Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair

99expxlt · October 2003

Every time I put the car in drive and reverse it stalled. It did it the entire way home. I took ot to the dealership and they could not duplicate the problem, so they did not fix anything. I had to pay $80 for diag charge. The problem could happen at any time? Any ideas?

nvbanker · October 2003

It could do it again at any time, or you may find it never does it again. There are so many components, sensors, and controls running todays engines, even one of them a little out of phase, could cause that problem temporarily. Turning the car off may have reset it. Was there a check engine light turned on?

pulleydog · October 2003

My wife's 2002 Merc. Mountaineer has the 6-spoke alloy wheels and all of them have what appear to be scratches or stress marks over the flat surface adjacent to the 'cut-out' portions of the wheel, although 2 wheels don't seem to be that bad. Upon closer examination, it's really hard to figure out exactly what is happening. If I rub my finger or thumbnail across the marks, I feel absolutely nothing. The marks do not wash or polish off. I can't explain it, but was wondering if others had seen this? I will likely bring it to the dealer prior to the end of warranty just in case it's something more than cosmetic...and to make sure they don't give me a hard time about it when the lease is up.

nvbanker · October 2003

Ours does not have that problem.......

dhg1337 · October 2003

My mom was telling about her scratches in her 2002
Mountaineer's rims. The dealer replaced them all
under warranty.

pulleydog · October 2003

Thanks! I'm going to bring it in and have them look at the wheels. It's not a real issue for me and my wife never notices things like that, but I certainly don't want it to be an issue for 'them' when I return the vehicle at lease-end.

brekke · November 2003

Hello,
Is it OK to mix synthetic tranny fluid with regular tranny fluid for a MT ('93 Sport)

Many thanks to the person who posted that Explorer maintenance page awhile back, it's been very helpful.

miker12 · November 2003

I purchased a 97 explorer with 75k miles and have noticed when reaching speeds of 42-48 mph a strange sound happens. Almost like I am running over ridges in the road but that cannot be since
I am on a smooth surface. Any ideas?

swschrad · November 2003

with the exception of a few manual trannies.

shouldn't kill anything to mix 'em, I had a bottle of dura-blend ATF (partial synthetic) on my shelf when I changed PS fluid on saturday, and it was not scary or murderous towards me while I walked by. it it meets manufacturer standards, it will work.

something did move the tools around in the garage, though, and I may just sling a noose around that bottle of half-n-half, just in case.... ooh, so spooooooky....

swschrad · November 2003

it is possible, if somebody worked on the truck and got one of the splined drive shafts just a touch out of joint, to have a resonance build up in the drive system. it is also possible that you have a bad universal joint in the rear driveshaft. or a gob of mud or something on the rear driveshaft unbalancing it. or an "interesting" tire/wheel combination.

what happens at 50,60, 65 mph? -- is the vibration gone? if not, something like an out-of-balance tire or dynamically unbalanced tire or goo on a driveshaft is likely. if so, there is a 4wd resynchronizing procedure that may need to be done.

NVH can be fun to find, good luck

miker12 · November 2003

I will have that checked out next time in the shop. Truck runs fine at higher speeds.

Thanks for the input.

jmvogt · November 2003

My 97 Explorer hesitates and occasionally will stall when I put it in reverse. This problem seems to be amplified when the car is warmed up. I was thinking tranny, any ideas?

husten · November 2003

Alright, I've read a ton of postings and to search on knocking sounds in Explorers is asking for a lot of reading!! So I thought I'd post... I purchased a 2000 XLT 2WD 4Dr a few weeks ago. I've noticed a few things that are in short "stressing me out". Any feedback on the below would be appreciated. PLEASE HELP! Once I figure it out I'll be sure to post.

1.) On an inconsistent basis my steering wheel has a slight knock or ping. It's as though some one is hitting the steering column with a stick. Like I said it's inconsistent and irregular. It happens whether driving at speed down a smooth road or more predictably when slowing down over slight bumps (nothing off road. It doesn't seem to be affecting the steering but I can even hear it some times. The dealer claimed nothing is wrong? I can't stand having to keep wondering if my steering will fail somewhere not good!

2.) My windshield leaks when driving in heavy rain??? Is there a recall or did I just get unlucky?

3.) My oil pressure gage seems to fail the first few minutes of driving? It eventually comes on turning off the "check engine light" but wondering/hoping its not a more serious problem.

Again, any advice would be appreciated, either way I'll post once I find out what is going on.

cheers,
BT

akangl · November 2003

Ok, let's see if I can be of any help.

1.) I have no idea what the deal is with your steering, sorry, can't help there.

2.) Windshield was probably replaced at some point due to a crack and its probably not sealed correctly (happens sometimes). Possibly take it to a windshield place and see if they can find the problem.

3.) Sounds like most like a pokey oil pressure sending unit, that is UNLESS you hear knocking, then its probably an oil pump. I doubt it though, I would check into getting a new oil pressure sending unit. Could also be the guage though.

Not to worry, Explorer are good trucks, sometimes quirky. Mine is a 97 Limited V8/AWD and its got its fair share of goofy quirks. Some I overlook, some I shake my head, some I fix. Just gotta pick your battles I guess.

swschrad · November 2003

3) there was a run of bad oil pressure senders, at least around february 2000 build dates, I had mine replaced in the first week. it's not pleasant, and they half-pulled my engine for access to it, located right above the oil pan on the V8. your location may vary. sensor may be the same as on the 90 ranger, that's a 6-point 1-1/16 deep socket needed to replace it, as I remember... if you can get your hand to the thing, you could change it yourself with a little oil drool to wipe up afterwards.

2) yup, have a glass guy work on it

1) check your steering fluid color against new dexron III/Mercon fluid. any evidence of grey or darkness in it, replace the PS fluid just for jollies. I've done it several times by sucking the resivoir dry, filling with fresh fluid, starting up and turning the wheel slowly lock to lock three times, centering it again. repeat until you've used a couple quarts of fluid minimum, or until fluid is clean and vibrant as brand new stuff. drive on that a while and see what happens.

it might be a dying PS pump, and it could be worse. I just redid my PS fluid in trying to diagnose what seems like a whisper-clunk in straightening my wheel after a turn, usually cold, very occasional. not sure I have results yet. changing the tilt wheel position didn't do anything for it. my belt is good.

suspicions at this point that I have revolve around a chunk of crud in the rack (evil and expensive), an occasional hangup of the clockspring wire harness under the steering wheel causing it to brush against the wheel or column, maybe a chunk of plastic crap in the steering column that has warped under wear or heat and occasionally scrapes another, or the earliest starting of trouble with the PS pump. it's so marginal and barely there that there's really nothing to troubleshoot seriously yet.

but I have not noticed the issue for the past week, since I changed the PS fluid, and so I'm hoping it was just a little crudball moving past the orifice in the rack.

after something like 14,000, I checked the factory load of PS fluid, and it was a nasty greyish red mess. immediately changed it out using 3 quarts of dexron III/mercon. mileage is now 45,000. fluids are cheap, engines/racks/trannies/diffs/transfer cases are not, so I react to any evidence of unusual fluid load on my vehicles.

WARNING to others... PS fluid use varies among different cars, including different years of otherwise identical explorers... check your manual and make sure you use what it recommends. there were some posts way, way back of folks who had trouble using "modern" fluid in an "older" system. "trouble" meaning both the rack and PS pump were shot due to the wrong fluid.

fordtrucklover · November 2003

I have checked the oil and tranny fluid for leakage, and they are fine. I have capped off the heater core, and is still leaking from bell housing. I checked the freeze plugs and they are not leaking, and the hoses and radiator not leaking, i am starting to think maybe rear main seal, or head gasket, i would like some more opinions before taking to the shop for repair Thanx. Leaking at a fast drip when engine is running, and slow when the engine is off.

swschrad · November 2003

it could be a gasket thing, it could be worse. the rear main would leak oil, not coolant -- at least, it better. the rear main is on the back of the crankshaft, and it exits just a little above the full and engine off level of oil in the oil pan. if you have coolant there, you have some major issues to deal with. your oil would also look like a milkshake instead of oil on the dipstick.

it seems to me that if you had a real coolant leak at the back of the block from under the bell housing, it would be a crack into a coolant gallery from a bolt hole or a porous block area. the crack may be a "forklift upgrade" repair, while a porous block section might be fixed (at least for a while) with high-temp epoxy.

unless somebody else has any real clever suggestions from a lifetime of doing heavy service, I'd say it's time for a dealer call here. check your credit record and card limits before going in, because I don't like what I'm thinking here.

wifemm · November 2003

Anyone having problems with starting 02 Mountaineer AWD? It happens randomly, happened 3 times last month and once again today. No particular pattern, just takes 3 cranks to start up, the 1st 2 times attempts to start but will not turn over. Any ideas appreciated.

wijoco · November 2003

If you're talking just 3 or 4 cranks to start occasionally, that's not too unusual. Especially with varying weather conditions and stuff. Try holding the key in "on" position for 3 seconds before turning it to the "start" position. This builds fuel pressure by running the pump for a few seconds and usually results in less cranks before hte engine fires. If the problem gets worse, though, just start keeping a log of what conditions (outside temp, engine temp, time of day, etc) most often cause the problem; this will help your dealer mechanic isolate the problem.

swschrad · November 2003

then you know it should have a full head of pressure in the fuel rail.

a cold engine on a hot day in my 2000 exploder's V8 is occasionally a recipe for a no-start even under those conditions. so after I have spun the motor 3 seconds and nothing happens, I take a sip of 7up and try again. starts the second time every time.

raydav · November 2003

My new 2003 Eddie Bauer Explorer V8 2x2, 6000 miles has developed a vibration in the drive system between 60-65 mph. The dealer road forced each tire, found one that did not pass and replace it(BF Goodrich P245/65R17)and balance all four tires. The resonance was still there at 60-65 mph. Returned to the dealer and this time they replace the drive shaft one from a new Explorer. This reduced the vibration by 50%. No vibs through the steering. Could it be the rear tires need to be re-balanced? Anyone aware of this problem. Would appreciate your help.
Thanks, raydav

wijoco · November 2003

Unfortunatley, vibrations aren't too uncommon in the newest generation Explorers/Expeditions. Lots are due to bad tires, others to unbalanced wheels and some have bad differential or drivetrain gear. It probably won't be an easy fix, just save all documentation and be patient with the dealer. Sounds like they're at least making an honest effort.Let us know what the final fix is.

nvbanker · November 2003

Would recommend you take another look at the tires. I had a brand new set of BF Goodrich tires not long ago, where 2 of them out of round.

akangl · November 2003

Where the fuse for the power antenna would be located on a 97 Limited? Also would pulling the fuse keep the antenna up or would it go back down the second the fuse is pulled? I want to keep the antenna in an up position since its winter now and it gets stuck and won't come up, when that happens no radio reception. Thanks.

swschrad · November 2003

the parts counter guy will slide one out of the box, if boxed, and let you look at 'em. if not, you have a pinhead dealer service department, I'vve never had an issue asking to see the part. if they don't stock 'em, and a lot don't because they can get the parts in a day or two if they really need it, just slide under new units on the dealer's back lot and size up the springs there. if they're still cars looking for the first home, the painted part number will be nice and readable on the top or bottom, bring a dental mirror. you'd be looking for the smallest spring if you don't like bumps.

for that matter, the parts manual should cross the spring number to application, so they should really have been able to pick one from a lighter load model.

keep in mind that if you change the springs, you can't tow any more, and other performance aspects of the truck will be altered. because I suspect you're looking for a cushy ride, and there really isn't one in the exploder/mountie. it's a pleasant ride, but it's a truck, and mink floormats can't change that.

IMHO that will wreck the value of the truck. the next buyer will have been looking real hard for a V8 tow-package, and with gutless suspension, it will be a potential killer with a load on. they aren't that common on the lots, the V8-tow combination, and that is a premium truck unmodified.

a potentially better option, although more expensive, is air shocks on your present system, so you can dial it softer or harder. then instead of little road shocks, you can get sway and dizziness. towing shocks are going to be valved wrong for a cloud-ride, anyway.

if what you REALLY wanted is a buick with kick instead of a multipurpose truck, the best option of all is to do a lot of test drives and trade this mountie in on something else. if you're looking for zip, I suggest you start looking for things with turbos. you are also likely to get better mileage on a ride really suited to what you're wanting.

if it's important enough to you to start doing suspension rebuilds, you might as well get the right car all the way around. gutting a tow vehicle is going to end up killing somebody two or three owners down the line who checks out the VIN, sees high-capacity, and loads it up. I have issues with the concept.

opera_house_wk · November 2003

Just had to replace a noisy hub @ 145K on my 97. Lowest price $140.13 for a Timken wih new sensor. Pressed the old one apart. My original intention was to see if the inner and outer bearings were the same. This might allow me to buy a new hub and make a second good one from parts of the two old ones. The outer bearing is the most likely one to be damaged from dirt and higher pressures. Unfortunately the inside bearing axle sections are not identical. Individual rollers can be switched between the two. If you could purchase these bearing sections, there is not enough space to grab onto the bearing and press it off. There is a possibility that the sensor gear could be pressed off without damage but this bearing is not likely to fail. The outside of both bearings is machined out of the housing and can't be pressed out like on a brake rotor. If there is doubt on the bearing condition the hub can be pressed apart, inspected and pressed back together.

So, if there is any real damage, the hub isn't rebuildable. Good news is these are regreasable. The wheel sensor can be pulled out which gives a 0.380 hole. There is an O ring 0.2 inches down the sensor. This allows the first section of the sensor hole to get rusty. The sensor may be damaged when you pull it out. An oversize thread zerk fitting with a wrap of tape works great to grease these from the sensor hole. It easily builds enough pressure to push grease out of the front and back seals. My old hub is still good enough to make a great rotary weld table out of it. Think prevention.

fondafords · November 2003

I just purchased my first 4 wheel drive vehicle, a '97 Ford Explorer XLT with 115,000 miles on it. It looks like new inside and out, and I'm really enjoying it. But I find myself confused about which engine I have. This confusion stems from the fact that the vin has an "x" as the eighth digit which I read elswhere in this forum denotes a 6 cyl. OHV engine. However, I was under the impression that these XLT's with automatic transmission & Control Trac 4 Wheel came with the more powerful SOHC 6 cylinder. Also, there is no SOHC inscription on the plastic shroud on top of the motor, as with other SOHC motors I've seen in the past. It simply says 4.0 EFI Which engine is this? Also, has the debate over which of these engines is superior been settled. One further question: What would cause the whole body of the truck to sit 1 1/2 in. lower on one side of the body than the other?

gregb5 · November 2003

I think you have the OHV engine, not the SOHC. It is the more reliable of the two, but less powerful. An easy way to tell is to put your foot to the floor and listen. An OHV engine will sound like it's done at 4000 RPM or so (and the transmission will shift it there). The SOHC will rev to 5000 RPM or better before shifting and won't sound nearly as harsh doing so. With proper maintenance, the OHV will last a long time.
Don't let the lower horsepower number (160) worry you. The engine makes a lot of torque and will do whatever you need it to do.

krisak26 · November 2003

I have a 93 Ford Explorer with 225,000 miles and my Fuel Gauge sometimes will not work at all it stays well below the E. It only does this intermintitly and will work fine for a while and then stop working for some time. I was wondering do you think it can be the Fuel pump sending unit or just the gauge going bad. The fuel pump with the sending unit would cost $120. I was going to try the gauge first hopefully that will cure it. What do you guys think? Anybody else experience this same problem with their explorer? Also one other thing this Explorer is in great shape and the paint is only a year old and I'm keeping it as a second car, but the only other thing that is wrong with it is that it leaks oil at the Rear main seal usually I put a half a quart in it a month. the engine and transmission are original with 225,000 miles, would you spend the money to fix the leak or just leave it alone until the engine or transmission go out?

opera_house_wk · November 2003

if it has 225K. I don't think that will solve your problem though. Most common problem is with the sensor float getting a pin hole in it. This causes the float to sink. If you allow the tank to get very empty, the float will empty out and read ok for a short while. The sender reads 15 ohms empty and 170 ohms full. Reverse of many senders in the old days. Most sender electrical problems show up as a full tank. Next time it is empty, unplug the tank electrical connector and see it it goes to full. There is an electronic module which averages the reading over time so the needle doesn't bounce around. It is sounding like this module is the problem. If you replace the pump you may begin to notice other strange engine problems like stalling. Some fuel pressure regulators start sticking when the new pump's higher flow causes the valve to open more.

nvbanker · November 2003

Very impressive!!! My 94 has 115,000 miles, and hasn't had the best of care, unfortunately, as my son is somewhat, er....inconsistent with maintenance. The truck runs great, but I'm very impressed if you have done nothing major to yours with that many miles on it.

opera_house_wk · November 2003

As I eliminate noises in my ‘97, new ones become apparent. This is just a little one from the horizontal shock on the rear differential. The problem originates from the cast bracket that holds the shock on the differential. This can not squeeze down on the center metal sleeve in the shock bushing to keep it from moving. My mounting bolt was severely worn from vibration and had to be replaced. Metal sleeve had little wear so I wrapped a single layer of tape on the bolt along with black RTV in the center and end bushings. The factory relies on the rubber bushing to dampen movement and the extra RTV might help that. A buck repair that I hope lasts a couple years. This has to be happening to others.

donbaa · November 2003

My '93 Explorer has a rear seat belt stuck in the buckle. The release button is partially depressed, but further pushing does no good. The belt will not release from the buckle. Does anyone know how to fix this?

kooz · November 2003

I have a 98 Eddie Bauer with 70,000mi. All of a sudden wind noise from front driver and passenger windows when I hit 50mph. Anyone experience this and what solution do you have.
thanks,
kooz

akangl · November 2003

Might be the weather seal is getting worn. My 97 Explorer had a lighted Lund visor on it and whoever (I bought the truck used this year) put it on pushed the weather seal all to peices, so the front doors leaked. After a gust of wind from a tractor trailer popped it loose from the roof, I had the body shop take it off and fix the door seals, wind noise is MUCH less now.

fordtrucklover · November 2003

After much time of hunting the exact cause of my leak, I have found it. not coming from the bell housing, but dripping on top of the bell housing and running down. Its leaking from a rectangular or odd shaped piece that sticks out at the back of the block at exhaust manifold level, in the middle of the block, and is to right hand side of the drivers side freeze plug in the rear of the block. I am just wondering what this piece sticking out the back of the block is any help would be appreciated. Also this piece sticking out looks like it has some sort of drain hole female fine threads in the middle of it. Thanx 4.0 ohv

twinbladesz · November 2003

I own a 98 Explorer XLT. About a month ago I noticed a squeak in the right front as I went over bumps. At first I thought it was something with my Alpine radio. Its nothing major just the first actual rattle I've heard since I bought this truck in 99. The only other problems I've had with it was the driverside door lock jammed. So I couldnt get in or out of the drivers side. This happened just after I reached 60,000 miles and while out of town visiting relatives. I have to say the dealer I took it to was one of the best I've ever been to Rusty Eck Ford in WIchita Kansas. Had a gift shop and a nice cafeteria to sit and relax in. Although it did cost me about $200 to fix. It took them 30 minutes just to get the door open. There went my warranty coverage lol. And now I have my right rear passenger seatbelt release not working. Other then that no real problems.

swschrad · November 2003

I am not near my CD manual, but there was a coolant hose line tapped for the heater on the 90 2.0-L four that ran to a similar tap and rectangularly-shaped fitting on the back. you may have a plug screwed into a similar hole in your 4.0-L six. it could be a coolant or temperature sensor, too. if it's a sensor, replace it, and be sure to use a putty or thick teflon pipe sealer moderately applied on the threads. if a plug, similar replacement may fix the issue... or you may be able to just put another sixth or quarter of a turn to the right on it and have it seal again. don't force it worse than maybe 20 foot-pounds of pressure when tightening if it's a plug.

if you get a ford OEM part for it, there should be sealer already on the part.

nvbanker · November 2003

I'm wondering if that's your air bleeder leaking. Not sure though. If so, turning the screw in should tighten it up though.

rmmvette · November 2003

Regarding the vibration at 60-65 MPH, Ford is well aware of this (driveshaft balance problem)and redesigned the driveshaft (first available around late Sept). Had the new shaft installed on my 2003 Limited & problem still there. Dealer then rebuilt he differential saying there was too much "play". Problem still there, so District office sent an engineer to review. He confirmed the vibration and returned the next day with some new equipment, analyzed the problem and proposed a fix. They ID'd the cause as a balance problem with the redesigned driveshaft! They "fixed" the problem by adding weights the to the control flange. Vibration almost eliminated. Not too happy with the fix and want a new driveshaft installed. Ford not too anxious since they concerned vibration will return. Don't think too much of the redesign.

swschrad · November 2003

had a 65 plymouth and a 76 buick manual that both mentioned there may be strap-metal weights welded to the drive shaft for vibration counterbalance, don't hink around with any you find. same story with harmonic balancers, flywheels, etc. although there the balancing is by drill-outs.

donnapaca · November 2003

I am changing u-joints and the ford maunal says torque drive line yoke to rear axle flange 70-90ft-lb but front yoke to transfer case 12-16 lbs-the attachments front to back are identical and since the front only bolts on (doesn't insert into tail shaft splines) I need to confirm since it would be major problem if it came loose. Also I had to use a breaker bar to brake both front a back loose. (appears they also used lock-tight on threads and both torqued to the same from factory.
I am trying to complete today since my sons needs the vehicle to get back to school.
Also does 70-90 ft-lbs sound too much for 3/8 bolt?
Please also email me to donnapaca@aol.com with any help.
Thank you
Don

jksledson · November 2003

My 2002 XLT has had belt issues and replacements 5 times since I bought my 'certified' vehicle at 22K miles. It now has 48K miles and the belts are making noise again. The main part they keep replacing is the FMC JK6 862 AA (IL2Z 8620 AB) and other tensioner assembly parts. This is quite frustrating (obviously, my one shot I gave Ford vehicles is their last shot). Any advice when bringing it in? Should this perpetual problem be covered under the 'certified' extended warranty?

nvbanker · November 2003

My 2002 Mountaineer has had the same problem. This last time, they replaced the water pump pulley....seems to have fixed it this time. I don't know.....but they seem to have this problem with many 4.0L SOHC engines. Personally, it's not a deal breaker for me, I've got 30,000 miles on the car, and this is the only problem we've had. In fact, I may buy it out of the lease we like it that much.

jl36031 · December 2003

Vibrations while turning are caused by the power steering hose/exhaust vibrating under steering pump load on the engine. There is an update for the hoses and an exhaust bracket that makes those noises completely disappear and makes the steering smooth as silk.

Does anyone have the part number for the part for the above problem? 98 ford explorer.

thanks

wijoco · December 2003

I think you need to express your dissatisfaction with the results of their work. Probe a bit to see if he has any idea what else could cause the noise besides what he has already replaced mutliple times. If you get a clueless answer like "I've done what the manual says and don't know what else to do" it's time to move to another dealer, or even an independent shop. My guess it's another accessory that is out-of-line from bad bearings, like nvbanker said. But that's a guess. Keep all documentation so that any shop down the road will know what work has already been performed.

riordan3241 · December 2003

I have a '98 Explorer XLT with 40k miles on it. Two distinct problems have presented themselves recently. I've noticed that the temprature goes from cold to hot within 3 or 4 minutes of staring a journey and oscillates back and forth to the point of where the "check guage" light comes on frequently. No sign of overheating, it has sufficuent coolant and no apparent leaks.

Another problem is an intermittemt vibration / grinding sound when taking off from a stopped positon. Last service was done at 36k where they flushed the transmission to check for any residue of metal which mayb have been caused by grinding - none found - any thoughts before I spend a lot of money trying to dignose the problem ?

jrc346 · December 2003

My guess solution for the temp guage issue is a new thermostat. They are a cheap first stab at a fix. They are also a common problem on the SOHC 4.0L V6 (if that is the engine you have?). As far as the grinding, that may be a condition with your exhaust. From what I know Ford has a bracket set to correct this problem, but I am not sure on the price. I actually have had both of these problems with my wifes 2000 Limited. The truck overheated last summer and needed a new thermostat, though hers gave out without any warning while sitting in a fast food drive thru.

The grinding and vibrations I get from the exhaust still remain, and they don't bother me or my wife at all because they only happen when the truck idles and only very rarely.

These are just some suggestions, and may or may not be the solutions to your issues, goodluck!

BTW, I would get the thermostat changed ASAP! The grinding that I am refering to will not harm the vehicle, it just annoys some people.

wijoco · December 2003

As far as the grinding noise, it's just impossible to diagnose without hearing. It could be anything.
For the temperature problem, you need to first have the sending unit's output tested with a digital multimeter to verify that the gauge is reporting the sender's signal correctly, then have the engine temp tested with an infrared sensor near the sender to verify that it is sending the correct temp signal. If the electrical is working correctly, then you have a legitimate overheating problem that you can't ignore. It only takes a few overheat cycles to ruin engine gaskets. Your problem could be anything from a bad thermostat, leaking intake gaskets (common on the 4.0), or leaking head gaskets. All can cause rapid temperature spikes, especially early on a cold morning.

mbriggs4 · December 2003

My 98 XLT calls for Mercon V transmission fluid.

All the quick lube places offer a full tranny fluid swap, but offer Mercon/Dexron III with a 10 oz. "additive" to meet Mercon V requirements.

The Ford dealer tranny service will use straight Mercon V, but only drops the pan and changes what's in there, leaving the new fluid to get dirty in under 10K miles.

Is there any risk in using the quick lube Mercon/DexronIII additive approach? I can't seem to find any research data or complaints about ruined transmissions.

Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair

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