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On another issue, I had my brake pads changed a while back by an independent mechanic. When I got my truck back, the steering feel was different (hard to keep on center, with very little feedback.) I took it to the Ford dealer and they said that when the pads were changed, the mechanic moved the wheels without the engine on, which caused air in the power steering system. They then bled the lines (under warranty) which fixed the problem. I've never heard of this before, and neither had the independent. Anybody have this experience?
Secondly, Last week the thing starts missing, and the check engine light comes on. I leave it at the Ford dealer for a few hours and they call me back with "needs new plugs." Okay, I didn't think plugs could get so bad in 43k miles but okay. Turns out, the #4 plug was bad. However, not only did they want to replace the plugs at $10.14 each, plus the outrageous labor, they wanted to do an induction cleaning for $44.95, and change the fuel filter, for a grand total of $317.52. I said "shut the hood, park it out front, and don't touch it until I get there." I called my "normal maintanence" garage, and they could do the exact same service for $130. That was including a cost of just under $7 per plug. I take this into consideration, and return to pick up the explorer. I'm then informed that I owe them $95 for the "diagnosis." What a rip off. Now, I make 6 bucks and 3 quarters an hour, so I'm looking for the cheapest way to approach this situation, and where do you go for the cheapest? Wal Mart. There, you can get autolite platinum plugs, 2 for $3.88. However, they didn't have the ones for my OHV V6. At Advance, they run about 4 bucks a piece. A very mechanically inclined buddy of mine offered to put them in for me, so I was approaching that prospect. However, at the last minute, he informs me he can't due to other family obligations, so I left my explorer at the garage this morning to get the plugs replace (no cleaning, no fuel filter), an alignment and balance the tires. Going to put the brakes on next week.
Thirdly, I'm having a flowmaster exhaust put on Friday morning. Has anyone else had a performance exhaust put on their explorer? I couldn't get duals on the '99 because of a fuel line running down the drivers side, so I'm getting a single pipe with 2 outlets with the flowmaster muffler. The double tip will come out near the top behind the wheel, and will face the side of the car. I think it will look great, and I can't wait to hear the sound.
And finally, does anyone know what the name of the burnt orange color is that was used on the XLS Explorers from '99-'01? It isn't the bright orange that appeared on the '01 Sports, this is a darker, reddish orange. Questions or comments are welcome
They ran the computer diagnostic to reset the idiot light, and it showed a #4 plug misfire. They didn't charge me but a couple bucks for that since they already knew the problem, just had to reset the light. The mechanic suggested that I have a cleaning service performed, about 40 bucks, cleans the injectors, throttle body, lots of other components, and he said "you wouldn't believe the difference it makes. I did it to mine and it made a huge difference." So I'm thinking I might get that done next week. I'm going to see how it runs this week with the new plugs. So far so good, but I only drove about 15 minutes after getting it from the garage. Total bill for yesterday's work was $145, which I feel was well worth it.
darned glad I insisted on my V8.
ford better watch out, they'll get a "rep" for head gaskets. the 3.8L V6 on the 90s taurus was a legend in that regard. maybe they should just make nice, thick, fat, ugly, heavy blocks again and be done with the warranty calls.
As for the dieseling engine sound mentioned in the post above, my 2004 doesn't seem to be doing that and I'm at 6500 miles.
I like Fords, but mainly I drive Fords because I have a mutual client who sells Lincolns to me for invoice. If he went away, I would play the field more than I do.
As for the engine, I asked about that and they said there is nothing that comes up for my truck's vin as far as special bullitins, they ran an oasis report on it.
I will turn 7000 miles tomorrow. I really like my Explorer and have no intention of getting rid of it.
1) Bad drivers side rear power window motor
2) Cracked panel underneath rear glass.
Both of the above issues are very common.
As far as motor noises are concerned; I have said this before, this motor is noisy, however it does not make any "diesel" sound. It runs good.
The only other issue is that when we got the car back from the rear motor not working, we now have a rattle in the drivers door that wasn't there before. I made an appointment for this Saturday. BTW, if you put a partial synthetic oil in the motor when you do an oil change, it helps with the cold start ups and the engine quiets down sooner.
Anyone else have this problem?
Dawn
The dealer found the torque converter clutch was failing to engage. Received code P0741. They had to remove and replace the valve body assy.
Lucky for me this was a company vehicle. When I was on the phone with our fleet administrator, he said we have stopped ordering Explorers because of the quality issues and have switched to the F-150 4 doors. I would have a hard time spending my own money on a Ford after this.
It just turned 7,200 miles yesterday.
Thanks,
AJM
1) heater box... sounds like the classic worn motor for the blower fan issue. at least through the 2001 explorer, you take the fan and blower out under the hood, like REAL cars have traditionally been made, by removing three bolts into the plastic duct and cracking a sealant gob on the motor. when you put the old blower on the new motor, you will have to hink around a couple times to get it aligned right, and may still have to tickle it when it gets cold... the fans drag on the duct as temperatures change, and there is one sweet spot. you lose that as the motor bearings wear out, allowing the motor shaft to thrust forward and push the fan into ducting.
motors are $20-40. you can do this in an hour even if you hold the tools between your toes.
/ CIE section / if the 2002+ screwed this up, it's off my buy list. seriously. no foolin'. the ability to replace the blower motor without torches and fifty hours of labor in this cold climate is one of my top ten serviceability tests when I look at new cars. I have not been under the hood on a 2002 or later, but if they changed this PLUS made the tranny a sealed unit, I am not buying another explorer. one screwup in ten is my limit.
it would be a pity, cause I like the truck, but $100 repairs that turn into $500 jobs that also screw up the dash so it's never right again is NEVER the correct engineering decision. and it implies a lot else was screwed up.
are you listening, Detroilet? we need these things fixable. not buying anything that isn't. / end CIE /
2) it was not normal in the earlier units, but it sounds like a setting option. you should be able to find a tickle for this in the manual to make the display stay on. my guess is it's a rotating option under the "OBD" switch or whatever they call the setup mode that stops the music and changes the time, etc.
the mach units up to 2001 did suffer from display failure, and that was almost always the fault of power supply or front panel silver-solder joints that were too thin and cracked under heat and vibration stress. resoldering them fixes those issues.
with regards to the radio, the manual says nothing. it tells you how to turn on and off the display, but does not mention that it freezes after a little bit. once frozen, if i change stations and go back it works again. its so hard to determine if it is a reception problem or the way the thing is set up.
Didn't we all tell you not to buy that particular Explorer several months ago???
if it's a mechanical issue, either the pump is surging, and/or the hose between the resivoir and the pump is deteriorating and periodically plugging or pinching shut. then you would expect a buildup of PS fluid in the resivoir, until the pump is gasping for material, then it might pull a little through.
I'd get a new cap, pump, and replace the intermediate hose myself, and do an immediate flush of the PS fluid in that case.
it could also be you have a hose end coming apart or a dying hose, probably the return hose into the resivoir, as that is designed to lie against the thing for anti-rattle purposes. that's a lot more common on older PS systems than overpressure issues.
there is a full-indicator mark on the bottom of the plastic dipstick built into the cap, and fluid should just touch it cold. should just touch the full-hot indicator if the engine is highway-and-towing hot, too hot to lean against the engine. looking through the side of the resivoir, there should be something on the order of one clear inch at the top before you get to the fluid. if you're pouring the resivoir full, that's the issue that needs to be fixed.
that's that orange exploder, huh? sounds like you wanted some wrenching time. this is one you can do yourself... but I would advise getting an idler/belt tool before trying to remove the drive belt. I didn't, couldn't get enough windage with my ratchets to get the goldarned belt back ON my V8, and ended up having it towed so I could have it fixed monday morning and get to work monday afternoon. the tool is 40-50 bucks and any parts store that doesn't have one can order it.
they specifically call for dexron III/mercon in my 00 exploder. being your typical bullheaded german, I browsed the rack at the parts place until I found a label reading exactly that, and bought four quarts. if they said to use sheep snot and change it in the bright harvest moon, I would set my alarm
reason is, then I got somebody I can sue if it falls off the next day.
there used to be a "universal PS fluid" sold by places like amoco in the 80s and early 90s. I suspect it's only universal if you want everybody to growl about their rack rotting and spraying fluid on the backs of the brake rotors, instead of some owners only. for that matter, there is "hydraulic fluid" sold at all the tractor supply stores in 5-gallon cans for $30 that has pretty much the same base lube stock. it might work. it might rot you out. I'm not going to test it myself.
read the manual, buy exactly what it calls for, then you have a warm feeling around your backside in case of a so-called fluid-related failure where you would be stuck with the bill.
Bioman
Used it yesterday to pull a friend out of the ditch. I don't remember other vehicles being that slow going in and out of 4LO.
2004 Explorer XLS Sport V6/Control Trac.....only have about 8600 miles on it.
It started this right off the get go yesterday, before we even tried pulling the truck, it just flat would not go into 4LO, of course once it was there it didn't want to come out.
you shouldn't need to do that, though. can you duplicate?
Sure doesn't seem normal to me.......I might take it out tonight and play with it simply because my curiousity is getting the best of me. If its easily duplicated I'll swing by the dealer tomorrow when I'm in town and see what they say. I hate not being able to trust it about going into 4LO which we need to use on occation, makes me think twice about taking it certain places.