Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair

rmarquez · March 2005

craig I have the same problem with my 2002 explorer tell me more

halfliter80 · March 2005

I have a 98 explorer 4x4, and last week I was backing out of a gas station and the gear engaged but then disengaged and hasn't worked since. I have not had any problems with the tranny up to this point. Then tonight I was out driving and I heard a little tinkering noise from underneath and the tranny did shift a little hard or more like a jerk {in the drive gear} and that was the only time I have heard it. Anyone had anything similiar to this and what could be the problem?

halfliter80 · March 2005

I have a 98 explorer 4x4 and last week I was backing out of a gas station and the reverse gear suddenly disengaged and hasn't worked since. I have had no prior problems with the tranny or anything really. Then tonight in the drive gear I heard a tinkering sound for a second or two and the gear did change with a little jerk,and has not done so since either. Just wondering if anyone has had something similiar or can tell me the what could be wrong.

webmyzer · March 2005

I've taken the front passenger side tire off, fender wall mud guards off, then used a 1.5ft extension with a swivel at the end attached to a plug socket and it did the trick

webmyzer

djn2 · March 2005

I have seen Ford Explorers really bashed on this and other sites so I must come to their defense. I think the 98 Expl is a very well engineered vehicle, especially for the cost. It has not been without trouble, but I think Ford has done a pretty decent job. Compared to the cars I have owned in the past, sluggish overhead valve engines requiring tune-ups every 30k and lots of other maintenance interspersed, the Expl has been quite a joy.

I bought the 98 used with 23k miles form Hertz and for insurance bought an extended warranty. It cost $1200 and covered bumper to bumper for 5yr/70k taking it out to 93k miles. During the warranty period I had one claim that wasnt covered by a factory recall amounting to $200 for a squeaking dust seal (dusty climate related I expect) on left front wheel.

The 98 has the 4.0 SOHC engine that makes 205 hp, and most of the other things you find in a mid-level auto/truck.. And the SOHC engine really hauls butt compared to the OHV model. It still drives very well still with 140k+ miles, warms up quickly and doesnt run rough even when cold, nor consume any oil.

My philosophy is to do the maintenance myself if it isnt covered by warranty and doesnt involve fluid disposal. Just bought a house with a garage so why not put it to work.! I had it in to J-lube several times for replacement of all of the fluids as the manual recommends (with synthetics always).

At around 70k I replaced the factory shocks with Bilstein heavy duty models and also changed out the sway bar bushings for neoprene performance set. This really tightened up the ride and made it feel much newer. I did the 100k tune-up myself (plugs and wires) for $120 in parts saving $400 in labor, again making it run like new. I had to spray out and oil the door locks with WD40 a few times as they froze up in winter (dust I think caused it). And I needed to replace the front two Ox sensors. The 4.0 SOHC has 4 Ox sessors, part of the reason it makes 205 hp. At that point it was running/handling so well that I spent $700 on the high-end Michein SUV tires. It was sweeeet for a vehicle that was paid for!

At around 125k I hit a major obstacle, however, with front end problems. The seals on the Rack were leaking and the lower balls joints were worn badly, causing a knocking noise when going over any types of bumps. I was worried about the whole front end seizing up or coming apart at highway speed, so something had to be done. These two items sounded like more work than I wanted to do myself but the estimates came back at around $1300. Due to my new mortgage, I broke down and bought the parts and attacked the problem myself.

Let me tell you that replacing the rack without having the car on a lift was like aligator wrestlng in a pool of power steering fluid. The whole job is somewhere around 10 bolts total, but I had to summon every bit of my previous shade tree mechanic experience and military training to get the old rack out and get the new one in. Ditto for the ball joints. However I got it all back together in a single day so I was felling quite proud. I did have to spend $120 on a ball joint press tool and a few sockets but I probably saved $6-700 on labor.

Be warned: do not even attempt to do this job without good jack stands, and a torque wrench. You have to get those front end bolts factory tight and the cotter pins replaced, or you risk disaster some dayfrom your front end coming apart. And the vehicle needs to be supported very well so it doesnt fall on you when tightening up those bolts. Consult the manual for the proper torque settings and jacking/supporting procedures.

I think Ford could have avoided these front end problems by installing a 98cent power steering filter and a few 25 cent grease fittings in the ball joints. I did on the replacements!

Since then I also had to replace break pads on the 4wheel disks. I didnt turn the rotors. It takes the pads a little longer to seat, but if you use synthetic grease on the pad backing plate you can avoid turning the rotors in my opinion. The only other current problem I have is with the radio display, which I expect can be solved inexpensively.

Anyway, I have a new job and I commute 50 miles rt daily, so with gas at $2 plus I am thinking about a Saturn SC at 39mpg. But I will hang on to the old explorer (145k miles now) for pulling the bass boat (which the SOHC does pretty nicely) four wheeling, and other hauling([non-permissible content removed]) chores. Cheers! (My glass is half full)

djn2 · March 2005

Make sure you use a torque wrench when you re-install the plugs. You will be amazed at how much smoother the engine will warm up. With all plugs at the same torque, the heat transfer rate between the plugs and the cylinder head is the same for all cylinders. The plugs will run at the same temperature, causing each cylinder to produce the same power, causing less engine vibration and wear. The torque specification is on the spark plug packaging.

benderofbows · March 2005

Hey Chuck,

What did they charge you to do the flush?

xanpenrose · March 2005

I have a 2000 Explorer Ltd V8 and have similar problems with what seems to be transmission vibrations. I've had it it into my Ford service dealer many times over the past 18 months. A year ago they said it was the "rack & pinion" gears and charged me $800 in repairs. The problem never really went away. It seemed somewhat better but gradually increased. Last month I took it back and they "fixed it" for $500. However I noticed on the repair bill that the same parts where used for the repair. I complained and they gave me a 100% refund. BUT, the problem is still there.

Any info or discussion on this problem would be helpful.

I'm starting to look at Toyota 4Runners...

kellie5 · March 2005

i am having the same problem with my 2000 ford explorer. i am looking for answers too

chuck1 · March 2005

It was part of the 30K service. I went in with a few things I wanted done, and to get the 30K service wasn't that much more. So it wasn't itemized out. This is a unique transmission in the sense, that it takes a Ford spec fluid, and it does not have a dipstick and filler-neck. So, I would HIGHLY SUGGEST the dealer perform this service. Look for coupons at your dealer. But it seems to me it should be an hours labor, and the cost of the fluid.

chuck1 · March 2005

Congrats on what has been an overall good ownership experience on your vehicle. The previous generation Explorer does have a reputation for being pretty much "bullet proof". However, most of the complaints on this board evolve around the 2002's on. This was after the redesign in which the V6 motor was changed as well as the floor of the vehicle being lowered and the suspension changed as well. My wife's 2002 V6-2WD now has 37,000 miles on it. Just got back from a six-hour trip from So. Cal to Phoenix, AZ. The vehicle preformed very well and got 18 mpg on the highway at over the legal-limit

speeds! I did have the transmssiion solenoid replaced and have an appointment for the front sway bar bushings. Other than that, a positive ownership experience so far!

ryanjm183 · March 2005

DO NOT BUY A FORD! Your best choise is GM.

gene1974 · March 2005

I just bought a 2001 explorer sport about a month ago. the abs light comes on every once in a while and when it does the abs does not function... but if i shut the truck completely off and then restart it right away the light goes off and the abs works fine.. i called the dealer and they told me it could be one of three sensors or a bad wire.. they said they would only charge me 95 dollars to check the computer to see what it says and if that does not work it would be 65 an hour till they find the problem.. well i don't know about anyone else but I'm not rich and if i were i still would not pay that outrageous price... they can stick it... went to autozone and yes to an earlyer post they can read allmost any code for the obdII..no code came up but they told me it would have to be on for them to read it because the computer does not keep temp codes...anyone else have this problem?

ryanjm183 · March 2005

I have a '94 Eddie Bauer and it idles fine but sputters and jerks when you apply the gas. Also it feels very sluggish taking off. I mean more than it should with the miss that I just described...... Any suggestions?

ryanjm183 · March 2005

NO! Cut any losses you may have. Maybe you can use your explorer for a demolition derby car...?

tbar1864 · March 2005

I am experiencing a similar problem and looking on this board to see if there has been any problem resolution other than replacing the switches. 1997 EB Explorer and both my fog lamps don't work and my right low beam doesn't work. I replace both headlights and checked all fuses. Still no low beam on the right side, but high beam works fine. I hate to take it to the dealer for repair. Any ideas?

tidester · March 2005

You're responding to a posting that is almost 5 years old. I am quite certain that mkt1204 has already made up his mind by now! :-)

tidester, host

akangl · March 2005

Hmmmm, well, for starters its 11 years old, can't really fault it for having a few issues. Second, how many miles on it? Third, have you taken it to a mechanic? Seems to me like you are blaming the truck for something that isn't its or Ford's fault.

chuck1 · March 2005

Well said. It amazes me how people complain about issues when they are driving a car that is 10 plus years old with 150,000 miles on it. Gee, even 10 year old Hondas and Toyotas have issues...

wijoco · March 2005

I would look at fuel pressure first, then spark.

cdfexp · March 2005

I have the 1998 5.0 v8 eddie explorer, AWD is eating me up plus many say it is a waist of the V8 power unless hauling. Though i read somewhere before that I could replace the awd transfer case with a 4X4. Reading around in her i know it will cost a pretty penny. Guess the question is with gas prices the way they are HOW MANY PRETTY PENNIES WILL IT SAVE ME!! 13mpg now

nitromax · March 2005

I have a '94 Eddie Bauer and it idles fine but sputters and jerks when you apply the gas. Also it feels very sluggish taking off. I mean more than it should with the miss that I just described...... Any suggestions?

Have you had it tuned up recently? It sounds like a bad spark, bad sensor (Mass air flow, oxygen), or bad fuel flow (fuel filter?, fuel pump)

Chipmunks living under the hood?
:-)

A good tune should be able to find the problem.

benderofbows · March 2005

13 mpg is not that bad for something as heavy and un-aerodynamic as an Explorer.

I only get 14-16 in my V6. Had there been a V8 on the lot I would have bought it instead.

I'd love to "waste V8 power" for an mere 2 mpg!

jhartmann2 · March 2005

I have had my XLT for 4 months and have 4100 miles on it. Should I wait until 5000 miles for the first oil change or is it better to have it done now. Previous car I did every 3700 miles.

chuck1 · March 2005

I use conventional oil in my wife's '02 XLT 2 wd w/v6. I change it every 5,000 miles. I tnow has 37K on it with no problems.
Hope this helps!

bgyako · March 2005

What was the chattering noise?

merc2002 · March 2005

When i adjust the temp with my 2002MM auto climate control the door creaks...it doesn't creak when i change the vent positions or anything else...just when i adjust my temps....not all the time..anyone have any solutions or causes why it happens...thanks

wijoco · March 2005

You mean you hear the blend door creaking in the dash?

explorerx4 · March 2005

i can't imagine you could ever recoup the 'investment' in converting to 4wd from awd.
check the air pressure in your tires and make sure you have a clean air filter. best bang for your buck. 13mpg is very low, was it always this way?
i had a '97, same drivetrain. lowest ever was 14 mpg, highest 20.

merc2002 · March 2005

is that what that sound is?it didn't happen today so im wondering if it fixed itself...should i worry if i keep hearing it or is it just dragging on the plastic as it opens?

nitromax · March 2005

is that what that sound is?it didn't happen today so im wondering if it fixed itself...should i worry if i keep hearing it or is it just dragging on the plastic as it opens?

That's probably all it is. Does it do it year round or has it just started?
Could be making more noise because of the colder weather....plastic contracting some and squeaking.

wijoco · March 2005

Don't worry, but when it breaks-worry. It's an 8 to ten hour job to diassemble the dash board and replace the assembly.

tweedie · March 2005

Folks,

Need some advice,

I took my vehicle to dealer for transmission recall additive insertion.
Rough shifting is as bad as ever, maybe worse.
It clunks when it downshifts, especially when I slow down quickly.

I can't stand the annoying noise and I fear it eventually will fail.

I have 32K miles and the extended deluxe warranty.
Should I live with the klunk?
Take it back to dealer and demand it be fixed?
Is it normal and really no indication of a potential reliability issue down the road?

What can or should be done basically?

Thanks.

TP

jrc346 · March 2005

You are most welcome! I just hope that the new shocks will function to your satisfaction. I remember the Edelbrock website having a lot of information relating to the fuction of their shocks, but I don't remember being able to buy them there. For that, I ordered them from jcwhitney.com where they were about $70 bucks a piece. Kind of steep, but in my opinion, they were worth it.

greaper · April 2005

My 1998 5.0 2wd with 125,000 miles has been running great until a few days ago. As I put a light load on the engine, it hesitates. It usually happens while going up a slight hill or light acceleration aroung 15-20 rpm. It doesn't seem like the engine is missing so thought it might be the torque converter or trans.

gate81 · April 2005

I get a whistling noise from my V6 engine (2004 model) between 2100-2300 rpms. Only occurs when cruising at that rpm, and not during rapid acceleration. Any ideas?
thanks

trucklarry · April 2005

I'm old school. Every 3K. I don't care what the manual says

-Larry

whortond · April 2005

I am in the process of buying a new vehicle. I have test drove a 2003 Toyota 4Runner, V8, Sport Edition and a 2005 Ford Explorer...I think it was also the Sport model......Can anyone give me any info about why I should or shouldn't buy one of the two?

The Explorer was a V6

trucklarry · April 2005

I bought a 2005 last Friday. I found the 04B22 bulliten you speak of and emailed my dealer my VIN so they could check OASIS. Luckily my truck isn't on the recall list.

I will say I don't have the clunking issue, but this truck shifts like no other Explorer (my third one) or Ranger (I've had 3) that I've had.

It feels like it would if I were shifting it with a manual transmission. You know, a slight back-off of the throttle, shift, then back on the throttle. Not the usual simple shift up to the next gear like I'm used to.

These things have electronic throttle controls (no linkage) I think and I don't think any of the others did. Maybe it's just different since it has total control of the throttle.

-Larry

nitromax · April 2005

My 1998 5.0 2wd with 125,000 miles has been running great until a few days ago. As I put a light load on the engine, it hesitates. It usually happens while going up a slight hill or light acceleration aroung 15-20 rpm. It doesn't seem like the engine is missing so thought it might be the torque converter or trans.

When the tranny is going it will be more like a slipping under load. The engine revs will be higher than normal for the same amount of work.

When you hesitates , do you mean like a hiccup?

merc2002 · April 2005

this must be a common theme among 2002's and up...i complained of the very same thing when i bought mine a few weeks ago.it felt like there was a lag between the shift points.When i told the dealer about this he mentioned i might need a reprogramming of my transmission.WELL IT WORKED!!....feels like a newer transmission...i can't say if your model requires it but when i was test driving a 2004 MM Premier AWD V8 they had a sticker under the hood indicating a transmission computer upgrade was done....so i think this is a common problem of 2002's-up.good luck

merc2002 · April 2005

if it breaks and needs replacing will my extracare warranty coverage from ford cover this item..it says in the coverage it covers automatic climate control....is that what we are talking about....btw it didnt creaks 2day and the weather here in upstate NY is around 60 so hopefully its weather related...thanks for any advice

merc2002 · April 2005

this is funny but my brother in law is deciding the same issue..ford vs. toyota....since i've owned my fair share of import and domestics i have no preference...i buy what i like at the time...both vehicles...the major complaint i have about Ford or Mercury was the 3/36 issue but i think thats improved..i may be wrong but i thought i heard on the messae board somewhere that FORD was upping the years and mileage as of 2006...if it was me i would buy what i liked..i bought a 2002 MM Premier V8 AWD vs buying a 2003 Trailblazer EXT LT because of the features and price..also buy the vehicle that has better reliability and warranty and owner satification...take a look at the message boards for both vehicles to help u decide...look for TSB's(Technical Service Bulletins or RECALLS)i find auto magazine reviews not too helpful...i'd rather listen to regular people who drive the vehicle for years vs a few months or just a week..sites like this helped me out alot but so did the TSB when i saw how bad the Trailblazer was..

if all else fails just buy the vehicle you WANT the way you want it and be prepared to deal with any issues that come up ..GOOD LUCK :shades:

wijoco · April 2005

Yes, definitely have the dealer honor your warranty by at least looking into it. I agree with another poster on checking for available reprograms. There have also been problems with the plastic solenoid pack body cracking and causing shift problems, but I can't remember if your model year was affected. Your dealer can tell you for sure by looking up the TSBs.

rocklobster1 · April 2005

Hey whortond,
The toyo is above average quality, the ford is average. Toyota has much higher resale value, but this model will cost hundreds more to insure per year than the explorer. If you are tall, you will feel like Lurch with your head sticking out of the roof and you will have to tilt your seat back to see past the sun visor.The japanese cars are made for short people. Quality isn't exactly enjoyable...I think you would appreciate the ford more.

makeupman · April 2005

i have a 1992 explorer i can drive it for a day or to or and hour or too then it stops runing then after two hours i can start it again

ajmtbm · April 2005

we had the same problem. turns out it was much worse when cold out and truck first started. when warm, no problem. dealer fixed under warranty...they have to remove the entire dash. they said they replaced the heater box, which is the same as the blend door i guess. we had the same symptoms - when adjusting temperature on dual climate it creaked. once the truck warmed up, couldn't duplicate. not sure what would have happended long term, but considering they removed the entire dash, i assume it would have been costly.

ckeator · April 2005

Hello.

The wife & I just purchased a 97 XLT, with ~118,000 miles, fully equipped with the 5.0L and tow package. I found this site, looking for answers to a particular question.

Have been driving it a week, and the engine/tranny are great, and the suspension is tight. Other than a few cosmetic burps (to expect with an 8 year-old used vehicle), the truck has been wonderful. Although getting used to a solid rear-axle, and the power of a V8 again---my first car was a 1966 Oldsmobile f-85 (330 Jetfire under the hood)---has been an experience.

Anyway, we received ~2inches of rain yesterday. Made various trips around town, with no "adventures". About 1 mile from the house at 10pm at night, I drove through a large pool of water----deep enough to splash up onto the rooft, on the front passenger side.

After parking the car, and locking with the keyring remote, the car unlocked and the interior lights illuminated. This unlocking cycle continued for over an hour, at which point I pulled the dashlight fuse and went to bed. This morning, I drove the truck around the block, locked the car (by the keyless remote pad), and everything seems fine. No more apparent "lock phantom".

Any ideas about the lock cycling, which seems directly related to the wet weather? Could there be a short in the outside keyless remote, or is there a sensor/motor within the motor compartment that could have gotten wet?

My father owned a repair shop, so I can fix pretty much any problems. I've read that the locks/wipers are major "phantoms" on the Explorer, but this was just insane. The locks would literally "unlock" every 5-10 minutes (even when they were already unlocked), almost like clockwork.

Any comments/suggestions, would be greatly appreciated.

bioman · April 2005

My 99 Explorer V6 SOHC 4WD with 67,800 miles on the odometer has begun to make a not very loud, speed sensitive rotational rubbing noise that sounds like it is coming from a front end component. The noise does not change during turning or driving straight, 4WD Auto, High or Low. The fluid level in the front differential is OK. All the CV joint boots are in one piece- no tears or cracks. The brake pads are fine and there is no vibration or shimmy at low or high speeds (80mph+). The trucks tracks perfectly and does not pull, right or left, when I brake. There is no evidence or fluid or grease leaks. In order to hear the noise the radio has to be off and I have to driving on blacktop pavement. My hypothesis is that a CV joint is beginning to fail. Other possible explanations would be greatly appreciated.

wijoco · April 2005

Based on your description and assuming it's not an engine noise, my first guess would be a wheel bearing. Could be a tire noise. I would kind of doubt CV joint.

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