185
    I feel your pain dude. The worst mistake I made concerning cars was to trade in my '97 XLT. The '99 that replaced it was a piece of trash. It was in the dealer for about 25 days of the 14 months I owned it. I don't know about the projected reliability of the new Explorers, but Ford's quality really seems to be hit or miss the past few years. My brother in law has a 2002 Expedition XLT (leather and all), and the thing has a creaking floorboard under the front seat passenger's feet. Maybe Ford needs to make some cutbacks in production and pay a little more attention to quality.
  • rysterryster Member Posts: 571
    Hi!

    My Explorer will jolt/bump sometimes as well. I have a '00 Explorer XLS with 4.0L OHV engine and the 5-speed automatic. It has only done it a handful of times in the 13 months I have owned the truck so I haven't bothered the dealer about it. My truck has spent 20+ days at the dealer in the last 13 months, so I feel your pain. I keep threatening to trade mine but I can't find anything I like significantly better to replace it with.

    If your lease is up in July, I would stick with it and just give it back to Ford at the end. Terminating a lease early can be rough unless there are some huge incentives to absorb the costs. Besides, winter time is here and the Explorer would really come in handy in any nasty weather :)
  • jrc346jrc346 Member Posts: 337
    Whats funny about the Bumping feeling is that it only happends a handful of times like ryster said. It did however just start doing this thing yesturday and I'm not sure is it's going to do it more often or if it's going to get worse. Thats what I'm worried about. All I seem to think while driving it is that it will buck/bump/something terrible and have the transmition fail. Before my 2000 Explorer I had a 1998 Expedition that was an excellent vehicle. To this day I kick myself for trading that in. I will just hope that it goes away and I wont try to worry about it. I also hope that having Bill Ford in the drivers seat will healp FORD quality. Everyone have a Happy New Year!
  • dohc32vdohc32v Member Posts: 60
    If I have read one post, I have read 20 extolling the virtues of these two model years. For some reason people seem to think these two years were the best years for Ford Explorers, I'm wondering why. I have to admit also, I haven't seen a lot of posts complaining about Explorer faults relative to these two model years. Anyone have an opinon about this?
  • zman3zman3 Member Posts: 857
    I can't speak to the 96 and 97 models but I have a 95 with 73,000 miles on it. Other than routine maintenance, the only money I have had to put into it was for a new thermostat. I did have quite a few visits to the dealer under warranty, but fortunately I must have found all the bugs in time.

    Seems like a lot of the gripes come from the ohc engine, which was not available in 95 when I bought mine.
  • gregb882gregb882 Member Posts: 75
    I had a Pontiac 6000 years ago that would occasionally act just like some of you are describing - I mean it would jolt so hard that I thought the tranny fell out. Turned out to be a bad ignition wire. The dealer replaced the offending wire and it never happened again. Just a thought.
  • brophbroph Member Posts: 85
    Thanks for all the info. Now just have to decide what to use.
  • jphdxljphdxl Member Posts: 32
    I've been lurking around this board for a few months now silently nodding each time I read about a problem I've had with mine. Then I read your post re: '96 / '97 being realtively good years. I can't speak for all 1997's, but my 1997 EB V8 with 50k miles in now on engine #3 (1st went due to broken piston, 2nd to misaligned drive shaft), radiator #2, and radio #3, just to name a few. If this is a good year, I'd hate to have one from a bad year!
    Jason
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Welcome to the Town Hall!

    Sorry to hear about your misfortune.

    tidester
    Host
    SUVs
  • jrc346jrc346 Member Posts: 337
    I believe the reason that the 1996 model year seems to fare better qualitywise is because the Explorer had a refreshening in 1997. I think durring that refreshening they also fit in some cheepening. ZMAN3 also mentioned that his 95 is a good vehicle. Come to think of it, I don't remember hearing to many complaints about 95s. Maybe we can add that year to the "good years" list for Explorers ;-)
  • dohc32vdohc32v Member Posts: 60
    Sorry to hear about your problems. Have an AWD V-8 XLT that hasn't given me one minutes worth of problems other than I replaced the shocks about six months ago. One of the rears was leaking a little. I'm running synthetics in every thing, front and rear differentails, engine and transmission. I may do some over kill on maintenance, but I figure if this keeps it out of the shop, it will be worth it. I love the OHV 302 V-8, I think it is one of the best engines Ford ever produced. By looking at all the posts in here, I'm glad I don't have a V-6. That has been another observation I made from the number of comments made on this board. I can afford to pay for the extra gas usage, if I'm not having to address big $ engine and transmission problems.
  • njdevilsrnnjdevilsrn Member Posts: 185
    Being that there is a lot of mention about it lately, I have some questions about shocks. How long do they usually last (time/mileage) for normal usage? What brand does Ford put in as stock (2000 model year)?

    The one thing I really can't stand about my Explorer is the way the rear end kicks out if you go around a bend that has uneven pavement. Would it be better to get a stiffer or softer shock to eliminate this problem. PS...I think the thing rides pretty stiff as it is.

    Thanks.
  • dohc32vdohc32v Member Posts: 60
    Well it was 32,000 miles for mine and I used KYB heavy duty shocks as a replacement. I think they were about $70 a shock. Replaced them at the time of Firestone tire replacement, as one of the rears was leaking a little fluid. I suspect shock replacement depends upon vehicle usage (like heavy loads & trailering) also the type of roads you drive on (smooth or pot holed).

    No idea as to who Ford uses as a OEM supplier for shocks.

    Never had the rearend kick out on me in my Explorer, but I have AWD which may account for this. I also drive my Explorer very conservatively, especially around corners and bends in the road. A Cobra it is not ~ LOL.
  • smily1smily1 Member Posts: 104
    I have a question for you. I have a 98 XLT V8 AWD with full synthetic in the crank case. I have considered synthetic in the trany on the next service. According to my owners manual the rear differential comes factory with full synthetic gear oil. I dont know about the front.

    Ok. Here is the question. What mpg do you average on highway, city and overall mixed? I get about 17.5mpg on pure freeway and about 13mpg pure city with 13.5 to 14 mixed. This is even with a drop in K@N and a 3.73 rear. If you fair much better than I then please let me know whats different. If the full synthetics work in those other areas then I am sold on it. (poor mpg or not I love that 302)
  • dohc32vdohc32v Member Posts: 60
    >>>>>Ok. Here is the question. What mpg do you average on highway, city and overall mixed? I get about 17.5mpg on pure freeway and about 13mpg pure city with 13.5 to 14 mixed. This is even with a drop in K@N and a 3.73 rear. If you fair much better than I then please let me know whats different. If the full synthetics work in those other areas then I am sold on it. (poor mpg or not I love that 302) <<<<<

    Bingo, we are both running about the same mileage. I also run a K & N drop in air filter. I will note however, I keep my Explorer out of overdrive around town. A good mechanic friend of mine told me that is what chews up a transmission, constantly shifting into and out of overdrive between lights. So most of my in town driving is done without the benifit of the taller gear. As soon as I hit the freeway, I let the final drive gear kick in. (I also have a 3.73 Rear end, trailer towing package.)
  • smily1smily1 Member Posts: 104
    Thanks for the feedback. I also have tried to disengage the overdrive in town but have a hard time making it into a habit.
  • wh23fdctwh23fdct Member Posts: 18
    Hi- I have a 99 XLT with the 302. I have maintained it extremely well with oil changes, tranny fluid changes, air filter, etc. About 2 months ago I noticed a pinging from the engine at higher RPM's. I use sonoco gas 87 octane. usually only occurs after truck is completly warmed up. seems like it comes and goes. tried fuel system cleaner, helped a little. So. My question is should I go higher octane gas even though manual says use 87? will this harm or help? Anyone else experence this? it has 47,500 miles on it. Thanks, Jim
  • dohc32vdohc32v Member Posts: 60
    >>>>>So. My question is should I go higher octane gas even though manual says use 87? <<<<<

    I would suspect a timing problem may be present. Your computer gets a lot of source input data from engine and exhaust sensors to adjust the timing for clean burn under various engine load conditions. It may be one of the sensors is sending slightly erroneous data to your computer in the higher rev range. Has your check engine light ever flashed on? Another source could be spark plug wires starting to break down or presenting high resistance and finally a possible vacumn leak somewhere in the intake system. I trust you take the vehicle out on the highway and blow it out at high speed now and again, so the engine isn't all coked up with carbon. ( You might want to try another can of stronger fuel injector cleaner, for good measure. Also I trust you have changed fuel filters, since you bought the vehicle.) As a quick check on your gasoline source, if you only buy gas at one location, I would try a differnent station for the next fill up, just to be sure you are not encountering contaminated fuel. You have a rather unique problem, that requires patience and the checking of various items. I wouldn't just go to a higher octane fuel and ignore the problem. Good luck and let us know what you find.
  • mazman1mazman1 Member Posts: 229
    To add to dohc32v's comment..
    1. Chevron techron fuel system cleaner every 6,000 miles. Get the big bottle and drive the tank to less than 1/4.
    2. You may want to pull the plugs to see if there is anything gumming up the spark plugs. FYI: the manifold gasket upgrade that Ford is now pushing in the M00012 warranty extension fixes a problem where the #3 plug gets gummed up. While you are there, check the wires for burn marks. Some of my wires were actually touching the engine.. a sure way to ruin them.
    3. Check air filter
    4. Check o2 sensor.

    Good luck
  • ace10ace10 Member Posts: 137
    1997=very bad year

    ace
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