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Lincoln MKS



  • brucelincbrucelinc Posts: 815
    The cabin filter is located behind the glovebox. The access door has little tabs. You lift up and pull.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Thank you very much. I was just returning to the site to say I located, just where you say it is.
    I had been doing a lot of searching and became convinced it must exist since it is listed under several manufacturers for 2010 MKS. Purolator even has a chart for instructions by their part number. Alas the MKS part number is not in that chart. I found where others were trying to find that filter on Taurus and said to be behind glove box. I also learned there are filters under front seats for cooling seats. Someone posted that it cost him $41 each on his vehicle, and they are rather small. Look sort of like a filter for some gas masks.
    Fortunately mine appear like new.
    The CAF is a different story. Impossible to tell if it was ever replaced, unless I can dig records, and it is FOMOCO. Rather dirty, but not needing immediate replacement with another Ford one. What surprised me is it is not a carbon impregnated filter. It is made of what appears to be long fibered glass in part and appears to be a quality filter.
    I likely will not find the filtration specs of Ford filter.
    I will be replacing as soon as I research alternatives. I will be getting carbon impregnated to remove any objectionable odors. A bit difficult to tell for sure, but it appears that it would filter both outside and recirculated air. I can say that it seems something is getting past it from the outside. When running in that position, I've been getting the feeling of being dirtied by pollen. I have terrible allergies to some irritants and besides bothering sinuses it will make my exposed skin itch.
    Therefore I will search for a filter that is capable of fine filtration without obstruction of air flow, even if that means changing more frequently since it may plug by catching the finer debris.
    And that said, a caution for those who have not serviced, if plugging up, it will effect heating and cooling system. First it will strain the fan motor because it won't be able to properly move air. And it will then make problems with AC. Not having sufficient air moving across evaporator will at least decrease efficiency of system. And depending upon if it is a pressure related cycling system, it could run with much higher head pressures than necessary causing extra wear on the compressor. A harder working compressor will die earlier and eat more fuel.
    Sadly the only mention of existance is in the scheduled maintenance which says inspect at 7500 miles, replace at 15K, if it exists.
    Thanks again bruce.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    edited April 2012
    Oops! It is mentioned at the last part of the section on A/C, but nothing in the index.
    I've since downloaded the pdf version, which is searchable.
    I've also pulled my filter and it's not near as plugged as I would have suspected considering the heavy pollen around here. I suspect that is because I most of the time run the system in recirculate. And because of my sensitivity to pollen, dust, etc. I feel like it is still coming in with outside air. And although it appears to be of quality manufacturer, I can not find any specs as to how small of particles it will remove. It obviously is not carbon impregnated which means it is not designed to remove odors like some are.
    I have ordered an alternative filter that at least gave size specs for removal and is impregnated with a biocide. It is the same chemical and manufacturer of filters for clean environments such as hospitals. Since this filter also functions for the recirculate I thought this would be a good choice because it will stopped trapped particles from releasing mold spores or other potentially bad bacteria. And that is possible from past experience. I had bought a used Sable and after some time I noticed that it was putting less air out of vents in the outside position than recirculate. I later discovered that it had a CAF and eventually found it. Found it coated with a layer that peeled away like a blanket. The quality of that filter was so good it merely had to be thoroughly washed and then good as new.
    Happy motoring.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    If you have been searching for an alternate CAF since the Ford will not remove odors, caution, WIX has a bad listing for 2010.
  • joshcsjoshcs Posts: 8
    What would be a minimum to average credit score to lease a Lincoln? Any model...
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 11,042
    Your question might be "buried" in this discussion and not noticed by those who can offer advice. You might try posting in our General Questions about Leasing discussion, where it's more likely to get feedback.


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  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    To date, I've had the TSB for front brakes and 2 damaged door seals replaced. Not a big deal. I suspect there may be an issue with the rear as well. Next time they clean my car at dealer, or anywhere, I will ask to be careful about getting product on rotors. First sensation is decreased braking, then with more braking/heating of it, grabbing sensation starts. Relative to the rear brakes, it compounded the sensation of the rear brakes not handling their fair share. lurching and nose dropping with braking. I will wait and see if cleaning residues continue concern.
    With door seals replaced, I can now pursue bad air entering. I've had field dust coming in as well as some odors when running in recirculate.
    I'd appreciate any input on possibilities.
    So far, the likely suspect is the recirculate door. You know the fan noise level changes if switching between inside and outside air. I noticed yesterday that there is some variance with the fan set to constant speed. Perhaps running a calibration routine of doors will fix. Maybe the door motor.
    Also I noticed a air leak location. Front of front door where two door panels meet, the door seal is not able to seal that channel. Some sort of filler to level the surface would work. Also aiding in stopping noise penetration.
    Wow, new door seals are much firmer. A heavier door swing to close is needed. It would be nice if they stay that way.
    Also had one time event of braking pulling car to one side then later to the other. Possibly new front brakes, so it is wait and see. They would have been well broken in, so hope it is not a lube or slide issue.
    And it would make me happy if the engine cutout was just an anomaly. Driving steady speed, for just a moment, engine cut. Either an ignition or fuel circuit hiccup.
    The slight wheel play is also wait and see. I wish it gone but mostly hope it don't get worse. Smiling but not quite ear to ear.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    I was tickled happy when I read the list of good luxury cars to own. The MKS was second on the list. Although the determination was likely subjective, they used Edmonds total cost of ownership in the determination. The initial costs used appeared to be for base models. And what was striking about the MKS was the percentage of vehicle price for added costs was relatively low. If you've never looked, those figures are for maintenance, depreciation, fuel, insurance, etc. The first on the list was the Hyundai Genisys, two Hyundai on list, but vehicles that started in the $70's and 80's also.
    Happy Motoring
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Got my first paint chip on hood. Suspect is wife who likes to follow too damn close. Any experience in fixing? I'd like to know.
  • akirbyakirby Posts: 8,040
    Touch up kits work well. I use .
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Thanks. I'll take a look at what they have. Issue I've seen in past is getting it to match level.
    I've actually got two places. When they hung the front panel for painting, there was some run to a pointed corner where a glob accumulated. It broke while I was washing car.
    I think I presumed the tri-coat included a clear coat.

    I also need to check out foam availability for doing the fix for lower door splatter. On white it really looks nasty. And I'll look for some thin stuff to act as filler to plug that leak at the front inside edge of door.
  • akirbyakirby Posts: 8,040
    Paintscratch gives you everything to make it level including separate basecoat/clearcoat and even rubbing compound and sandpaper if you're willing to invest the time.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Maybe not. They say there is a mid-coat on the tri-coat white, but it is not shown as part of the kit for mine. It shows the rubbing, sandpaper, base coat and clear coat only in the kit.
  • akirbyakirby Posts: 8,040
    Sure it does.

    Since this is a tricoat paint, all prices below include the basecoat and midcoat paint layers

    The Tricoat paint includes both the basecoat and midcoat. I ordered the Pen version of the kit in the same white platinum tricoat a couple of years ago. You get all 3 coats.

    You can also note that the price of the Tricoat column is almost twice what the basecoat costs in a non tricoat color.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    Even in recirculate, a small amount of outside air is mandated to be brought in to keep positive pressure in the cabin, so that exhaust gasses are sucked in. Unlikely, but a safety matter. Therefore, you may get a whif of dust. Usually your cabin filter will resolve it quickly.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Do you know how that is accomplished, the extra air? CAF, unlike some earlier FLM, is not carbon impregnated or of fine filtration. It is much like the paper used on the engine air filter, only designed to catch bigger particles.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    A couple of days ago I had to hit brakes as a bit of panic. Fortunately situation cleared because the brakes did not do as expected.
    It feels like full apply does not occur immediately. Slight pedal travel before resistance and start of apply. But a lot of travel beyond that, using much force, before full braking and maybe ABS activation.
    Anyone have any ideas about this?
    It is definitely not braking like anything else where I've had to stop hard.
    Is there a way to temporarily disable ABS to see if that changes anything?
    Definitely not feeling safe and seems intermittant.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    A few days back, being farther in the country, on the drive home I noticed that something was getting in with the air. It made all my exposed skin irritated and bothered sinus. I realized that it was not in recirculate, too late. Switching it, did not seem to clear the air.
    It was not until I was near back to the island that the thought occured that if I manually cranked up fan speed it was force more filtering of the air already inside vehicle, to the limit of the filter anyway. That either helped or I was already in cleaner air.
    As to that positive air flow being required, I certainly can do without it. I am going to attempt sealing cabin better and may start with the advice for sealing lower area of doors against splash, thanks to poster.
    Letting me know any areas of outside air intrusion are appreciated. Thank you.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    Is there a way to temporarily disable ABS to see if that changes anything?

    That won't change anything. Different brake pads will make them more grabby, if that's what you want. Ford has probably used ceramic pads, which last forever, but IMO, don't stop worth a damn.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Maybe not as to changing something, if switched off. Just a trouble-shooting technique. It would depend upon how the components are connected.
    Grabby pads can't be the issue unless something else is not functioning properly.
    There seems like there might be a recovery time of several seconds before full braking is available on a second hard brake.
    Of my many years, many vehicles, I've had a few brake issues. Failing booster, brake hose, sticking caliper, warped rotors, master cylinder, just plain worn out, etc. Each has unique feel and symptoms, although a bad hose and caliper will feel about the same on the pedal. Even had one that any hard braking would result in the back end coming around. Second owner and it still had the brake bleeding tool attached to the diverter/proportioning valve from the factory.
    Symptom wise, current situation feels most like a bad booster with a partial blockage in main brake line.
    Without better troubleshooting, I'd suspect a piece of debris that partially blocks flow to wheels and then maybe before next braking it settles out of way.
    Somewhat of a lack of direct constant proportion between amount of pedal applied and braking acheived at wheel.
    Does this vehicle have what GM bragged about on some vehicles, a pre-charge system?
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    My 2010 MKS definitely does not have the precise tight steering of 2011 Lacrosse CXS with touring pack.
    My intent is to improve that. Doing a bit of left-right-left,etc. sway of steering wheel, it also produces an uneven suspension diagonally. L Front to R Rear is the weaker. Normal driving with bump rate on some roads hints of the same. Before setting out on yesterdays drive I checked tires pressures. The R Rear was 1/2 pound low, but the feel is more than that. Will retest after airing up to make sure.
    This brings to mind a couple of questions.
    Does Lincoln test shipments of struts and shocks and then computer match them per vehicle? I believe I read that was done on Lacrosse. My first thought of that was, "There tolerance of spec is not tight enough to yield consistantly high quality parts." But now wonder if the industry standard is low? Also the question in my mind occured, "What if you needed to replace? Are the new dealer parts boxed and shipped in matched pairs?"
    And has anyone tried a different tire on their Lincoln? I wonder if one with the Euro tread designs that were common on Mercedes and some other vehicles would be a suitable replacement?
    I may have to consider early tire replacement. Dealer had been using a cleanup service when you take in for service or repair. I don't know what they were spraying on my tires but it has caused checking, small cracks, all over the sidewall and over the shoulder onto the outer rib where it naturally flowed with centrifugal force. I questioned the dealer about it approximately 1000 miles ago and they said they no longer use tire dressing, too expensive. And Michelin says that is normal checking. I wonder of those statements. I had seen used Lincolns about the city lots with same condition on some of them. A 2009 had it so bad the sales said they'd replace the tires. I know there were statements that tire dressings would cause that when such first came available to public. I would have thought that had been cured.
    But, the last time they applied I realized there was another major concern. They got overspray all over the brake rotors. That caused poor braking at first. As it cooked, from braking, it changed character of braking again toward grabbing. It took about a 1000 miles of local combined driving before braking returned to near normal. Caution if you use such a product.
    Moving the wheel back and forth, I do feel what amounts to a bit of play. Not real loose play, but perhaps joint play between steering and wheel. Tolerable if it does not get worse, but was tighter when newer.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Still hoping to nail the issue better before I nail something unwanted. Issue is still present and the latest not always repeatable is that an attack at the pedal does not give the feel of immediate full braking available (again, a sometimes issue). Pedal can feel hard simultaneously, but move down slowly with pressure. A feel like maybe the booster is not fully functional.
    I'm hoping the big Lincoln brand will pick up a few features without having to go big packages to get them. I'm thinking the suspension system could use a good tweak or maybe a step in another direction.
    I may have to test drive the latest to see if they ;hit my target.
    There are some movements I find undesireable in high end vehicle. Control I believe can be improved upon without sacraficing smooth ride. One system I experienced halves lateral movement to the cabin via plain hardware. With the newer controls enhancement is a certainty.
    I'm wanting to test drive with the new 3.7 as well. Mileage is supposed to be up and hopefully the upped power will feel more adequate. I've been noticing that my 3.7 feels amazingly smooth and wonder if someone might ask, "Does this have a V8?" But with the power at current compared to others, maybe not.
    I like the AWD idea, but not as it is packaged in MKS. Big price jump along with fuel consumption to get with options I'd want.
  • edward53edward53 Posts: 113
    Since you seem not to be very happy with your MKS, trade it in for Cadillac XTS. It will handle better without the torque steer that the MKS has without AWD. The only difference between Buick and XTS besides price is name and interior. So, if interior appointments or brand name are not that important, go with the Buick.
  • datagendatagen Posts: 107
    I agree with Edwards53, try a caddy. I did and it was a good move for me. The MKS burnt me bad. Much worst than you with the following problems:

    Wheel bearings went out
    2nd rate painting within the doors and interior
    Seat heating element went out
    Moon roof stop working
    Transmission leakage
    Steering (tilt) column went out
    Rear speakers required more installation
    Sync stopped working

    This is what you call a variable lemon. No one thing to concentrate on, just a bunch a other things that can drive you batty. Yes they fixed everything, but by that time I am burnt out. They did not reimburse me for my time and with all of that, I just lost the trust of the vehicle.

    On the other hand my CTS is great. No issues and I wrote a test drive paper on it if you are interested. click on current projects. It is project 8 and click on Test Drive. It is a PDF paper that explains what I discovered.

    Ford has admitted that they still have a ways to go in the quality arena when it comes to high end vehicles. Cadillac is taking on the Europeans and this time, they are not laughing. :shades:
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Not very happy? There are degrees of happy and at least I can say I am not "very un-happy", as I was with my last two GM purchases. I had checked a '12 Caddy and decided the seats in it were very much like the '11 Lacrosse. Too damn hard for a long comfortable ride. At 26K on MKS, seats are far more comfortable than GM's I experienced with 10K. Yes they are showing a bit of aging in the padding, only noticeable by comparing passenger seat, not used much, to driver seat. But enough that I'd consider changing the padding in the future.
    Also I'd appreciate a little more bolster in the seat backs and then there is the horrible headrests resulting from NHTSA ruling around 2009. When the seat is adjusted to give proper posture the headrest frequently bumps the back of my head resulting in neck pain. Something I wish I could find a solution or redesign to. Maybe the automatic headrests would have been a better solution, although NHTSA went so far as to originally say, "Not our way, don't build."
    And since I'm on the seat subject, I'm beginning to believe I have a lumbar leak down issue. And as a starting point, I do not like the single control to what I'm told is actually two bags. I would have bet otherwise on the lacrosse. Maybe it was poor padding, but it felt more like there was a mechanical arm with a roller moving about in the seat. Result being a single pressure point on spine instead of what I had always been able to acheive with the two bags, two controls system. That would be a more fluid curvature of support to my spine. That alone would be an issue, but it also had a problem, leaking down. Dealer was not able to nail the issue. It was too erratic. Sometimes it would deflate in about 3 seconds. Then maybe 20 minutes, or maybe overnight. That made it impossible to tweak for best comfort. Sadly, leak down is now showing up in the MKS. Nothing rapid yet, but overnight or an hour. Fortunately, so far it only requires pumping back out, unlike the Buick that seemed to often lose all sense of position. It is something I will watch more closely because I often don't notice it when I start out. When my back starts aching, that is when I might realize the support is gone.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    What year was yours? About 3 to 5 years back, bearings of all types seemed to be a major issue. Chinese bearings. It was especially obvious in aftermarket where big name auto parts retailers had cut warranty to 30 and 90 days. You definitely had to check for better choices. Even NAPPA had some. Two outlets had bearings that showed obvious reason for short life. The seals actually had a gap at the race seal point. No feathered edge or garter spring to maintain seal.
    Regardless, bearing should not be an issue on vehicle without lots of miles or abuse.
    Paint? I perceive it not as well as maybe it should be. I have a place where paint chipped off. Part was obviously hung while painting and formed a drip glob which has broken off. Can I say, "poor professionalism" when it was likely done by a robot? I glanced at a new one the last time at dealer. Supposed to be a metallic red per sticker. In bright sun there was no hint of any metal-flake what-so-ever. I ask, "How did that get out of the factory?"
    Heating element. Something that requires a good bit of thought/engineering expertise to get it right. Has to be highly flexible, sustain what would be abuse in most other heating applications, and not leave a brand mark on your back side.
    Moon roof. Part of the reason I don't want one. Problematic in many ways and definitely not maintenance free. I'd say regardless of brand there are far more important features requiring attention to design & function.
    Transmission leaking? That sounds potentially serious. And probably falls under that, "don't worry, it's warranteed." Or, hard to make things idiot proof.
    Steering column? What, the motor? Or something else? The manual lock on lacrosse would not lock resulting in column change. New column or workmanship resulted in enough steering play that road imperfections could dart me across road striping and almost resulted in accident.
    Rear speakers? I'd like to know more because I like quality reproduction of music. And GM definitely had poor design issues in that area. Speakers seemed to be low quality on the Harmon_Kardon top system and they employed the old trick of using trunk cavity to boost bass, which in reality most often boosts distortion and channel crosstalk.
    Oh NO! NO SYNC. I can say that so far the system is fully functional as designed. Definitely not so for GM on '11 lacrosse, to the point the only hope is they 'might' recognize a problem and swap the whole unit. GM forums are full of "I had to pull over and restart" to regain functionality.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    A reporter would like to speak to car owners who use Chrysler Uconnect, Cadillac CUE or Ford's MyFord/MyLincoln Touch. If you use any of these telematics systems, please send your daytime contact information to no later than November 20, 2012 at 1 p.m. PT/4 p.m. ET.
  • I'm a petite mom of two boys looking for a nice comfortable car to cruise around town in while doing typical mom stuff, and after scrutinizing every car available, I think this is the car for me. I understand why the reviews criticize this car, but most of their negatives are plusses from my point of view. I like a drivers seat that fits me. I want a lot of room in my car. I want it to have power, but I don't plan on driving the autobahn; I need to be able to merge onto the highway, but once I'm there, I don't plan on driving crazy. MyLincolnTouch is the first tech-y instrument panel that makes logical sense to me and is also aesthetically pleasing.

    By the way, I'm replacing a 2008 CTS that I love, but is a bit on the smallish side now that my kids are growing up. I wanted SOOOOOO much to like the XTS, but after driving it, there are too many things I hate about it, the most prominent being that it feels like you're riding a bicycle in a fat suit. The CUE system is awful, and the smudgy screen doesn't even look good in the showroom. I gave the ATS a try as well, and if I was looking to pay more for a smaller car than I did for my XTS and not even have as much power, well then I suppose it might make sense. Would have loved to have driven the 2.0L Turbo, but guess what - it's not available yet, and none of the reviews out here mention that. I get that I'm just a mom, but puleeze folks...we're not brain-dead. Don't even get me talking about Buicks...they are so overpriced. I've had my GM Mastercard since 1992 and I'm afraid I'm going to have to ditch it because GM doesn't make a car I want to buy.

    BMWs, Audis, and Acuras aren't feminine enough for me. They aren't at all luxurious with all their hard black plastic dashes and ugly seats. And they ride roughly too. The A/C in the BMWs and Audis take an unacceptably long time to cool down the car in the Texas summer heat, which is a total deal-breaker.

    Lexus is just weird these days. I had an ES 300 before my CTS, and it was a nice, comfortable, boring car. Now the dash is just messed up. The GS dash is worse. The LS is too pricey compared to the Lincoln.

    I'm totally perplexed by the ratings given by I'm not sure what they're smoking over there - is the HQ in Colorado???

    No one seems to be talking about how bad the customer service has gotten for the luxury car brands AFTER the sale. They ask you how far you're going to drive and to put gas in it when you return. Often they don't even put you in a luxury loaner...they send you over to Enterprise! That is NOT why I pay a premium price for my cars.

    Volvo's S60 is a nice little car for the $$$, but I like the Lincoln better. That would be a smarter purchase from a depreciation/resale standpoint, but I'm going to buy the Lincoln MKS because I like it better.

    It's a little scary buying a car no one else seems to want to buy, but I've always marched to the beat of my own drum...

    Now, I'm bracing myself for any comments that follow. Let's keep it constructive, folks.
  • Love your attitude, tinkerbell! You don't have to justify your car-buying decisions to anyone.

    Based on your post, I think you will be quite happy with the 2013 MKS. I have a 2010 and have never regretted my purchase - in fact driving to and from work is often the best part of my day. The 2013 is much improved - better brakes, adjustable suspension, more sound insulation, better trunk access, etc.

    Most people who bash the MKS have either never driven one at all - especially a 2013 - or they had issues with a 2009 model. Yes, some 2009s had issues - all correctable - but issues to be sure.

    Really the only reason I chose not to replace my 2010 with a 2013 is that I think the control layout and user interface with MyLincoln Touch is a step backward from the regular Sync/Nav system and combination of touch-screen, knobs and voice commands of the earlier models.

    Enjoy your purchase.
  • edward53edward53 Posts: 113
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