Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair

opera_house_wk · April 2002

Have you ever had the radius arm bushings replaced. Most people I know with early Explorers all had front end alignment problems.

mdey · April 2002

Yes, radius arm bushings left and right replaced at 103,000 miles. Eliminated the clunk, but didn't do much to tighten things up.

mstan · April 2002

Have a 94 Explorer. Back in November I had the tranny replaced. This past week the front tires started to feel like they were wobbling. Took it to the local tire dealer & he checked the tires and driveshaft, etc - He felt the wobble too - nothing with the tires or front end! Before I could say anything, he mentioned the tranny because he said when he drove it and dropped it into neutral the wobble stopped. You can really feel it when you get up some speed. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks.

cediadude · April 2002

Greetings all!

I had the cam tensioner changeout done at around 65K miles. Now it's back, and I find after reading the posts that Ford isssued a 72K/6yr program change that leaves me out in the dark. I have heard that the original replacement fasteners were made out of nylon and have subsequently been replaced with steel ones. Is this true? Do I have a snowball's change in Hades to get the dealer to change them out again at no/low cost? I would have loved to get a note from the dealer - they always seem to find time to remind me about things I can do myself like change the oil, but if it's related to a recall - I guess not. FYI to all, I never got the notice from Ford - am I the only one or did they miss others who already had the work done as well?

waarce · April 2002

Probably the O/D sensor may have gotten disconnected or loose. It takes 5 seconds to reconnect. Try this, it happened to me before.

df1437 · April 2002

Had the same problem as Lariat10 in Message #1290 at 54,000 miles in September 2001--OD light and all. Ford dealer replaced a broken band bracket in transmission at a cost of $1300 which repair was guaranteed 12,000 miles or 12 months (thank heavens). Of course, it happened a few months after my extended warranty expired. That fix lasted about 1000 miles when experienced similar failure. This time, they replaced a sensor. That lasted about 3000 miles when had a failure of a little less magnitude than first two times. Dealer had it five weeks (good thing they loaned me a car) to replace a stabilizer bar in transmission, and I don't know what else. Got it back first week in April 2002, and it did the same thing once so far. Haven't taken it back yet. May be a sensor problem again? Ford Customer Care says they have nothing on file to indicate this is more than a one-off problem which I find extremely difficult to believe.

df1437 · April 2002

Every time my Explorer goes up on a lift, when I get it back, the ride feels like it's in four-wheel offroad even though the indicator is in two-wheel. Also seems like it's sitting higher than normal--even though you can get the air shocks to jack it up by turning dial to 4-wheel or 4-wheel offroad settings. Always before, we have turned off the air ride system for a few days, and it somehow seemed to go back to a normal comfortable ride where we could turn it back on and experience the "luxury ride". However, this time has been the exception. Does anyone have any ideas? I'm wondering if it could be some type of sensor problem. Will probably end up taking it back to dealer, but not in much hurry after they just had it for five weeks reworking a warranted transmission repair! Thanks.

mstan · April 2002

94 Explorer - Had ther tranny replaced in November. On a Saturday in January I had a very difficult time getting the car to shift from park to reverse to drive and vice versa. Took it to the tranny garage. Couldn't find a thing. No problems until 2 days ago and the same thing happens. Took it to Ford garage - they said it might be the cable from the steering column - they used to fray on the older models - but mine was not. Didn't want to open up the whole steering columns and not find anything. Any suggestions.

swschrad · April 2002

lube the linkage at the transmission with white lithium grease, and the end of the Bowden cable connecting to it where the cable comes out of the sheath, that's a common issue. it is also possible they kinked the sheath when doing the tranny replacement, see if NAPA still has lubrication kits for these control cables and try that to lube the cable all the way along its sheath.

scooty · April 2002

The warranty period for cam tensioner problem is 7 year/100,000 miles for Explorers built from July '96 to October '98 according to BlueOvalNews.com.I had my '97 Explorer tensioners replaced at 40,000 miles with the new metal ones.It has 62,000 miles on it now with no problems.If your Explorer is a '99 or later model,I do not know if it has the same warranty as a '97 or '98,but if it has under 100,000 miles I would call a Ford Rep and see if they could be replaced with the new ones by a Ford dealer for free.Call and raise Cain.Sometimes Ford can surprise you.

njdevilsrn · April 2002

Hello all. Boy it was quiet in here for a while!

I wish it was that quiet in my truck. My 2000 XLS started to exhibit a rattle/squeak from the B pillar this past week. It happens when going over bumps, and depending on the speed and/or whether I am at a bend in the road it is louder or quieter. I read Ryster's many problems with a bad welding job on his 2000 XLS and I hope I am not in for the same.

I'm particularly frustrated, as this wonderful Ford vehicle just had a new transmission put in last month with 21,000 on the odometer.

ryster · April 2002

Hi!

Just out of curiosity, when was your Explorer built? Mine was built 5/00 (according to the sticker on the door). Maybe there are a string of Explorers with bad welds?

Later!

njdevilsrn · April 2002

My truck was built in June, 2000 at the St. Louis plant.

Funny as it seems, today it really wasn't making too much racket after days of it getting worse and worse. I definitely will get it looked at soon, though.

dixarone · April 2002

...What is the "B" pillar? Also, what type of behaviour is exibited by a vehicle with faulty cam tensioners?

Aw heck, may as well ask one more question while I'm signed in here...my steering column seems to have aquired a squeak when going over rough patches in the road. Thoughts?

I think I have pinpointed the area of concern regarding my previous postings on my rattle/clicking noise from the front passenger side of my 97 Explorer...it seems the rubber stripping along the door and into the windshield area is somewhat loose - the clicking (I think) comes from it heating up, expanding, and sticking to another piece of stripping in the same area. I'm not sure if I can do anything about it, but I can replicate the sound now, and sort of make it disappear by manipulating the rubber bits in that area.

njdevilsrn · April 2002

Sorry, I was speaking from my days of doing vehicle rescue. The "A" pillar (post) is the post between the windshield and the front door. The "B" pillar (post) is the pillar between the front and rear doors (or hatch in a 2 door). The letters continue as you move back.

Still looking for a cause, have not found one. I am sure this will be another one to be chalked up in the dealer's "could not duplicate" column.

mazman1 · April 2002

Are you sure that the noise / squeak you are hearing is not coming from the front door where it latches to the post on the b pillar. I had a similar thing happen. I tore the door apart looking for something loose. I tore the b pillar apart. Found nothing until I tried driving with the door open (I had someone with good insurance hold the door open) and had no noise. Then I adjusted the position of the latch post to move the door closer to the vehicle and the noise is now gone.

Mine was built in 10.2000 and was built in St. Louis.

Good luck.

njdevilsrn · April 2002

I will see if that helps, because it does sound like it is coming from either the back of the front door, the post, or the front of the back door. I might as well try to diagnose it myself and then let the dealer fix it.

It's under warranty, and I finally caved today and made an appointment for next week.

PS...My truck is 21 months old with just over 22,500 miles on it. When should I get the radiator flushed and coolant changed?

swschrad · April 2002

you're about where I am on mine... I have 2 years 1 month, and I will get it done before winter. I am toying with getting my 30,000 transmission flush and fill done early, before a July vacation, and I probably will because I will have my first tow (light one, 1300#) on. obviously want to run on it a while before going ten yards past the end of the logging road.

ryster · April 2002

Hi!

Just as a follow-up to mazman about the noise with door open. My truck clunked from the b-pillar area even with my door open during driving. Despite that, the dealer tore the door apart before even attempting to look at other possible sources of the noise.

Here's a question for all: In the process of getting my b-pillar fixed months ago, the door panel was removed and replaced so many times it is now warped. What would be the odds of having a dealer (other than the one who did the b-pillar repair) replace the door panel under warranty? There are also some loud ticking/rattling noises in the door that were not there before. Probably due to the door not being reassembled correctly after the whole repair job was done.

I also have a loud rattle in the dash. Wonder if the dealer can fix that without removing the dashboard? If not, I would rather live with the rattle; it's too hard to remove and replace dashes without causing even more problems.

Oh yeah, there is also a fix for the problem that '98-'01 Explorers have where the rear wiper will not sweep the whole rear window. Ford has a redesigned rear wiper arm they can install on the vehicles.

These are such annoying little problems. Kind of sad to have them on a 17 month old vehicle with only 22,000 miles. If the truck had 50,000 miles I would be more tolerant. It could be worse, I suppose

Later!

bioman3 · April 2002

Ryster, you're right it could be much worse. You could have purchased a GMC Jimmy!!

ssminton · April 2002

The wiper on my '99 Mountaineer has never cleanly swept the window. Dealer has tried to fix it several times but still misses approx 30 degrees. How recently did Ford develop a new arm. My dealer says they have replaced arm but problem continues. Unfortunately every time they take the rear hatch apart, it rattles more so I have just learned to live with the problem. I have owned 2 previous explorers '92/'95 and never experienced this problem.

smily1 · April 2002

I took mine apart and found that the brackets are too weak and bend over time. I tried to fix it myself but failed. I took it to the dealer to make an appointment and the service walked up to the wiper and bent the arm toward the window. Its been fine ever since. Made me feel a little stupid...

swschrad · April 2002

now why didn't I think of that? got a 30-degree "skip" in the middle where only half the blade is on the glass. I will take a couple fingers to my arm tomorrow and see bout that.

ssminton · April 2002

I and the dealer have bent the arm, with no success. In fact coverage is getting worse. I have owned three Explorer products, and although I have experienced recurring problems on each, this is not one of them. This is the only truck that has had this wiper issue. At this point... I try to ignore it. I have come to learn there are just some things you can't fix on Explorers, no matter how many times you try. We are all familiar with that quirky smile the service manager gives you when your regular maintenance list includes the rear wiper blade and accelerator stickiness items.

After 10 years of Explorer products, its a love/hate relationship. Numerous times I have said to myself, "I will not by another Explorer product", I mean it this time. I can deal with the maintenance issues, for I have a wonderful dealer that goes out of their way to take care of me (actually the key learned here is buy a Mountaineer... Mercury/Lincoln dealer service is so much better) and an extended warranty (a must on any 4WD SUV). The final straw for me is the recent death of Explorer resale value.

For years I have said if I could only get a Honda Accord in the shape of an Explorer? My prayers have been answered, with my Pilot arriving in early June. I think I will just deal with the rear wiper 'til then. Heck... I have not been able to see clearly out the back window for almost three years, why start now?

ryster · April 2002

My parents had the new, redesigned arm installed on their '00 Mountaineer last week. Their rear wiper motor had failed. While they were replacing the motor, my dad told them the rear wiper didn't sweep the window completely. At that point they said they would install the redesigned arm under warranty as well. All fixed! Works great now.

swschrad · April 2002

so I will inquire about the new arm next time I'm in for a oil change.

mazman1 · April 2002

The wiper problem is a known problem with all 1998 and later model Explorers. If you dont have the problem, you will. The only way to avoid it is either dont use the wiper at all or dont drive in the rain. The mounting bracket is made out of junk and the motor just wobbles as it turns. Just watch the base of the arm as the arm wipes the glass... it kind of bumps up and causes the arm to miss the secton of glass at the 1 o'clock position. I think they fixed the problem with the 2002 model, but I am not sure.

Regarding trany flushes. A flush is different from just changing the fluid. A flush will run you about $200. It involves removing all the fluid and replacing the fluid in the torque converter as well.. and a new tranny filter. A flush will remove a lot of gunk and deposits from the seals. Just changing the fluid (costs about $40) is usually inadequate, unless you only want to use the vehicle for 36K miles or 3 years, whichever comes first.

Regarding Radiator flushes, should do this every other year, before winter or before summer (the two most stressful seasons on your vehicle)... Regardless of mileage.

Good luck
Mazman

smily1 · April 2002

Well I guess I will consider the "bend" a temporary fix. Mazman is right, the internals are made of junk, built truly by the lowest bidder. Im sorry that you folks didnt have such luck with the bend.

swschrad · April 2002

wasn't a total loss, smily1, I got a little more coverage out of the arm at 1-o'clock after bending a little. but that hula-bracket on the motor does make for a very dynamic system.

njdevilsrn · April 2002

Swschrad...You should try to get a job at Ford in their marketing division. Referring to the garbage they put into our $30,000 SUVs as "dynamic" is truly something I've never heard before.

Way to go!!!

PS...The Exploder goes in Thursday for the rattle...I think it is the door and the way it is secured to the B Post when closed, but strangely enough it does not make the sound when someone rides in the passenger's seat. Maybe a little pressure on the door from someone resting their arm on it causes it to sit a little more snug?

swschrad · April 2002

Apple Computer is justly famous for describing in the glossary of the Red Book (original Apple II documentation)

BUG: feature as described by our marketing department.

and it beats trying to sneak stuff in here that would make a chief petty officer blush with embarassment

ssminton · May 2002

Does anyone notice that the infamous driver's door creak tends to come and go? Some weeks it drives me nuts in stop and go traffic and then it can be silent for periods? This is one issue I have never brought to the dealer's attention, but if their is a "fix" out there, I would love to know what it is?

njdevilsrn · May 2002

You are right on with that rattle coming and going. Mine was largely quiet for the past week or so, but reappeared on Tuesday. I had to cancel my appointment for them to look at my door tomorrow, I have way too much to do to be without my truck for a day just to have a rattle looked at. I will have it looked at next month when it goes for 24000 mile service.

ssminton · May 2002

The good news on the door rattle is that you will live through it. I am normally very sensitive to rattles, but after 75K miles in 2 years, it really has not bothered me much. I seem to be more annoyed by the noise my winter chains box makes as it floats around the cargo space in the winter. Also, after all the driving I have done, the rattle isn't any worse than it was on day 1.

dfwhall · May 2002

3rd explorer V8. '96, '97 Mountaineer and a '99Limited. The Limited has been JUNK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!. 3 fuel pumps, 1 throttle body, 1 wiper switch, 1 rear wiper motor, differential rebuilt, 2 new track bars and 6 months of electrical problems that rendered the windows and sunroof inop but did not blow fuses! Now it has developed a habit of shutting off when it wants to! No problems Found !? I fixed the drivers door creak myself. Removed the 3 screws(1 at a time) and squirted Loctite silicone sealer in the holes and then reinserted each screw. Took care of 90% of the creak. Rear wiper coverage was never fixed by the dealer. I bought a new arm, installed it myself and bent it to work. Now it covers the entire rear window.I am now selling this thing and will not buy another Ford!

dfwhall · May 2002

I'm new to this chat stuff and it sure is intersting to read everyone elses probs with good ol' Ford. RE: door panel noises. I removed each door panel, replaced the black fasteners that attach the panel to the door and put a wad of Loctite silicone sealant (magic stuff, works for all kinds of things!)on the "barbs" of the fasteners before inserting back into holes of door. Once the silicone is dry (24hrs), door panels are quieter than when they were new!

ssminton · May 2002

As an owner of a '99 Mountaineer and the previous owner of '92 and '95 Explorer's, I feel your pain. I, too, am in the market for a replacement. Have you considered the new Honda Pilot? Vehicle interest not too high yet as general advertising has not yet begun. I put my name on a list back in March and expect to get a vehicle by early June. Sticker will be comparable to Explorer, maybe even a bit less. Just something to consider. Trust me I know the "Explorer" bug is tough to get rid of because the trucks have generally been better than their competition in the past. Now that there are better options in the marketplace, it is time to move forward. Purposefully, I did not even test drive the 2002, even though Edmunds ranked it #1 on their 2002 SUV ratings. The truck is fine unless you plan to drive it over 50K miles or want to sell it for decent value. Good luck with the new vehicle.

opera_house_wk · May 2002

I just had the metal rivet break that's in the plastic gromit just below the latch. Electric lock wouldn't work on the drivers door. Couldn't get the rivet out without removing the swing bracket and getting the solenoid back into the bracket is next to impossible in the confined space. Now the protective boot is all torn up. Working on doors is just the biggest pain. No wonder they get $400 to work on what should be simple jobs!

jscatena · May 2002

I have a 2002 Eddie Baure and seem to be haring air noise around the inside of the back doors. Any ideas where this wind noise is coming from? Any previous complaints>

opera_house_wk · May 2002

They recently started this service nation wide. My 97 Explorer has a P0442 small evaporative leak. It has happened twice in the last 4 weeks. Now, don't everyone tell me it's a loose gas cap. Passed emissions testing a couple months ago with high pressures on tank and cap. Anyone with a similar experience. Big leak would be easier to find.

smily1 · May 2002

JK

I had the same code come up a while back. The gas cap was not loose but marred. A brillo pad to smooth out the lip and a new cap took care of the leak. It seems that when you pump gas that it is very easy to ding the filler lip causing small leaks. If all else fails just go around the car and tighten every stinking fuel line connection you can find. That should take care of it.

jackka · May 2002

Can anyone give me a long term owner's report on the 4.0 SOHC V6. I'm interested in your observations on reliability and maintenance.

Thanks.

4dunes · May 2002

I have a '97 Explorer, 4.0 SOHC 6cyl.-89K currently.
Love all the bells and whistles. Seems like I can not give it away. Trade-in on internet ranges from $8,900 to $10,700(checking 3 sites). The best I have been offered is $7,200.
Figures with all the creaks and roars.
Purchased w/ 46K two years old-maybe my mistake?
1. Rear glass never opened. Back door locks defective-even with child locks off, passengers get stuck and have to wait for assistance to get out.
2. Tire recall. Blew that one-had one to fall apart PRIOR to the recall. Ended up replacing all at my expense.
3.Upper and lower intake gaskets replaced at 57K.
Later showed up on a recall.
4.Camshaft chain pretensioner. Done on recall at 80K though had problems for quite awhile prior to discovering source. Took in at 76K and was told it checked ok.
5. Transmission. Currently "roaring" though transmission shop is not sure that transmission is causing it, as it makes noise while vehicle is sitting still. Slipping in 2nd. Estimate for transmission repair-$260-$1,200, they don't know for sure until they get the transmission out.
6.Suspension-every little dent in the road the vehicle dips and rolls, creaks, moans, and complains.
7.A/C- Have just spent $180 to have accumulator replaced. Problem still not fixed.
8.Throttle body plate-recall.
9.Hearing an "air noise". Could be vacuum? Compression? Idling roughly, and don't know about this yet, could be something, could be nothing. First things first. Don't know where to start.

Other minor irritations: automatic headlights have a mind of their own-regardless of day or night. Rear door handle no longer operates.
Heat/ac controls now making noises when changing selection. Lumber support in driver's seat will not stay inflated.

A note on transmission. I had the vehicle checked out by a Ford Dealership prior to purchase from another source. Checked okay, but transmission fluid was dirty. I immediately had replaced, and again at 84K. That was 38K apart. Don't know if that is often enough? Have only used the 4WD on hard surface roads, perhaps twice a year in incliment weather.

jackka · May 2002

Thanks for a really comprehensive response.

My interest is in the engine because I'm considering buying a Ranger with the 4.0 SOHC.

I can't find a Ranger owner with a long term report because they only began using that engine in 2001.

Your observations will help. Thanks again.

mookie14 · May 2002

have a 2000 explorer xls made in st louis when im at a stop i hear a loud vibration inside the cabin or the truck what could that be. also my abs light came on and went out should i be concerned? when i start it up of course all the lights come on but when i start the engine the abs comes on and goes out is that normal? 8-03 is the date when im done with this thing plus is fords lincoln or mercury division good in terms of reliablity? thanks. ps its a 4.0 sohc carbon maker very bad engine nothings good about it

4dunes · May 2002

As you are mainly interested in this engine-try the following posts- for the most part, they are really scaring me.

382, 386, 404, 415, 417, 423, 426, 430, 431, 437, 440.

I am sure there are more posts in regards to the SOHC, but at this point I pretty much got the message.

Good Luck,

4dunes

swschrad · May 2002

on engine start, all the panel lights should come on and then go out, including ABS. if the ABS light comes on at any other time, there is a code set in the braking system computer. if it flashes once and doesn't signal again, it might just be a cruddy wiring connection to a wheel sensor someplace, and opening the connector to the harness, squirting in some dielectric grease, and reconnecting them ought to take care of that issue. if not, it needs diagnosis.

as for the noise at idle... 4.0 SOHC has had a long history of crappy cam locating and tensioning blocks in the head, because the original design of the engine used nylon parts that couldn't stand the gaff. Ford has done a recall on those heads. if the noise you have sounds like a diesel engine or a whacking sound, get thee to a dealer and check it out.

there are also lots of other issues that could be generating cabin noise... I have had a little exhaust leak come and go header-to-Y-pipe. if the exhause system has ever had any parts put in it, that is the first place I would look, something mounted with wrong clearance and banging on something.

there have been a lot of screams about Ford issues on these boards, chiefly the 4.0 SOHC, matching trannies that lost overdrive (some expensive internal parts, some grease gooping up a sensor), and rattles in or near doors.

I've got a 2000 Limited AWD V8 that has had a rotten oil pressure sender replaced due to a bad parts run, one rattle that keeps turning up in body cladding bolts being misthreaded and jammed here and there in the front left side, a turn/flasher switch replaced... thank goodness, a Ford replacement of >= KILLER TIRES! tm <=... and no other issues at all, solid and serious.

jackka · May 2002

I checked those posts as you suggested.

Thanks a lot. That's better than finding out the hard way.

opera_house_wk · May 2002

I bought a 97 and my rear doors also wouldn't open from the inside. Previous owner tried so hard that he broke both inside door handle assemblies, the little plastic gear. I put new handles in and gently worked the inside handles as I oiled the latch mechanism for 20 minutes. Then everything started working fine. I think pressure washing causes this to easily freeze up. The design just doesn't have a real positive feel to it. The link easily bends if it encounters any restriction.

mookie14 · May 2002

1st im out warranty with the exhaust so ford wont do nothing except the catalytic. 2nd you said something about the engine cam recalled the sound im taliking about is just a um vibrating sound deafeaning at times and not some times. as for the abs all lights come on. when i start the engine the abs comes on and goes out should i get it checked out? side note this is a leased truck so if only for safety issues what should i do it goes back to ford in 03 august thanks. ps my warranty is from warranty gold so i guess thats it

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