Lincoln MKS

e_net_rider · March 2012

Are you saying the ecoboost has a full electric power steering system?
I guess I don't understand the OLM on this machine. As far as I know, there is only a reset.
Thanks for the update on the brakes. If the vehicle sits for a couple of days, when I start and back out they make a terrible sound, similar to metal on metal grinding.
If I can get these things taken care of, especially the play at wheel, I'll be a very happy person.
Is there any place that I can find out about these differences between ecoboost and standard. I had looked at a lot of window stickers and never noticed a mention of EPS.

brucelinc · March 2012

http://media.ford.com/

The link above contains lots of information. You can find product sheets for various years and good descriptions of technologies.

Below is a quick excerpt on the EPS. Ford calls it EPAS - electric power assisted steering. In 2010, EPAS was only on ecoboost models. It is also what enables the self-parking technology.

Working in conjunction with EPAS, Pull-Drift Compensation is a software-based technology that helps drivers offset vehicle pulling or drifting that can occur in steady crosswinds or on uneven roads. Pull-Drift Compensation uses sensors to constantly measure the steering input applied by the driver to help maintain the vehicles path; it automatically compensates for slight steering input changes caused by environmental factors such as road crowning or steady crosswinds.

Oil life monitor from the owners manual:

Note: To change oil life 100% miles value from 7,500 miles (12,000 km)
or 12 months to another value, proceed to Step 3.
3. Once OIL LIFE SET TO XXX% is displayed, release and press
RESET to change the Oil Life Start Value. Each release and press will
reduce the value by 10%.
Note: Oil life start value of 100% equals 7,500 miles (12,000 km) or
12 months. For example, setting oil life start value to 60% sets the oil
life start value to 4,500 miles (7,200 km) and 219 days.

sjkfly · March 2012

I'm just now looking at AWD 09 MKSs w/under 30kmiles in the $24-25,000 range. They seem a good value, pretty stylish and loaded w/useful gadgets (all w/nav, backup camera, Sirius, Sync, etc.). The one I just drove w/the 20" wheels (a lot btr kg than the std wheels on 09s, changed in '10). Handling was pretty gd on the exit ramps, but comments about the high mass and seating (like a crossover) are accurate, as are slightly more engine noise than I had hoped for. I am getting to the downshift in cc on steep downgrades.
I am replacing my loved 02 Chrysler FWD 300M w/139k and running like a top (w/$1000 of maint/yr for system age failures). (Don't like the current crop of boxy Chryslers, no FWD avail in 300s). This car for the first time also downshifted at speed on a vy steep downgrade in an attempt to control rising speed; it was a little startling but I just killed the cc and gently trailed the brakes--don't worry abt overheating unless you are bent on running down long steep downhills at high speed; regretfully, slow down a little. In other words, all not-extremely modern cars will likely do the same thing. BTW, cars like the MKS and my Chry are more luxury oriented and are IMHO somewhat underbraked (XC CTS-V, a true track animal). I drove race cars for several years (dim past) and got a lot of that out of my system w/only a few minor disasters.
The old Chrysler has better fwd (longer) thigh support than the MKS, but CTSs & Buicks I tried were worse, as was the 09 Lexus ES350 I bought and actually turned back in after 3 days. I am 6'2". The cooled GM seatbacks incl Caddy were stiff as a park bench too--send these designers home! The best fwd thigh support? The Maxima SVs w/a pull-fwd pad, but I wanna buy /drive American; however I almost caved the other day. PS: optioned-up Maxima SVs of same year cost $4-5000 more than non-Ecoboost Lincolns. Still love my low and sleek Chrysler 300M--wish the Germans didn't ditch them in '05.

sjkfly · March 2012

Tx to both brucelinc & you for informative insights, as I am on the verge of buying an 09 MKS AWD w/everything (not Ecoboost, quite a bit pricier and not out til '10). But it has 20" wheels w/Michelins which rode smoothly up to 80 mph on the test drive. Anyway, I am curious about the wandering fluid levels as observed when checking (vs. if they are real or not). Being a geezer driving since '57 at 16, I am a little compulsive abt chkg fluid levels prior to and after long trips, etc, The underhood area is pretty crowded even compared to my well-baffled 02 Chry 300M, so not sure where to chk levels yet. I hear there is no dipstick for the tranny. We all assume that internal fluids (NOT coolant) are a little low if checked immed after driving, esp if not warmed up so the gooey stuff is still slowly flowing downward to its sump, even the PS. I wd like to know if there is some special quirk in these MKSs where apparant fluid levels wander, since that defeats the objective of discovering a sudden leak, or worse. (I still compulsively carry a qt of 10W-30 in the trunk and a 1/2 gal of water.)
Another unrelated issue that some have commented upon is the possible damage from jumpstarting what with all the black boxes and geek software. My 02 Chry 300M has remoted + and - terminals just for this purpose, and I have used them (such as when my rear seat daughter left reading lights on that DO NOT go off w/the rest of the automatic system). I wd like to be able to jumpstart w/confidence if needed and if you have some special guidelines about sequence, settings, or whatever, that wd be much appreciated. Thanks!

e_net_rider · March 2012

Historic automobile safety changes are something. I remember a classmate that owned a 52 Chevy. That was pre-rollover concerns and that is exactly what he'd do. He gave quite a few a thrill ride by heading into a "T" intersection and throw it into a sideways skid with roll. He ususally ended up on the top. He'd get out and maybe with the help of some witnesses roll it back on all four. That was a big safety change in the early 60's, lowering the center of gravity. Some were getting killed because they'd get thrown out and killed when their own vehicle rolled over them. Also pre seatbelts.
So, because of more modern raising of vehicles, we had to go back to the crush proof tops of those old cars.

e_net_rider · March 2012

The current thinking, AFAIK, when jumping or connecting battery, is to connect the positive terminal first and disconnect it last. (It has to do with the direction electrons flow)
Also it would be a good idea to turn off everything electronic possible, but with modern cars it is rather impossible to do because you have to have the ignition power on before you can change the state of say the radio or navigation system. If you are lucky, you might have enough residual power to do that but not crank.
My wife drives a crossover, and its seating is much higher than the '10 MKS. Making the tops more crushproof likely added some weight to the upper portion, but smaller glass should have lightened the same area.
As to hanging curves, I don't do it, or try not to. You just never know what you might encounter so I observe the posted speed.
The '10 3.7 FWD MKS has probably the floatiest ride I've been in for a long time. Having it on something smaller than the town car likely makes it more noticeable. But that seems to be the way Lincoln has come up with a less bone jarring ride. Bone and muscle. After a hundred miles or so, my body really appreciates that.
I'm comparing mostly to an '11 Lacrosse CXS with touring pack. Before the play in the steering developed, it was quite precise and tight on steering. As part of that, possibly the GY low profile tires which are extremely noisy and hard, the front suspension seemed a bit stiff. This vehicle had full time electronic suspension with touring and sport mode.
I wish I'd known the Ecoboost has that, something I'd like to compare.
The rear on that vehicle would get sway when one rear tire contacted road imperfection. I did not like that, but it could be stopped by going to sport mode which definitely stiffened the rear enough that it stopped it. But added more bone jarring.
After a three hour ride, I'd almost need help getting out. It was billed as luxury, but it fell short, from what I'd call base areas. The seats and steering wheel linkage. The seats were lacking proper support especially for the hardness of them. And that you could feel what was under the little padding they had. Those two areas, seat and wheel, transmitted way to much of the road to the body resulting in aches, pains, stiffness, and fatigue.
I would like a bit more of that precise steering in my MKS, but not at the cost of comfort. Both have the issue of the headrests, as most new vehicles do, beating me on the back of my head causing neck pain. On that other I turned the headrests around. One person came up with a method to straighten the posts a little which is something I'm considering.
I had so many problems with that Buick, I'm not sure that the full time electronic suspension was actually working as intended. I did get a service light for it and because of timing pressure on the dealer I'm not certain that they maybe just shut that part of system down. (They said they just reset it - two hours)

Thanks for the headsup on fluid levels. I shall have to double check method for power steering fluid. It is below the minimum level on resovoir.
So far, I have had no immediate need for service, TY Lincoln, and those with helpful info Thank You as well.
Hope your purchase goes well.

brucelinc · March 2012

I have had no variation in fluid levels - other than windshield washer fluid. Once you look around under the hood, everything is marked pretty well and the areas to check have a yellow marking. Yes, there is a transmission dipstick - next to the air filter box.

As for the head restraints, I have found that simply raising them about an inch makes them fine for me. The way they are tapered, raising them up means your head is on the lower part of the restraint and not as close. Some folks find that reclining the seat a bit is helpful.

nvbanker · March 2012

I know of no fluid fluctuations of any special nature. This transmission has a dipstick. The famous no dipstick Ford tranny was the RWD 5 & 6 speed. However, that's no issue really. If it gets low, you'll know it, because it will slip when going around a corner. I would still have them serviced every 30,000 miles even though it's not required.

I've jumped a lot of Fords, new and old, never blown out so much as a fuse. Just be careful, connect & disconnect the positive terminal last, you'll be fine. Oh, and don't cross them.

e_net_rider · April 2012

The headrest situation seems to be industry wide and got very bad after NHTSA released a mandate. The original mandate declared all makers would follow the same design, even those with systems that were proven to work, especially automatic systems.
It seems they were trying to used injury data from those who are essentially laying down while driving. Those that pier through the steering wheel and could only be seen with an extra look.
Certainly that data showed much higher and worse injuries, but it should never have been used because they were ignoring the instructions for seat positioning. (you can lead a horse to drink, but to get him to, you may have to kick him in the nads)
Being inclined leads to a greater risk of having your heart ripped loose and going toward your abdomen, deadly.
Good posture is essential for good control and comfort. Especially if you already have spinal issues.
That NHTSA decree is so flawed that the government should pay for retrofitting a fix.

e_net_rider · April 2012

I see no mention of cabin air filter except that there is one listed in parts for 2010 MKS.
Anyone know for sure and how to check or replace?

brucelinc · April 2012

The cabin filter is located behind the glovebox. The access door has little tabs. You lift up and pull.

e_net_rider · April 2012

Thank you very much. I was just returning to the site to say I located, just where you say it is.
I had been doing a lot of searching and became convinced it must exist since it is listed under several manufacturers for 2010 MKS. Purolator even has a chart for instructions by their part number. Alas the MKS part number is not in that chart. I found where others were trying to find that filter on Taurus and said to be behind glove box. I also learned there are filters under front seats for cooling seats. Someone posted that it cost him $41 each on his vehicle, and they are rather small. Look sort of like a filter for some gas masks.
Fortunately mine appear like new.
The CAF is a different story. Impossible to tell if it was ever replaced, unless I can dig records, and it is FOMOCO. Rather dirty, but not needing immediate replacement with another Ford one. What surprised me is it is not a carbon impregnated filter. It is made of what appears to be long fibered glass in part and appears to be a quality filter.
I likely will not find the filtration specs of Ford filter.
I will be replacing as soon as I research alternatives. I will be getting carbon impregnated to remove any objectionable odors. A bit difficult to tell for sure, but it appears that it would filter both outside and recirculated air. I can say that it seems something is getting past it from the outside. When running in that position, I've been getting the feeling of being dirtied by pollen. I have terrible allergies to some irritants and besides bothering sinuses it will make my exposed skin itch.
Therefore I will search for a filter that is capable of fine filtration without obstruction of air flow, even if that means changing more frequently since it may plug by catching the finer debris.
And that said, a caution for those who have not serviced, if plugging up, it will effect heating and cooling system. First it will strain the fan motor because it won't be able to properly move air. And it will then make problems with AC. Not having sufficient air moving across evaporator will at least decrease efficiency of system. And depending upon if it is a pressure related cycling system, it could run with much higher head pressures than necessary causing extra wear on the compressor. A harder working compressor will die earlier and eat more fuel.
Sadly the only mention of existance is in the scheduled maintenance which says inspect at 7500 miles, replace at 15K, if it exists.
Thanks again bruce.

e_net_rider · April 2012

Oops! It is mentioned at the last part of the section on A/C, but nothing in the index.
I've since downloaded the pdf version, which is searchable.
I've also pulled my filter and it's not near as plugged as I would have suspected considering the heavy pollen around here. I suspect that is because I most of the time run the system in recirculate. And because of my sensitivity to pollen, dust, etc. I feel like it is still coming in with outside air. And although it appears to be of quality manufacturer, I can not find any specs as to how small of particles it will remove. It obviously is not carbon impregnated which means it is not designed to remove odors like some are.
I have ordered an alternative filter that at least gave size specs for removal and is impregnated with a biocide. It is the same chemical and manufacturer of filters for clean environments such as hospitals. Since this filter also functions for the recirculate I thought this would be a good choice because it will stopped trapped particles from releasing mold spores or other potentially bad bacteria. And that is possible from past experience. I had bought a used Sable and after some time I noticed that it was putting less air out of vents in the outside position than recirculate. I later discovered that it had a CAF and eventually found it. Found it coated with a layer that peeled away like a blanket. The quality of that filter was so good it merely had to be thoroughly washed and then good as new.
Happy motoring.

e_net_rider · April 2012

If you have been searching for an alternate CAF since the Ford will not remove odors, caution, WIX has a bad listing for 2010.

joshcs · June 2012

What would be a minimum to average credit score to lease a Lincoln? Any model...

Kirstie_H · June 2012

Your question might be "buried" in this discussion and not noticed by those who can offer advice. You might try posting in our General Questions about Leasing discussion, where it's more likely to get feedback.

e_net_rider · July 2012

To date, I've had the TSB for front brakes and 2 damaged door seals replaced. Not a big deal. I suspect there may be an issue with the rear as well. Next time they clean my car at dealer, or anywhere, I will ask to be careful about getting product on rotors. First sensation is decreased braking, then with more braking/heating of it, grabbing sensation starts. Relative to the rear brakes, it compounded the sensation of the rear brakes not handling their fair share. lurching and nose dropping with braking. I will wait and see if cleaning residues continue concern.
With door seals replaced, I can now pursue bad air entering. I've had field dust coming in as well as some odors when running in recirculate.
I'd appreciate any input on possibilities.
So far, the likely suspect is the recirculate door. You know the fan noise level changes if switching between inside and outside air. I noticed yesterday that there is some variance with the fan set to constant speed. Perhaps running a calibration routine of doors will fix. Maybe the door motor.
Also I noticed a air leak location. Front of front door where two door panels meet, the door seal is not able to seal that channel. Some sort of filler to level the surface would work. Also aiding in stopping noise penetration.
Wow, new door seals are much firmer. A heavier door swing to close is needed. It would be nice if they stay that way.
Also had one time event of braking pulling car to one side then later to the other. Possibly new front brakes, so it is wait and see. They would have been well broken in, so hope it is not a lube or slide issue.
And it would make me happy if the engine cutout was just an anomaly. Driving steady speed, for just a moment, engine cut. Either an ignition or fuel circuit hiccup.
The slight wheel play is also wait and see. I wish it gone but mostly hope it don't get worse. Smiling but not quite ear to ear.

e_net_rider · July 2012

I was tickled happy when I read the list of good luxury cars to own. The MKS was second on the list. Although the determination was likely subjective, they used Edmonds total cost of ownership in the determination. The initial costs used appeared to be for base models. And what was striking about the MKS was the percentage of vehicle price for added costs was relatively low. If you've never looked, those figures are for maintenance, depreciation, fuel, insurance, etc. The first on the list was the Hyundai Genisys, two Hyundai on list, but vehicles that started in the $70's and 80's also.
Happy Motoring

e_net_rider · July 2012

Got my first paint chip on hood. Suspect is wife who likes to follow too damn close. Any experience in fixing? I'd like to know.

akirby · July 2012

Touch up kits work well. I use paintscratch.com .

e_net_rider · July 2012

Thanks. I'll take a look at what they have. Issue I've seen in past is getting it to match level.
I've actually got two places. When they hung the front panel for painting, there was some run to a pointed corner where a glob accumulated. It broke while I was washing car.
I think I presumed the tri-coat included a clear coat.

I also need to check out foam availability for doing the fix for lower door splatter. On white it really looks nasty. And I'll look for some thin stuff to act as filler to plug that leak at the front inside edge of door.

akirby · July 2012

Paintscratch gives you everything to make it level including separate basecoat/clearcoat and even rubbing compound and sandpaper if you're willing to invest the time.

e_net_rider · July 2012

Maybe not. They say there is a mid-coat on the tri-coat white, but it is not shown as part of the kit for mine. It shows the rubbing, sandpaper, base coat and clear coat only in the kit.

akirby · July 2012

Sure it does.

Since this is a tricoat paint, all prices below include the basecoat and midcoat paint layers

The Tricoat paint includes both the basecoat and midcoat. I ordered the Pen version of the kit in the same white platinum tricoat a couple of years ago. You get all 3 coats.

You can also note that the price of the Tricoat column is almost twice what the basecoat costs in a non tricoat color.

nvbanker · July 2012

Even in recirculate, a small amount of outside air is mandated to be brought in to keep positive pressure in the cabin, so that exhaust gasses are sucked in. Unlikely, but a safety matter. Therefore, you may get a whif of dust. Usually your cabin filter will resolve it quickly.

e_net_rider · August 2012

Do you know how that is accomplished, the extra air? CAF, unlike some earlier FLM, is not carbon impregnated or of fine filtration. It is much like the paper used on the engine air filter, only designed to catch bigger particles.

e_net_rider · October 2012

A couple of days ago I had to hit brakes as a bit of panic. Fortunately situation cleared because the brakes did not do as expected.
It feels like full apply does not occur immediately. Slight pedal travel before resistance and start of apply. But a lot of travel beyond that, using much force, before full braking and maybe ABS activation.
Anyone have any ideas about this?
It is definitely not braking like anything else where I've had to stop hard.
Is there a way to temporarily disable ABS to see if that changes anything?
Definitely not feeling safe and seems intermittant.

e_net_rider · October 2012

A few days back, being farther in the country, on the drive home I noticed that something was getting in with the air. It made all my exposed skin irritated and bothered sinus. I realized that it was not in recirculate, too late. Switching it, did not seem to clear the air.
It was not until I was near back to the island that the thought occured that if I manually cranked up fan speed it was force more filtering of the air already inside vehicle, to the limit of the filter anyway. That either helped or I was already in cleaner air.
As to that positive air flow being required, I certainly can do without it. I am going to attempt sealing cabin better and may start with the advice for sealing lower area of doors against splash, thanks to poster.
Letting me know any areas of outside air intrusion are appreciated. Thank you.

nvbanker · October 2012

Is there a way to temporarily disable ABS to see if that changes anything?

That won't change anything. Different brake pads will make them more grabby, if that's what you want. Ford has probably used ceramic pads, which last forever, but IMO, don't stop worth a damn.

e_net_rider · October 2012

Maybe not as to changing something, if switched off. Just a trouble-shooting technique. It would depend upon how the components are connected.
Grabby pads can't be the issue unless something else is not functioning properly.
There seems like there might be a recovery time of several seconds before full braking is available on a second hard brake.
Of my many years, many vehicles, I've had a few brake issues. Failing booster, brake hose, sticking caliper, warped rotors, master cylinder, just plain worn out, etc. Each has unique feel and symptoms, although a bad hose and caliper will feel about the same on the pedal. Even had one that any hard braking would result in the back end coming around. Second owner and it still had the brake bleeding tool attached to the diverter/proportioning valve from the factory.
Symptom wise, current situation feels most like a bad booster with a partial blockage in main brake line.
Without better troubleshooting, I'd suspect a piece of debris that partially blocks flow to wheels and then maybe before next braking it settles out of way.
Somewhat of a lack of direct constant proportion between amount of pedal applied and braking acheived at wheel.
Does this vehicle have what GM bragged about on some vehicles, a pre-charge system?

e_net_rider · November 2012

My 2010 MKS definitely does not have the precise tight steering of 2011 Lacrosse CXS with touring pack.
My intent is to improve that. Doing a bit of left-right-left,etc. sway of steering wheel, it also produces an uneven suspension diagonally. L Front to R Rear is the weaker. Normal driving with bump rate on some roads hints of the same. Before setting out on yesterdays drive I checked tires pressures. The R Rear was 1/2 pound low, but the feel is more than that. Will retest after airing up to make sure.
This brings to mind a couple of questions.
Does Lincoln test shipments of struts and shocks and then computer match them per vehicle? I believe I read that was done on Lacrosse. My first thought of that was, "There tolerance of spec is not tight enough to yield consistantly high quality parts." But now wonder if the industry standard is low? Also the question in my mind occured, "What if you needed to replace? Are the new dealer parts boxed and shipped in matched pairs?"
And has anyone tried a different tire on their Lincoln? I wonder if one with the Euro tread designs that were common on Mercedes and some other vehicles would be a suitable replacement?
I may have to consider early tire replacement. Dealer had been using a cleanup service when you take in for service or repair. I don't know what they were spraying on my tires but it has caused checking, small cracks, all over the sidewall and over the shoulder onto the outer rib where it naturally flowed with centrifugal force. I questioned the dealer about it approximately 1000 miles ago and they said they no longer use tire dressing, too expensive. And Michelin says that is normal checking. I wonder of those statements. I had seen used Lincolns about the city lots with same condition on some of them. A 2009 had it so bad the sales said they'd replace the tires. I know there were statements that tire dressings would cause that when such first came available to public. I would have thought that had been cured.
But, the last time they applied I realized there was another major concern. They got overspray all over the brake rotors. That caused poor braking at first. As it cooked, from braking, it changed character of braking again toward grabbing. It took about a 1000 miles of local combined driving before braking returned to near normal. Caution if you use such a product.
Moving the wheel back and forth, I do feel what amounts to a bit of play. Not real loose play, but perhaps joint play between steering and wheel. Tolerable if it does not get worse, but was tighter when newer.

e_net_rider · November 2012

Still hoping to nail the issue better before I nail something unwanted. Issue is still present and the latest not always repeatable is that an attack at the pedal does not give the feel of immediate full braking available (again, a sometimes issue). Pedal can feel hard simultaneously, but move down slowly with pressure. A feel like maybe the booster is not fully functional.
I'm hoping the big Lincoln brand will pick up a few features without having to go big packages to get them. I'm thinking the suspension system could use a good tweak or maybe a step in another direction.
I may have to test drive the latest to see if they ;hit my target.
There are some movements I find undesireable in high end vehicle. Control I believe can be improved upon without sacraficing smooth ride. One system I experienced halves lateral movement to the cabin via plain hardware. With the newer controls enhancement is a certainty.
I'm wanting to test drive with the new 3.7 as well. Mileage is supposed to be up and hopefully the upped power will feel more adequate. I've been noticing that my 3.7 feels amazingly smooth and wonder if someone might ask, "Does this have a V8?" But with the power at current compared to others, maybe not.
I like the AWD idea, but not as it is packaged in MKS. Big price jump along with fuel consumption to get with options I'd want.

edward53 · November 2012

Since you seem not to be very happy with your MKS, trade it in for Cadillac XTS. It will handle better without the torque steer that the MKS has without AWD. The only difference between Buick and XTS besides price is name and interior. So, if interior appointments or brand name are not that important, go with the Buick.

datagen · November 2012

I agree with Edwards53, try a caddy. I did and it was a good move for me. The MKS burnt me bad. Much worst than you with the following problems:

Wheel bearings went out
2nd rate painting within the doors and interior
Seat heating element went out
Moon roof stop working
Transmission leakage
Steering (tilt) column went out
Rear speakers required more installation
Sync stopped working

This is what you call a variable lemon. No one thing to concentrate on, just a bunch a other things that can drive you batty. Yes they fixed everything, but by that time I am burnt out. They did not reimburse me for my time and with all of that, I just lost the trust of the vehicle.

On the other hand my CTS is great. No issues and I wrote a test drive paper on it if you are interested. Billsommerville.com click on current projects. It is project 8 and click on Test Drive. It is a PDF paper that explains what I discovered.

Ford has admitted that they still have a ways to go in the quality arena when it comes to high end vehicles. Cadillac is taking on the Europeans and this time, they are not laughing. :shades:

e_net_rider · November 2012

Not very happy? There are degrees of happy and at least I can say I am not "very un-happy", as I was with my last two GM purchases. I had checked a '12 Caddy and decided the seats in it were very much like the '11 Lacrosse. Too damn hard for a long comfortable ride. At 26K on MKS, seats are far more comfortable than GM's I experienced with 10K. Yes they are showing a bit of aging in the padding, only noticeable by comparing passenger seat, not used much, to driver seat. But enough that I'd consider changing the padding in the future.
Also I'd appreciate a little more bolster in the seat backs and then there is the horrible headrests resulting from NHTSA ruling around 2009. When the seat is adjusted to give proper posture the headrest frequently bumps the back of my head resulting in neck pain. Something I wish I could find a solution or redesign to. Maybe the automatic headrests would have been a better solution, although NHTSA went so far as to originally say, "Not our way, don't build."
And since I'm on the seat subject, I'm beginning to believe I have a lumbar leak down issue. And as a starting point, I do not like the single control to what I'm told is actually two bags. I would have bet otherwise on the lacrosse. Maybe it was poor padding, but it felt more like there was a mechanical arm with a roller moving about in the seat. Result being a single pressure point on spine instead of what I had always been able to acheive with the two bags, two controls system. That would be a more fluid curvature of support to my spine. That alone would be an issue, but it also had a problem, leaking down. Dealer was not able to nail the issue. It was too erratic. Sometimes it would deflate in about 3 seconds. Then maybe 20 minutes, or maybe overnight. That made it impossible to tweak for best comfort. Sadly, leak down is now showing up in the MKS. Nothing rapid yet, but overnight or an hour. Fortunately, so far it only requires pumping back out, unlike the Buick that seemed to often lose all sense of position. It is something I will watch more closely because I often don't notice it when I start out. When my back starts aching, that is when I might realize the support is gone.

e_net_rider · November 2012

What year was yours? About 3 to 5 years back, bearings of all types seemed to be a major issue. Chinese bearings. It was especially obvious in aftermarket where big name auto parts retailers had cut warranty to 30 and 90 days. You definitely had to check for better choices. Even NAPPA had some. Two outlets had bearings that showed obvious reason for short life. The seals actually had a gap at the race seal point. No feathered edge or garter spring to maintain seal.
Regardless, bearing should not be an issue on vehicle without lots of miles or abuse.
Paint? I perceive it not as well as maybe it should be. I have a place where paint chipped off. Part was obviously hung while painting and formed a drip glob which has broken off. Can I say, "poor professionalism" when it was likely done by a robot? I glanced at a new one the last time at dealer. Supposed to be a metallic red per sticker. In bright sun there was no hint of any metal-flake what-so-ever. I ask, "How did that get out of the factory?"
Heating element. Something that requires a good bit of thought/engineering expertise to get it right. Has to be highly flexible, sustain what would be abuse in most other heating applications, and not leave a brand mark on your back side.
Moon roof. Part of the reason I don't want one. Problematic in many ways and definitely not maintenance free. I'd say regardless of brand there are far more important features requiring attention to design & function.
Transmission leaking? That sounds potentially serious. And probably falls under that, "don't worry, it's warranteed." Or, hard to make things idiot proof.
Steering column? What, the motor? Or something else? The manual lock on lacrosse would not lock resulting in column change. New column or workmanship resulted in enough steering play that road imperfections could dart me across road striping and almost resulted in accident.
Rear speakers? I'd like to know more because I like quality reproduction of music. And GM definitely had poor design issues in that area. Speakers seemed to be low quality on the Harmon_Kardon top system and they employed the old trick of using trunk cavity to boost bass, which in reality most often boosts distortion and channel crosstalk.
Oh NO! NO SYNC. I can say that so far the system is fully functional as designed. Definitely not so for GM on '11 lacrosse, to the point the only hope is they 'might' recognize a problem and swap the whole unit. GM forums are full of "I had to pull over and restart" to regain functionality.

stever · November 2012

A reporter would like to speak to car owners who use Chrysler Uconnect, Cadillac CUE or Ford's MyFord/MyLincoln Touch. If you use any of these telematics systems, please send your daytime contact information to pr@edmunds.com no later than November 20, 2012 at 1 p.m. PT/4 p.m. ET.

hey_tinkerbell · November 2012

I'm a petite mom of two boys looking for a nice comfortable car to cruise around town in while doing typical mom stuff, and after scrutinizing every car available, I think this is the car for me. I understand why the reviews criticize this car, but most of their negatives are plusses from my point of view. I like a drivers seat that fits me. I want a lot of room in my car. I want it to have power, but I don't plan on driving the autobahn; I need to be able to merge onto the highway, but once I'm there, I don't plan on driving crazy. MyLincolnTouch is the first tech-y instrument panel that makes logical sense to me and is also aesthetically pleasing.

By the way, I'm replacing a 2008 CTS that I love, but is a bit on the smallish side now that my kids are growing up. I wanted SOOOOOO much to like the XTS, but after driving it, there are too many things I hate about it, the most prominent being that it feels like you're riding a bicycle in a fat suit. The CUE system is awful, and the smudgy screen doesn't even look good in the showroom. I gave the ATS a try as well, and if I was looking to pay more for a smaller car than I did for my XTS and not even have as much power, well then I suppose it might make sense. Would have loved to have driven the 2.0L Turbo, but guess what - it's not available yet, and none of the reviews out here mention that. I get that I'm just a mom, but puleeze folks...we're not brain-dead. Don't even get me talking about Buicks...they are so overpriced. I've had my GM Mastercard since 1992 and I'm afraid I'm going to have to ditch it because GM doesn't make a car I want to buy.

BMWs, Audis, and Acuras aren't feminine enough for me. They aren't at all luxurious with all their hard black plastic dashes and ugly seats. And they ride roughly too. The A/C in the BMWs and Audis take an unacceptably long time to cool down the car in the Texas summer heat, which is a total deal-breaker.

Lexus is just weird these days. I had an ES 300 before my CTS, and it was a nice, comfortable, boring car. Now the dash is just messed up. The GS dash is worse. The LS is too pricey compared to the Lincoln.

I'm totally perplexed by the ratings given by ConsumerReports.org. I'm not sure what they're smoking over there - is the HQ in Colorado???

No one seems to be talking about how bad the customer service has gotten for the luxury car brands AFTER the sale. They ask you how far you're going to drive and to put gas in it when you return. Often they don't even put you in a luxury loaner...they send you over to Enterprise! That is NOT why I pay a premium price for my cars.

Volvo's S60 is a nice little car for the $$$, but I like the Lincoln better. That would be a smarter purchase from a depreciation/resale standpoint, but I'm going to buy the Lincoln MKS because I like it better.

It's a little scary buying a car no one else seems to want to buy, but I've always marched to the beat of my own drum...

Now, I'm bracing myself for any comments that follow. Let's keep it constructive, folks.

brucelinc · November 2012

Love your attitude, tinkerbell! You don't have to justify your car-buying decisions to anyone.

Based on your post, I think you will be quite happy with the 2013 MKS. I have a 2010 and have never regretted my purchase - in fact driving to and from work is often the best part of my day. The 2013 is much improved - better brakes, adjustable suspension, more sound insulation, better trunk access, etc.

Most people who bash the MKS have either never driven one at all - especially a 2013 - or they had issues with a 2009 model. Yes, some 2009s had issues - all correctable - but issues to be sure.

Really the only reason I chose not to replace my 2010 with a 2013 is that I think the control layout and user interface with MyLincoln Touch is a step backward from the regular Sync/Nav system and combination of touch-screen, knobs and voice commands of the earlier models.

Enjoy your purchase.

edward53 · November 2012

DO YOU WORK FORD? THIS READS LIKE A TERM PAPER FROM MARKETING 101.

edward53 · November 2012

Do you and Tinker Bell work for Ford? I mean Tinker Bell writes to criticize the supposed short comings of Lincoln's competitors while praising Lincoln's supposed virtues. Then you chiming in with praise for the 2013 MKS even though you drive a 2010 MKS It's great. It's classic marketing 101.

Kirstie_H · November 2012

Actually, a class that taught people to market by creating two IDs, or working in tandem with another ID, to promote their product in a forums would be the WORST marketing class of all time. Ever. Of all time. It's not "classic" at all.

Your accusations are pointless & baseless. Please stop with the nonsense.

hey_tinkerbell · November 2012

I do not work for Ford...frankly they could not afford me.

I provided specific opinions and welcome any constructive comments expressing alternative viewpoints, that may help me in my new car search.

euphonium · November 2012

1. Cornering lights
2. Pull down (non plastic) trunk lid
3. Light under the hood
4. Rear air shocks
5. Sound of the V8

However, I appreciate
1. Ecoboost engine performance
2. Navigation
3. Superior sound system
4. Backup camera
5. Self parking feature
6. Paddle shifter
7. Adaptive Cruise
8. More comfortable front seats

edward53 · November 2012

Oh, how do you feel about the minor stuff such as road feel ,handling, and breaking?

akirby · November 2012

How do you feel about spelling?

edward53 · November 2012

Typo on misspelling braking is my part . But again I don't need to hear from Ford's peanut gallery. Meanwhile you can continue with your delusion that any Ford based Lincoln is comparable in performance to Audi, BMW, Mercedes, Acura, Cadillac, Lexus, Infiniti , Buick, Chevrolet Impala and yet to be introduced rwd Caprice SS, and Hyundai's premium models. In fact, I read in Motor Trend today that the 2013 Fusion's handling is not as composed as the that of the model it's replacing. The testers found its handling to be retrograde as compared to the 2012 Fusion. But again, only Ford can make the old better than the new. The 2013 Fusion's platform is just another one in a long line of Ford's better cheaper ideas. What a Joke. That can only portend bad things for the 2013 Ford based Lincoln MKZ as well as all future Lincolns that will eventually share the same platform. Performance problems with this platform is probably the reason that the 2013 MKZ is not yet in show rooms. The suspicion is is that Ford is probably trying to mask the platform's design flaws before letting the automotive press put the MKZ through the wringer. It won't matter though because the problem is with the platform and no amount of suspension tuning is going to change that. All its problems will become apparent when pushed really hard when tested against its competitors in the premium field. I suspect if the Lincoln is pitted against another premium brand the premium brand will handle like a premium brand and The Lincoln will handle like a Ford on which it is based. If this is the best that Ford can offer with Lincoln, than woe is Lincoln. Just put a stake in its heart and call it dead.

edward53 · November 2012

My ambition is to make all of Ford's marketing folks and their associates to defend Ford and Lincoln when I offer sound criticism of Ford or Lincoln.

datagen · November 2012

Amen

datagen · November 2012

Mine was a 2009 and when you said Chinese bearings, that explained everything as clear as a bell. In the paint area, you could see in the inside of all the doors where the color faded to the grey undercoat and then to the metal itself. That was just a workmanship issue there no matter by human or robot with a bad configuration file.
Heating Element I agree on, but I will say if it was to become such an issue, don't offer it. I have to wonder why does Ford do their tests (if they really do them) in such controlled cushy environments only later to learn how much a piece of crap their vehicles over all are in the real world. I guest I am asking a question to where I already know the answer, like my wife says, "It's the money honey".
Moon Roof, again agree. I guess I was not upset with the CTS coupe moon roof just going up to vent and back down. Due to the design (which I love) the moon roof can't slide back into the roof, just vent. That was fine with me. Transmission leak, only had 27,000 miles when that happened. Pet Boys discovered it during an oil change. That was when I decided to get rid of it. Steering column motor went out so the tilt would not hold. It was a job just to get it to the dealership. The speaker system was ok when you did not hear any rattling going on, hence the extra insulation. On my CTS, I crank those BOSE up and the only rattling I hear are my ear drums, sweet. There is no one car company out there that has a system that works the way I want. They all have problems and My CTS is no exception. In most cases it is a feature I like in one that is missing in the other. I later learned that much of the CTS systems is in the voice. Rather than you looking on the screen to see traffic problems, the CTS tells you and with the push of a button can perform a reroute. Let me comment on the seats as I can see some talk about them. Yes I agree the seats are softer in the Lincoln than in the CTS. I have also learned that softness comes with a price. In order for them to be softer, the material has to be thinner, which means subject to quicker wear-outs as I learned with my MKZ. It had the softest seats, but when it was time to turn it in, the wear was obvious. I have a Sonata and the CTS with both having firm seats. I will admit I have cushions in both that compensate well but I have not taken a long trip in them yet. I guess like a pair of shoes, gotta break them in heh? :shades:

Lincoln MKS

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