Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair

wijoco · December 2003

My gut feeling says go with what is factory recommended. I didn't know there was an additive to change one type of transmission fluid into another!

nvbanker · December 2003

Why does the dealer only drop the pan and not flush the torque converter? Mine does a full change.....

wiesta · December 2003

I can't identify where this rattle is originating. It is coming somewhere from the back of the vehicle. Maybe in the rear doors or in the hatch? It only happens on bumpy roads. Any ideas?

nvbanker · December 2003

a loose spare tire?

swschrad · December 2003

I had good tension, but lots of squealing with the OEM belts. had a couple idlers replaced, no change. since I had the same issues on my 90 ranger, I decided to get away from the Dayco-sourced OEM belts. a Gates has run smoothly with no noise now for 8000 miles, and I heartily recommend bringing in your own belt when you go back.

goodyear "gatorback" belts are also supposed to stay put and not squeal.

explorerx4 · December 2003

explorerx4 · December 2003

check out your luggage rack; mine was loose at the left rear attachment point. drove me crazy.
the sound of silence is great, especially since i got it fixed just before a 900 mile trip.

daryll40 · December 2003

Anyone else notice that the heated seats suck on the current bodystyle Explorer? Mine is an '03 (Mountaineer, really) and the heated seats take forever to heat up, only get lukewarm, do NOT have a temperature control...it's one lukewarm temperature, take it or leave it, and they shut off when FORD thinks they should shut off...meantime by butt is still freezin'.

I realize it's no Lexus, but even my 2002 Volkswagen Beetle had an almost instant warm up, a temp control that could be set even hotter than almost anyone could tolerate for an extended period (but enjoy for those first few minutes on a bitter day). Why the suckie heated seats on my top-o-the-line $40,000 Mountaineer Premier? Yeah, I already know the answer.

akangl · December 2003

Heated seats. My 1997 Explorer Limited has beautiful leather seats, but no heaters. Feels like sitting on cold plywood when the temps dip to -30 or so.

I had an 01 Jetta with heated seats, things only worked on the hottest setting, so it was either burn the butt or shut them off. Dealer always said that was normal.

nvbanker · December 2003

My wife's 02 Mountaineer's seat heaters are just fine with us. We have no complaints. BTW, the reason they shut off after 20 minutes or so, is so the load on the charging system is minimized, as people tend to forget about them, and they run forever. Personally, I'm not really fond of that, but I understand the concern.

On my Navigator, you have heated AND Air Conditioned seats, with temperature controls. They still turn off after 20 minutes, and you have to restart them.

1sttimevolvo1 · December 2003

Check with service and see if this is a software adjustable item. With Volvos, I believe a software adjustment can be made for a fee.

jl36031 · December 2003

Vibrations while turning are caused by the power steering hose/exhaust vibrating under steering pump load on the engine. There is an update for the hoses and an exhaust bracket that makes those noises completely disappear and makes the steering smooth as silk.

Does anyone have the part number for the part for the above problem? 98 ford explorer or the cost for these parts?

thanks

opera_house_wk · December 2003

It took forever but there is now a cast aluminum pan made for the A4LD, 4R55E and 5R55E that adds a couple extra quarts over the stock one. Currently the 2WD (no pickup tube on filter) is available. They didn't notice that the 4WD pan was deeper. Soon a deeper 4WD pan will be available. Better check first for clearance with a SOHC engine. Priced at $165. For more info go to

www.yourcovers.com

nadavi · December 2003

my 93 explorer suddenly (after stoping for about 30 minutes) lost all the electric power - no light, horn, PDL .. nothing at all. obviously it does not start. jump starting does not help. the battery seams to be okay. what else can it be? is there a master fuse somewhere?

nvbanker · December 2003

Probably, but it sounds like either a bad ground somewhere, or still could be a shorted out battery. They may act alive, but really be dead. I still bet on the ground. Check the cables at all ends and connections. I'll bet one is loose somewhere, may be under the truck near the starter.

swschrad · December 2003

there is, however, a single ground cable from battery to engine block. even the starter has a separate lead from the battery to the starter relay, and thence to the starter assembly.

it is possible that the remaining +12 wire to the power distributor block could have a squirrelly contact. but that is shielded from road spray, salt, sand, crud, and corruption to large extent by the power distributor block.

the ground wire or the battery are the most likely culprits. round 'em up and interrogate them. one tap of a small screwdriver placed between the connector and either the battery or the block, which will upset a little metal and break through any corrosion in several spots, is a useful first test. mind you, don't swing that sledge like you mean business when tapping the battery post, or you are going to need a shower real fast to get the acid off.

gasburner · December 2003

I have noted the vibrations jl36031 described in post #2285 in my 99 Explorer (V8). It is most noticed while turning the wheel quickly while moving slowly (or even stopped). I previously pointed this out to the Ford service advisor while the truck was in for another repair, and his response was that this was normal. I've never owned a vehicle that did this before, and it really drives me crazy when I'm backing my boat down the ramp. I've searched for a TSB but couldn't find one. Has anybody else come across this issue or know of a TSB addressing this?

After 4 years, I have no real complaints about the truck, except for the door rattle that several dealers have tried to fix. My rotors are about spent, seems like rotors should last more than 40,000 mi. Anybody have any suggestions for good replacement rotors?

swschrad · December 2003

particularly when jeep owners seem to need 'em between 20 and 30 thousand, from the whines coming from that direction.

rotors are not lifetime, machine 'em each set of pads, parts any more. on most cars they are so darn thin you can read through 'em. be glad you got 40K out of 'em, and didn't warp 'em like potato chips first time you had to slam both feet on the brake pedal.

OEM explorer rotors seem plenty tough, but there should be heavy-duty ones from the usual sources (raybestos, wagner, and autolite/bendix.) site unseen, and unmiked, those are the only sources I'd trust.

nvbanker · December 2003

Sometimes, rotor wear is a function of the pads that are used. Long life pads tend to wear out the rotors faster than normal ones. I have had some pretty creative pads used on my cars when independent shops do the brakes. From now on, I use the dealer, or a shop I think knows what the car calls for. My rotors go on and on now.

nvbanker · December 2003

Anchor that high pressure hose somewhere with a plastic tie or something. Your vibration will stop.

look6phd · December 2003

At 42,000 miles my 2002 Explorer has a "worn out drive shaft" according to the service department at my local Ford dealer. This seems premature. At 29500 miles I asked them to check for a clunking noise while going approximately 30 mph - almost like downshifting and upshifting quickly and for no reason. The dealer could not find a problem at that time. Now that the warranty period is over and the problem is clearly manifest they say they can fix it. Any similar experience or recommendations? The dealer wants to replace the drive shaft (parts $400, plus labor).

nvbanker · December 2003

Well, I have an Explorer with 120,000 miles on it, still going strong on the same drive shaft, same u joints, so I'm not buying it. If it hasn't been hit and bent, I would call that defective, and would be calling a Ford rep in Dearborn myself. No way that should fail @ 42,000 miles. No way.

cmartin411 · December 2003

I had a similar experience with my 2002 XLT. When the mechanic and I went for a drive to listen for the noise, he said he has seen a lot of '02 with this problem because of the redesign of the rear-end. Since it was a company truck I turned it in for an '03 and have the same problem. I had the differential ring gear/pinion replaced, pinion and carrier bearings replaced, and they adjusted the pinion depth to 0.32 and the backlash to 0.12 at 30,000. I have 46,000 on it now and it is back to making the humming noise from the differential. We had similar problems with all of our company Explorers.

nvbanker · December 2003

I have an 02 with 30,000 miles on it, and it's just fine. Planning on buyint it out of the lease, but maybe I shouldn't?

wijoco · December 2003

Do you have a record of your earlier 29,000 mile visit to the dealer? If you have a service write-up describing your original complaint, that should be good enough for the warranty claim assuming the current symptom is similar to the original. Basically, the theory is that a customer filing a complaint that a dealer can't verify is a valid warranty claim even if it doesn't fully fail until the warranty expires. I forget the terminology, but it's a "grandfather clause" type of concept. Ford should pick up this bill, good luck, I hope they do.

wijoco · December 2003

Sure seems like Ford screwed something up in this new Explorer rear end. It's ruining the experience for a lot of people who otherwise would be enjoying their Explorers. Hopefully Ford figures it out soon.

jrc346 · December 2003

You are right about the rear-end issues. I do have friends that own 2 Mountaineers (V8) and have not had issues with the rears. However, they just lease and don't have them past 30K. I lurk over in the Aviator board and it seems like they are guaranteed to have a rear-end problem with one of those. It's a shame because after 3 rear-ends and still having the problem, people are getting REALLY fed up with an otherwise terrific automobile.

redc0ugar · December 2003

Mercury Mountaineer tomorrow! Originally (for months) we had perseverated the mantra "we're buying a Mazda 6!" After taking our Continental into Demmer (in Dearborn) for an oil change, what an enjoyable experience with the Salesperson. Pen in hand...we were closing the deal on a new Mountaineer. AWD in Michigan, it'll handle great! THANK YOU LOUISVILLE! Thank you Bill! BUY AMERICAN MADE! p.s. The Conti is Mine, the Mountain is my Husband's

pulleydog · December 2003

Our '02 Mercury Mountaineer had to have the driveshaft replaced at close to 20K miles. Out of all the vehicles I have ever owned (and we're talking 16 vehicles and over 900K miles), I had never had a drive shaft problem until the MM last Fall. Of course, 2002 was the first year after a major re-design for the Explorer/Mountaineer sisters - although I don't know if the driveline was part of the redesign. I'd be surprised if that wasn't a common problem with these vehicles. We didn't have any other early signs of a problem, my wife was driving home one day and it started making a horrendous screeching noise - so bad she was afraid to drive it any further and had it towed.
"look6phd" - see if you can find a dealer willing to go to bat for you for an after warranty claim. Good luck!

daryll40 · December 2003

On my '03, do I need to add rear wiper fluid separately, in the back, like the 1991-2001 Explorers? Or does the rear wiper get fluid from the front? I am looking where to top off the fluids and can't find a place in the rear like my older Explorers.

jrc346 · December 2003

I think it was 1998 that Ford made the rear washer feed off of the front tank. All you should have to do is fill the front tank.

daryll40 · December 2003

Now that I think about it, my '99 Explorer never needed filling in the rear! I had that vehicle for almost 5 years and never even realized that it did not require rear filling like the '97 and '95 I had before it. Go figure...I'm not very observant!

richgb1 · January 2004

This site is great! After reading through the posting I found the answer to my problem. I have a 97 explorer with a shift problem between 2nd and 3rd, the only problem is that it is intermitant. I have always done scheduled maintenance on every vehicle I have owned this one included on the transmission. Took it to the dealer and they checked it out for codes and also checked the pressures and a $160.00 later found nothing (no fluid change)said it would not help. The dealer said it would need a new transmission at $2,600. Being that it did not do it every time I checked to see if any one else had this problem on this site. After reading for quit awhile found out many people have Transmission problems with Fords. Had a transmission service done and still did not help. One person posted quit a extensive report on Ford having a TSB on replacement of parts to repair a pressure problem, which I would have resorted to next. Many do not believe in additives to cure these problems and to tell you neither did I. I tried Slick 50 Automatic Transmission Treatment and it do not work, actually made it worse. Drained some fluid out and next tried a Lucas product, also did not work but was better. Drained some more fluid out added LUBE GUARD and my problem is gone and the transmission works GREAT!!! This was from the postings and suggestions on this site, thanks alot, I hope this works for some others. www.lubeguard.com if anyone is interested, thanks again.

timesavers · January 2004

I am a single mom looking to buy a good inexpensive car. I found a 1999 Ford Explorer 4 door, 470000 miles, new tires, very vcean, no scratched dents, or rust. Has a sunroof, 6 CD changer, excellent leather interior and all the toys. Priced at $12900. Do you guys think this is a good deal?

tidester · January 2004

You may want to try the main Ford Explorer/Mercury Mountaineer discussion.

tidester, host

abcde12345 · January 2004

My radio LCD panel seems to fade in and out though it is mostly out. I took it to the dealer and they said a new radio would be approx. $400, or they could send it off for repair for approx. $200. They offered no other solutions. Does anyone have any ideas how I might fix this problem? Thanks.

akangl · January 2004

In all honesty I wouldn't buy it, but then again I just finished up with a money pit 1997 Explorer Limited that only had 57k on it. Traded it in tonight. Unless you can get a decent warranty (doubtful with that old and that many miles) I wouldn't buy it. They are prone to suspension problems (mine had bad ball joints, repair was going to run $1000) and other stupid things. Don't get me wrong, I LOVE Explorers, just don't want one without a warranty. BTW, I bought a 2004 Explorer to replace my 1997.

dtownfb · January 2004

I have to echo what akangl said. The Explorers are nice but it seems the last few years have not been kind as far as reliablility. I just traded a 1996 Explorer V8 with 146k miles. Extremely reliable but it was getting old. Only repairs made outside of maintenance is throttle body (should have been a warranty issue), Oxygen sensor at 55k and steering rack at 120k. Others have not had my luck.

If your objective is an inexpensive car and you need the space, I would consider a used station wagon like the Taurus. If not, you can get a good used mid size sedan for the same price. And 4WD is over rated esp. for a vehicle the size of the Explorer, Tahoes etc. And if you don't o off road, then it's just one more thing that can go wrong.

You can get around better in the snow (less then 6 inches but then again why would anyone in their right mind drive around in deeper snow then this)with a front wheel drive vehicle and decent tires.

nvbanker · January 2004

Wow, I don't know if I could say a Taurus Wagon would be more reliable than a used Explorer. That hasn't been my experience. I think Explorers are very tough, dependable trucks. Your occasional lemon is out there, but generally, they're great. I would get a warranty just because you don't know where it's been or what it's been through, and I'd stay away from the AWD model if you can, but otherwise, I'd go for it.

mseenviro · January 2004

My 2002 Explorer has 35000+ miles on it. I drive over 2500 miles a month, so I am stongly considering an extended warranty. I have warrantybynet on my wife's Town and Country and it is painful to get them to pay any claims. (They do pay them but it takes phone calls from me and the dealer's service department)

Therefore I am strongly considering a Ford warranty. I have shopped around and have gotten my local dealer down from $1600+ on a 100,000 6 year warranty to $1215, which they claim is their cost plus $50. (It is the Ford Extra care, which online also is quoted at over $1600)That is my lowest quote from 4 Ford Dealers.

My question is this...is this a good deal?

I've had numerous little things go wrong and frankly I don't expect the Explorer to go to 100,000 miles without some sort of major meltdown.

Thanks for the imput.

Mike

gregb5 · January 2004

It seems that you've answered your own question. If you expect to keep the vehicle until the "major meltdown" occurs then you'll be better off with the warranty. The breakdown may never occur, but, like all insurance, it's about probabilities. You seem to think that it will break, so buy the warranty.

dtownfb · January 2004

I would consider the Taurus more reliable then the Explorer esp. after reading some of the problems the recent ones have had. Of course this is disputable since so many factors determine how reliable a used car is.

I don't think she buy an Explorer or any other SUV not unless there is some over lying factor that determines she must have 4WD.

mseenviro: I normally don't recommend extended warranties since the odds are agianst you that you will recoup your money (how else would they stay in business). But in this case it seems like you will rest easier if you have one. Just make sure you buy a Ford backed extended warranty. A lot of peopel ahve been having problems with third party warranties recently. Check out the warranty page here on Edmunds to see some nightmare stories of companies denying claims or declaring bankruptcy.

M

ogbonna · January 2004

When the outside temp is refrigerater temp(33-57 deg)it is rare that the temp guage will go half way between the C and H, In fact the needle will point to about 1/4 of the guage. The heater is
Ok in terms warmth @ the Maxium setting.
I am certain the Anti-Freeze mix is 50-50.
Does anyone else with a Ford Explorer 4x4 XLT (1998) have this problem?

Also I heard the U-Hall People will not rent trailer(s) to be towed with the
Explorer(Any Explorer),but will for the Mountainer(SP). What do you
guys/girls think............?
Best of the New Year to All......
washijl@auburn.edu

wijoco · January 2004

There were a lot of bad thermostats made for the late 90s Explorers. If the temp gauge continues to fluctuate, it's a strong possibility yours is failing.

swschrad · January 2004

they're comparatively inexpensive. there have been reports the aftermarket units don't work reliably, but the ford part does.

as for the U-Hell issue, read a few posts back, the short version is U-Haul runs a lean ship and they don't like unnecessary complications or costs. couple lawyers for folks injured/killed by => KILLER TIRES! <= tm also included U-Haul in some suits, and they don't wanna play no more.

jrc346 · January 2004

Hey I have a question for you if you don't mind. What were the signs of your failing Rack and Pinion? When I turn the wheel rapidly in either direction I get a jerking/stuttering sensation. Sometimes it doesn't even have to be rapidly, say just backing out of the driveway. Funny thing is, it started doing this after I jacked the truck (2000 Explorer) up to look at the front suspension and see if I could figure out what was groaning (BTW no luck there). I let the truck down and now this. Also while I was under there I noticed one of the protective boots for the rack was cracked in three places leaving the internals exposed. So I patched it the best I could, however, again I now have this issue.

Another issue that I am having is a rapid bumping sound (cannot really be felt inside) coming from the front end. The lower ball joints have been replaced, so I know it isn't them.

ALL of these things, save for the groaning, showed up after my wife called me asking me how to ge the truck out of 4WD Lo!!! Wouldn't be a big deal but she was on a DRY paved road. She said that it was in 4WD Hi because the road was snow covered, but the snow lifted and the roads dried out so she "in haste" shifted it into 4WD Lo, and not back to Auto 4WD. So here I am trying to figure out what the heck to do. It used to be so tight, now it sounds like a bucket of bolts. BTW, the 4WD still works fine.

Any others with imput, your thoughts are greatly appreciated. Thanks!

jpreis · January 2004

I wanted to share my experience regarding my Ford vehicle. No emotion. Just the facts.

Bought '03 Explorer in August of '03. On the way home from dealership, it started humming between 55 and 65 MPH.

Trip to dealship #1 - "We fixed it!" 10 miles later, hum was back.

Trip to dealership #2 - "We fixed it!" 15 miles later hum was back.

Trip to dealership #3 - "We fixed it!" 20 miles later, you know.

Trip to dealship #4 - "We know what the problem is and we do not have a fix and we will not try to fix your car." Turns out there's a known issue related to the balance of the driveshaft.

Trip to attorney #1. Long story short, in NC the lemmon law goes like this...

-FMC gets 3 chances to fix issue through SOP
-FMC get certified letter and has 15 days to schedule "Last chance to fix".
-If it gets fixed, every one goes home.
-If not, customer's choice money back or new vehicle

Ford never contacted me during the 15 days they had to schedule the last chance fix. Corporate also failed to return my calls and I had two dealships play ignorant. Additionally I was told I had to go through the arbitration/resolution board. Hogwash.

I have tried to give Ford my allegiance over the years purchasing two Rangers and then the Explorer. All brand new. Each vehicle failed to meet my quality expectations and service was always strict adherence to mileage guidelines and almost adversarial. (They refused to straighten the bed on my ranger because mileage was > 12K miles and cosmetic fixes had to be performed before 12K miles.)

The Explorer will go back to Ford via buyback according to NC statutes next week.

steeda90 · January 2004

My 03 mountaneer OD off light start flashing the other night....
I got home ...Next morning on way to work it was making the worst whining noise ..
I perfect harmony with the RPMs...
Then started slipping when moving thru the gears...
Very bad...I took it to FOrd the next day.
Just got call from local Ford shop , and they say I need a new trans....
they will order one on monday...
Truck is 1 yr old and only 9,100 miles.
ANy others with similar problems...
This is my 2nd Mnteer, and I also had 2 explorers...
First major problem for me......

cmartin411 · January 2004

I feel your pain. See post #2296.

jrc346 · January 2004

Well I took my wifes Explorer into our trusted independent techs. I sure hope they can figure out what is going on. I feel like I need to get it looked at ASAP because I don't want an upper ball joint to suddenly give out when she is away, or even worse, under way. Anyway I'll let you know what they find.

Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair

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