Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair

swschrad · April 2003

or, maybe not. either it's a wiring short in the looming coming out the door, or the controller module is nuts, or a door sensor is chattering. spray the pinlocks down their little moving shafts with WD40 as a first step in diagnosing this.

stubborn1 · April 2003

... I would miss all those strange looks I get when trying to unlock my door in a parking lot when my hands are full and the vehicle keeps locking me out

I had thought about going to the junkyard and trying to find a replacement lock module after I traced down the wiring. Just one more thing to my summer project list.

bioman3 · May 2003

Since it is springtime I decided to give my 99 XLT 4WD 46K a quick undercarriage inspection. I found a small tear in the left upper ball joint boot. Little if anything seems to have leaked out of the joint. I repaired the tear with cyanoacrylic cement and silicone sealer. The truck is running fine. Checked out the left front wheel and there is no radial or axial play in the ball joints. Will I get "typical" ball joint failure symptoms if indeed the ball joint is failing? Has the clock started ticking on replacing the upper control arm? Is the replacement of the upper arm as easy as it looks?

Thanks, in advance, for the input.

swschrad · May 2003

if you got it before dirt and water got in (screw the grease, most of it is there to prevent contamination,) you're OK for a good while.

if not, dragging sounds, squeaks, and knocks on turns will soon appear.

pnice2003 · May 2003

well im back from the lincoln dealer after having it serviced, they said it was low on tranny fluid. i told them how do you think it got that way cause theres a leak, i saw the stains in my driveway. they said they couldnt find a leak.Then i asked them, why wasnt the tranny fluid topped off when the car was prepped for delivery? it should have been they said. poor excuse. So long story short, the tranny is still slipping from 1st to 2nd gear. Maybe ill try a different dealer who isnt in a rush to get their loaner car back. location long island,ny

heintz1 · May 2003

You'll find "transfer case" leak issues in the recent postings at the Explorer/MTNR board here at Edmonds. Your transfer case may not be what's leaking, but you should probably take a look at these postings.

alman08 · May 2003

hmmmm... and these transmissions do not come with dipsticks. I wonder now how many others are having the same problem.

javner · May 2003

Hopefully you guys can offer some insight...

Yesterday my wife started our Explorer and it proceeded to fill the garage with gray smoke. The vehicle was cold (off for a few hours). It continued to do it for a few minutes until she turned it off. We had it towed to the dealer in case it was something major. When they put it on the truck it smoked a little (blue smoke) and didn't smell very good.

Got a call from the dealer telling me they think it was because the oil hasn't been changed for 7000 miles. They put new plugs in and are changing the oil. The vehicle was going in this week regardless for the 15k service (16,500). I know it's late but we have been busy.

I have a really hard time beleiving that this problem is caused by old oil that looked pretty clean to me on the dipstick last weekend when I checked the level. Also I am surprised that Ford's diagnostic equipment can not provide any better information. Other than very slight hesitation when starting lately it has been running fine with no decrease in mileage. Sounds to me like this dealer is looking for a quick fix that will cause me to go back again for this problem.

Any thoughts? Thanks!

heintz1 · May 2003

Is your engine a V6 or V8? Any chance your head gasket might be leaking coolant into the engine? Did the blue smoke smell "bittersweet", kinda like partially burned coolant? (For what it's worth, my 2002 V8 XLT's engine has always run smooth-as-silk, without any hesitation, abnormal exhaust, etc.) Also, it could be that engine oil is somehow getting into the cylinders, creating thick, blue, "burnt rubber" smelling exhaust smoke.

dtownfb · May 2003

What you described does not sound like an "old oil" problem to me? How long has it been between oil changes (timewise)? 7000 miles is a little long but my 96 Explorer calls for 5000 miles between oil changes for highway. So 7000 miles is not too much of a stretch.

i tend to agree with heintz. I would check your coolant level and keep an eye on that for the next several months. Also check the receipt carefully when you get the car back to see what else they may have done.

swschrad · May 2003

I would be on the phone asking if they have checked for head gasket issues, and be sure they put the code for that test on the work order. if you have a document that says "check for broken X" and X later turns up broken after a bunch of "trouble not founds" you have a nice way to get Ford to 'fess up and fix it for you free.

explorerx4 · May 2003

My wife's taurus used to have a similar problem on occasion (maybe 3 times in 5 years). If you started the car, ran it for a short time, then turned it off, it would have a hard time starting, and when it did, it would emit a large amount of very smelly smoke. An example I remember was when I washed the car, then pulled it into the garage and turned it off. The next morning we had a smoking episode. The AAA guy said fords seemed most prone to this. I hope your issue isn't any more serious than this.

opera_house_wk · May 2003

My transfer case rear shaft seal has been leaking since I bought it over a year ago. Been meaning to do it. I even bought an $8 seal eight months ago. Just kept topping off the fluid. Finally decided to do it since I will be going on a long vacation. Drive shaft removes with 12mm 12 point socket and the shaft flange takes a 30 mm or 1 3/16 socket. There is an O ring under the washer. Mine came out in one piece but you better be prepared if it doesn't. Seal surface needed just a little fine grit paper polishing in oil. With the shaft seal removed, I could see the pink speedometer gear. Looked that up on the chart and it was a 19 tooth. The speedometer has always read 7-10 mph fast. Never bothered me that much but my better half is math challenged. Went to the dealer and got a red 21 tooth C4O-17271-A gear, $7.63. 70 mph X 19/21 = 63 mph. Remove the VSS on the transfer case and it just snaps in with a clip. I had wondered how they change the number of teeth on the same diameter, they sure get thin. Guess the last owner must have had some monster tires. These gears go from 16 to 21 so you can adjust for different axle and tire sizes.

javner · May 2003

Thanks for your replies!

It is the V6, and up until this eposide the truck has run great. Much better than our 2000 with the underpowered V6, that's for sure.

I agree with all of you...don't think it is an old oil issue either...even though that is what the service department sent me away with. Unfortunately they didn't look to hard either. About the only thing they did was change the plugs to see if they were fouled and charged Ford for new oil. What burns me is that they charged me for an oil change as part of the 15k service too, but that's another story.

Thank you for the suggestions regarding it being related to head gasket. I will keep a close eye on the coolant. Guess we'll have to wait and see if it happens again. Also, as always I'll keep an eye on oil consumption to see if I'm loosing it somewhere. It's running smoothly now, so we'll wait and see.

Something else: has anyone noticed that Ford Service Techs can't check tire presure...even after the issues with Firestone etc. Drives me crazy when I pay someone to rotate tires and then to discover my fronts are at 35psi and the rears are at 30psi! Easier to take care of it myself than go back to the dealer, but seriously...how hard is it?

Thanks!!

broph · May 2003

I have a '96 w/ 117k & my o/d light started flashing. It only happens when it has been driven for awhile. Tried with the o/d off after about 12 miles it started flashing again. I had maint done on it in dec, my radiator broke at the trans cooler. All kinds of mixed fluids what a mess, thought I blew a head gasket. My question is are there sensors that could cause this to happen? or could it be the tranny is shot. I noticed that it also downshifts & shifts from 1st to 2nd with a clunk. I checked the fluid & it is clean with no burnt smell. I plan to bring it to a transmission place to get it checked out, hopefully not to expensive. I hope to get another year out of it. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Tom

wijoco · May 2003

Uh-oh. That sounds bad. When your trans cooler lines broke and you got trans fluid in your radiator, you probably got coolant in your transmission too. Which is really, really bad. Just like when a head gasket blows and coolant gets in the engine oil and wipes the bearings, the exact same thing happens in a transmission. If I were you, I would be headed back to your original mechanic and asking him why he didn't flush and refill the transmission, if he didn't. Any guy who has done more than a few lawnmower oil changes should know to do this. The current analysis may be a transmission rebuild, but before that, you may want to try flushing the transmission thoroughly and refilling with a quality synthetic fluid. You just might be lucky enough to have caught it before destroying the transmission. It's less than a $100 gamble, and it could save you close to $2,000 if it works.

broph · May 2003

Yeah the fluid was corrupted, they flushed the tranny with 43 qts. of fluid to get it clean, also had a 2 week follow up & according to them everything checked out fine. The radiator went right in front of my house (vehicle was warming up) & it wasn't driven at all, so very little damage according to them. I trust these mechanics, friend of my uncles' not that that has anything to do with it. I brought a lot of business with this vehicle over the last 3 years.
Hopefully it won't be as drastic as a rebuid. Thanks.

nygeorge1961 · May 2003

ive had my 2002 explorer back to the dealer 3 times so far for a "check engine" light. the first time they reset the computer and the next day the light was back on. i brought it back and they attributed it to the cold weather - LOL. so i went thru the winter with the lite on. now they tell me its the gas ive been using - its causing a fuel vapor problem. i should switch to a 91 octane even though the manual says 87. and i should change brands of gas. the service tech tells me that after i run 3 or 4 tank fulls of 91 octane thru the problem "should" be corrected. i have almost 16,000 miles now - 4 tank fulls later ill be close to 18,000 miles - the limit for the lemon law. sound like a "ford plan" to anyone???

heintz1 · May 2003

Every 3000 miles (i.e., with each oil change) I treat my 2002 V8 XLT's fuel with Chevron Techron, and I believe this is very beneficial.

jrc346 · May 2003

I think your dealer is feeding you a fine line of crapola. Computers in cars today can compensate for differences in fuels, altitudes, driving conditions etc. If it is possible, find another dealer. One that cares enough to do some in depth diagnosis. Keep in mind, that when the check engine light is on, there is a code being stored that may very well indicate what the problem is. Another option for you is to make a visit to a Autozone parts store. There, they will come out to your car and read the code that is setting off your check engine light and tell you what part is bad. Sorry you Explorer isn't well, but I think with this and the help from the other fine people that post here, we can help you figure this problem out.

broph · May 2003

If the code is a PO420 which really doesn't say any exact component, your O2 sensors might need to be replaced. My mechanic changed 3 of 4 on mine & with the help of HESS gas it turned my check engine light off.

dtownfb · May 2003

It sounds like the dealership doesn't want to pay for a warranty item. My advice is to find anotherf Ford dealership to deal with. This one obviously does not want your business.

If it will make you feel better, write a letter to the owner of the dealership with copies to the regional and district managers detailing your experience with the service department. A check engine light is pretty easy to diagnose and fix.

swschrad · May 2003

there are only three issues in that...

SHOULD - meaning some folks couldn't find their backside with either hand and spotting them four fingers placement by a trained medical professional.

DIAGNOSE - this involves recognition of something after looking at the car.

FIX - this involves action.

the EASY part is putting it on the back lot all day, and writing NTF on the report when you didn't get to it because there were lots of takers for replacement of parts obviously broken in half.

rlumachi · May 2003

i own a 98 explorer xlt awd with v8 & tow package and i CANNOT eek out much more
than 15mpg. i drive 75% hiway, 25% city, i do NOT have a lead foot,
and i calculate mileage every time i fill up the old fashioned way
(trip odometer, gallons til full & calculator). this seems dismally
BAD but would like some other opinions. is this a problem with my
vehicle or are others out there getting similar numbers??

dtownfb · May 2003

I have a 1996 V8 Explorer with 138k miles on it. 15 mpg isn't that bad. I normally average about 16-17 mpg with the same highway to city ratio. I've noticed that the really short trips (less then 5 miles first thing in the morning) bring down the gas mileage more then you think. The truck is probably averaging 9 or 10 mpg rather then the 14 shown on the sticker.

How many miles do you have on your Explorer? When was the last tuneup? I mean full tuneup not just replacing the spark plugs. Do you carry any unnecessary weight? In the truck,not personally. What type of tires do you have on the Explorer?

davb1 · May 2003

Requested my Ford dealer to change the lube in the rear differential of my '97,4x4, 3.73 limited slip axle (59,000 miles). They drop the cover, clean it out, refill with synthetic fluid but do NOT add 4 oz of friction modifier. This additive is called for in my owners manual and the Haynes (sp) manual. Tech insisted that Ford updated their specs and the friction modifier is now used for original factory fill and if the rear diff is rebuilt. They wrote on my invoice that it was not added and is not needed.

Any experiences/comments to share? Thank you.

heintz1 · May 2003

I don't know the answer to your question, but I wonder if this "friction modifier" might be a "PTFE" or "Teflon" resin type of material? ["Slick 50" products are one example of this sort of Teflon resin, which could be added to engine oil (only after proper break-in), and I believe there were formulations for transmissions as well.] If anyone can shed more light on these questions, please do so!

Also, I think it's a good idea to change the tranny fluids every 30,000 miles.

swschrad · May 2003

consider the limited slip system... you supply power up to a certain level, but when a wheel suddenly breaks free, you want the other wheel to take power. that implies that you want to build some uneven friction in the system.

before computer-controlled braking systems that actually apply braking pulses on the wheel running free, you had to have some friction in the lubrication itself (!). the friction modifier added to the diffs does this... as do the fibers in Dexron ATF. it basically gets in the way just enough so the U-spring and effectively-clutch in back of the loaded gear start that gear turning, and it takes some power and keeps you going.

I just had my transfer case and diffs lubed in my 2000 exploder AWD, and the dealer certainly did charge me for the 4-ounce tubes of friction modifier, as they ARE SUPPOSED TO if there is a complete fluid refill in the diffs. if you had a little gear lube added, you don't need more genius dust added.

since you had a full refill and the dealer didn't put it in, they screwed up. you will have performance problems equivalent to not having a limited-slip differential with the genius dust not added. guaran-damn-teed.

esbesb · June 2003

anyone else had problems with the rear doors or their explorer not opening from the inside? and no, the child lock is not switched on...I read a comment from another post, and that person said he oiled the mechanism...could you do this with the door panel on? is it just the latch on the door that needs to be oiled?

bioman3 · June 2003

I believe that your problem lies in either the rod that connects the interior door handle to the lock mechanism or the child lock mechanism. If the door opens from the outside, the lock mechanism is working. I could be wrong, but I don't think so. Removing the door panel is no big deal. I recently did that to replace the door lock actuator for the electric door locks. Two screws near the interior door handle and a spackle knife or a screwdriver along the perimeter of the door panel to pry off the door panel and you're in. If you need help, go to the ALLDATA DIY's Online Database of Automotive Repair site at "http://www.alldatadiy.com/". The best $25.00 investment you can make if you like to do your own repairs.

esbesb · June 2003

I guess I just need to vent about this whole Ford Exploder...opps I mean Explorer thing. It is really unbelievable how many problems one can can encounter. I have rebuilt the transmission at least twice and I think I am going to have to do it again. Not to mention that people still can't get out of the back seat of my car. The idler pulley, the belt mounter, I just got two (very Expensive) tires, cracks in the arm rest consul, the lock switch on the drivers side doesn't work, and the leather seat seams are coming apart. oh yeah, the recliner lever on the drivers seat pulled off and somehow the cruise control button cover came off and NO ONE can get it back on. well, how did it come off if it can't go back on???!! AHHH-I can't even keep it running well long enough to sell it. God, please help all Explorer owners-let us keep our sanity and drive our SUV's without an anxiety attacks.

bbieraugel · June 2003

To: Esbesb;

Try taking a look at the Chevrolet Blazer/Trailblazer message boards to see how they feel about their trucks...I owned a 99 Blazer LT for just 3 years before DUMPING it off to buy a 2002 Explorer. You can't imagine how terrible this SUV was from everything from the tires on up to the roof rack. No kidding, I replaced oil cooler lines, fuel sending units, on board computers, door latches, pinion seals, intake manifold gaskets, ball joints, you name it. This in only 45,000 miles. Please do not consider the GM product.

bioman3 · June 2003

I have to chime in here to express my feelings about the Blazer/Jimmy. Like "bbieraugel" I owned a 95 Jimmy (almost identical to the 99). It was the worst POS I had ever purchased. I'll never forget what a looker the truck was. It was the truck of the year in 95!! But, the way it looked was a smoke screen for the quality control that GM used in production. I often look at the Blazer/Jimmy Problems discussion to see if things have changed since I sold my Jimmy in November of 1999. That's when I purchased my 99 Explorer XLT. I posted a message outlining the problems I had with my Jimmy on the Blazer/Jimmy Problems BB. The Explorer is not perfect, but it is a gem compared to the Blazer/Jimmy. Stay away from this set of twins!!

jrc346 · June 2003

Woah 2 transmissions! Would you mind giving us some more information about your Explorer? Like the engine you have, how many miles, and the year? You have my deepest sympathies. I have had cars with redundant problems before and they are nothing but a pain in your back side. What is your transmission doing to cause you to think it is in need of repair? Have you changed the fluid recently? I know changing the fluid and filter can make some small transmission problems vanish. The Idler pulley is a strange thing to have go bad, but I have heard of these pooping out from time to time. I also remember having to replace a door lock actuator in the drivers side door of my 96 Explorer. I did it myself (to save on labor costs), and the part cost me around $60. You are the first lucky (unlucky?) person I have heard to have an arm rest crack. I am sure a local salvage yard may have one. At least it couldn't hurt to check;-) The same thing for the recliner lever (if its broken). I don't think that there is much you can do with the seats, but if they're old then they may just be stretched out. Maybe someone else here can help you out with the cruise button? I didn't even know they came off haha ;-) Keep us posted, and I hope that things get better with the truck.

swschrad · June 2003

if you put ANY pressure downward on those things, they are going to break... the salvage yards are out of them according to some posters last year or so.

I remind passengers getting in routinely, reach up and use the grab handles, those arm rests will break and dump you on the sidewalk if you lean on them.

if there was some metal to back them up it wouldn't be so bad, but they're not designed to carry a load larger than about 10 pounds, and that distributed across the rest, not in one spot.

kjpk · June 2003

I don't get the "woes" thing.
There are folks out here with 160k miles complaining about doing some maintenance!
There is NO statistical evidence here that these vehicles are not designed and built well.

Since we are just telling stories here, I'll give you mine:
I own '98 XLT great vehicle. Never failed. Been to the shop only for scheduled maintenance and Ford's recalls (if Ford wants to replace something that is functioning just fine, with a part they say is better at their expense, then that's OK with me).

Neighbor owns '92 200k miles. Says they would do a Ford Explorer commercial if asked.

Co-worker # 1 '91 200K miles. Retired to use as ranch vehicle. Still works hard every day

Co-worker # 2 '92 130k miles. Says everything works fine but the kids are bored with it. Kids want a new Honda or Toyota (what do kids know).

Co-worker # 3 '96 130k miles. Everyday vehicle for family. Says it's a great vehicle

Co-worker # 4 '97 80K miles. Not one failure. Very well maintained.

None of us have been contacted by Consumer Reports or JD Powers. How does that work?

Remember, Ford has built and sold over 800,000 of these vehicles each year for the last 10 or 11 years. The fact that there are a few folks out here repeating over and over how they don't like their vehicle is a testimony to just how good they are! Only these few bad ones out of millions! Look at the statistics--the Explorer outsells most other SUVs 3 or 4 to 1! So, if there are a few more complaints out here, than others, just remember how many more of them are out on the road.

kjpk · June 2003

Reasons for transmission failures:

1. Auto Transmission should be serviced every 30k miles! This is absolutely vital, and as important as regular engine oil changes!

30K mile service should include:
A. Transmission service: clean and flush, replace fluid with Ford specified synthetic trans fluid.
B. Fuel filter
C. Radiator flush and fill
Why fuel filter? Because as the filter gets dirty, it forces the fuel pump in the gas tank to work extra hard and possibly burn out.

2. Turn the overdrive OFF! Do not use your overdrive for city driving, around town, short trips, trailer towing, or going downhill at less than 50mph. DO use your overdrive ONLY on the open road or highway!!! Turn off when approaching a steep hill in anticipation, and leave off until you have topped the hill. The transmission cannot see that you are climbing a hill, it only responds to the pressure on the gas pedal.

For example, recommended way:
See steep hill ahead, at base of hill, turn off overdrive, transmission downshifts, engine revs to 3k rpm, very comfortable for engine and trans. Maintain speed, leave off until at top, turn back on, transmission upshifts. 2 shifts total.

Other way: Approach hill, vehicle lugs, step on gas, automatic hard downshift, vehicle accelerates, runs up on slower traffic. Let off gas, Transmission upshifts, slow car gets out of the way, step on gas, transmission downshifts, vehicle accelerates, ease off gas vehicle upshifts. Crest of hill is steep, one more downshift (hard one) over the top, upshift.
6 total shifts!!!!

Believe it or not, you will get better gas mileage the first way! It is much better for an engine and transmission to rev a little, than lug.

Do you realize how many shifts you will save over the course of the life of a vehicle. Your transmission can and will last with a little service, and thoughtful driving.

swschrad · June 2003

starting in mid-90s exploders... A4 tranny and 4-by issues, 4.0 German engine cam blocks that broke and made the car sound like a bad diesel engine, some rust, rear wipers, those sorts of things. not to mention a lot of posts about the => KILLER TIRES! tm <=.

and radios that went blank, almost forgot that one.

I haven't had issue one with my 2000 xlt except a squeaky seat, and that's probably because I have it ramped up almost all the way.

kjpk · June 2003

Nothing a little spray lithium grease won't fix...Just have to find that bugger!
.
Tire fiasco:
I have replaced the original Freestone's with Cooper Discover. Did you know that Cooper is the only American owned major tire company? It is a fact. Anyhow, I like them so much, I replaced the tires on our other vehicle with Cooper's as well. (Found out later that Cooper is a big client of the company I work for, so it turned out to be the right thing to do). The bottom line here, is: There are so many of these vehicles on the road that are performing just fine, and long term reliability is as good as any vehicle out there.

swschrad · June 2003

cooper has been called the largest US independent tire company in many a publication, however, and they contract-build a lot of tires for a lot of outfits, as it turns out I have seen reference information published within the past couple years for some companies you would not suspect.

they have had a few spates of "tires can fail" in CR recall pages like most other outfits, because radials are still not trivial to make. I sorta laughed at the recall notices, because it was quantities like 87 and 378 tires, meaning one mold was having issues. we all know the drill these days on how to minimize the risk, after the => KILLER TIRES! tm <= fiasco.

dondilio · June 2003

I've owned 2 explorers, this its my 3rd a 2003 i also own a 2002. All 3 have been solid as a rock, very reliable. The only complain I have its a weird knocking sound that seems to come from the steering column. If any of you have experienced this problem and have been able to fix it please let me know. By the way, the problem its on the 2003. thanks

opera_house_wk · June 2003

The problem is a door latch mech that is a little hokey. The grease dries out and the metal corrodes. Door handle operates a little wire that bends easily with any resistance. Shoot lots of oil on the door latch and gently work the handle about 2 dozen times. This should be regular maintenance at every oil change. It should start working again unless the door handle teeth are broken. This is easily done because most people believe that if something doesn't work you just apply more pressure. New one is about $10.

dtownfb · June 2003

I hate to disagree with you but that is ridiculous to drive around with the Overdrive off esp. when the owner's manual specifically says to put it in drive with the circle around it. Turning off the overdrive is recommended when you are towing. The problem with the transmissions goes deeper then turning off the overdrive. If this were the case, then Ford should program there transmissions similar to the Honda grade logic. It holds the lower gear when you climb a hill so your tranny isn't searching gears.

Maintenance could have something to do with it but I am not sold on that argument either considering there has been many transmissions that have failed under 30k miles and other have failed even though the fluid was changed in accordance to the manual.

My mother-in-law has to replace her tranny in her 97 Explorer and she is not a hard driver at all. And she has all the maintenance done at the dealership on the prescribed mileage. Explain that one to me.

kjpk: Ford has sold over 400,000 each year not 800,000. And because they build them at different plants, in so many combinations it leads to problems. it's hard to control quality when you have over 500 combinations. I understand how one person can have a flawles Explorer whle the person next door is cursing theirs. I have a 96 V8 Explorer with 138k that has been very good. Some minor problems as of late (brakes) but that is more to do with age and mileage then being an Explorer.

I'm surprised to hear about the console cracking. That was a issue with the first generation Explorer. I know the addressed it with the 2nd generation. I'm a pretty big guy (weigh quite a bit more then 10 pounds) and I lean on my console all the time to get out of the vehicle. As far as tire replacement, you don't have to use the factory OEM. As a matter of fact, with the exception of the Michelins, I would not recommend replacing with the OEM tires. I just replaced my tires with Dayton Timberline L/T for $68 per tire (out the door). Top rated by CR. As opposed to $90+ for the Wrangler RT/S. They are not very good tires after you loose that initial tread. Quiet, yes but poor in rain or snow and wet road traction is critical in these vehicles.

cmartin411 · June 2003

I have a 2003 XLT with 20,000 miles and had to replace the sensor twice. Anyone else have issues? The rear end also leaks fluid. It's a very small leak, but it shouldn't happen to a 2003.

esbesb · June 2003

Well, here is just an update...for all those following...its a '97 Explorer- and its getting checked out as I type. It has 110,000 miles on it, mostly highway-I-90 from Boston to Detroit. I don't feel like I drive it that hard. and I certainly don't turn the overdrive off and on when just going up a hill-I was told that you only really need to do it when towing, etc. The transmission, though getting checked right now, has not been "bad" for about a week (coincidently, it has not rained for a week), I am wondering if humidity has something to do with it? could something like humidity screw with the transmission? Though I am not a car expert, I do take pride in driving-I am from Detroit, and we like to drive-anyway, I don't think I drive it too hard, no major accidents-in fact, I think the only body work that was done was recent when the hood latch disengaged on the highway and it flew up and blinded my sight-no one pulled over to help. Stranded in NH...esb

jrc346 · June 2003

Do you think that you could explain what your transmission is doing?

esbesb · June 2003

My transmission...
Well, there is a delay from PARK to REVERSE and DRIVE to REVERSE and sometimes when I put it in reverse and give it some gas, it will make a loud clunking noise-but the noise is not like it is trying too hard to engage, but it actually happens when it is reversing. And then what prompted me to get it checked out is that the other day, while engaged, it made that clunk noise and then squeeled...like gears were half engaged-it was a metal on metal sound. who knows, hopefully the Tranny shop can figure it out.

swschrad · June 2003

and I think you'll face a fine bill. sounds like you've enough wear for a rebuild. clunks between directions can be accumulated wear all down the drivetrain being taken out, but slipping in and out of gear with gnashing noises is never good.

jrc346 · June 2003

The delay is not a big deal as long as it is not very long (more than 2 seconds). My wifes Explorer has a delay, but all you have to do is wait for the engagement and all is well. However, the reverse issue is a mystery (the squeeling). Does it shift ok while driving forward? Does it make noises at any other time? I have heard what causes the delay is the time it takes to fill the cluch packs with fluid. If it takes a very long time, a new filter and or Trans fluid pump may be in order. Goodluck with it. Hope that it is just something simple.

a36 · June 2003

"dondilio" notes a knocking sound in the steering
of his 2002 & 2003 Explorers. My early 2002 4X2
has the same sound and can also be felt in the
wheel. You can rock the steering wheel from side
to side, while in the garage, and hear a similar sound. I have had someone rock the wheel while
under the car and you can feel it in the rack of
the Rack & Pinion steering assembly. Put a long extension or screw driver on the rack, with the
other end in your ear and you can hear it as well. Using this method of "listening" the knock gets progressively fainter as you listen to steering components that are farther from the rack. The dealer folks can't hear it or feel it! (I just had the car in to have the Exh. Gas
Rec. Sensor replaced.) There is no obvious free play in the steering, but something certainly is knocking at the door.

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